herbs

Rosemary is great for an herb garden thanks to its fragrant and gentle nature. But like all evergreen shrubs, rosemary needs repeated pruning to help maintain the plant and keep it growing healthy. “With a plant like rosemary, whenever you make a cut above a leaf node, the plant will produce two new stems from that cut,” Annette Hird, gardener at Easy Urban Gardens, says. Hence, pruning rosemary helps the plant grow new leaves. But finding the right balance in terms of pruning is crucial. We chatted with an expert gardener to find out when, why, and how to prune rosemary. To keep this plant thriving in your herb garden, follow these helpful tips. Why Should You Prune Rosemary Plants? It’s important to prune rosemary because the plant can overgrow on one side, creating an uneven-looking shrub that leans woody in appearance. “Like any other perennial, rosemary benefits from pruning to keep the plant compact, bushy, and prevent it from becoming too woody,” Hird says. But also, pruning can encourage growth. Every time you cut above a leaf node, rosemary will produce more stems, resulting in an overall bigger and healthier plant. When Should You Prune Rosemary Plants? Rosemary responds best to pruning after it's done flowering. This can vary depending on your region and climate. Hird personally prunes her rosemary plants in early spring since they tend to flower over winter. However, it's important to not prune rosemary in late winter, especially during frost. This is because new growth needs some time to mature before winter snow. If the plant doesn’t harden in time, the plant will become too cold and could die from exposure. The safest time to prune is during the warmer months in summer. As long as you follow these general guidelines, you can prune your plant on and off throughout the year to use in recipes. “With it being an herb, you’re going to be snipping off sprigs at different times anyway,” Hird says. How to Prune Rosemary Plants Follow these steps to ensure you are pruning your rosemary plant right. Evaluate Plant Evaluate your plant’s overall look and determine where the plant is overgrowing. Then, Hird recommends cutting back any branches that are growing outside the general framework of the plant. Cut the overgrown areas of the plant, working your way around your rosemary to shape it as you like. Cut Away Damaged Areas While trimming, cut away broken or diseased sections of the plant. Just be sure to cut below the damaged areas. If you cut into the wood of the plant, these areas will not grow back, and you will be doing more harm than good. Help Its Growth If your goal is to make your plant smaller, this is the time to cut the taller sections of the plant. “For tall upright branches, cut them back by about a third to reduce the height,” Hird says. It's important to cut back a set of leaves or growth points since this helps with the continued growth. For branches that you haven’t cut, remove a short section above a leaf node. This will again encourage more growth later. How to Prune Young Rosemary Plants Still in their early growth stages, younger rosemary plants can easily be shaped into topiaries or trimmed lightly to encourage faster growth. Prune After Flowering Prune your rosemary in spring to early summer after it flowers. You don’t want to prune the plant too early because this could cause undue stress on the plant, as it's actively maturing. Cut Above the Leaf Node Be sure to cut just above a leaf node. “This is known as tip pruning. You just snip off the very tips of each branch to promote new growth,” Hird says. Shape Plants It's easy to shape younger rosemary plants into topiary spheres or hedges. If you like to shape your rosemary shrub, prune the stems a bit shorter until the plant takes the shape you want. Preserve Some Cuttings Save a few cuttings if you would like to propagate more rosemary plants. Younger rosemary plants, not older ones, are the easiest to propagate, as they are already actively growing all the time. Dip the cut end into a rooting hormone and plant the rosemary cutting in a pot to root. Use Rosemary Alternatively, if you don’t wish to plant more rosemary, this would be a great time to sample the plant in your recipes. Young, tender rosemary stems tend to be the most flavorful, adding the sweetest flavors to your dishes if you cut the sprigs of rosemary early in its life.

With bright green leaves and a refreshing flavor, parsley is a must-grow herb. If you want to keep plants productive and healthy, know how to harvest parsley and avoid overharvesting, which can cause plant stress and impaired growth. Whether you grow parsley from seeds or nursery starts, this guide will help you time your parsley harvest to perfection. Learn how to harvest parsley the right way to keep your plants healthy and your kitchen brimming with fresh herbs. When to Harvest Parsley Parsley is typically harvested from spring through fall either as a cut-and-come-again herb or in larger quantities for freezing or drying. However, if plants are grown indoors in pots, parsley can be harvested in winter, too. Fast-growing and adaptable, parsley can be kept in container gardens or larger herb beds and harvested just 70 days after sowing parsley seeds—nursery-started plants can be picked even earlier. Note that harvesting parsley too early can be detrimental to plant health, so it’s best to wait until plants are at least 6” tall and have well-formed leaves with at least 3 leaf segments before harvesting. Want more gardening tips? Sign up for our free gardening newsletter for our best-growing tips, troubleshooting hacks, and more! How to Harvest Parsley the Right Way Harvest parsley in the morning. Parsley can technically be harvested at any time of the day, but if you want to get the best flavor out of your plants, pick parsley in the morning before the sun is high overhead. Parsley leaves contain the highest concentration of flavorful oils at this time of the day. Cut or pinch entire stems. Gather the parsley stems you’d like to harvest with one hand and cut or pinch the entire stems off just above the soil line with your fingers or a sharp pair of kitchen shears. Harvesting the entire stem will rejuvenate plants and encourage new growth. Work around the exterior of the plant. Parsley plants produce new leaves towards the center of the plant, so harvest the leaves around the exterior of the plant first. This will refresh the look of your parsley and prevent older leaves from going to waste. Don’t overharvest. Young parsley plants should be harvested sparingly by clipping off just a few stems at a time. Older plants, on the other hand, can be picked a bit more aggressively, but avoid harvesting more than 1/3 of your plant at once. Repeat. Parsley is a fast-growing herb that can be harvested again and again throughout the season as needed for recipes. Established plants can be harvested daily in small quantities, but it’s best to give plants a week or two to recover in between harvests if you gather a lot of parsley stems at once or harvest from young plants. Remember, frequent harvesting encourages parsley plants to produce even more leaves. How to Keep Parsley Growing for Years Parsley is a biennial herb that only grows for two years even with the best of care. As a result, many gardeners grow parsley as an annual and sow new parsley seeds every spring. But, parsley plants can be overwintered and harvested in the spring of their second year if desired. If you’d like to harvest second-year parsley plants, overwinter your parsley indoors or harvest your plants in early fall before the stems die back in cold weather. Outdoor parsley will lie dormant in gardens through winter and begin to grow new leaves in spring, while indoor plants can continue to grow through the winter months. Once parsley starts to produce new leaves in spring, harvest the stems regularly until the plant starts to bolt or flower. When flowering begins, it’s best to harvest the entire plant as bolting changes the flavor of parsley leaves. But if you want to gather parsley seeds for future planting, let your plants flower and gather the dried seeds when the parsley flowers fade.

