fruits

Raspberries are gems in the garden, and to help them thrive, pay attention to what you plant nearby—by companion planting for raspberries, you might just get a bigger harvest. Whether you are planning to grow wild raspberries or cultivated varieties, you want the plants to thrive and produce abundant fruit. One way to help the plants along is to pay attention to what crops and plants are located near the raspberry bushes. Learn more about what plants are great companions to your rows of raspberry canes and which plants should never come near them. 11 Good Companion Plants for Raspberries Raspberries prefer full sunlight and well-drained, sandy loam soils rich in organic matter so it is important to select companion plants that have the same requirements. Since raspberries are usually trellised, there is plenty of room at the bottom of the canes for companion plants. Garlic: The pungent odor repels Japanese beetles that can harm the raspberry fruit and leaves. Leeks, Onions, and Chives: All are members of the Allium family with odors that repel harmful insects and deer. Marigolds: Effecting in controlling certain nematodes, microscopic worms that feed on plants. Lavender: Attracts bees and butterflies for pollination. Nasturtiums: Attracts pollinators and repels whiteflies, squash bugs, and aphids. Yarrow: Repels harlequin beetles that feed on raspberry plants. Chamomile: Attracts pollinators. Mint: Repels aphids. Turnips: Attract the harlequin beetle to prevent it from targeting the raspberries. Spring Cover Crops: In the early spring, sow a cover crop such as buckwheat, rye, millet, or oats to improve the organic matter in the soil and to kill out perennial weeds. The crop should be turned into the soil before it goes to seed. Late Summer Cover Crop: Sow a cover crop like spring oats just after the harvest of the raspberries is complete. The oats aid in hardening off the raspberry plants for winter by absorbing excess water and nutrients in the soil, reducing soil erosion, and smothering weed growth. What Not to Plant Near Raspberries Just as some plants can be beneficial to the growth and fruit production of raspberries, others can transmit plant and soil diseases that can harm raspberries. Tomatoes: A member of the nightshade family, tomatoes can carry verticillium root rot that can affect raspberries. If there have been no tomatoes in the soil near the plants for four years, the area is safe for planting. Blueberries: Blueberries require acidic soil to thrive while raspberries only need mildly acidic soil. Planting both fruits together will allow only one to thrive. Potatoes: Another nightshade, potatoes can spread the verticillium virus to raspberries. Peppers: Avoid planting raspberries in an area that has grown peppers until four years have passed. Strawberries: Strawberries are susceptible to the same root-rotting diseases as raspberries. Land that has been planted with strawberries for four years or more can build up a population of root-rotting diseases and should not be used when planting raspberries. Eggplant: Another nightshade spreader of verticillium root rot, keep them away from raspberries. Wild and Cultivated Raspberries: If planting cultivated raspberry varieties, destroy all wild raspberries within 600 feet of the site to reduce the possibility of spreading viruses. Boysenberries, Blackberries, and Gooseberries: Avoid planting raspberries near similar bramble fruits to prevent the transfer of soil-borne fungal diseases. What Is Companion Planting? Companion planting has been done for centuries and is the practice of growing different plants together for mutual benefit.1 A classic example is planting "the three sisters" or corn, beans, and squash together. The corn supplies a support system for the climbing bean vines, the beans provide nitrogen to fertilize the soil and stabilize the tall corn during heavy winds, and the large leaves of squash plants shade the ground to help retain soil moisture and prevent weeds. Unlike other gardening areas, much information about companion gardening is not always based on hard scientific facts, but more on observations and garden lore found in farmers’ almanacs. However, some studies confirm the benefits of separating certain crops from others to prevent soil diseases and nutrient depletion.

