trees

Some trees can be pruned in winter, while other trees grow better when they’re pruned in spring. But no matter what types of trees you’re growing, early fall is the worst time to prune trees. Pruning just before winter makes trees more vulnerable to frost damage, but it can also reduce fruiting and flowering, and even increase the incidence of plant diseases. If you’re not sure when to prune the trees in your garden, here are the best and worst times to prune different types of trees, plus a few pruning tips that will help your trees grow better. Why Shouldn't You Prune Trees in Fall? In the early months of fall, trees are hard at work storing energy to carry through winter. Pruning trees at this time of the year can limit their ability to store nutrients, but it can also increase the chances that their tender leaves will be damaged by frost. Fall pruning can also make certain trees more vulnerable to pests and disease, and it may inhibit blooming if you accidentally clip away the flower buds on flowering trees. Broken, diseased, and damaged branches can be pruned away at any time of the year to keep issues from spreading. But more significant pruning and reshaping should only be performed at certain times of the year—and it should be avoided entirely from late summer to early fall. The Right Time to Prune Trees In general, the best time to prune most trees is during their winter dormancy period or from November to March; however, as you’ll soon see, some tree varieties are pruned a bit differently. Certain trees have specific pruning recommendations, so it’s always a good idea to research the pruning needs of the trees in your garden before picking up your pruning shears. Tip If you’re in doubt about tree ID, a tree care professional or your local cooperative extension office may be able to identify your plants for you (and offer some pruning advice too). Deciduous Trees Deciduous trees, like oaks, maples, and many common landscaping trees, lose their leaves in winter, so it’s important to avoid pruning them in early fall when they’re storing energy. Instead, these plants grow best when they’re pruned during their winter dormancy period, which lasts from late fall to early spring before the plants leaf out. Pruning in winter when trees are leaf-free makes it easier to see the tree’s branches and your pruning cuts, but it also reduces the incidence of tree diseases, like oak wilt. Flowering Trees Some deciduous trees produce flowers, but how the flowers form influences how the trees need to be pruned. Using different pruning techniques for new wood and old wood trees will ensure your trees flower well. New Wood Trees: Trees that bloom on new wood or that flower from summer to fall are usually treated like deciduous trees and pruned during their winter dormancy period. Crepe myrtles fall into this category, as do panicle hydrangeas, smoke trees, and rose of Sharon. Old Wood Trees: Flowering cherry, apricot, lilac, dogwood, and other trees that flower early in spring generally bloom on old wood and form their flower buds during the previous season of growth. To ensure you don’t damage flower buds, prune these trees immediately after they finish flowering and never prune them in fall or winter. Fruit Trees Trees that are grown for their edible fruit can usually withstand light pruning at the end of summer, but it’s best to save major pruning for late winter. Pruning fruit trees in spring or summer makes them more vulnerable to fire blight and other diseases, while pruning in autumn can cause newly cut branches to dry out or die back. Hawthorns, crab apples, and other close relatives of apple trees should be pruned during their winter dormancy too. Evergreen Trees Evergreen or conifer trees usually don’t need significant pruning. But if your spruces, hemlocks, firs, and pines need a trim, late winter to early spring is the time. Evergreens, like arborvitae and yew trees, are a bit more flexible and can be pruned through mid-summer—just as long as you don’t prune them in hot weather. Palm Trees Pruning times are a little more forgiving in areas with mild winters, and tropical palm trees can technically be pruned at any time of the year if their fronds start to droop or turn brown. If you can wait, spring is the best time to prune most palm trees. This will allow you to clean up any fronds damaged during hurricane season and the pruning cuts will heal faster as well. Young Trees Newly transplanted trees are handled a bit differently than established trees since they are more delicate and have fewer branches to trim away. For best results, only prune dead or broken branches when transplanting new trees into your garden, and make more significant pruning cuts when the trees are dormant in winter. Go slow with young trees and prune just a few branches at a time, then make more pruning cuts as your trees grow to improve their shape. Why Should You Prune Trees at All? Not all trees need to be pruned, but many trees grow, fruit, and flower better if they’re pruned in the right way and at the right time. Although trees can be pruned for a variety of reasons, some of the main perks of pruning include: Improved shape. Pruning removes wayward branches and helps refine the shape of trees as they grow. You can also use pruning to train trees into fun shapes or trim trees to keep them small! Better fruiting and flowering. Pruning is especially beneficial for fruit trees, but it can also make flowering trees bloom more abundantly. By improving airflow and sunlight access, pruning can boost fruiting and make fruit taste even better. Reduced pests and diseases. If pests and diseases invade, infested branches can be pruned away to keep problems from spreading. But you can also use pruning preventatively to increase air circulation and reduce the incidence of plant diseases, like mildew. Fewer broken branches. Some types of branches, like “waterspouts,” are prone to breaking, which can introduce pathogens into a tree’s break. Removing these branches preventatively can help you avoid issues later on. Enhanced wound healing. Trees have a hard time healing ragged breaks in their branches. But if you prune broken areas away, the tree will heal faster. Safety. Overgrown branches can be a safety hazard, especially if they reduce visibility around your driveway or are growing into power lines. Pruning damaged limbs before they fall is always a wise choice.

Rambutan, also known as hairy lychee, is a tropical broadleaf evergreen tree known for its juicy, flavorful fruit. Native to Southeast Asia, rambutan requires moist, well-drained soil, year-round fertilizer, and very warm, sunny conditions. Like longan and lychee trees, rambutans are members of the soapberry family. The fruits have a hairy-looking outer shell containing sweet, floral-tasting flesh that surrounds a large, inedible seed. Here's everything you need to know to grow rambutan plant. How to Plant Rambutan When to Plant Plant rambutan seedlings outdoors in spring once night temperatures are consistently above 60 degrees. Want more gardening tips? Sign up for our free gardening newsletter for our best-growing tips, troubleshooting hacks, and more! Selecting a Planting Site Choose a site with full sun conditions and loamy, well-drained soil. If possible, select a site that is protected from harsh, drying winds. Spacing, Depth, and Support Ensure that there's a clear space of at least 15 feet around the planting site for the tree to spread as it matures. Dig a hole that's at least twice as wide and the same depth as your rambutan plant's root ball. Remove the plant from its pot and place it in the hole. Fill in the hole so that the soil level hits the same spot as it did in the container. Additional support usually isn't necessary. Rambutan Plant Care Light Plant rambutan in a spot that gets full sun—at least six to eight hours of direct sunlight per day. A site with partial sun for at least 12 hours per day could also work. Be sure to gradually acclimate seedlings or saplings that have been cultivated indoors over a few weeks before planting them outdoors in full or partial sun. Soil Rambutan plants prefer rich, loamy, well-drained soil with a slightly acidic pH (5.5 to 6.5). Avoid planting in areas with heavy clay soils that will retain excess moisture. If you're growing a rambutan plant in a container, use a high-quality potting mix amended with perlite or coarse sand for drainage. Water Water rambutan plants regularly so that the soil remains consistently moist but not soggy. Unlike some other fruit trees, rambutans are shallow-rooted and can experience leaf drop after only a few days without water. However, two to four weeks of water stress can help induce flowering. Add a few inches of organic mulch such as wood chips around the base of the tree to the drip line to help retain soil moisture. Leave 3 to 5 inches of space between the mulch and the stem or trunk of the tree. Avoid letting rambutan plants in containers dry out. Check soil moisture and water when the soil begins to feel dry to the touch. Temperature and Humidity Rambutan plants thrive in temperatures between 70°F and 95°F during the day, though they can withstand temperatures around ten degrees cooler and hotter than that range. Temperatures below 50°F can damage young growth, and conditions below 40°F can cause leaf drop. High humidity of around 75 percent is ideal. Fertilizer Rambutans are heavy feeders, meaning they require regular fertilizing throughout the year to bloom and bear fruit. Feed plants with a balanced liquid plant fertilizer year-round. Rambutan's fertilizer needs will vary as the plant blooms and produces fruit. In winter, change to a 15-30-15 fertilizer to promote blooming, then a 20-10-30 fertilizer to help with fruit set after the plant flowers. After harvesting, return to balanced fertilizer. Pollination Rambutans are naturally dioecious, meaning that a female tree they must be pollinated by a male tree to bear fruit. However, many cultivars are self-pollinating and don't require a second tree to fruit. Types of Rambutan The two main types of rambutan are red and yellow, which is typically how rambutan plants are categorized in the U.S. However, dozens of different cultivars are available in the plant's native range of Southeast Asia, including: Nephelium lappaceum 'Binjai': This high-yielding red rambutan cultivar with firm fruit is the most widely grown in Indonesia. Nephelium lappaceum 'Rongrien': This oval-shaped variety is native to Thailand and turns red with green tips on its hairs at maturity. Nephelium lappaceum 'E35': This compact yellow rambutan cultivar has very sweet fruits that are particularly juicy. Nephelium lappaceum 'School Boy': Deep red shells with green hairs conceal small, sweet fruits that grow profusely on this rambutan cultivar. Harvesting Rambutan Rambutan plants grown from seed can bear fruit in five or six years, though grafted or budded trees can fruit in as little as two years. In tropical climates, trees may bear fruit twice—once in late fall or early winter and again in late spring or early summer. Expect fruits to ripen between 12 and 16 weeks after flowers bloom. When they're ready to harvest, fruits will be completely red or yellow and at peak sweetness. Fruits won't ripen off the tree, so it's best to wait until they are fully ripe to pick. Mature trees can bear several thousand fruits in each harvest. Pruning There's no need to prune rambutan plants regularly, but it's a good idea to remove dead or damaged branches as you see them. Pruning after fruiting can help encourage new growth and keep the tree a manageable size. Propagating Rambutan Rambutan plants can be propagated by sophisticated techniques like grafting and budding, but air layering is easier and simpler for the home gardener. Rambutan plants respond well to air layering, which involves rooting a branch or section of stem while it's still on the mother plant. The best time to propagate rambutan is in spring or summer. Before you begin, you'll need a healthy mother plant, a sterilized blade, sphagnum moss, clear plastic, aluminum foil, and string or twist ties. Here's how to propagate rambutan. Soak a few handfuls of sphagnum moss in water until it's well saturated. Remove the moss and squeeze it to remove excess moisture. Identify a vertical branch on the mother plant that gets plenty of sun. Use a sharp blade to remove a 1 to 2-inch area of bark all the way around the branch. Wrap the damp moss around the exposed area of branch, then wrap a piece of clear plastic around the moss so that no moss is exposed to the air. Use string or twist ties to fasten the plastic around the moss and branch. Wrap the foil around the plastic to shield the moss from direct sunlight. After about 12 weeks, the branch will have grown roots into the damp sphagnum moss. Cut the branch below the root ball and plant it in a container. How to Grow Rambutan From Seed It's possible to grow rambutan plants from seed—including seeds you've saved yourself from a ripe rambutan fruit. The fresher the seeds are, the better your chance of germination. Carefully remove the flesh from around the seed, avoiding cutting or bruising the seed in the process. Rinse the seed to remove any residue from the flesh, then soak it in room-temperature water overnight. Plant the seed in a small container of fresh potting mix one inch deep with the flat part of the seed pointing down. Water the soil and keep it consistently moist. Keep the pot in a bright, very warm place, or use a heat mat to warm the soil. The rambutan seed should germinate within two weeks of planting. After the seed sprouts, put it outdoors in a place that gets full, direct sunlight. If keeping the seedling indoors, use grow lights to provide adequate light. Overwintering If you're keeping a rambutan plant in a container outdoors, you'll want to begin the process of bringing it inside a few weeks before night temperatures drop below 60 °F. Gradually acclimate the plant to shadier conditions over two weeks or so. When you're ready to bring it in for good, follow steps for bringing plants indoors for the winter, such as soaking the root ball to drive out insects and inspecting foliage for pests or damaged leaves. Common Pests and Plant Diseases Common pests such as fruit flies, moths, fruit borers, and fruit webbers can affect rambutan plants. In tropical regions, birds may also eat green or ripe fruits. While rambutan plants aren't susceptible to many plant diseases, they may be affected by fungal issues like powdery mildew.