Purple basil is a striking natural variety of green basil. Unlike Thai basil or cinnamon basil, it does not so much stand out by a different taste as by the color of its leaves. With its vibrant foliage, purple basil is a unique addition to any herb garden. The best way to use purple basil in the kitchen is as a garnish for dishes, rather than processing it for pesto or cooking with it, as the color is the most distinct when the leaves are fresh. What Is Purple Basil? Purple variations of Ocimum basilicum range in color from light red to deep purple. The varieties of purple basil offered by nurseries and seed companies today resulted from extensive breeding of purple basil varieties over many years. Purple basil tends to crossbreed and despite plant breeders’ best efforts, the desirable genetic traits of basil, namely the leaf color, are often unstable and get lost over time. Be prepared to see some variation in the plants, even in those from the same seed packet. 8 Varieties of Purple Basil Purple basils vary in height, leaf color and shape, and intensity of aroma. Some types are open-pollinated, which means that you can collect the seeds, and others are hybrids (marked as F1 in seed catalogs). The seeds from those plants are not worth saving because they won’t produce plants that are true to the parent. Varieties of purple basil include: ‘Dark Opal’ (12-18 inches tall) is a popular cultivar that has been around for a long time—it was an All-American Selection (AAS) winner in 1962. It has violet-purple leaves with a hint of licorice. The flowers are pink. In university trials, it has shown resistance to downy mildew. ‘Purple Ruffles’ (18-24 inches tall) stands out by its large, glossy, dark purple leaves that are ruffled and fringed. This is the second purple basil that became an All-America Selection winner though it does not have the same assertive anise fragrance as ‘Dark Opal’. The flowers are light lavender with a dark fuchsia throat. ‘Red Rubin’ (18-20 in. tall) is a newer, improved version of ‘Dark Opal’ with more uniformly colored leaves. The burgundy-red leaves have a traditional sweet basil flavor and aroma. The flowers are a beautiful lavender-purple color. ‘Amethyst’ (16-20 inches tall) is the darkest purple basil variety available with almost black stems and foliage. The leaves are turned downwards and have an intense basil flavor. The flowers are purple. It is also available as the cultivar ‘Amethyst Improved’. ‘Prospera Red’ (18-24 in. tall) features large (3-inch), gently cupped dark purple leaves similar to ‘Amethyst’ with a flavor of Genovese basil. The plant has an upright growth habit. It is a hybrid with resistance to downy mildew and Fusarium wilt. ‘Deep Purple’ (12-18 in. tall) has vibrant dark purple leaves with sweet basil flavor and a low rate of green off-foliage. Its uniform, upright growth habit makes it a favorite for containers. ‘Purple Ball’ (12 in. tall) is ideal for small spaces and containers with its compact, tidy, round growth habit. It forms a dense ball of small, purple-plum leaves that are fragrant and aromatic. ‘Rosie’ (12-18 in.) grows strong, upright stems, which makes it easy to harvest and ideal for bouquets it’s especially pretty with its tall lavender flower spikes. The leaves have an intense dark purple-red color with a mild and aromatic basil flavor. ‘Rosie’ has no to little green off-foliage. How to Grow Purple Basil Growing purple basis is very similar to taking care of green basil, whether you plant it in your garden or in pots (and if you have a sunny window, you can even grow it indoors). Since purple basil comes in different heights, make sure to give your plants sufficient space. Crowded conditions lead to insect and disease issues such as aphids and powdery mildew. If you start purple basil from seed, you will need to thin out the seedlings. The seed package will specify the proper spacing for the variety. Light Purple basil needs six to eight hours of full sun every day. Ample sunlight not only ensures that the leaves will be purple but also healthier, stronger plants with fewer disease problems. Soil The soil for purple basil should be moist, rich, and well-draining. If the soil is lacking these qualities, amend it with compost before planting. Organic matter not only adds nutrients but also helps to retain soil moisture. Water Keeping your purple basil well-watered at all times is key—it is not an herb that tolerates drought. Water slowly but deeply in the absence of rain whenever the top inch of soil feels dry. Use mulch around the plant base to keep moisture in. Temperature and Humidity Like green basil, purple basil needs heat to thrive. Don't plant it until the daytime temperatures remain in the 70s and nighttime temperatures are above 50°F. Basil is very sensitive to cold, which blackens its leaves. Fertilizer Unless you are growing purple basil purely as an ornamental and don’t cut it regularly, you need to fertilize the plant frequently. Use an organic slow-release vegetable fertilizer and scatter the granules around the plant base, avoiding the stem. For faster results, feed it with a liquid organic fertilizer such as fish emulsion. Follow the label directions for the frequency of applications and amounts. Harvesting You can start harvesting basil leaves as soon as the plants reach 6 to 8 inches in height. Pick the leaves regularly to keep the foliage growing. Always start harvesting basil leaves from the top of the plant and not the bottom. The flowers of purple basil are edible too. In addition to using them as a garnish, they also make a gorgeous magenta-colored vinegar.

While its feathery foliage has a delicate appearance, dill is easy to grow and care for, and is an excellent addition to any garden. In addition to providing bright, fresh flavor for your dishes, dill plants also attract a host of beneficial insects such as ladybugs, green lacewings, and syrphid flies—all of which prey on aphids. To keep your dill plant happy and healthy, it's important to regularly prune it. This will will help it grow bushier and fuller, promote new grow, and ultimately lead to a more abundant dill harvest. Before You Get Started No matter what method you use to prune your dill plant, it's important to keep these guidelines in mind. Wait for the dill plant to have at least five leaves or until the plant is at least six inches tall, somewhere between four to eight weeks after planting. As with other herbs, you should never trim more than one third of the entire plant. To prevent over-pruning, allow the plant to recover and regrow to its previous size before pruning again. If you prune down a stem without leaving any fronds (leaf sets), the stem will not grow more dill. If you want the dill plant to continue growing its green foliage, pinch off any flower buds that form. Flowering is a sign that the plant is ready to reproduce and nearing the end of its life. Every part of the dill plant is edible, including the seeds, stems, and flowers. How to Prune Dill for Growth If you're growing dill to use in your kitchen, pruning the plant can play a vital role in its yield. Regularly pruning away leaves from the top of the plant will encourage bushier growth—and give you fresh herbs to cook with. I've found this is the best method to use for a bountiful dill harvest you can enjoy all season long. I follow this process when I need a few leaves to garnish a dish or salad with. I just run out back to my vegetable garden, pluck off a small handful of dill leaves, and bring them back into the kitchen to finish up. Find a tender stem with mature growth. Follow the tops of the fronds (dill leaves) to the previous leaf set. You'll want to prune right above it, leaving some leaves in tact for the stem to continue to produce leaves. Using a clean pair of pruning shears, snip off the dill leaves from that top part of the stem. You can also use your thumb and forefinger to pinch the leaves off. How to Prune Dill for Storage If your goal is to harvest large amounts of dill for drying, freezing, or preserving, then you'll want to prune away much of the dill plant. Because the goal is no longer to encourage growth, you can cut the leaves, stems, and all. Dill is an annual plant and will need to be replanted the following year. This is the pruning method I follow at the end of the growing season, when the dill plant is lush and full but doesn't have flowers blooming yet. Spray the dill plant with water one day before harvesting it. This will help clear it of dirt and ensure the plant has moisture for the freshest harvest possible. Using a pair of scissors or pruning shears, cut it at the base of the stem, pruning the whole plant away. Place the stems in a glass of water like you would flowers. If you plan to dry the dill, combine the dill stems into small bundles and hang them upside down to dry for one to two weeks. How to Prune Dill for Seed-Saving If you are growing a dill plant for its seeds, then you need to allow the plant to flower in order to harvest them. You can increase your seed crop by selectively pruning the leaves, forcing the plant to send all nutrients and energy to the seed-producing flowers. In order to collect seeds, you want to encourage the dill plant to flower. Regularly prune the top leaves, making sure to leave the main stems intact. Wait for your dill plant to start producing small yellow flowers. Allow the flowers to fully mature. The seeds are ready to be harvested when the follows are brown and completely dried on the plant. To collect the seeds, secure a paper bag over the flower heads and shake them. Once you are finished harvesting seeds, trim back the stems that held the flowers.