Rhubarb is the most flavorful when the leaf stalks are young and tender, about 7 to 14 inches long, soon after the leaf unfurls—this is the best time to harvest it. Usually, this happens between May and July when growing this as a spring crop. To prevent damaging the perennial plant and diminishing next year's harvest, grasp each leafstalk near the base and pull it slightly to one side. Using a knife to cut the stems can leave an entry point for crown rot diseases. Follow our guidelines for a bountiful rhubarb harvest. When to Harvest Rhubarb Rhubarb is a cool-season, hardy perennial that goes dormant in the winter with leaf stalks that emerge in early spring. The best time to harvest the pink or red leaf stalks with a unique tart and tangy flavor is when they are young and tender. As the stalks grow large, the texture becomes more stringy. As a rule of thumb, the deeper the red color, the more flavorful the stalks will be. Depending on the rhubarb variety, the leaf stalks may be only 12 inches long, or as long as two feet. Harvest season can begin as early as mid-March in warmer growing zones and continue through the end of June in cooler climates. How to Harvest Rhubarb When the leaf stalks have grown to their expected height and turned pink or red, it's time to harvest them. Harvest each stalk individually by grasping the stalk firmly near the base of the plant and pulling it to one side with a quick twist. The stalk will be released from the plant. Use a knife or garden shears to remove the leaves. Place the stalks in one basket and the leaves in another. While the leaves should not be eaten, they can be safely added to the compost pile. Do not use a knife or garden shears to cut the stalks from the plant1, as the knife can transplant diseases or pests from plant to plant. The open wound left by cutting the stalk can also invite diseases like crown rot into the plant. Have a couple of baskets or buckets on hand when harvesting rhubarb. The leaves should be trimmed from the stalk as soon as possible, as leaving them on will speed up the wilting of the stalks. How to Store Harvested Rhubarb If you plan to use the harvested rhubarb with a couple of hours, wash away any garden soil with fresh water and trim the ends. Cut into smaller pieces to stew, poach, roast, or purée. If you don't plan to use it immediately, the freshly harvested stalks can be kept in the refrigerator, unwashed, and wrapped tightly in plastic, for up to three weeks. Rhubarb can also be canned or frozen for use in future recipes. How to Know When Rhubarb Is Done Producing You will notice that the rhubarb plant will stop or slow down production of new growth as the weather warms. Stop removing leaf stalks when this happens to keep the plant healthy and vigorous. Allow the plant to keep all the remaining stalks and leaves to build energy reserves for next year. If the plant bolts or a seed stalk emerges from the plant, cut it off. If the plant flowers and sets seed, the harvest for next year will be much smaller.

Whether you start tomato plants from seeds or purchase tomato seedlings from the garden center, it's important to know how and when to transplant the seedlings into the garden. Tomatoes are ready for prime time and can be transplanted as soon as the last frost has passed. But since they love the warm weather, hold off on planting until it is comfortably 60-70 degrees F outside. In the northern U.S., this is typically mid-May, and in the southern U.S., this could be much sooner, like late March to early April. Following the guidelines of your USDA hardiness zone and the last expected frost in your area, you can successfully transplant tomato seedlings into the garden or patio containers to harvest a bountiful tomato crop. We're sharing more on transplanting tomato seedlings and planting tomatoes for a great harvest below. When to Transplant Tomato Seedlings First thing first: if you start your tomato plants from seeds, they should be moved from the seed-starting tray to a larger pot before going into the garden. This allows the root system to have room to develop. It's time to transport them into bigger pots once they have three or more sets of leaves and are three to four inches tall.1 Ideally, do this around four weeks before it is time to transplant the seedlings into the garden or an outside container. Now for what we all want to know: when can these beauties land in the garden? Larger tomato seedlings should be transplanted once the last chance of frost has passed and the weather during the day sits comfortably at 65-70 degrees F. This varies greatly depending on the USDA hardiness zone in your growing area, so be sure to check the