When you’re growing a peach tree in your backyard, you need to offer the proper care and conditions to harvest a bountiful crop of delicious, sweet fruit. If you notice your peach tree leaves turning yellow, this can be an early sign of a problem. Understanding some of the common causes of this discoloration can help you take steps to nurse your tree back to health. Natural Yellowing Before you panic, don’t forget that deciduous trees shed their leaves every fall. When you see the leaves on your peach tree turning from green to yellow at this time of year, it’s likely just their natural fall foliage color. How to Fix Dropping deciduous leaves isn’t something you can fix. Peach trees do this to conserve energy and moisture during cold, dry winters before fresh green leaves develop again in the spring. Lack of Light Peach trees are sun lovers. Planting this species too close to a shade-making building or taller tree could result in yellowing leaves. How to Fix Transplant or plant your peach tree in a location that receives around 8 hours of full sun daily. Underwatering You will spot yellowing foliage if your peach tree isn’t getting enough moisture. Following this, the leaves will turn brown and dry before dropping. If your peach tree goes without adequate water for long enough, it can result in drought stress. This causes the tree's roots to shrivel and become damaged or die. When the roots can’t provide adequate water, one of the first places you see the effects is in the tree’s leaves. How to Fix Water needs vary depending on the size of your peach tree and temperatures. However, providing around one inch of water per week is a good guideline for established trees. Water slowly and deeply—if you blast it with a powerful hose, it might run off rather than soak into the soil. Young saplings might need watering as much as every two to three days. Avoid watering only at the base of the tree's trunk. Instead, water around the drip line (the edge of the tree’s canopy where rain naturally falls) as the roots expand outwards. Covering the soil around the tree with a 3—to 4-inch layer of mulch helps retain moisture, especially during scorching summers. This means you might not have to water as often. Overwatering While you don’t want your peach tree roots to be dry for too long when temperatures rise, stone fruit trees are prone to root rot if you overwater and the ground remains soggy, especially in sites with heavy soils.1 One of the early signs of this disease is fewer leaves on your peach tree, and the ones that develop will be small and yellow. How to Fix Avoid letting your peach tree roots stand in saturated soils for prolonged periods. Test the soil moisture levels using a long screwdriver or metal rod, and water only once the soil around the tree roots is dry. If the soil doesn’t have good drainage, consider adding organic matter, such as compost or grass clippings to help lower compaction and increase water infiltration. Nutrient Deficiency If the soil your peach tree is growing in lacks sufficient iron or manganese or is unable to absorb them effectively, this can reduce the production of chlorophyll (the green pigment in leaves that helps plant’s create food through photosynthesis). This common cause of yellowing leaves is frequently seen when soils have high alkaline pH levels, which make it difficult for the trees to absorb these essential nutrients. How to Fix Soil testing can help you determine whether your peach tree's soil requires more manganese or iron. Ferrous and manganese sulfate foliage sprays offer a temporary greening effect, and trunk implant capsules and chelating agent soil additives can last up to two years. Shothole Fungal Disease Peach trees can be prone to shothole fungal disease (Coryneum blight). The first signs are small red spots with yellow margins that develop into holes in the leaves. How to Fix Avoid overhead watering, prune your peach tree to remove infected branches, and, for more serious cases, apply a copper fungicide spray in the fall as the leaves begin to drop and again once the tree is dormant in winter. Peach Leaf Curl Peach leaf curl (Taphrina deformans) is another leaf-yellowing fungal disease that peach trees are prone to. It can also cause puckering, thickening, stunting, and eventual dropping of infected foliage. The disease tends to appear in the cool, wet springtime. How to Fix Unfortunately, once the signs of this disease are visible, it’s not possible to control it. However, you can apply a fungicide (chlorothalonil or copper fungicide) during the tree’s dormant period in late fall after the leaves have fallen (and before new buds begin to swell) to control the problem for the following season’s growth. Pest Infestation If you have a big enough infestation of leaf-eating pests, such as peach tree borers, aphids or mites, it can cause damage that makes it difficult for nutrients to be absorbed, resulting in yellowing of the leaves. How to Fix Vigilance and quick action before infestations get out of control is your best line of defense. Often, it’s possible to get rid of aphids or similar pests with a strong jet of water. Alternatively, apply a thorough coating of an insecticidal soap or organic insecticide, such as neem oil.

The best time to plant a tree can be in the early spring (before it starts leafing out) or in the fall, although many experts prefer a fall planting. When trees are planted, they love moderate conditions—they don't want to deal with an incoming heat wave. Planting a tree at the right time gives it a chance to get accustomed to its new home before dealing with challenges. Learn the best time of year to plant the different types of trees, why both spring plantings and fall plantings are valid options, and the steps you need to take to get the tree in the ground without stressing it out too much. The Best Time of Year to Plant Trees The best time of year to plant trees is when the ground is workable and the soil temperature is mild, usually in spring or fall, with no heat waves on the horizon. For spring plantings: The soil warms up earlier in the year in southern parts of the country. Extreme heat comes quicker there, so it's best to plant early in the spring. For fall plantings: In northern parts of the country, it is imperative to plant a tree before the ground freezes and becomes unworkable. It's best to plant it way before the freeze, to give the tree time to become established. Getting the timing right gives the tree a chance to develop a healthy root system before it has to cope with extreme conditions, but what type of tree you are planting also makes a difference: Deciduous Trees Deciduous trees are so-called because they drop their leaves partway through fall. This causes you the extra work of having to rake them up, but fall leaf-drop isn't all bad. When the leaves fall from a deciduous tree, it signals the beginning of its dormant period. It serves as a cue for you: the beginning of the dormant period is the best time to plant this type of tree. Needled Evergreen Trees The growth of needled evergreen trees slows in winter, but these trees do not undergo the kind of dormancy that deciduous trees do. It therefore makes less of a difference whether you plant an evergreen in fall or in early spring. Experts lean slightly in favor of a fall planting, simply because it gives your tree more time to become established before the heat of summer rolls around again. 2 Reasons Fall Planting Usually Works Best Fall planting works great because, unlike spring planting, the tree has a long time to become established before the threat of a premature heat wave. For deciduous trees, you can take advantage of their period of dormancy. The beginning of this period occurs in fall and is the best time to plant deciduous trees. When to Plant Popular Trees Let's take a look at when to plant popular trees: Maple Trees Maples are a favorite for autumn color, and you can grow sugar maples to make your own maple syrup. Plant these trees in the early fall. Birch Trees Paper birch and river birch are two better-known types of this popular tree. Another deciduous tree, fall is the ideal time to plant birch. Pine Trees There are over 40 types of pine. The pine is the classic needled evergreen tree, and it can be planted in fall or in early spring. Before Planting a Tree Keep in mind two factors when purchasing a tree and determining when to plant: Bare-root vs. container-grown: "Bare-root" trees will likely have a harder time surviving in harsh conditions compared to container-grown trees. Tree type: Not all trees are the same—for example, evergreen and deciduous trees need different care. How to Plant a Tree Successfully Dig the hole. Make the hole twice the width of the root ball but not as deep as it is wide. Install the plant in this hole. Ensure that the top of the root ball is an inch or two above the soil line. Backfill the hole. Use a mixture of soil and compost. Tamp the soil down. Gently press down on the soil around the plant to make sure it's firm. Water lightly as you're backfilling and tamping. This will help the soil settle. Create a slight depression around the tree. This will make it easier to catch and hold water. Irrigate. Water the tree again to saturate its soil. 4 Tips to Growing a Strong Tree Select the Right Type of Tree and Locate It Properly Make sure the tree is right for your USDA Zone. When ready to plant, select a location that meets the tree's growing requirements (such as proper sun exposure). Water the Tree Properly Watering the tree properly is one of the key steps to take in growing a strong tree. Don't overlook the importance of watering even in winter: Keep the tree you planted in fall well-watered throughout the winter. Apply Mulch Add a 3-inch layer of mulch around the tree. This will help it conserve water and kill the weeds that would be competing with your tree for water and nutrients. But avoid placing mulch right up against the trunk, which invites pest damage. Prune the Tree Properly Pruning a flowering tree at the wrong time can deprive you of its gorgeous flowers. The right time to prune spring-blooming trees is right after they've finished blooming. If you prune later than that, you risk removing the new buds that will bring next year's flowers. Can I Plant a Tree in the Spring? Yes, as long as you do so in early spring. If you don't have the time to water your new tree and live in a region where spring is rainier than fall, spring may be the best time to plant a tree: Nature will take care of the watering for you. Adequate water is a key factor in a successful planting. If you live more north and don't have the time to install the tree early enough in the fall, you could risk damage to the tree due to freezing.