Love or hate the taste, cilantro is a popular addition to many cuisines. If you're growing cilantro you have probably had the problem of it bolting easily, which simply means that the plant sends up a flower stalk and goes to seed. Since cilantro is a cool-season herb, warming temperatures will signal to the plant that it's time to flower and go to seed rather than continue producing leaves. It's very sensitive to warmer temperatures, so if you're seeing signs of flowering, that's likely why. Bolting is the plant is doing what comes naturally, but you can slowly down the bolting with these some growing tips. Learn more ahead about cilantro bolting. Why Does Cilantro Bolt? Cilantro (Coriandrum sativum) is a short-lived annual, cool-season herb.1 Once temperatures begin to rise and reach the 70s, the plant responds by bolting (flowering and going to seed) as a way to continue its life cycle. Producing seeds means that the species has a chance for another crop. 6 Ways to Keep Cilantro from Bolting While it can be difficult to stop cilantro from bolting, there are some ways to extend the life of the plant before it goes to seed and dies. Keep it Cool Whether you are growing cilantro in the garden or indoors in containers, temperature is a huge factor in how long the plant will last before it bolts. You can extend the harvest season by planting it in the early spring and fall when day and nighttime temperatures or lower. If growing cilantro indoors keep the plants around 70 degrees or lower. Control the Sunlight Cilantro needs only about six hours of bright sunlight. Select an indoor or outdoor spot that doesn't receive high-noon heat. Lighting for indoor pots of cilantro is easily controlled with grow lights. If planting outdoors in a hot climate, consider placing the plants where they can receive some afternoon shade. Too much heat from direct sun can cause the plant to bolt early. Water Regularly Plants that receive too much or too little water are placed under stress. To survive the stress, the plant bolts to produce some seed to extend the species. Whether growing in containers or the ground, keep the soil evenly moist but be sure the roots are never waterlogged. Pinch or Prune Often For new plants, once they reach about six inches tall pinch back the tips. Harvest or prune the leaves often (once a week) to remove damaged growth, yellowing leaves, or flowers that form. Practice Succession Planting This tip doesn't stop cilantro plants from bolting but it does help you keep tender, tasty cilantro on hand. Wait two to three weeks between each time you start seeds or plant new cilantro seedlings. This is called succession planting or planting the same crop several times during the growing season. Choose Slow-Bolting Cultivars There are cilantro cultivars that are less prone to bolting. Look for seedlings or seed packets that are described as bolt-resistant, heat-tolerant, or long-standing. Three choices are ‘Calypso’, ‘Slo Bolt’, and 'Leisure'. These cultivars are usually less sensitive to heat and can produce good-tasting foliage a bit longer into the growing season. Why Bolted Plants Can Actually Be Beneficial While it is disappointing to see a plant bolt and die, there are benefits to the natural process of bolting. The flowers that form will help attract much-needed pollinators to your garden. Many plants produce edible seeds after bolting that add flavor to prepared foods. The most beneficial effect of bolting is the production of seeds that can be saved to grow new plants. Backyard gardeners and commercial farmers have long known the value of allowing some plants to "go to seed" to maintain the longevity of a plant species.

Companion planting herbs allows plants to deter pests, enhance pollination, and improve soil health, Daniel Powers, founder of The Botanical Institute, says. It also leads to a lusher and a more aromatic garden all season long, “As long as you pay attention to plant families, the size of your chosen herbs, their heat tolerance and sun requirements, and if they are annual or perennial, you can mix and match according to your preferred flavors, garden space and climate,” Tanja Eskildsen, an adaptation gardener and owner of the seed shop, Perennial Vegetables, says. To find out what herbs can be planted together, read on to learn about 14 possible herb combinations. Herbs That Can Be Planted Together Chives and Parsley Some herbs when grown together can boost each other’s flavor. Planting chives near parsley, for example, can improve parsley’s overall taste, as chives offer a more pungent tang to parsley. Powers explains how chives also help repel aphids and beetles which will benefit delicate parsley plants. Want more gardening tips? Sign up for our free gardening newsletter for our best-growing tips, troubleshooting hacks, and more! Lavender and Rosemary Lavender and rosemary offer splendid blooms and love the same growing conditions: full sun and well-drained soil. So, growing these plants together is ideal because you won't need to worry about having to complete two different growing methods. Meanwhile, the pretty flowers usher in a pop of color to your garden. Basil and Oregano According to Powers, both plants can keep away pests. Basil can help repel mosquitoes, spider mites, and aphids. While oregano also has a strong scent that keeps pests away. “Both plants enjoy similar growing conditions too,” Powers says. Chives and Rosemary Sometimes herbs should be planted together because they have different root depths. This includes chives and rosemary, Powers says. By having differing root depths, both plants won't need to compete for resources like water. Sage and Thyme Thyme is a good companion plant with almost all herbs, but especially sage because both prefer less water. Thyme likes fast-draining soil whereas sage prefers drought-like conditions. Lavender and Sage Both plants prefer dry and sunny growing conditions, which is perfect because not many herbs thrive in hot climates and handle less water, Eskildsen explains. At the same time, lavender can also help repel animals such as deer and rabbits that like to nibble on sage, making these two plants even better for each other. Marjoram and Basil Occasionally, one plant might support the other more. Marjoram, for example, can improve the flavor and growth of basil, Powers says. Marjoram is a herb with a sweet citrus smell and taste, so growing it next to basil can make basil taste a bit sweeter. However, both herbs can create a more aromatic environment in a common vegetable garden, discouraging pests in the process. Thus, either plant can make a great addition to the garden. Cilantro and Dill Cilantro and dill can both attract beneficial insects like pollinators and predatory insects that control pest populations for each other, Powers says. For example, hoverflies are drawn to cilantro, and their larvae eat aphids, a common antagonist in any healthy garden. Parsley and Chervil Parsley, a flowering herb, and chervil, a member of the parsley family, are good garden companions because they like similar growing conditions. “Parsley can help enhance chervil’s growth and flavor, as they enjoy similar light and water conditions,” Powers says. Thyme and Rosemary Thyme and rosemary, both Mediterranean plants, thrive in dry, well-drained soil. Being planted together can help create a microclimate that suits their needs, Powers says. Not to mention, thyme repels cabbage worms and other pests of common garden plants. Dill and Chives Chives, like onions, have a pungent smell and taste, which repels pests like aphids, a common garden bug. Meanwhile, dill’s yellow flowers will draw in pollinators like butterflies and bees to your garden. Together, these herbs make a great team repelling and attracting different insects to your garden. Tarragon and Oregano Tarragon and oregano are both herbs with dainty flowers that offer lots of aroma. While both are indeed aesthetically pleasing, these two plants also prefer the same sun exposure and soil conditions, making them great companion plants in the garden. “These two plants can also benefit from each other’s presence by repelling a variety of pests due to their strong scents,” Powers says. Garlic and Rosemary Rosemary strengthens garlic’s flavor. Not to mention, both herbs also have a strong scent that deters many garden pests. These herbs also require the same soil conditions, so there's no need to maintain the plants in different flower beds. Since garlic loves sunshine and less water, rosemary makes for a great companion plant because it can quickly adapt and thrive. Marjoram and Chives Approximating the smell and appearance of green onions, chives have smaller flowers and leaves. This means they need less space in the garden while their strong odor repels many pests from the rest of your garden plants. Meanwhile, the citrus flavor of marjoram subtly sweetens the chives’ flavor. What Herbs Shouldn’t Be Planted Together Mint and most garden plants: According to Powers, mint can be incredibly invasive and can quickly overtake neighboring plants, robbing them of space, nutrients, and water. If you choose to grow mint, keep it in a separate container. Fennel and most herbs: Fennel is unfriendly to most other plants because it secretes a substance that can inhibit the growth of other plants around it, Powers says. It’s best to plant this herb away from others. Cilantro and Tarragon: These herbs prefer different growing conditions. For example, cilantro likes cooler temperatures and can flower quickly in warmer weather, while tarragon thrives in warm, dry conditions, Powers says. Planting these herbs together can make it difficult to keep each herb happy. Basil and Sage: These plants prefer different soil conditions. Basil loves moist soil and more frequent watering, while sage prefers well-drained, drier soil. Powers explains. Growing these together makes it so neither receives its optimal growing conditions. Peppermint and Parsley: Peppermint, like mint, tends to take over with a sprawling root system. This is why peppermint can overwhelm parsley, a single-root plant. Lemon balm and most garden plants: According to Eskildsen, lemon balm is an aggressive grower and will dominate a space. Additional Tips for a Thriving Herb Garden Know the Final Size of Your Herbs Some herbs grow into tall bushes and others stay low to the ground, Eskildsen says. Eskildsen recommends planting your tallest herbs in the background and the smaller ones in front or around it. This will help make sure each plant has enough light and make harvesting a lot easier. Identify If It's an Annual or Perennial “Some herbs you only need to plant once and others you plant every season,” Eskildsen says. To help organize your herb garden, it’s good to know if your herbs will grow in the same spot for many years or only one season, meaning it will have to be switched out for another herb eventually. Mix Shade and Sun-Loving Plants Appropriately Eskildsen explains how sun-loving and shade-tolerant plants grow well together as long as you plant the shade-tolerant plants under a taller sun-loving plant. “The foliage of the taller herb will gently shade the herb underneath allowing you maximum use of garden space," Eskildsen says.