hardiness map to see where your area falls. How to Transplant Tomato Seedlings to Pots When your tomato seedlings reach about three inches tall and have three sets of leaves, it's time to transplant the seedlings from the seed-starting tray to individual pots. Choose the right container. It should be at least four inches deep with sufficient drainage holes so the roots will not become waterlogged. The containers can be biodegradable pots that can be planted directly into the garden, recycled flower pots, or even Styrofoam coffee cups. Fill the containers with a potting mix. Do not use garden soil, it is too heavy for tender roots to develop. Moisten the mixture and let the pots sit for several hours. Water the tomato seedlings well a few hours before you transplant them to the larger pot to help prevent the seedlings from drying out during the process and help keep the seed-starting mix clinging to the delicate roots. Take your tomato seedlings out of the seed starting tray. Push the seedling out of the tray by pushing up the soil, root ball, and plant from the bottom of the tray—never pull the plant out of the tray by the stem. Place the seedlings in the new containers and add the potting mixture. Bury about two-thirds of the stem. All along the stem are tiny air roots that will develop and strengthen the plant. Lightly tamp down the added potting mixture. The top three sets of leaves should be above the top level of the mix. If there are more sets of leaves, remove them before burying the plant. Fertilize the newly repotted seedlings. Follow the label of a balanced liquid fertilizer to mix a watering solution, but dilute that solution by 50 percent. Water the newly transplanted seedlings thoroughly. Watch the moisture levels in the containers and repeat the diluted fertilization every two weeks until the plants are ready to go in the garden or outside container. Should You Harden Off Tomato Transplants? When daytime temperatures are mild and the plants have become established in the container, about two weeks after transplanting the seedlings into the larger pots, they should be acclimated to outdoor conditions—this is called hardening off. Start the process by putting the pots outside away from direct sunlight for a couple of hours each day. Gradually increase the amount of time and exposure to sunlight. Now that the plants are exposed to more light, drying winds, and higher temperatures, they will require more water. As the seedlings grow, they may need support, especially if the tomato plant is an indeterminate variety. Add several sticks around the edge of the pot to help support the plant. Do not force a stick into the soil at the base of the main stem because it can damage the roots. How to Plant Tomato Seedlings in the Garden When the tomato plants are about 10 to 12 inches tall and the last chance of frost has passed in your growing zone, it's time to plant the tomato seedlings in the garden or patio container. Before planting, make sure your garden soil is tilled to get rid of weeds, and work in some compost to create a loose planting bed. Select a planting site for the tomato plants that will receive full sun for at least six to eight hours daily. Remove the tomato seedling from the pot. Do this by pushing it up from the bottom. If the seedling is in a peat pot, cut slits in the side of the pot to help newly forming roots escape. Fill the bottom of the hole with loose garden soil and place the plant in. Fill the hole until only one-third of the tomato plant is above the soil line. The buried stem will develop more roots that produce a vigorous plant. Slope the soil slightly away from the center stem so water will not collect at the base of the plant and lead to waterlogged roots. Add support. A tomato cage or stakes can be added easily at this stage to support the tomato as it grows. Water the transplant well and check moisture level daily. If the transplant looks droopy in the mornings, it needs water. Gradually, the plant will adapt to conditions and should only need water once a week. Don't forget to fertilize. Fertilize the transplant with a balanced all-purpose plant food until the plant begins to flower and set tomatoes. Transplanting Tomatoes Into Containers For container-grown tomatoes, use a good potting mix and a container that is at least 8 inches deep, 12 to 16 inches in diameter, and has plenty of drainage holes. Place a couple of inches of potting mix in the bottom of the container and remove the tomato seedling from the small pot. Place the plant in the larger container with only one-third of the plant above the edge of the container. Fill in around the plant with potting mix and water well.