Gray birch is a fast-growing, medium-sized North American native tree that stands out for its attractive color-changing bark, long-lasting catkins, and slender silhouette. This adaptable type of birch tree is easy to grow in full sun or part shade. It tolerates most soils but prefers wetter locations and temperatures that aren’t too high. Gray Birch Care Here are the main care requirements for easy-to-grow gray birch trees: Position in full sun or partial shade. Plant in a cool and moist site with little competition from other species. Water regularly in dry sites during the growing season. Mulch to retain moisture and cool soil. Grows in most soil types, from poor to loamy. Fertilizer is not a typical requirement. Light Gray birch trees do best in a partial shade location. Receiving morning sun means their foliage will look the most impressive. These trees can handle a full sun position, especially in cooler regions, but avoid planting in a full shade location. Soil One of the biggest advantages of gray birch trees is their ability to grow in most soils. For this reason, some enthusiasts refer to the species as the ‘poverty birch’. They can thrive in poor, infertile, rocky soils, rich loamy varieties, and heavy clay. They do prefer a well-drained but moist site. Water While gray birch trees can handle occasional periods of dryness, they do best in consistently moist soils. They have a shallow root system and don’t appreciate extended droughts or high temperatures. Your birch tree won't need supplemental watering in a naturally moist site with sufficient rainfall. If the site is drier, watering deeply over a few hours once a week during the growing season is recommended. An amount of 8 to 18 inches should be sufficient.1 The moisture levels are sufficient when the soil can form into a ball in your hand rather than crumbling. Mulching around the tree base also helps to conserve water. Temperature and Humidity The gray birch isn’t a tree to plant in hot, sultry southern states. This species does best in cooler climates where temperatures are unlikely to exceed 75°F and humidity levels aren’t too high.2Mulching around the tree base also helps to keep the soil consistently cool. Fertilizer Landscape trees such as the gray birch rarely need supplemental nutrients to thrive.1 Only apply fertilizer for this species if a soil test reveals there is a particular nutrient deficiency. If you are fertilizing, use a slow-release formula in late fall or early spring, avoiding application when the ground is frozen. Fertilizing in the summer or early fall can cause late growth that won’t harden off in time for the cold winter months. Pruning A big advantage of the gray birch is that it does not require heavy pruning. Excessive pruning—more than 25% of the canopy—can be detrimental to the health of the tree.1 Too much light getting down to the soil can increase soil temperatures and decrease moisture levels—something you don’t want for a gray birch. If you do need to prune, it should just be to remove any broken, dying, or dead branches in the late summer or fall. Avoid pruning from May to the end of July. This is when bronze birch borers are in flight and these pests are attracted to fresh cuts made after pruning. Propagating Gray Birch Propagating gray birch trees by rooting branch cuttings is tricky but not impossible. If you want to try this technique, being mindful of the low success rate, try following the steps below: Take an 8-inch cutting using sterile pruning shears from a branch tip with healthy new growth. Cut below a leaf node (the lump on the stem where a leaf grows from). Keep any leaves growing on the top half of the cutting and remove the leaves on the bottom few inches. As an optional step, dip the base of the cutting in rooting hormone to increase the chance of it taking root. Plant the cutting in a well-draining, moist potting mix. Loosely cover the pot and cutting with a clear plastic bag. This helps retain a beneficially moist environment. Position the pot in a spot that receives bright but indirect light, and that is away from drafts. Ensure the soil remains evenly moist without being soggy. If successful, the cutting should take root within eight weeks. Once the cutting has fully taken root and remains securely in the soil when you tug, it is ready for transplanting. Transfer the cutting to its permanent location; try not to damage the roots. Keep the transplant evenly moist for the next two months. The propagation technique has succeeded if you see new growth emerging from the cutting. How to Grow Gray Birch From Seed Growing gray birch from seed is a more reliable way to produce a new tree than propagating from cutting. To attempt this technique, try following the steps below: Collect the seeds from catkins as they turn from green to brown in the fall. Stratify the seeds for at least one month in a refrigerator or unheated garage to break their dormancy and prepare them for germination. Sow the seeds in a container of rich potting soil. Cover seeds lightly with a shallow layer of soil and dampen with water. Move the container to a warm spot where it receives bright but indirect light, and keep the soil evenly moist. Keeping in a cold frame helps provide an ideal germination environment. Within a few weeks, you should see signs of germination. Thin out the seedlings as necessary, aiming to select the strongest-looking individuals. When the seedlings are strong enough for handling, prick individuals out and put them into their own pots. Keep them in the cold frame for their first winter. Transplant the successful seedling to its outdoor position after the last frosts in the spring. Overwintering Watering deeply and mulching the tree base in late fall helps preserve moisture and maintain consistent soil temperatures around the roots. Additional watering may be required if you experience a dry winter, but don't leave the soil soggy. Common Pests and Plant Diseases Bronze birch borer infestations can be a problem for gray birch trees. An infestation will result in chlorotic leaves, leaf drop, and the death of upper branches on the tree. Without insecticidal treatment, infestations can eventually kill the tree.3 Fortunately, the gray birch is not as bothered by this pest as some birch species, and healthy trees are less likely to suffer damage than stressed and weak ones. There is also a cultivar, Betula populifolia ‘Whitespire Senior’, which is particularly resistant to these insects. Avoid planting your gray birch in soils with high alkaline pH levels—this can also lead to chlorosis (a yellowing of leaves that would normally be green). Also, watch out for leaf miner attacks (these burrowing larvae are treatable with insecticides) and cankers (infected, dead areas on branches).