Basil is a beloved herb and an essential ingredient in every season. But is it possible to keep this plant as a perennial and enjoy its tasty leaves year after year? If you live in USDA hardiness zones 10 and 11, you could count on sweet basil as a perennial herb. For the rest of the country, it is considered an annual and will not come back the next year. However, with some planning, you can have fresh sweet basil at hand, whether you grow it indoors or ensure it reseeds in your garden. Ahead, learn more about growing basil year-round. Is Basil a Perennial? Sweet basil (Ocimum basiiicum L.), is not a perennial except in USDA hardiness zones 10 and 11. The same facts apply to other types of basil like Thai basil and spicy cinnamon basil. How to Make the Most of Your Basil Harvest If you want to keep fresh basil on hand year-round, follow these tips to make the most of your basil harvest. Grow basil indoors. If you live in a cool climate, keep basil available by growing it indoors in pots year-round. Protect the basil plants. To extend an outdoor growing season, protect the plants from late or early frosts by using row covers or individual plant protectors. A glass jar or plastic milk container will protect the plants at night but should be removed the next morning. Stagger plantings. If growing basil from seed, stagger the sowing dates so the seeds germinate at least two weeks apart. If using nursery seedlings, purchase and plant about two weeks apart to extend the season. Remove basil flowers. If flowers form on the basil stems, pinch them off immediately. The energy of the plant should go into producing more and larger leaves, not flowers that become seeds. Harvest frequently.Regular removal of basil leaves will encourage the plant to branch out and sprout more leaves throughout the season. Freeze extra leaves. To freeze fresh basil leaves, blanch them in boiling water for 30 seconds, pat them dry, and freeze flat on a parchment-lined baking sheet. Store the frozen leaves in airtight containers in the freezer. Dry extra leaves. Use a dehydrator, oven, or microwave to dry basil leaves quickly. Once dry, crumble the leaves and store them in airtight containers. How to Grow Basil Year-Round Unless you live in USDA hardiness zones 10 or 11, you will need to either grow basil indoors or do a combination of outdoor gardening and indoor containers. For outdoor plants, plant seedlings in the ground or containers in the spring once the last chance of frost has passed. You can get a head start on harvesting by starting seeds or seedlings indoors while the weather is still cool. To grow indoors, you can start with seed, seedlings, or stem cuttings. Most indoor basil plants produce for about one year if maintained properly. Indoor basil containers need regular watering and plenty of bright light to thrive. A grow light is a great way to keep basil healthy if you don't have a sunny window. How to Grow Basil as a Perennial Annual basil plants in the garden will often self-sow if you don’t pinch back their flowers. You may be lucky enough to find some new seedlings in the garden in the spring if the weather cooperates. However, not all seeds germinate and the new seedlings will also be annuals. So, you can replant or move to a warmer climate if you'd like to be sure basil continues to come back every year. If you are living in a semi-tropical area, basil seeds can be planted in early spring or fall in moist but well-drained soil. The plants are sensitive to frost and the leaves of many varieties will turn black and drop off the plant when temperatures drop below 40°F. To save seeds from basil, leave the flowers on the plant until they die, allowing the seeds to turn brown and dry. Separate the seed from the seed capsules and store them in a cool place in a well-sealed container to replenish your crop.

As far as herb gardens go, rosemary is a wonderful addition. It looks beautiful and has a huge variety of handy uses. While many home gardeners will start with a small rosemary plant or cuttings, it’s also possible to grow rosemary from seed. It might take some patience and multiple attempts, but it's also wildly rewarding, as well as a great way to add some height and beauty to your outdoor garden. Learn how to start a rosemary plant from seed, as told by a gardening expert. How to Start Rosemary Seeds As Denise Pizzini, the owner of Damsel Garden, points out, growing rosemary is very doable. Just keep in mind, if you’re a beginner, it might require some trial and error—or at the very least, some patience. Start Indoors To begin, start your rosemary indoors. If you live in a region known for cold winters, Pizzini suggests growing in containers so you can bring your plants indoors when the temps drop. This is because rosemary is native to the Mediterranean, so it does best in warmer climates. “We start ours in open flats at least 10-12 weeks before planting outside, after the danger of frost has passed,” Pizzini says. Place Seeds Evenly Using quality germination mix and a small tray with drainage holes, Pizzini says the soil should be moist (but not soggy) to start. Press seeds into place evenly as opposed to poking a deep hole, she says. This is so you can easily transport your seedlings into a larger container, but also because rosemary seeds need light to germinate. This means you should cover the seeds lightly with soil or not at all. Wait 14-21 Days Once your seeds are planted, Pizzini says to mist the seeds to help them make better contact with the soil. From here, germination should take place within two to three weeks. Transplanting Rosemary Outdoors Once you’ve nurtured your seeds into seedlings, it’s almost time to transport them. Pizzini says the key here is to wait until they have at least four true leaves—then, they’re ready to be put into pots. While you could attempt to keep your rosemary inside, Pizzini says mature rosemary is best grown outdoors—but that doesn’t mean it requires a ton of space. "Your container rosemary will thrive in a sunny window if you keep soil evenly moist,” she says. 5 Tips for Growing Rosemary from Seed Give your rosemary lots of light. When you’re just getting started, Pizzini says plastic domes can be extremely useful for germinating your rosemary seeds. It helps to keep moisture levels even while you wait for seeds to wake up, she says. Once your seeds have germinated, remove the dome to avoid dampening off. Feed and water accordingly. Pizzini says rosemary isn’t the plant you want to overwater or overfeed. Striking an even balance here is the best way to keep your plant’s roots healthy and happy. Use the right soil. Rosemary can also be sensitive to soil types. It likes loamy soil, so make sure your container mix is not heavy and offers good drainage, Pizzini says. Mimic Mother Nature. Before moving your seedlings, Pizzini says you can help your seedlings adjust to fluctuating temperatures by mimicking nature. Place them in the direct sun and ensure they get 8 hours of shade, too, just like they would outside. Mist or bottom water. Because rosemary doesn’t do well when overwatered, Pizzini suggests misting or bottom watering your plants using a bottom tray. This will help you avoid displacing seeds. Maintenance Tips for Your Rosemary Plant Once your seedlings are strong and ready, it's time to transfer and keep them happy. Pizzini suggests spacing multiple rosemary plants at least one foot apart and avoiding over-watering. Rosemary can be sensitive—it loves careful watering and a lot of sunlight. Wait patiently. It takes 85-90 days to get young, tender tips for your culinary needs and 120-180 days if you want to harvest and make bunches.