Blueberry plants are fairly simple to grow, making them a great choice for both inexperienced and avid gardeners. However, to produce the biggest and juiciest blueberries, fertilizing with the right products at the right time is crucial. Experts recommend fertilizing blueberry plants in early spring, and sometimes again in early summer and early fall, with an acidic, slow-release fertilizer. The appropriate fertilizer for blueberry plants will supply essential nutrients like nitrogen and maintain the correct soil pH. Conditions for Growing Blueberries Blueberry plants are relatively easy to grow in pots or directly in the ground and are fairly tolerant of both hot and cold weather. Nevertheless, blueberries do best in areas that are protected from high winds and receive six to eight hours of full sun. Your soil should be acidic, well-draining, and rich in organic matter, with a pH of 4.0 to 5.5. When to Fertilize Blueberry Plants To help your blueberries access the right amount of nutrients at the right times, you should fertilize at least once a season and up to three times, based on the soil pH and plant's health. While the exact timing is flexible, experts suggest fertilizing blueberries before the plants begin producing foliage or at the first signs of foliage (generally in the early spring). Always check your the recommended application rates and timing for your specific fertilizer before adding it to your blueberry plants. Some gardeners also fertilize blueberries in early summer, roughly six weeks later, as well as early fall, roughly one month before the first frost. However, the amount of fertilizer your blueberries require, ultimately depends on two factors: the soil pH and available nitrogen. If you notice pale leaves or minimal growth on your blueberry plants, test the soil pH to see if it's time to fertilize. How to Fertilize Blueberries You can choose a water-soluble fertilizer for your blueberry plants, but many avid gardeners recommend an acidic, slow-release fertilizer, which comes in the form of small granules. Their solid composition allows for a gradual application of nutrients over time, which helps promote the long-term health of your blueberry plants. Sprinkle your fertilizer granules evenly around the base of the plant and outward, as far away from the plant's main stem as its branches and leaves. Blueberry plants have fairly shallow roots, so there's no need to rake or turn over the soil after applying your fertilizer. In fact, you should avoid disturbing the soil, since doing so could inadvertently damage the plant's roots. Once you've applied the fertilizer, some gardeners like to add a thin layer (no more than two inches) of mulch to help insulate the plant's roots. If you choose to apply a layer of mulch, we recommend a simple option like wood chips or even dried, shredded leaves. The Best Fertilizers for Blueberries The best fertilizer for your blueberry plants should accomplish two primary goals: add nitrogen and acidify the soil. As is the case with many fruit plants, nitrogen is essential to help blueberries grow plump and juicy. Nitrogen helps every part of a blueberry plant thrive, from the depth of the roots to the color of the leaves. An ammonium sulfate or elemental sulfur fertilizer can both provide nitrogen gradually and maintain a healthy soil pH. If you'd like to solely apply nutrients, purchase an organic granular fruit fertilizer to feed your plant. Blueberry plants will generally thrive with any fertilizer designed for acid-loving plants like azaleas and rhododendrons. Be sure to test your soil pH before adding fertilizer to assess the nutrients already present in your garden and determine which is the appropriate fertilizer for your plants.

Imagine growing juicy strawberries in your home so you can always have fresh fruit instead of relying on what's sold at the grocery store. It's possible to grow this perennial evergreen plant indoors—even if you have limited space—when you choose the right type of strawberry varietal, container, lighting, and soil mix that will make your harvest a success. Another benefit of growing strawberries indoors is that the fruit is protected from insects and birds that love to eat the ripe berries, leaving more treats for you and your family. Get started to learn how to grow strawberries indoors using our guide. Can You Grow Strawberries Indoors? You can grow strawberry plants indoors and start them from seed at any time of the year or purchase mature plants from a garden center that produces fruit quickly. All you need is a sunny spot or grow lights and a pot. Day-neutral (plants that grow regardless of the length of the day) and everbearing cultivars are the best to use because they fruit readily in their first year, making them easy to grow indoors. Consider these cultivars: Albion: This day-neutral strawberry produces delicious, medium-sized, firm fruit and is a strong, compact plant with sturdy dark green leaves. Cabrillo: The day-neutral overbearing berry produces large, uniform sweet/sour strawberries with a higher yield than Albion. Seascape: The day-neutral strawberry, Seascape, will flower and fruit all season. The berries are large, prolific, and have good flavor when they are ripened on the plant. Ozark Beauty: This overbearing, large plant reaches 12 inches tall and produces large fruit. Alpine: These everbearing strawberries are one of the few types of indoor strawberries that don't mind being grown close together and they may require only four hours of sun while growing indoors. How to Grow Strawberries Indoors Sunlight Strawberries require full sun (at least six hours daily of bright light) to thrive and produce fruit.1 You can substitute grow lights for sunlight, especially when seed starting. Temperature and Humidity Daytime temperatures should be between 68 °F and 75 °F. Lower temperatures at night help produce high-quality fruit. Keep humidity low to prevent powdery mildew from forming but for a few nights a week, increase the humidity to avoid tipburn.2 Watering Strawberries like moist soil, but they should never be waterlogged. The most common problem is overwatering, which causes