Elegant, showy, and resistant to pests and disease, Japanese snowbell tree (Styrax japonicus) is a little-known gem with potential in both urban and rural landscapes. This small, compact tree blooms in May and June displaying clusters of fragrant, bell-shaped, white or pink blossoms and glossy, dark green foliage. Long-lasting fruits appear in autumn and mature trees develop fissured bark adding winter interest. Japanese snowbell is a good choice to plant around patios and in beds or shrub borders providing dappled sunlight for shade-loving garden plants and flowers. Dwarf varieties can also be grown in containers. Read this guide to learn more about the lovely Japanese snowbell tree and how to fit one into your landscape plan. Japanese Snowbell Care Once your Japanese snowbell tree is established, little maintenance is required other than occasional pruning to develop the desired shape and size. Early growth creates a vase-like form in most cultivars extending to a more rounded crown as these trees mature. Fruits drop in autumn and early winter but seldom create a need for extensive clean-up. Plant in a location sheltered from high winds. Light Plant this small, ornamental tree where it will receive six hours of bright, direct sun exposure daily. In climates with hot summers (90 degrees°F ) two hours of afternoon shade protect foliage from sunburn. Insufficient light causes leaves to yellow and drop. Soil Japanese snowbell is tolerant of clay and sand but humus-rich loam that drains well delivers the healthiest growth. Soil pH should range from neutral to slightly acidic with ideal levels between 5.5 and 6.5. Water This tree has moderate moisture needs but won't tolerate drought conditions. Water newly planted saplings weekly during the first year to keep soil consistently damp but not soggy. Irrigate deeply with a gallon of water every one or two weeks depending on rainfall in your area. Once established, plan to water as needed during the summer months. A 3- to 4-inch layer of mulch retains soil moisture and discourages competing weeds. Temperature and Humidity Japanese snowbell adapts well to average temperatures in USDA zones 5 through 8 and parts of zone 9. Some varieties tolerate temperatures as high as 95°F as long as afternoon shade is provided. Others survive temperatures as low as 5°F but extreme fluctuations in temperate could be damaging to this tree. Mulching helps prevent root damage in colder climates with late spring frosts. Humidity levels generally aren't an issue however extended periods of hot, moist air can lead to fungal problems. Fertilizer Fertilizer is optional for trees grown in good soil with several suggestions for supplemental feeding. Some growers recommend withholding fertilizer until young trees establish a strong root system, then applying a balanced, water-soluble formula in early spring before new growth begins. To encourage blooming choose a product slightly higher in phosphorous. Types of Japanese Snowbell S. japonicus 'Carillon': Weeping cultivar with white flowers on cascading branches. Slow growers mature at 10 feet tall. Hardy in USDA zones 5 to 8. S. japonicus 'Crystal': This cultivar forms a more columnar shape with black-green foliage and white flowers on purple stems. Hardy to USDA zone 5. S. japonicus 'Emerald Pagoda': Young trees display upright pyramidal growth with large white flowers and leathery, vibrant green leaves. Hardy to USDA zone 5 S. japonicus 'Evening Light': Leaves emerge as purple-maroon turning to a maroon-green hue. White flowers feature maroon sepals. Growth is often multi-stemmed with trees maturing at 15 feet tall and 10 feet wide. Hardy to USDA zone 5 S. japonicus 'Pink Chimes': Fragrant light pink blossoms appear in June on this cultivar with a shrubby growth habit. Hardy in USDA zones 5 to 8. Pruning Japanese snowbell trees grow slowly so pruning requirements are minimal and done in late winter or early spring before buds appear. Remove low branches from young trees to encourage crown development and reduce multi-stemmed cultivars to a single stem to create a tree form. Inspect your tree annually and remove dead, diseased, and damaged branches. Otherwise, gentle pruning about every three years is usually adequate to retain the desired shape. Propagating Japanese Snowbell New cultivars of Japanese snowbell are coming to market as this ornamental gains popularity with homeowners. It isn't legal to propagate trademarked cultivars so plan to purchase additional nursery-grown seedlings. Although other varieties can be propagated in summer with softwood cuttings,success is limited with slow development. It can take several years to get a reliable transplant. Potting and Repotting Japanese Snowbell Several dwarf varieties of Japanese snowbell are suited to growing in containers maturing at just 8 to 10 feet tall and 3 to 4 feet wide. Select a pot with plenty of drainage holes and at least twice as wide and deep as the rootball. Plastic or glazed ceramic pots work best for retaining soil moisture. Potting and repotting is best done in early spring. Starting with a nursery-grown tree, fill your container 1/3 full with quality potting soil. Lift the tree from its starter pot or remove burlap or other material from the rootball and lightly shake off excess soil. Set the tree on top of the soil and spread out the roots. Start backfilling in around them with more potting soil until it reaches the original soil line on the trunk. Watering as you go helps settle the soil. Water thoroughly. Remember that potted trees require more frequent irrigation. Slow-growing Japanese snowball requires potting up only about every three years or when roots begin to extend through the drainage holes. Choose a new, larger container twice the width and depth of the larger rootball and follow the steps above. Overwintering In colder climates, protect Japanese snowbell roots with a thick layer of mulch. Move potted trees to a sheltered location and insulate pots in areas where temperatures dip below 5°F or the low temperature tolerated by your cultivar. Common Pests and Plant Diseases Japanese snowbell is unaffected by common pests and plant diseases. Ambrosia beetles may be attracted to plants weakened by environmental stresses like extreme temperatures. Prevent infestations by maintaining healthy growth and knocking down pests as soon as you spot them with a strong spray from a garden hose. There are no chemical controls for Ambrosia beetles, although pyrethrin is sometimes applied in worst cases. How to Get Japanese Snowbell to Bloom Bloom Months Japanese snowbells bloom in late spring to early summer. Depending on variety, flowers appear between May and June lasting for several weeks. What Do Japanese Snowbell Flowers Look and Smell Like? Lightly fragrant, white or pink, 3/4 inch flowers appear in masses on most varieties although new cultivars are being developed with larger flowers. Bell-shaped blossoms are pendulous, dangling below branches from green or purple stems with some white varieties featuring purple sepals. Foliage grows in an upright orientation on upper branch surfaces which showcases the flowers below. This tree is most valued for its spring floral display with mixed opinions on flower fragrance— some say pleasant, odd, or coarse. It is highly attractive to bees and other pollinators. How to Encourage More Blooms Healthy trees bloom easily and profusely without additional fertilizer. You can, however, boost blooms with a high-phosphorous NPK fertilizer in early spring. Caring For Japanese Snowbell After It Blooms Japanese snowbell blossoms drop naturally and seeds develop fruits called drupes in late summer and early autumn. There is no need to remove flowers. Common Problems With Japanese Snowbell This is an easy-care, ornamental hardwood that is nearly problem free. Issues that may come up are likely due to inadequate watering or environmental causes. Yellowing Leaves Foliage can become chlorotic, with a faded, yellowing color, when soil is too alkaline, temperatures are too high, or soil gets too dry. Check the soil and lower pH before planting if necessary. Make sure the variety you choose is adapted for your growing zone and water new plantings weekly for the first year. Apply mulch to hold in soil moisture and discourage weeds. Lack of Blooms A deficit of flowers is likely caused by a mistake with fertilizer. Planted in humus-rich, well-drained soil, these trees do not require supplemental feeding. Fertilizers with too much nitrogen result in overabundant foliage at the expense of flowers.

Planting a Chinese fringe tree (Chionanthus retusus) can add a striking focal point in a garden without taking up too much room or creating too much work for a homeowner. This slow-growing, small ornamental tree provides a lot of aesthetic value and wow-factor for its size. Its profuse white blooms and dark purple fruit can be stunning and make this species one to consider adding to your landscape if you are looking for a unique non-native to add. How to Plant a Chinese Fringe Tree While the Chinese fringe tree is ultimately not that fussy, soil is the most significant consideration you need to consider when planting this species. Be sure to test the soil before planting to ensure it is moist, well draining, rich, and acidic. Selecting a Planting Site Picking a planting site for the Chinese fringe tree where the soil is good and the tree will receive plenty of sun. Once those requirements are met, choose a location where it’ll be visible, to take advantage of its ornamental value. Pick a spot where its blooms can be seen during the spring and its interesting bark can be seen during the winter. Spacing, Depth, and Support If planting more than one Chinese fringe tree, the ideal spacing is 15 to 20 feet apart. This distance will provide enough area for each tree to get enough sunlight to achieve its best blooms. When planting, you will want to ensure the depth is twice as wide as the root ball is deep. Once planted, you will not need to support the tree as most Chinese fringe trees on the market are multistemmed. Care As fabulous as it looks, the Chinese fringe tree is surprisingly low maintenance and problem-free if you provide it with the right conditions. Plant Chinese fringe trees in an area that receives full sun. Ensure the tree's soil is acidic and well-draining. Water the Chinese fringe tree often in dry weather. Prune Chinese fringe trees sparingly. Light The Chinese fringe tree prefers full sun to part shade but to guarantee that your tree produces a profuse amount of blooms you must provide your tree with full sun. Soil Providing organically rich, well-draining, and moist soil will give your Chinese fringe tree the best chance of thriving. Aim for soil with a low pH (under 7.0). Water Keeping your Chinese fringe tree well-watered is essential to keep it producing plenty of flowers. This particular species does not tolerate excessively dry weather and needs to be watered more in dry conditions, or its health and ornamental qualities will suffer noticeably. Temperature and Humidity The Chinese fringe tree is not incredibly fussy regarding temperature and humidity. It will be happy if you keep it situated in the recommended USDA hardiness zones of 5 through 9. Fertilizer While not necessary for the tree's health, providing a Chinese fringe tree with supplemental fertilizer will enhance its blooms. A yearly application of flowering tree or shrub fertilizer will support its flower production. Pruning Pruning Chinese fringe tree should be kept to a minimum. Being a multistemmed tree, they look best with a natural, untended look. When there are branches that are dead, damaged, or crowding each other, pruning is recommended. Propagating Propagating a Chinese fringe tree is notoriously difficult, both from cuttings and by seed, and the average hobby gardener is unlikely to succeed. Your best bet at getting another Chinese fringe tree is purchasing it. Common Pests and Plant Diseases Fortunately the Chinese fringe tree does not suffer from many pests or diseases, and its issues usually do not threaten the tree's life. The most significant concern when dealing with pests may be mites, which can easily be treated. You will not run into many disease issues beyond superficial powdery mildew, which can be treated easily with a fungicide available at any nursery or home center. How to Get a Chinese Fringe Tree to Bloom To encourage your Chinese fringe tree to bloom profusely, plant it in full sun and clear away anything that shades the tree during the day. That action alone will elevate your blooms. Provide a yearly dose of fertilizer and provide it with a steady supply of water. Without enough water, its flower production will stall.