Dill is a popular herb to toss in various dishes, but dill plants can also do well in the garden. Dill is an excellent companion plant for certain herbs and vegetables, such as basil and broccoli, as well as flowers like marigolds. This guide will help you use this versatile herb to benefit plants in your garden. Here are 12 dill companion plants to help cultivate a healthy and productive garden. Benefits of Companion Planting Companion planting is a tried-and-true gardening technique that can boost the health of certain crops when planted together. Some plants can attract pollinators like wasps and repel pests like cabbage worms and moths. Additionally, while most plants absorb nutrients from the soil, some do the opposite. Bush beans, for instance, send nitrogen back into the earth to benefit neighboring plants, and chamomile can release chemicals that boost growth and even flavor in nearby plants. Dill is a great companion plant for numerous herbs and vegetables primarily for its relationship with good and bad insects. Dill plants can attract pollinators like honeybees and ladybugs to your garden, as well as deter harmful insects like aphids and spider mites. Additionally, dill has shallow roots and narrow stems that can easily fit between larger plants like Brussels sprouts to help you save space in your garden. Corn Insects like cutworms and earworms can threaten mature corn. Dill has an intense fragrance that attracts various insects like ladybugs and hoverflies. These beneficial bugs happen to prey on corn's harmful pests, making flowering dill plants an excellent companion for established corn.1 Experts recommend growing dill on the ends of corn rows, roughly one foot away from the nearest corn stalk. Name: Corn (Zea mays) USDA Hardiness Zones: 2-11 Light: Full sun Soil: Loamy, well-drained, acidic, neutral Asparagus For many crops, aphids are always on the prowl, looking to gobble up your plants before you have the chance. Asparagus is among these vulnerable veggies. Fortunately, dill seeds attract both lacewings and ladybugs, which enjoy snacking on aphids.1 Additionally, companion planting with asparagus and dill is a great way to maximize growing space and ensure an even distribution of nutrients. Name: Asparagus (Asparagus officinalis) USDA Hardiness Zones: 2-9 Light: Full sun Soil: Sandy, loamy, neutral acidic Basil Dill and basil are great companion plants, because of their many similarities. Not only do they benefit from similar soil components, but they also attract many of the same beneficial insects and deter destructive pests.1 Companion Planting. Franklin Park Conservatory and Botanical Gardens. If you're building an herb garden, be sure to plant basil nearby. Name: Basil (Ocimum basilicum) USDA Hardiness Zones: 10-11 Light: Full sun Soil: Moist, rich, well-draining, acidic to alkaline Deer Resistant: Yes Tip Other herbs like coriander, parsley, and chervil also make great dill companion plants. Broccoli Brassica vegetables include broccoli, cauliflower, kale, cabbage, Brussels sprouts, turnips, and more, many of which make great dill companion plants. Dill can help deter destructive insects like cabbage moths, cabbage loopers, and cabbage worms, all of which enjoy munching on brassica vegetables like broccoli.2 Name: Broccoli (Brassica oleracea var. italica) USDA Hardiness Zones: 2-11 Light: Full sun Soil: Moist, loamy, well-drained, acidic, neutral Marigold Dill can help repel a variety of pesky insects, but it is not immune to damage from certain bugs like caterpillars and slugs. Fortunately, there are certain plants that can ward off these critters, including marigolds.2 Marigolds are considered one of the best companion plants, pairing perfectly with onions, squash, cucumber, and more. Name: Marigold (Tagetes spp.) USDA Hardiness Zones: 2-11 Light: Full sun Soil: Evenly moist, well-drained, slightly acidic to neutral Lettuce Some sources argue that leafy vegetables like lettuce are the best dill companion plant of all.1 Not only is lettuce a primary target of many garden pests, but it has a short growing cycle, so you can harvest and replant your lettuce, spinach, and Swiss chard as the dill grows. Name: Lettuce (Lactuca sativa) USDA Hardiness Zones: 2-11 Light: Full sun to partial sun Soil: Loamy, rich, well-drained, acidic, neutral Onion Aphids tend to avoid the intense fragrance that accompanies dill, but that doesn't mean dill is protected from the threat of this common garden pest. Many avid gardeners recommend planting onions and dill together because the combination of these strong aromas offers an even better barrier against bugs like aphids.21 Name:Onion (Allim cepa) USDA Hardiness Zones: 4-9 Light: Full sun Soil: Loamy, well-drained, neutral Beans Like dill, beans are a great companion plant, because of the benefits they offer neighboring plants. Specifically, the roots of bean plants attract nitrogen, which benefits the surrounding plants. In exchange, dill keeps away common garden pests that threaten to destroy growing bean plants.2 Name: Common bean, green bean, etc. (Phaseolus vulgaris) USDA Hardiness Zones: 2-11 Light: Full sun Soil: Loamy, moist, well-drained, acidic Nasturtium Like marigolds, nasturtiums can be an excellent dill companion plant and benefit a number of other popular garden herbs and veggies. Just as onions and dill work together to repel aphids, nasturtium can protect garden crops by doubling dill's efforts. This popular companion plant attracts pollinators as well as predatory insects, making it a great addition to most garden beds.1 Name: Nasturtium (Tropaeolum spp.) USDA Hardiness Zones: 2-11 Light: Full sun Soil: Moist but well-drained, acidic, neutral, alkaline Chives Like onions, chives have an intense fragrance that can deter aphids, making dill and chives a great pest-fighting team. Chives will not only help dill deter this destructive garden critter, but it also repels other garden pests like spider mites. Together, chives and dill attract pollinators to foster health for neighboring plants.2 Name: Chives (Allium schoenoprasum) USDA Hardiness Zones: 4-8 Light: Full sun to light shade Soil: Loamy, sandy, slightly acidic to neutral Tip Some sources say planting dill near alliums like garlic, chives, onions, and leeks can help enhance their flavor.2 Zucchini Zucchini and other squash plants tend to grow big and bushy, so not every popular companion plant pairs well with these leafy giants. Fortunately, dill is thin and frond-like, so it won't clash with the squash plant's leaves or block sunshine. Additionally, zucchini and squash are particularly susceptible to pests like squash beetles and flea beetles, but dill plants offer an effective line of defense by attracting predatory insects.2 Name: Zucchini (Cucurbita pepo) USDA Hardiness Zones: 3-11 Light: Full sun Soil: Rich, loamy, moist Cucumber Dill and cucumber are another great pair in both the kitchen as well as the garden. Cucumber beetles are a major threat to cucumbers, but fortunately, dill can help. Dill plants attract ladybugs, parasitic wasps, and green lacewings, all of which love to feast on cucumber beetles.3 Name: Cucumber (Cucumis sativus) USDA Hardiness Zones: 2-11 Light: Full sun to partial shade Soil: Rich, well-draining, acidic to neutral Plants You Shouldn't Grow With Dill Although dill can be a beneficial companion plant for a wide variety of vegetables, herbs, and even flowers, not every plant will interact well with dill plants. Here are a few plants you should avoid growing near dill: Carrots: Avoid planting dill and carrots together, as the pair are members of the same plant family and can cross-pollinate. This is also true of celery, cilantro, caraway, and more.2 Peppers: Peppers, and other nightshades like eggplant and even tomatoes, are not the best companion plant for dill, because they consume the same type of nutrients, which may stunt your plants' growth.2 Lavender: Lavender and dill are not great companion plants, since both have different soil requirements. Dill prefers moist soil, while lavender likes its soil to dry between watering.45 Potatoes: Dill grows quickly and sometimes blocks light from reaching other growing plants like potatoes, which can stunt their growth.