root rot and powdery mildew. Water strawberry plants about once a week or when the top inch of soil is dry. Water in the morning or afternoon and from the bottom so the leaves stay dry. It's also best to use filtered or non-chlorinated water. Air Circulation Strawberries like to have plenty of air circulation. If they are planted too closely together, they may develop mold problems. Fertilizer Feed strawberries every three to four weeks with a balanced liquid fertilizer. Once the fruit-producing cycle is complete, apply a balanced fertilizer as the plants begin forming new buds within the crown that will become the next crop. Pruning and Maintenance Strawberries do not require pruning but you can remove dead leaves from the base of the plant. Do not damage the crown or center of the plant. Pollination Since there are no bees indoors to help with pollination, you'll get the most fruit if you hand-pollinate the plants. Here's how: Use a small, clean paintbrush or a cotton swab. Gently agitate the pollen from the outer ring of the flower’s center to the inner ring of the same flower. Or, two flowers can be rubbed together to transfer the pollen. Container and Size Containers for indoor strawberries can be plastic, glazed pottery, or unglazed terra-cotta. They should have good drainage holes but do not need to be very deep because strawberry roots are shallow. A 12-inch diameter pot fits three plants or a 6- to 8-inch diameter pot fits a single plant. Potting Soil and Drainage Use an indoor houseplant potting mix of mainly peat moss or coconut coir with added perlite to make a loose, loamy soil with good drainage to keep your strawberries happy inside. Potting and Repotting Strawberries Start with fresh seed, transplanted runners, or new seedlings. Indoor strawberry seeds can be planted at any time of the year. However, seedlings or mature plants are easiest to find in the early spring. Some strawberry plants produce runners or baby plants that can be removed from the mother plant and potted in a new container but you may not see an abundance of runners in day-neutral strawberries. If you have runners, these transplants should produce fruit in five to six weeks. Although strawberries are perennials, they should be replaced after two or three years with fresh plants as their ability to produce fruit will dwindle. Harvesting Indoor Strawberries Harvest your indoor strawberries as soon as they ripen or when the berries are uniformly red. Pick them, keeping the cap and stem attached to stay fresh and firm. Everbearing strawberries will produce two major crops while day-neutral cultivars produce a handful of berries every few weeks.

How much cold can tomatoes tolerate? Tomatoes are notoriously cold-sensitive, so it helps to know what to do with the plants when temperatures drop. Your tomato plants may still have unripened or partially ripened fruit on them when the thermometer plummets to the freezing mark. Learn how to protect your tomato plants when the cold weather moves in. Watch for Signs of Cold Tomatoes Signs of cold damage on tomatoes, especially young plants, are not always visible. Here are signs to look for if you think your tomatoes are too cold: Light tan or gray spots appear on the leaves of young plants in the spring. A healthy plant can outgrow any damage from a brief cold snap. Any darkening of the leaf or stem tissue will later wilt and turn brown. The leaves are curling. Signs of cold damage that show up on the plants later include: A damaged plant will have poorly set fruit. Plant growth will look stunted. Large-fruited tomato varieties will have deep crevices or holes and scarring in the blossom end (catfacing). A spring cold snap can result in distorted, malformed tomatoes when they are just ripening. Dry, brown scars that look like zippers running from the stem to the blossom end of the tomatoes indicate damage. Damaged tomatoes ripen unevenly.1 Start Tomato Seeds at the Right Time Prevent cold damage by starting your tomato plants from seed indoors at the right time. If you start the seeds too early it will still be too cold to move them outdoors. It's best to start tomatoes from seeds six to eight weeks before your area’s last projected frost date. Don’t Expose Young Plants to Cold Temperatures below 60°F can subject highly cold-sensitive tomato seedlings to chilling injury. The damage won't be noticeable right away but the plants will experience stunted growth, poor flowering and fruit set, and catfacing. Wait to plant the tomatoes until nighttime temperatures remain consistently above 60 degrees Fahrenheit. Take your time hardening off the plants before planting them outdoors in your garden or containers. Select Early- or Mid-Season Tomatoes Choose cold-tolerant tomato varieties bred to set fruit in cooler temperatures below 55 degrees Fahrenheit. These varieties typically also mature earlier. Early-season varieties mature in 52 to 70 days and mid-season tomatoes in around 70 to 80 days. There are many different varieties, both hybrid tomatoes and heirloom tomatoes. Popular varieties include Early Girl (52 days) and Better Boy (75 days). Ripen Green Tomatoes Indoors If the weather forecast calls for frost, don't cover the plant. Instead, pick all unripe tomatoes from your plants and ripen them indoors. How to Protect Tomatoes on Cold Nights If there are still green or semi-ripe tomatoes on your plants around the time of your first average fall frost, keep an eye on the weather and consider these two ways to cover and protect your plants. Bubble Wrap If your plants are growing in tomato cages, protect them by wrapping bubble wrap around the entire cage, including the top, and use duct tape to secure it. It's a good time to prune the plant and remove excess foliage before wrapping it up. Remove the bubble wrap the next morning or you run the risk of excessive heat build-up under the plastic that will cook the plant. Sheets and Blankets You can also cover the plants with old sheets or light blankets held in place with sturdy stakes. Loosely tie a strong string around the plant to secure the cover from blowing away. Promptly remove the cover in the morning.