Hass avocado trees are best known for their edible fruits with bumpy, dark skin and pale green, creamy flesh. First established in California, this cultivar is believed to be a hybrid of Mexican and Guatemalan avocado varieties. Beyond fruit cultivation, you might grow a Hass avocado tree for its attractive leafy green foliage and conical growth habit. This self-fertile fruit tree grows best with at least six hours of full sun, well-draining, acidic soil, and warm daytime temperatures with moderate evening temperatures. All parts of the Hass avocado tree, including the foliage, fruit, seed, and bark are considered toxic to pets. Hass Avocado Tree Care If you want to grow a Hass avocado tree, here are the care requirements you need to know. Plant in loose, well-draining soil. Choose a location that receives bright, indirect light. Water thoroughly, but not to the point of oversaturation. Feed during the spring, summer, and fall months. Light For a lush, leafy canopy and bloom production, Hass avocado trees should receive at least six hours of bright, indirect sunlight. These trees can tolerate light shade, too, but too much and the tree’s foliage growth will be hindered. Soil The soil for growing a Hass avocado tree should be loose and well-draining. Loamy or sandy soil will support healthy root growth but heavy clay soil should be avoided because of poor drainage. Water Hass avocado trees require regular watering. Once per week is a good baseline for mature trees, but take into account recent rainfall or humidity levels. The top inch or so of soil should be dry before watering again. Water to restore soil moisture but don’t allow the soil to become drenched and soggy. Temperature and Humidity The Hass avocado tree is mainly considered hardy in USDA growing zones 9 to 11. It does best with moderately warm and humid temperatures; between 60°F and 85°F with average-to-high humidity is considered ideal. The tree won’t tolerate freezing temperatures so in climates that see temperatures dip below freezing, the best option is to grow the tree as a container plant that can be sheltered indoors in the winter. Fertilizer Hass avocado trees are heavy feeders. Plan on fertilizing trees during the spring, summer, and fall with a well-balanced NPK formula applied to the soil. In addition, apply a foliar fertilizer to the leaves in the spring. Zinc and nitrogen should be applied to the soil in spring, summer, and fall, plus a foliar fertilizer application of zinc in the spring.2 Pruning In general, avocado trees don’t require much pruning and Hass avocado trees aren’t any different. You should avoid over- or under-pruning the tree.3 To do that, prune to remove dead wood and maintain a conical shape that allows easy access to the tree’s branches and sufficient light penetration and airflow. Propagating a Hass Avocado Tree As a cultivar, a Hass avocado tree can only be propagated through grafting and it’s best done in the spring. If you have the skills and tools to graft a tree—including a healthy rootstock specimen—here’s how to do it: Gather the following supplies: sharp snips, a sharp knife, and something to cover the grafted area, such as grafting tape. Select a section of new growth between 5 and 6 inches long with several unopened leaf buds. Using the snips, cut the new growth branch at a 45-degree angle. Remove the tip of the cutting, along with any leaves that are present. On the tree you’ll be grafting onto, wound the tree by removing a section of the bark. Take the cutting and position it onto the grafting site, with the cambium of the cutting and the cambium of the grafted tree making contact. Use grafting tape to secure the cutting to the graft tree, covering all exposed areas. After several weeks, the grafted branch and the main tree should be fused together. Potting and Repotting a Hass Avocado Tree Like other types of avocado trees, you can grow a Hass avocado tree in a pot and this is especially recommended if you live in USDA hardiness zones 8 or below. In zone 8, you may be able to overwinter the tree outdoors. Beyond that, you’ll need to grow the avocado tree indoors or be prepared to move it inside during cold weather months. Hass avocado trees grown indoors usually mature to a height of 5 to 7 feet. For store-bought trees that are already several feet tall, you should choose a large container. Pick a pot with drainage holes to prevent the soil from becoming waterlogged, which can lead to root rot. Fill the container with a loose soil mix; cactus or succulent soil mix works well. Plant the tree—covering the root ball—and water thoroughly. Depending on how large of a container you choose, you may not need to replant the tree for several years. Overwintering Hass avocado trees grown in USDA zones 9 to 11 will require no special accommodations since the year-round temperatures remain well above freezing. If you plan to grow this type of tree in USDA zone 8, you’ll need to provide the tree with some additional protection during the colder months of the year. If temperatures are forecasted to drop below freezing, cover the base of the tree with a frost blanket. It’s also helpful if the tree has been planted beneath an overhang or with a south-facing orientation in the shelter of a nearby building. If your Hass avocado tree is grown in a container, you can move it to a protected location when cold weather is imminent. Common Pests & Plant Diseases Like other types of avocado trees, Hass avocado trees are susceptible to attack by pests including several types of mites, along with thrips, caterpillars, borers, and lace bugs, which live in colonies on the leaves of the trees.4 Fungal diseases, like canker and root rot, can also cause damage to the roots, branches, and foliage of the tree. How to Get a Hass Avocado Tree to Bloom Although the Hass avocado tree is best known for its fruit, the flowers are an integral part of the fruiting process. Here’s what to know about how to encourage your Hass avocado tree to bloom. Bloom Months Hass avocado trees typically bloom between March and May, although the specific growing environment may skew this timeframe slightly earlier or later. In tropical climates, flower production is usually greatly reduced. This is because Hass avocado trees depend on a period of cool temperatures (under 45°F to jumpstart flower production. How Long Do Hass Avocado Trees Bloom? You can expect Hass avocado trees to bloom for a period of about six weeks, although each individual flower only blooms for two days. How to Encourage More Blooms If you have the right environmental conditions for a Hass avocado tree to bloom but still see no flowers and you have a mature tree (it can take up to 4 years for a grafted tree to produce blooms), then you might need to fertilize the tree with the proper nutrients to support foliar growth. In addition, your tree may not be receiving sufficient sunshine to promote bloom development. You might need to transplant the tree to a suitable site that receives at least six hours of light each day. Common Problems With Hass Avocado Trees The Hass avocado tree is prone to a few pests and problems. Here are the most common warning signs to look for and what to do to improve the health of your tree if you notice these symptoms. Leaves With Yellow Spots If you notice yellow spots appearing on the leaves of the tree, it could be a sign of lace bugs. Closely inspect the underside of the leaves for visual signs of an infestation; you may see black specks of feces. In small numbers, no corrective action may be required for lace bugs.5 However, if you need to intervene, neem oil is the best option for treatment. When the yellow of the leaves is also accompanied by undersized foliage or the leaves are turning brown at the tips, you may be seeing evidence of root rot. Examine the soil for signs of oversaturation. You should extend the period between watering sessions and amend the soil if necessary to provide sufficient drainage. Discolored or Scarred Fruit Sunblotch is a disease that affects avocado trees and results in discoloration or visible scars on the skin of the avocado fruit. Unfortunately, there’s no cure for sunblotch and the tree should be removed.6 Thrips can also cause discoloration of Hass avocado fruit, usually appearing as dull, brown patches on the skin of the fruit. To treat a thrips infestation, use a neem oil spray.

Plum blossom (Prunus mume), also commonly known as Chinese plum or Japanese plum, is an ornamental tree that produces attractive blossoms and small stone fruits. Its beauty rivals the cherry blossom tree, and it blooms earlier in the year, making it a welcome sight during winter. Plum blossom trees grow best in full to partial sunlight, and require moist but well-draining soil with an acidic pH level. The leaves, stems, and seeds of the plum blossom are toxic to dogs and cats. Plum Blossom Care Here are the main care requirements for growing plum blossom. Plant in well-draining soil. Choose a spot that receives at least four to six hours of sunlight daily. Water regularly but ensure adequate drainage to avoid oversaturation. Feed with a nitrogen-rich fertilizer during late summer or early fall. Light Like most flowering and fruiting trees, plum blossom trees will do best in a location that receives full sun. However, the tree can grow in partial shade conditions but it should receive at least four hours of sunlight a day. Soil Well-draining soil is the main requirement for the planting site. And while the tree can tolerate a range of soil conditions, loamy, rich soil is ideal. It prefers acidic soil pH levels. Water The plum blossom will need to be watered regularly to ensure the soil remains moist but mature trees exhibit moderate drought tolerance. When deciding how often to water this tree, keep in mind that the soil should not become oversaturated. Good drainage assists in preventing soggy soil conditions. Temperature and Humidity The ideal climate for plum blossom trees is USDA hardiness zones 6 to 9, which can see temperatures dip below 0°F. Trees planted in the coldest regions should be located in a sheltered area to protect against the effects of harsh winter winds. On the other hand, if you grow plum blossom trees in a warmer climate, choose a planting location that provides partial shade during the hottest part of the day to avoid foliage damage from intense sun. Fertilizer To support the production of foliage and fruit, plum blossom trees do best when grown in nutrient-rich soil. If you have subpar soil quality, you should consider supplementing with an organic fertilizer. For conventional fertilizer, a high nitrogen formula can help to support growth, especially during the first few years. Apply fertilizer during the late summer or early fall to support the following season’s growth. As a general rule of thumb, trees in the Prunus genus should produce about 24 inches of new shoot growth every year.2 If your tree is producing more than that, cut back on feeding nitrogen-rich fertilizer. If it's growing more slowly, increase the amount of nitrogen fertilizer you administer. Pruning If you decide to prune the plum blossom tree to maintain a desired shape and eliminate any dead wood, when you prune the tree is critically important if you are hoping to maximize flower production. Plum blossom trees should be pruned immediately after flowering. Since the tree blooms on the previous year’s wood, pruning ahead of flowering will result in the loss of buds and reduced flower production. In most instances, you’ll want to cut back the limbs by two nodes. Alternatively, if fungal disease is a concern, you can prune the plum blossom tree in the summer. While the tree is less susceptible to infection in the pruning cuts, you’ll likely reduce some of the tree’s flowering potential for the following year. Propagating Plum Blossom Trees Cuttings of prunus mume can be notoriously hard to root and to grow a plant that is true to the parent cultivar, you’ll have to graft a softwood cutting onto a rootstock. Because of the challenge of propagation and slow rate of flowering activity (usually at least two years for grafted specimens), it’s usually best to purchase a young tree from a nursery. How to Grow Plum Blossom From Seed Plum blossom trees are known to be challenging to propagate using cuttings but have better results when grown from seed, although it may take at least three years to see flower production. If you’d like to grow plum blossom from seeds—acquired from ripened fruit or a nursery, here’s how to do it: Fill a plastic bag with moistened sphagnum moss and sand (1:1 ratio). Bury the seeds inside the filler material. Stratify the seeds by placing the bag inside a refrigerator for about three months. If the seeds begin to sprout sooner, it’s time to plant them. In the spring, sow the seeds in your desired outdoor garden location. Alternatively, you can start the seeds in greenhouse conditions and then transplant in the spring. Common Pests & Plant Diseases Some of the most common pests that are attracted to plum blossom trees are aphids, spider mites, tent caterpillars, and borers. Scale can also be a problem, especially on the fruit produced by the tree. Diseases that sometimes afflict plum blossom trees are usually fungal. Some of the most common infections are honey fungus, verticillium wilt, silver leaf, and brown rot. In addition, Prunus species are also subject to bacterial canker, which causes sunken, oozing sections of bark and impedes shoot development.3 How to Get Plum Blossom to Bloom Plum blossom trees typically bloom in February and March, but as early as January in more temperate climates. This early blooming activity distinguishes it from the similar (and more well-known) cherry blossom tree. What Do Plum Blossom Flowers Look and Smell Like? Plum blossom flowers have a showy appearance with pink petals, although some cultivars display white or even reddish blossoms. The single or double flowers on a plum blossom tree have a short stem that emerges from the bare branches of the tree, prior to the appearance of foliage. The tree will stay in bloom for several weeks, up to a month. Aside from a splashy show of color, the plum blossom tree is also noted for its sweet, slightly spicy fragrance emanating from the opened flower blossoms. Common Problems With Plum Blossom Plum blossom trees are generally considered to be low-maintenance, but they can be impacted by various pests or environmental conditions. The most common issue relates to imbalances in watering or infection from bacteria and fungi. Leaves Turning Yellow or Brown If the leaves of the plum blossom tree begin to turn yellow, it could be a sign that the tree is experiencing stress from being under-watered. Check the soil and ensure that it’s moist. Water regularly to improve soil moisture but don’t overwater the tree, remembering that the soil shouldn’t become overly saturated and that it can take time for a tree to recover from drought stress. Leaves that turn yellow or develop brown spots can also be a sign of fungal or bacterial infection. A closer inspection of the tree's limbs and roots can reveal other symptoms that might point to verticillium wilt, bacterial canker, brown rot, or silver leaf disease. If you suspect any of these diseases, it would be best to do more research on the specific condition and how to minimize the impact of the disease on your tree and surrounding landscape plants.