Growing perennial herbs is a savvy way to save money in the garden and make gardening chores a lot easier. However, keeping track of the herbs that are actually perennials can be a bit of a challenge since many perennial herb plants are commonly treated like annuals in cold climates. To help you out, we’ve compiled a list of popular perennial herbs below, including a selection of the most cold hardy plants that can survive winters in the chilliest gardens. What Are Perennial Herbs? Perennial herbs are relatively long-lived plants that take more than 2 years to complete their life cycle. These plants are winter hardy in their native habitat and often get quite large as they mature. Many of our most popular culinary herbs are technically perennials, including most mints and woody-stemmed herbs like lavender. Want more gardening tips? Sign up for our free gardening newsletter for our best growing tips, troubleshooting hacks, and more! What Are Annual Herbs? Herbs that are true annuals often have tender stems and a fast growth rate and they complete their entire life cycle in less than a year. That means that if you plant annual herb seeds in spring, you can expect your plants to reach their mature size, flower, and produce seeds all before they die back in fall. Dill, cilantro, and other herbs in the carrot family fall into this category; however, many perennial herbs are treated like annuals when they’re planted outside of their hardiness zone. Perennial vs. Tender Perennial Herbs Although tender perennial herbs are technically perennial plants, tender herbs are sensitive to the cold and they don’t survive winters in chilly climates. Most growers cultivate tender perennial herbs, like basil, as annuals and allow their plants to die back in fall. However, cold-sensitive herbs can be kept alive for years by overwintering them indoors or in a heated greenhouse. If you want to grow perennial herbs with minimal effort and don’t want to bother with overwintering plants indoors, select herbs that are winter hardy in your growing zone. Many cold tolerant, perennial herbs can be cultivated outdoors year round without winter protection—and some can even be harvested when they’re covered in snow. Common Perennial Herbs From apple mint to winter savory, there are many perennial herbs to choose from. But just because herbs are perennials, doesn’t mean they’ll necessarily grow perennially in your area. Before planting any of the following herbs in your garden, doublecheck their hardiness zone to make sure they can survive winters in your garden. Anise Hyssop Apple Mint Bay Laurel Bee Balm Bronze Fennel Catnip Chives Chocolate Mint French Tarragon Garlic Chives Lavender Lemon Balm Lemon Thyme Lemon Verbena Lovage Marjoram Mountain Mint Oregano Peppermint Pineapple Sage Roman Chamomile Rosemary Sage Salad Burnet Shiso Spearmint Stevia Sweet Cicely Thyme Winter Savory 11 Perennial Herbs to Grow Many growers dream of having a large herb garden brimming with fresh herbs for cooking, tea making, and more. But if you don’t have a lot of room for growing herbs, reserve the space you do have for the herbs you use the most in your recipes and plants that are well-suited to your growing zone. If you’re having a hard time choosing between herb plants, here’s a list of 11 perennial herbs that are especially versatile in the kitchen and easy to care for. Bay Laurel If you use a lot of bay leaves in your cooking, why not grow a bay laurel tree (Laurus nobilis) or two and harvest your own bay leaves for recipes? Although bay laurels only grow perennially in USDA zones 8 through 10, these plants thrive in roomy pots and can be cultivated indoors in cold locations. Among their many charms, bay laurel plants are relatively pest-proof, they’re long-lived, and their glossy green leaves have lots of aesthetic appeal. Chives Chives grow well in gardens or pots, and they can be used—fresh or dry—to flavor salads, soups, baked potatoes, casseroles, and many more dishes. Incredibly cold tolerant, chives grow perennially in zones 3 and up and they’re fantastic companion plants for attracting bees and other pollinators to veggie gardens. If you’re tired of classic chives, try growing garlic chives instead and use the garlic-flavored leaves in any recipe that calls for garlic cloves. Lavender Many growers cultivate lavender plants just for their richly scented leaves and charming, purple flowers. However, English lavender is edible and it can be used in desserts, brewed into teas, or infused into creative cocktails and mocktails. Like many other woody-stemmed herbs, lavender grows best in full sun and well-draining soil, and most varieties are winter hardy from zones 5 through 9. Marjoram There are several types of marjoram, but the most common variety for cooking is only hardy from zones 9 and up. If you live in a warm location, you can grow marjoram outdoors year round, but growers in colder areas should move their plants inside in winter if they want to keep them around. Marjoram leaves taste a bit like citrus mixed with pine and they can be used to elevate the taste of pasta sauces and other savory treats. Mint Growers have lots of mint plants to choose from, but peppermint and spearmint are usually the easiest plants to find at garden centers. Apple mint, chocolate mint, lemon balm, and catnip also fall into the mint category and, like other mint plants, they grow best when they’re provided with regular water and plenty of sun. Most mint plants grow aggressively and they should be kept in pots or dedicated raised beds to avoid invasiveness; however, native mountain mint plants are more mild-mannered and they’re especially attractive to native bees. Oregano Another cold hardy herb, common oregano grows perennially in zones 4 and up, and plants often remain evergreen through the winter months. In fact, you may be able to harvest small quantities of oregano leaves even when there’s snow on the ground and use those leaves to flavor pizza sauces, soups, and other cozy treats. For more variety, try lesser known oregano varieties like Greek oregano, Mexican oregano, or Syrian oregano. Roman Chamomile German chamomile and Roman chamomile are both grown for herbal teas; however, only Roman chamomile grows perennially. Compared to German chamomile, Roman chamomile plants are relatively short and they sport smaller, white and yellow flowers that are highly attractive to pollinators. Picking chamomile flowers every day or two keeps plants productive, and it’s the best way to boost the size of your chamomile harvest. Sage A classic herb for flavoring roasted meats and veggies, sage plants maintain a relatively upright growth habit and usually max out at around two to three feet tall. These plants grow well in pots or garden beds, but they should be kept in full sun and well-draining soil to avoid issues like root rot. Most culinary sage plants boast soft, silvery-green leaves, but if you love lots of garden color, you may want to grow purple or tricolor sage instead. Tarragon Hardy in zones 4 and up, tarragon is a popular ingredient in French cuisine and its licorice-flavored leaves are often blended into butter or infused into vinegar or olive oil. As with other homegrown herbs, tarragon leaves can be used fresh or they can be frozen or dried for longer term storage. Not only are tarragon plants tasty, but their buttery orange flowers bring lots of color to herb beds and flower pots—and they’re highly attractive to pollinators, too. Thyme Another woody-stemmed herb from the Mediterranean region, thyme prefers to grow in well-draining, sandy soil and full sun. While common thyme is the most popular thyme variety for culinary use, adventurous gardeners may want to grow other types of thyme instead. Lemon thyme, for instance, is prized for its lemony flavor; while creeping thyme has a particularly low growth habit and can be used as an edible ground cover or grass alternative in lawns. Winter Savory Unlike summer savory, winter savory is a perennial plant that has woody stems and a deep, rich flavor with notes of black pepper and pine. Hardy to zone 4, winter savory is often grown as a marjoram substitute in cold climates, but it’s also useful as a pest-repelling companion plant in vegetable gardens. If you want to dry woody-stemmed herbs like winter savory, gather the herb stems in bundles and hang them in a warm, dry place with good air flow until the stems are thoroughly dry and brittle.

Cinnamon basil combines the flavor of traditional basil with that of sweet cinnamon, making it a perfectly unique addition to any herb garden. This fast-growing type of basil has distinctive violet central stems with long, deep green leaves. If left unpruned, cinnamon basil turns into an attractive flowering plant with lavender-pink blooms. Cinnamon basil grows up to 3 feet tall, but it can be kept much smaller for containers and limited space. In addition to being an attractive edible ornamental, its pest-repellant properties also make it an excellent companion plant for several popular garden crops, including tomatoes. How to Plant Cinnamon Basil When to Plant Whether you plant nursery-grown basil or start your own plants from seed outdoors, you’ll need to wait until there is no further danger of frost, when temperatures are consistently above 70 degrees during the day and above 50 degrees at night. To get a head start on the growing season, start the seeds indoors about one month before your last average frost date. For a constant supply of cinnamon basil, reseed it every four to six weeks. Selecting a Planting Site Find a location with full sun most of the day and fertile, well-drained soil. Like with all garden crops, following crop rotation rules is key for healthy plants. Don’t plant basil in the same spot where you have grown basil or other members of the mint family (lavender, sage, rosemary, thyme, oregano, mint) in the past two or three years. Spacing, Depth, and Support Space the plants 8 to 12 inches apart. Cinnamon basil has a strong central stem and does not require support. However, it does not compete well with weeds. Mulching around the plant helps to suppress weeds and preserves soil moisture. Cinnamon Basil Plant Care