The eastern red cedar is a slow-growing conifer native to eastern North America that is extremely adaptable to various soils and growing conditions. The species' name is a misnomer, with it being a juniper. The adaptable species can grow almost anywhere, giving it a variety of garden uses. It has allowed horticulturalists to develop specific cultivars to suit landscape needs for almost any situation. Overall the wild type of the eastern red cedar is an attractive needled evergreen with excellent ornamental value due to its winter interest that comes from its startling blue berry-like fruit and gorgeous bark. For those looking to add ecological value, these same cones provide a favorite food source to native birds and wildlife while its lush condensed foliage makes for excellent habitat. An eastern red cedar or one of its many cultivars may be an excellent choice if you want a conifer to add to your landscape. Although not invasive, these are colonizing trees, so if you plant one, expect many more to pop up in the surrounding area. Attributes of the Eastern Red Cedar Pyramidal Salt tolerant Cultivars available Transplants well Good for bonsai Wildlife value Deer tolerant Black walnut resistant Air pollution resistant Caring for an Eastern Red Cedar Planting an eastern red cedar can be a big decision that takes a bit of thought. It can be a large tree that grows slowly, meaning it will be around for a while. Luckily while it can be a huge investment space-wise, its relative ease of care means you will not need to sink much time into the care of the tree once it becomes established in the landscape. Fortunately, being a pioneer species (i.e., a hardy species that is the first to colonize barren environments), it does not take much to establish itself in a given location. Care for the species is concerned mostly with protecting other trees in the area from pathogens that the eastern red cedar carries and ensuring that the species' potential for weediness does not allow it to overtake areas where seedlings are not wanted. Light A young eastern red cedar will do well growing in full sun to part shade, but as it matures, it will do best in full sun areas. Trees grown in less than the full sun that must compete for sunlight will settle into a low-growing shrub-like habit and exhibit a form expressed by more horizontal than vertical growth. If two trees compete, consider removing the smaller of the two to allow the more dominant one to benefit from the full sun as it establishes itself. Soil Of least concern to an eastern red cedar's overall vigor and health is the soil conditions it is planted in. The species does well in poor soils that others would not, which makes it able to thrive in the most intolerable conditions. When planted in good conditions, it prefers it will perform exceedingly well, establish itself quickly, and show a marked increase in growth rate. The tree's most preferred conditions would be rich loamy, consistently moist, and well-draining soil. Extremely adaptable, the only condition the eastern red cedar cannot tolerate is standing water. Save constantly soaked roots; this species can deal with almost any soil. Water Initially, as it is establishing itself, your eastern red cedar will demand a good amount of water until these needs taper off and the tree develops into a tree that can hold its own against some pretty harsh drought conditions. Until it is established, though, right after planting, it is necessary to give an eastern red cedar plenty of supplemental irrigation for the first two growing seasons. Judging the water needs by the soil dampness is the best bet for the species as the tree constantly demands damp soil without allowing standing water to collect. A good way to judge is to press your finger into the soil to a depth of two inches and feel for the soil's moisture. It is time to water your young tree if the soil is dry. Continue doing this throughout the first two growing seasons, checking a few times a week, especially in the summer, more if there are drought conditions. By the third year, you should be able to start tapering off. Temperature and Humidity The range of the eastern red cedar is immense, stretching from eastern coastal Canada south to the Gulf Coast of the United States. There are vast temperature differences in this large swatch of territory, but the eastern red cedar adapts to them all. The commonality is that the temperatures in its growing range never reach extremes. To keep your eastern red cedar healthy and happy, mimic its natural habitat and grow it in moderate temperatures in areas that do not push extreme limits. Keeping it in its happy zones of USDA 2-9 will ensure it thrives. Fertilizer Generally, eastern red cedars do not require any supplemental fertilizer. The species thrives in poor soil as a pioneer species. Adding supplemental fertilizer is unnecessary, especially for wild-type trees. Dwarf varieties or varieties with unique forms, such as abundant fruit-bearing cultivars, may require specific fertilizing. It is best to consult any documentation of the particular cultivar for its exact needs. Types of Eastern Red Cedar Juniperus virginiana has many cultivars with various traits to suit your functional and aesthetic needs. With nearly 40 cultivars available ranging from dwarf to weeping to silver in color and offering excellent disease resistance, nothing should stand in your way from planting this species in your landscape. Juniperus virginiana ‘Burkii’: This male cultivar has a pyramidal shape ranging in height from 10 feet to 15 feet with high resistance to cedar apple rust. Juniperus virginiana ‘Pendula’: This female cultivar has a drooping habit and abundant fruit. Juniperus virginiana ‘Grey Owl’: The dwarf cultivar with an extremely slow growth rate matures around 6 feet wide and 3 feet tall. Juniperus virginiana ‘Emerald Sentinel’: This cultivar is superbly vigorous and hardy, thriving in extreme conditions and the harshest conditions while still looking good. Common Pests & Plant Diseases The eastern red cedar is luckily free from serious disease and pest issues. The only large concern that many will find to be an issue is that the species acts as an alternate host for a fungal disease, cedar apple rust. While this disease does little harm to the eastern red cedar itself, it can cause serious issues to trees in the Malus family, often causing leaf and fruit damage. In early spring, fungal galls will emerge on the juniper tree that must be treated with a copper fungicide to prevent the spread of the disease to any susceptible trees nearby. Ultimately to be safe, all trees in the Malus family should be kept 500 to 1000 feet from any possible host.

One of thirteen junipers native to North America, the Skyrocket Juniper (Juniperus scopulorum) is indigenous to the western United States and Canada. A slow-growing conifer in the cypress family, it is typically narrow and pyramidal in form, growing to 30-40 feet tall. The reddish-brown bark sheds in thin strips and the foliage is silvery-blue to dark green and lies flat against the branches. As additional interest, the cones are waxy blue and berry-like and are enjoyed by birds and small mammals. Commonly called the Rocky Mountain Juniper, the tree prefers full sun, moist, well-drained soils and does well in dry, sandy soil. It is drought, salt spray, erosion, dry soil, and air pollution tolerant. It does not thrive in wet soils, high humidity, or high night temperatures. Skyrocket Juniper Care Once established, a Skyrocket juniper requires very little care. It grows best in full sun in well-draining, dry soils. Since it is slow-growing, pruning is not required other than removing damaged or broken branches. The junipers make an excellent hedge or screen and tolerate most conditions except soggy soils and excessively heavy ice storms. When planting as a hedge, space the trees at least 24 inches apart to allow for growth while maintaining full privacy coverage. If planted in a well-chosen location, Skyrocket juniper has no serious threats from diseases or insect pests. If you desire heavy cone production, plant male and female specimens near each other. Light While some cultivars can withstand partial shade, the trees will thrive when planted in full sun or in a location with 6 to 8 hours of sunlight per day. Soil This tree is adaptable to loam, rocky, sandy, and even clay soils, the area must be well-draining. Soggy soils1 will result in root rot and stunted growth. It can tolerate periods of drought, salt spray, and erosion. The soil pH should be neutral - not too acidic or alkaline. Water Once established, the trees seldom require supplemental watering. They prefer dry roots. Newly planted trees should be watered deeply once a week or so for several months to establish deep roots and then watered sparingly. The trees do not fare well in areas with wet winters and can develop root rot. Temperature and Humidity Skyrocket junipers prefer cooler climates and low humidity. In rainy areas, they may be susceptible to blights which causes the dieback of the stem tips. Because they prefer low-humidity areas, the trees are susceptible to injury or death from fires due to their thin, stringy bark and the volatile oils contained in the branches. Fertilizer It is usually unnecessary to fertilize this tree unless you have a soil deficiency. However, if you do feed the tree, the juniper will benefit from a slow-release fertilizer feeding in early spring and once again during the growing season. Fertilizers that are high in nitrogen (16-4-8 NPK) will promote lush green growth. Do not feed late in the growing season. Types of Skyrocket Juniper There are numerous Juniperus scopulorum cultivars with slightly different foliage and growth patterns. Juniperus scopulorum 'Blue Creeper': Blue foliage, low-growing, mounding shape. Juniperus scopulorum ''Blue Arrow': Narrow, upright growth with blue-green foliage. Juniperus scopulorum 'Wichita Blue': Compact, conical shape with blue to blue-gray foliage, male plant. Juniperus scopulorum 'Table Top': Low-growing, flat-topped juniper with silvery-blue foliage, female plant. Juniperus scopulorum 'Snow Flurries': Narrow small tree, columnar to fastigiate with blue foliage showcasing creamy white spots. Juniperus scopulorum 'Pathfinder': Broader, pyramidical shape with blue-green foliage in flat spray branches. Juniperus scopulorum 'Gray Gleam': Slow-growing, dense, columnar tree with silver-gray foliage. Juniperus scopulorum 'Cologreen': Upright, narrow form with bright green foliage. Juniperus scopulorum 'Blue Heaven': Small, conical tree with light blue foliage. Pruning The skyrocket juniper is slow-growing and does not require pruning unless you wish to keep the trees short. If a shorter tree is desired, select one of the cultivars that do not grow so tall. The only pruning that is required is to remove any broken or storm-damaged limbs. Propagating Skyrocket Juniper Select young, healthy, vigorous, semi-hardwood cuttings in mid to late summer. Remove the lower leaves, then coat the cut end with a rooting hormone. Place the cutting in a mixture of perlite and coarse sand, and keep the cutting moist and warm until roots develop. After 8 to 10 weeks, you can transplant the cutting into a larger pot filled with a loam and sand mix. Allow the juniper to develop a hardy root system throughout the fall and winter. Protect the plant from excessive moisture and harsh winds. Transplant to a permanent location in the spring. How to Grow Skyrocket Juniper From Seed Growing a skyrocket juniper from seed requires time, patience, and multiple steps. If the seeds are collected late in the season and appear dry, soak the seeds for two days in room-temperature water. Prepare a mixture of equal parts horticultural sand and peat-free compost to fill each small 2-inch pot. Make a small hole in the mixture and add a seed, covering it lightly with the mixture. Place the pot in a shady location outdoors for at least six months and water when the mixture feels completely dry to the touch. Check regularly after a few months and when a seedling appears, move to a larger pot containing a similar mixture. Water the seedlings (but don't keep the soil soggy) and leave them in a cool, shady spot until multiple leaves appear. When the roots have filled the pots, transplant the young trees into one-gallon pots, taking care not to disturb the roots too much. When the roots have filled the larger pots, dig a hole in a sunny spot big enough to accommodate the root ball in well-draining soil. Carefully ease the plant out of the pot and place it carefully in the hole. Make sure the stem is at the same depth as it was in the pot, and firm backfill the hole with soil. Water deeply for several months until the roots are firmly established. Overwintering There are no special requirements for overwintering Skyrocket junipers unless a heavy ice storm is predicted. Use a protective cover to prevent branches from snapping under the weight of the ice. Common Pests and Plant Diseases Skyrocket junipers do not have any severe threats from pests or plant diseases. In rainy seasons, they may be susceptible to blights which causes the dieback of the stem tips. Phomopsis twig blight may occur as well as Cedar-apple rust and other rust diseases. In poorly drained soils, root rot can occur. Aphids, bagworms, scale, and spider mites are potential insect pests but seldom kill the tree. Common Problems With Skyrocket Juniper The most common complaint about this easy-to-care-for tree is its slow growth pattern. It can take up to 10 years for the tree to reach its mature height.

Magnolia Ann is a spring blooming shrub featuring large, leathery green leaves and fragrant purple-red blossoms. The flowers, which have just a light scent, are cup-shaped and nearly 4 1/2 inches wide. The Magnolia x ‘Ann’ cultivar is one of the most popular in the "Little Girl" magnolia collection, developed for their small size, compact growing habit, and later bloom time. Magnolia Ann blooms in April and May, meaning you’re less likely to lose any buds to a late-season frost. It may even rebloom in mid-summer. Reaching 10 to 12 feet tall and wide at maturity, Magnolia Ann works well as a specimen plant. It serves as a privacy screen or hedge and can also be grown in pots. Magnolia Ann Care Magnolia Ann is considered a medium maintenance shrub when you first plant it, but once established, it won't need a lot of attention. The cultivar adapts to different soils, including clay, is drought tolerant, and doesn't require much pruning. Light For the best flowering, magnolia Ann needs 6 hours of bright sunlight daily. Although tolerant of heat, this shrub thrives best in moderate temperatures and benefits from afternoon shade when grown in especially sunny and warm climates. Too much shade can result in fewer and less vibrant flowers. Soil Magnolia Ann adapts to many of soil types, even clay, but a slightly acidic soil pH of 5.5 to 6.5 is needed for healthy growth and flowering. If your soil is too alkaline (above a 7.0 pH), increase acidity by adding peat at planting time. Rich, moderately moist, well-draining soil is ideal. Water Plan to water magnolia Ann twice weekly for the first six months after planting. Once established, you only need to water during extreme drought. Water thoroughly at ground level until it no longer drains into the soil. Overly saturated, soggy soil damages shallow roots. Temperature and Humidity Magnolia Ann is hardy in USDA growing zones 4 through 9 but performs best in regions with moderately warm summers and chilly but mild winters. This hybrid withstands freezing temperatures of -30 degrees F., making it a good choice for northern zones. Humidity levels of 30 to 50 percent are adequate. Fertilizer How to feed your magnolia Ann may be partly determined by soil type. Organic nitrogen-based fertilizers like bloodmeal work well for these smaller ornamental shrubs. You can also apply a slow-release liquid fertilizer such as an NPK 20-5-10 or 12-4-8. Feed in April and continue monthly through mid-July. Feed pot-grown magnolia Ann every two weeks during the growing season. Types of Small Magnolias In addition to magnolia Ann, seven other small, late spring blooming hybrids make up the “Little Girl” magnolia collection.1 Here are a few other slow growing smaller varieties you might consider for your garden. Little Gem: Magnolia x 'Little Gem' is considered a dwarf version of the Southern magnolia. It grows to just half the height, reaching 20 ft. tall and 10 ft. wide at maturity. Caerhay’s Surprise: Magnolia 'Caerhay's Surprise' is a slow growing type at just 13 ft. tall when mature. Dark pink flowers open in late March. Magnolia stellata: This 10-foot-tall magnolia features distinct, white, star-shaped flowers from March to April. Gail’s Favorite: A miniature version comparable to M. grandiflora, Magnolia laevifolia 'Gail's Favorite' produces similar white blooms and grows to just 6 1/2 ft. tall. Leonard Messer: Magnolia loebneri 'Leonard Messer' produces delicate pink flowers in spring and is 12 to 24 ft. tall at its mature height. Planting Magnolia Ann In southern zones, plant magnolia Ann in late autumn or early winter. Early spring planting is recommended for northern zones. Whatever location you plant magnolia Ann should be its permanent location, as its shallow roots don't respond well to being moved. A good spot receives morning sun and some afternoon shade, especially in the plant's southernmost range where afternoons temperatures get hot. Provide shelter from potential cold winter winds in northern areas. To plant, dig a hole 1 1/2 times as wide as the rootball and just deep enough so the uppermost root sits level with the soil line. Spread the roots out around the base of the trunk and fill in with soil. Tamp soil down to hold the shrub upright and water gently but thoroughly at soil level. Adding aged compost, bloodmeal, or NPK 10-10-10 fertilizer at planting time supplies nitrogen needed for vigorous initial growth. A 2- to 3-inch mulch layer keeps soil moist and cool. Pruning Magnolia Ann The natural form for this shrub is upright and dense, becoming rounded as it matures and spreads. It can be coaxed into small tree form by removing all but two or three main trunks at the plant's base, along with lower branches. Significant pruning should be done in mid-summer after flowers bloom. When grown as a shrub, magnolia Ann needs little pruning. Dead or damaged branches and leaves can be removed any time. Allow flowers to drop naturally. Propagating Magnolia Ann can be propagated with stem cuttings. This hybrid magnolia does produce seed pods, but propagating from seed will not produce a tree identical to the original (and it can take up to 15 years to bloom). Mid-summer is the best time to propagate a magnolia Ann You'll need a sterile cutting tool, 6-inch plastic pots with drainage, and a loose potting mix. Use your cutting tool to remove a 4- to 6-inch growing tip, making sure to include some of the semi-hardwood growth. Immediately place the cutting in water or a damp paper towel. Prepare 6-inch pots with loose, moist mix of potting soil or a mix of sand, perlite, and compost. Use a stick or your finger to make a narrow, deep hole in the center of the pot. Trim bottom leaves from the cutting and snip larger top leaves in half. Dip the stem's bottom in rooting hormone and insert it into the hole. Cover with plastic and use supports, if necessary, to keep it off the cutting. Place the pot(s) in a location with indirect light and keep soil moist. Check for root growth starting in three weeks by tugging lightly on the cutting. Resistance indicates it's rooting. Be patient — roots can take up to 8 weeks to develop. Remove plastic and continue to grow out in pots until new top growth emerges. Overwintering Magnolia Ann is quite cold hardy and doesn’t require much winter protection. High winds can damage this shrub so choose a planting spot with some shelter. Protect shallow roots with a layer of mulch during winter. Common Pests and Plant Diseases This small hybrid magnolia is fairly resistant to pests, but can be damaged by weevils, snails, scale and thrips. Treat the entire plant with horticultural or neem oil. Potential diseases include leaf spots, anthracnose, canker, dieback and powdery mildew. Most of these problems occur due to overwatering or foliage that stays wet. Always water at soil level and prune out diseased branches and leaves. Severe issues can be treated with copper-based fungicide. How to Get Magnolia Ann to Bloom Magnolia Ann’s flowers are large with deep, rich purple-red color. They appear one to two weeks later than many other spring-blooming magnolias. Failure to bloom or a low numbers of flowers is usually due to improper pruning, insufficient light, or not enough soil acidity. Fertilize in spring with a nitrogen-based fertilizer such as NPK 20-5-10 to support flowering. Magnolia flowers open either at the same time or before foliage appears. Look for deep green leaves to fill out on magnolia Ann by early summer. Leaves turn yellow in autumn before falling from this deciduous shrub. Common Problems With Magnolia Ann Magnolias are fairly easy to care for, though there are a few issues to look out for. Yellow Leaves Leaves on magnolia Ann naturally turn yellow in autumn. It’s a deciduous shrub so expect foliage to eventually turn brown and fall off. But during the growing season, yellowing leaves may be the result of too much or too little sunlight or water. Flowers Fail to Open Flowers that never open is a common problem for many magnolia varieties. It’s usually caused by late frost that damages the flower buds, though it may be due to insufficient light or overwatering. Tip Dieback When the tips of branches turn hard and brown it's usually due to frost damage. Magnolia Ann is frost and freeze hard, but the shrub can be damaged by strong, cold winds. Plant this shrub in a location with some protection from winter winds and keep it mulched.