Light Basil needs plenty of sunshine, between 8 and 12 hours of sunlight every day. Soil The soil should be moist, moderately rich, and well-draining, ranging from mildly acidic to neutral pH. If the soil is poor, amend it with organic matter before planting. Water Unlike herbs with thick leaves, basil needs moisture; it is not drought-tolerant and prone to damage under heat stress. In the absence of regular rainfall, water it deeply every week, more often during hot summer weather. Temperature and Humidity Cinnamon basil is a warm-weather plant that reaches its peak in the summer. It does not take a frost to make it unusable—in cool weather, the leaves turn black. High humidity becomes an issue if the plants are crowded and there is not sufficient airflow. Fertilizer Although basil is harvested frequently, it needs only a moderate amount of fertilizer. For plants in the garden, applying a 5-10-5 once or twice during the growing season is sufficient. For potted plants, use a liquid fertilizer, diluted to half-strength, every four to six weeks. Too much fertilizer leads to rapid plant growth and diminished foliage flavor. Cinnamon Basil vs. Thai Basil What is commonly known as Thai basil in North America is sometimes also called cinnamon basil, leading to people wondering whether they are the same thing. They are not—cinnamon basil Ocimum basilicum ‘Cinnamon’ and Thai basil (O. basilicum var. thyrsiflora) are two different basil varieties. Cinnamon basil has a distinctive cinnamon spice taste; it has a fresh, earthy aroma with no traces of anise. Thai basil, on the other hand, has a distinctive taste of black licorice or sweet anise and no hints of cinnamon. The leaves are different, too. Cinnamon basil has narrower, more delicate, more serrated, and shinier leaves than Thai basil. Companion Plants for Cinnamon Basil Cinnamon basil makes an excellent companion plant for many garden crops because it deters pests such as aphids, thrips, tomato hornworms, and different flies, such as carrot flies and whiteflies.1 And it attracts beneficial pollinating insects, including bees and butterflies. Good companions for basil include tomatoes, peppers, carrots, beets, garlic, lettuce, and asparagus. Other herbs, such as cilantro, dill, and marjoram, are equally good neighbors. When planting basil next to garden crops, take into consideration the mature size of the neighboring plant and how it affects sun exposure. For example, a basil plant that is shaded by a tall tomato plant will do poorly. Harvesting Cinnamon Basil Cinnamon basil takes about 65 days from seeding to maturity, but you can start harvesting lightly after plants have become established. Using a sharp knife or scissors, cut off individual leaves at the tip of the stems or remove the entire stem tips with one or two sets of leaves. Once the plant is full and bushy, it is also possible to harvest entire stems by cutting them just above a pair of leaves. Regular harvesting forces the plant to grow more leaves and prevents the formation of flowers. Once the plant has started blooming, the flavor becomes too strong. The best time to cut basil is in the early morning; in cooler temperatures, it is less prone to wilting. Harvesting just before use is ideal. If you need to store it, keep it in a moderately cool place above 50 degrees F. How to Grow Cinnamon Basil in Pots Cinnamon basil makes an excellent container plant. Choose a container that is at least 6 inches in diameter and has large drainage holes and fill it with well-draining potting mix. Because cinnamon basil gets quite big, and overcrowding leads to fungal problems, it is best to give the plant its own container or use a planter large enough to space the plants at least 12 inches apart. Cinnamon basil in containers need more watering than plants in garden soil. Water whenever the top inch of soil feels dry. Repotting cinnamon basil during its single-season lifespan is not necessary. Pruning Harvesting basil regularly usually takes care of the pruning in one fell swoop yet there are some things to know about pruning cinnamon basil. If you are growing cinnamon basil for culinary use, the goal is to get it to grow as many leaves as possible without flowering. Pinch off the central stem when the seedlings are about six weeks old, and be diligent to remove any flower buds as soon as you detect them. If you are growing cinnamon basil as an ornamental, for its edible flowers, or as a pollinator magnet, there is no need to prune anything else but the central stem when the plant is about 6 inches tall to encourage branching. Left alone, cinnamon basil should flower by midsummer. How to Grow Cinnamon Basil From Seed The primary propagation method for cinnamon basil is to start it from seed either indoors or outdoors. Start the seeds indoors about four to six weeks before your last average frost date. Plant the seeds ¼ inch deeps in seed starting trays or flats filled with sterile potting mix. Keep the soil evenly moist. At a temperature between 65 to 70 degrees, germination takes six to ten days. The seedlings need plenty of sunlight; if you don’t have a south- or west-facing window, place them under grow lights for at least 8 hours daily. Harden off the seedlings before transplanting them in the garden well after the last frost. Follow the same directions for direct seeding outdoors after the last frost when the soil has warmed to at least 70 degrees F. Keep the soil evenly moist. When the seedlings are 2 inches tall, thin them so there is 8 to 12 inches between plants. Overwintering Like all basil, cinnamon basil is sensitive to temperatures below 50 degrees F. Most gardeners don’t bother protecting the plant from the cold because by the end of the summer or early fall, the plant has exhausted its energy reserves. If your plant still looks vigorous and healthy when temperatures drop, you can try to extend its lifespan. Dig it up, plant it in a pot, and bring it indoors. Place it near a south- or west-facing window or under grow lights for at least 10 hours daily while keeping it evenly moist. You might get a few more weeks out of it but even with the best care, the plant won’t last over the winter. Common Pests and Plant Diseases Basil is mostly unbothered by serious pests and diseases, but it can get fusarium wilt, gray mold, bacterial wilt, bacterial leaf spot, and downy mildew. In wet conditions, root rot may occur. The most common pests of basil are aphids, Japanese beetles, and slugs. The application of insecticidal soap helps to control soft-bodied insects. Japanese beetles are best hand-picked and tossed in soapy water. Diatomaceous earth is effective against slugs, but it must be reapplied after a rainfall.

Knowing how to propagate basil means always having a fresh supply for your kitchen all year long, no matter where you live. Dozens of varieties of this highly aromatic and versatile herb (Ocimum basilicum) exist and it's not difficult to keep your favorite going even during the off-season. Here's what you need to know to successfully propagate basil. Ways to Propagate Basil There are three ways to propagate basil: from cuttings in water, from cuttings in soil, and from seed. Basil is a warm season herb most often started from seed in early spring or planted directly into the garden once soil has warmed to between 50°F and 70°F. It germinates well and grows easily from seed, but to keep it going throughout the cool season, you'll need to propagate with cuttings from your mature, summer grown basil. The Best Way to Propagate Basil From Cuttings If you've ever kept freshly cut basil stems in water for use in cooking, as needed, you may have noticed that after a week or so, the stems begin to put out new roots. Essentially you have propagated the basil cuttings in water. Propagating basil in water is easy and requires little more than refreshing and topping up the water regularly. To grow new basil plants this way you need a sharp sterile snipper, clean water, and a clear glass, vase or container. Take several 4-inch cuttings from a mature basil plant, avoiding any stems with flowers at the top. Make your cuts below a set of leaves of leaf nodes. Remove all but the top two sets of leaves from the cutting. Fill a clear glass with water. Water that has not been chemically treated (i.e., distilled water or rainwater) works best. Submerge the stems, keeping the top leaves above water level. Place the glass on or close to a sunny windowsill where it receives plenty of bright, indirect light and warm temperatures. Change water weekly or more often if it begins to get cloudy. You should see roots begin to form in 12 to 18 days. How to Propagate Basil in Soil Propagating basil cuttings in soil is similar to propagating in water. Both methods are simple and usually successful. Gather together a sharp, sterile snipper, deep pots with drainage holes, potting soil, and plastic covering. Growth hormone is optional. Fill a pot or pots with slightly moistened planting medium. High grade potting soil works well. You can start several cuttings in a large 6-inch pot or plant individual cuttings in smaller 4-inch pots. Using the snipper, take 4-inch cuttings from a mature basil plant, avoiding any stems that have flowers on them. Make your cuts below a set of leaves or leaf nodes. Remove all but the top two sets of leaves. Dip the bottoms of the cuttings in growth hormone. This step is optional since most cuttings root easily without it. Use your index finger to poke narrow, deep holes in the potting soil. Insert a cutting into each hole making sure to keep the top leaves well above the soil surface. Tamp soil down around each cutting to keep it upright. Water thoroughly. Cover the pot loosely with plastic and use a small stake or pencil to keep the plastic from touching the cutting. Place pot(s) in a location that receives plenty of bright, indirect light and warm temperatures. Keep soil moist but not soggy. Remove plastic for an hour or so daily to allow air circulation and prevent mold. As soon as new leaves emerge, remove plastic and check to see if the cutting has rooted. If a gentle tug results in resistance, your basil cutting has roots. This usually occurs in two to four weeks.