Most Japanese maples are easy to grow once they become established and are trained to grow properly. One of the best ways to keep a Japanese maple healthy is through pruning. Some Japanese maples can be pricey, and people often have a plant-it-and-forget-it attitude with trees, but this is an essential care task you shouldn't skip. Here's our best guidance on when and how to prune Japanese maples with instructions so easy even a beginner can do it. Why Prune Japanese Maples Japanese maples should be pruned for health and aesthetics (i.e., its shape). Remove any dead, dying or broken branches, then prune for aesthetics with what's left. Prune it to establish its shape or to maintain a shape. Make no mistakes; every form of Japanese maple, whether weeping or upright, must be pruned to keep its visual appeal. If you feel tempted to skip pruning a Japanese maple for health, remember that you can't have a good looking tree if it isn't healthy. When to Prune Japanese Maples Like most trees, Japanese maples should be pruned when the tree is completely dormant. Usually this occurs anytime between the first frost and late winter. However, Japanese maples take extremely well to pruning and can be pruned throughout the year, if needed. Plan to prune the Japanese maple as a part of an annual health inspection you do when it's dormant in the winter. Make sure to assess it again after it leafs out (i.e., the buds open). At that point, examine its form and see if there are any dissimilar leaves. Look at the overall shape of the tree to see if you like it. Unless you pruned too much, your tree should have not suffered any negative effects. Tips for Pruning a Japanese Maple It is hard to believe, but pruning a Japanese maple is easy. You know what we want it to look like and what does not belong on a tree (broken, dying, or dead branches), and that is the most important thing. You always want to start by cleaning your tools with a solution of 90% alcohol or higher or a solution of bleach and water. Cleaning your tools sanitizes them and reduces the risk of spreading pathogens between tools and plants. Follow these guidelines for pruning a Japanese maple: Always prune away any lower branches that look different or have dissimilar leaves from the top of the tree. Remove the BDD (broken, dying, or dead) branches. Stake young trees to ensure they grow upright. Always use the proper tool to prune a Japanese maple: use hand pruners for branches up to 1/4 of an inch in diameter, loppers are used for anything up to 2 inches, and a pruning saw for anything larger than 2 inches. Never prune more than 1/3 of living tree material per year. Pruning cuts should always be made as close as possible to the collar without cutting into the collar itself. Pruning Upright vs. Weeping Japanese Maples Pruning these two types of Japanese maples is entirely different. You will do your normal yearly maintenance on both, but pruning to achieve a certain look will be very different. With weeping Japanese maples, imagine a line across the trunk and cut above it to obtain an umbrella-like form. Remove all dissimilar-looking leaves on lower branches. Repeat this process yearly until the tree reaches maturity, and then prune as needed to maintain the umbrella shape. If you're starting with a young tree, stake it to achieve an upright habit. (Once it's established, remove the stake.) If you have a Japanese maple with an upright form, look for dissimilar leaves and branches along the trunk and remove them. These are branches growing from the grafting stock. After removing these branches, you should decide whether you want your tree to have a single leader or be multi-stemmed. Most Japanese maples look more appealing as a multi-stemmed tree, but it's fine to grow it with a single leader. Establish one, three, or more leaders by removing any extra branches. Do not leave two leaders, as this can cause splitting. Continue to prune yearly, allowing the leaders to develop height and lateral branches.

The Macadamia genus has four different species of macadamia trees, two of which are mostly used for nut production. Native to Australia, this sub-tropical evergreen tree has a very limited range in the continental United States. While known for its delicious fruit, the tree is notoriously stingy when producing nuts, so unless you are prepared to plant multiple trees to cross-pollinate or take steps to ramp up production, the tree might be more suited as an ornamental or shade tree than a crop tree. Macadamia Tree Care No matter your tree's desired purpose, you will want to follow a certain set of guidelines to give your tree the best chance to thrive. Here is a brief list of key points to keep your macadamia tree happy and healthy: Provide your tree with full sun. Plant in regions with moist to wet conditions with at least 50 inches of rain annually. If looking to use it for nut production, choose a grafted plant to shorten the time to maturity. Amend your soil to reach a pH level of 5.5-6.5. Fertilize annually with low nitrogen, low phosphorus, and high potassium fertilizer once mature. Light When planting your macadamia tree, sun exposure is one of the biggest conditions to consider when choosing where to plant your tree. If planted in a spot that receives too little sun, this already slow-growing tree will suffer and not produce a tremendous amount of foliage. Later, when mature, produce fewer flowers and less fruit. To ensure you get the best growth out of your tree, plant it in a location that gets full sun. Soil While the macadamia is somewhat adaptable, a few things will help guarantee success when growing this relatively easy-to-maintain tropical evergreen. Test the acidity of your soil will ensure that you can amend the soil and fix its pH to achieve the macadamia's desired pH of 5.5-6.5. Once you know the soil's pH, look at the soil's moisture content, macadamia prefers wet to moist soil that is well draining. If the soil in the area you plan to plant is too moist, mix in plenty of perlite. Ultimately the ideal soil for your tree should be rich, moist, and well-draining. Water Macadamia trees are native to a region that receives at least 50 inches of rain annually, so the tree expects to get a good amount of water. This averages out to about 92 gallons of water during a hot week, which often occurs in the regions the macadamia grows. Irrigation is especially important during initial planting when the tree establishes itself, usually over the first one or two growing seasons and when it produces fruit. Temperature and Humidity Being a native to Australia, there are very few areas in the United States where the macadamia tree will grow outdoors successfully. The macadamia can also grow well in California, Southern Texas, Florida, and the Gulf Coast. It can thrive as long as the requirements of warm weather with a good amount of moisture are fulfilled. Macadamia trees are in hardy in USDA zones 9 and 11, but not all regions in these zones have high enough precipitation. Fertilizer Annual fertilizing is only recommended once the tree reaches maturity. Most often, this occurs within seven to ten years after planting. Fertilizing with low nitrogen, phosphorous, and high potassium formula is best. A 0-0-50 NPK formulation, such as sulfate of potash, is a good suggestion. Pruning Naturally macadamia trees will have a vase-shaped crown. This is perfect if you are using the tree ornamentally or for shade. If this is the case the only pruning needed will be maintenance pruning to remove dead, dying, and damaged branches annually. If you plan on using the tree for fruit production then you will want to start to prune the tree into a shape that will allow it to get the best amount of sun and airflow for the most abundant fruit production. When pruning, use sharp, clean pruning shears. In order to do this, step away from the tree and imagine a cone around it. Remove branches over the first few years to give your tree somewhat of a cone shape, remembering to never remove more than 1/3 of the tree's material within a single year. Types of Macadamia Tree There are four species of macadamia trees, countless hybrids between these four species, and a vast amount of commercially available cultivars and grafted selections. M. integrifolia: One of the two trees used in commercial production with sweet nuts, self-pollinating, and grows to about 50 feet. M. tetraphylla: One of the two trees used in commercial production with sweet nuts that grows to about 32 feet. M. ternifolia: A tree with a bitter nut on the vulnerable list that grows to a height of about 26 feet at a medium rate. M. jansenii: On the endangered list, it is critically endangered, with only 100 known trees in the wild. Propagating Macadamia Trees Propagating macadamia trees from cuttings is perfectly doable, it will not allow you to see your first crop for at least a decade. This also does not guarantee that the tree will produce abundant fruit or stay healthy enough on its rootstock to reach maturity. Most macadamia trees used for crop production are grafted onto a cultivar selected for heartiness to serve as rootstock. In taking a cutting, you lose the heartiness of the original rootstock. If still inclined to propagate, the best method would be by air layering, though the process is advanced. Common Problems with Macadamia Trees Generally, macadamia trees are easy to care for, with most issues coming not from disease or pests but rather from placement and conditions. If you give your tree the proper conditions, it will usually be happy, but here are some things to look out for: Deer and Rodents When the trees mature, one of the biggest issues will be unwanted wildlife eating your crop. The easiest way to avoid this is to be mindful of ripe fruit and watch for any macadamias that fall to the ground that may attract unwanted wildlife. Fungus Often caused by wounds from weed whackers or improperly cleaned pruning tools. The most common signs will be cankers or dark lesions. Macadamia is most susceptible to Anthracnose and Phytophthora ramorum.