Sage is a woody perennial herb that is known for its earthy, herbal, slightly sweet fragrance. Hardy and evergreen or semi-evergreen to zone 4, sage is rich in strong essential oils that give it a musky, but sharp, pungent taste and aroma. Sage is a common ingredient in cooking, and is often tied in bundles or used as incense. Whether you use it to season your holiday turkey or to make your home smell nice, learn how and when you should harvest sage. When to Harvest Sage Most leafy herbs have the richest flavor and aroma prior to flowering. However, common garden sage can be an exception depending on your particular growing conditions. You can potentially harvest before, during, and after flowering, although leaf production will slow considerably once the plant flowers. Typically, sage will bloom spring to mid-summer with two-lipped flowers in shades of purple, but growing conditions play a role in bloom time. Blooms last for several weeks with those on the lower stem drying up as flowers higher up continue to open.1 On occasion, they may rebloom. Try experimenting by harvesting leaves at different times and comparing flavor and quality to learn if flowering changes the taste of your sage leaves. In the first year of growth, harvest lightly taking only a few leaves throughout the season. Once the plant has overwintered and developed a strong root system and bushy growth, leaves can be harvested in greater quantities. The best time of day to harvest is mid-morning after dew has dried and concentrated the essential oils in the leaves. Tip Sage flowers are edible, and different varieties add flavors ranging from fruity to spicy. Flowers are used in teas, and made into jellies, vinegars, and syrups among other culinary applications. How to Harvest Sage Throughout the growing season, harvest sage by the leaf or by removing a stem with a whorl of leaves. Using your thumb and forefinger to pinch leaves works best for harvesting sage. Look for leaves between one and five inches long, solidly green without spots or insect damage. Use your thumb and forefinger to pinch off the leaf with its stem where it joins the main stem. Or, pinch the main stem below the top whorl of leaves. Pinch the stem back to the second top most whorl of leave. How to Prune Sage In late winter, around the end of February, use a small hand pruner or clipper to cut your sage plant back by up to one-third of the total growth, to just above a node. Remove and discard any discolored or damaged leaves and use or dry any viable leaves from the cuttings. Depending on winter conditions in your growing zone, fresh leaves may remain on the plant and are fine to use, but may have some diminished flavor. A small hand pruner or clipper works well for late winter pruning. How to Dry and Store Sage Sage leaves are thick compared to many other leafy green herbs and take some time to dry naturally. Take cuttings with four to five inches of stem attached. Bind two or three stems together with a rubber band or twine and hang them upside down in a dry location, out of direct sunlight with good air circulation. The denser your bundle, the longer it takes leaves to dry with greater potential for mold to develop. Lay individual leaves flat on a paper towel-covered tray for natural drying. Single leaves dry more quickly than bundled stems. You can dry sage in a food dehydrator or low-temperature oven. The best drying temperature is between 95 and 115°F. Place fresh whole leaves in plastic bags or layered in freezer containers, remove air, and freeze for up to a year. The leaves are dry when they crumble easily. However, storing them in whole-leaf form preserves the flavor. As soon as leaves are broken down they begin to lose essential oils, so dry them whole and rub them between your palms or use an herb grinder to add them to food. The leaves must be completely dry before storage to avoid mold and discoloration. Glass containers with tight-fitting lids retain the best flavor and color for the longest time. If you choose to grind the herb before storage it should be used within a year. To store fresh sage, wrap leaves in a paper towel and place them in the refrigerator. Or remove lower leaves and place stems in a small amount of water. Use fresh sage within a week. Tips for Harvesting Sage Harvest lightly the first year. Once the plant is well established you can harvest more leaves. Harvest the leaf with its stem. Stems can be removed before storing. Harvest only the green, new growth stems and avoid cutting into woody portions of the stems during the growing season. Look for leaves between one and five inches in length, blemish free, with solid green/gray color. Leaves can be harvested throughout the growing season but it's better for the plant to take larger harvests prior to flowering. Cut sage plants back by one-third in late winter to promote bushier growth during the next season.

Lavender (Lavandula spp.) is a well-known perennial plant that is commonly associated with fields of blooming lavender and sun-drenched gardens. Luckily, though, you don't need a yard or an outdoor space, you can also grow lavender indoors to enjoy its fragrant blooms. In the proper conditions, lavender will thrive as a houseplant. Be cautious, however, where you place your lavender plants in your home because lavender is toxic to pets.1 Common Name Lavender Botanical Name Lavandula spp. Plant Type Perennial, shrub Toxicity Toxic to pets1 Can You Grow Lavender Indoors? Lavender is not a traditional houseplant, but that doesn't mean it won't succeed if grown indoors. While it's easy and rewarding to grow, in order to thrive indoors, lavender needs to receive as much light as possible. For this reason, it's best to place your potted lavender in a south-facing window or under an LED grow light. To keep the perennial shrub healthy, indoor temperatures should be kept between 50 and 70°F, depending on the time of year. There are more than 450 varieties of lavender. Some of the best varieties to grow indoors include French lavender, Canary Island lavender (Lavandula canariensis), and fernleaf lavender (Lavandula multifida). With the proper conditions and attention, you should be able to enjoy the calming aromas of lavender indoors all year long. How to Grow Lavender Indoors Sunlight One of the greatest challenges of growing lavender indoors is ensuring it gets enough sunlight. Lavender is a sun-loving plant, that needs as much of it as possible when indoors. It will do best in a sunny south-facing window or somewhere it gets at least four hours of direct sunlight each day. Potted lavender should be rotated once a week to ensure uniform growth and flowering. Without enough light, lavender will stop producing its fragrant purple blooms and be more susceptible to diseases and pests. Artificial Light If there isn't a spot in your house or apartment that gets consistent sunlight all year long, you might consider investing in an LED grow light. The lights should be hung from 14 to 30 inches above the plant. Keep the lavender under the LED grow lights for at least 12 hours a day. Temperature and Humidity While it will be impossible to mimic the outdoor temperatures in which lavender thrives, the indoor temperatures should at least reflect the seasonal changes. From spring to fall, daytime temperatures around 70°F and nighttime temperatures between 50 and 55°F are best. From late fall through the end of winter, lavender should be kept cooler, around 45 to 50°F at night and 60 to 65°F during the day. Lavender prefers a low-humidity climate, which makes it ideal for growing indoors, as most homes maintain a humidity level of 40 percent or lower. Watering Lavender that's grown in a pot requires more watering than when it's planted in a garden bed. When grown indoors, lavender typically needs to be watered once every 10 to 14 days. As with all houseplants, check the soil moisture by feeling the soil with your finger before thoroughly watering the plant. Fertilizer You should only fertilize your indoor lavender plant during the spring and summer. Use an organic plant food listed for use in containers or a water soluble plant food solution at half the recommended strength. Pruning and Maintenance You can and should prune your lavender plant. Cutting away stems and branches with flowers will promote new growth elsewhere, leading to a fuller plant. Whether growing indoors or outdoors, lavender should be pruned after the first flowering in the spring, and again in the fall. Container and Size The size of the pot you plant your lavender in will depend on the plant's size. In general, the container should be one to two inches larger than the plant's rootball. Terracotta pots are preferred because they are porous and absorb some of the excess moisture after watering. Potting Soil and Drainage Just like outdoors, lavender thrives best in well-drained, slightly gritty soil. The best for indoor lavender is a quick-draining mix of high-quality potting soil and cactus soil. You can also supplement the soil mix with limestone. Potting and Repotting Lavender When potting lavender, make sure the pot has drainage holes in the bottom. Fill the pot with soil up to a couple of inches below the top. Gently pull apart the roots to loosen them. Place the plant in the pot and add more soil up to the top, leaving about half an inch between the soil and the top of the pot. Lavender is a slow-growing plant, so it won't need to be repotted frequently. A good rule of thumb for repotting lavender is to do it every one to two years. Repot the plant in a pot that's one size up, as pots that are too big slow down plant growth and increase the risk of overwatering. Moving Lavender Outdoors for the Summer If you have a sunny outdoor location where you can move the plant from late spring (after the last frost) to early fall, by all means, let your lavender plant spend the warm season outside. Just remember that outdoor plants need more frequent watering, especially in hot weather. Tip When bringing your indoor lavender plant outside for the summer, give it a few days to get acclimated to the much stronger sunlight and wind outdoors. Start with a couple of hours in the morning sun and gradually increase the time you leave the plant outside.