Moderate in spice and highly popular for cooks, Anaheim peppers (Capsicum annuum ‘Anaheim’), also known as Anaheim chilies, are a beginner-friendly pepper plant to add to your garden. Hotter than a bell pepper but milder than a jalapeno, many gardeners find these peppers to be the perfect blend and the ideal option for growing year after year. These plants can be grown as perennials, with one seed producing fruit for up to 3 years. With the right amount of sunlight and watering habits, learn how to grow your own Anaheim pepper plants and produce plenty of delicious fruit by late summer. Anaheim Pepper Care Because Anaheim peppers have the potential to be perennial plants, growing up to three years in a row on a single seed, many choose to plant in containers to allow for movement of the plant to sunnier spots throughout the year and the ability to move indoors during cold or rough weather. Plant each seed or seedling about 20 inches apart so they have proper room to grow and spread, though they don't need quite as much space as some other nightshades, like larger tomato varieties. However, the more room you give them, the more likely they will produce heartily for years without running out of space. Individual peppers should reach maturity and be harvested at around 80 days, though you can pick earlier when they're immature and green for a milder spice and sweeter taste. If you pick them when red and fully mature, the pepper still provides a generally mild spice, ranking at 500-1000 Scoville. Light Plant Anaheim peppers where they will receive the most sunlight, or plant in a container so you can move them to receive more sun. These light-loving plants should receive 6 to 8 hours of direct sun per day to stay healthy and produce the most fruit. Soil Anaheim peppers thrive best in sandy loam soil. If you can do a test, a pH of 7 to 8.5 is ideal and will yield the healthiest plants. The soil should be rich in organic material, so amending it with compost or manure is beneficial.1 Water Anaheim peppers require a careful balance when it comes to watering. They need frequent watering, especially during hot, dry spells in the summer. However, they're also very susceptible to root rot, so avoid overwatering. Do not water to the point of soaked soil. These plants will do best if given 1-2 inches of water per week. Water around the soil and base of the plant, rather than right onto the leaves, to avoid leaves rotting. Temperature and Humidity Due to its native climate, this plant does well in southern areas with lots of sun and dry heat. Plant them when temperatures are above 75 degrees Fahrenheit. The soil temperature should be at least 60 degrees when planting seeds or seedlings. Choose a spot with lots of direct sunlight and good airflow. You can also successfully grow these sun-loving nightshades in greenhouses but don't forget to incorporate fans, as these plants don't do well in an overly humid climate. Fertilizer Your pepper plant will have the best success if started with some fertilizer. You can also incorporate rock phosphorous or bone meal to encourage healthy root growth.2 As your plant grows, you can fertilize every few weeks with a low-nitrogen fertilizer. Organic options can be a great choice, but no matter what fertilizer you use, follow the application and quantity instructions carefully to avoid damaging the delicate plant. Pruning Pruning your pepper plant properly can help you achieve the highest yield possible. While not required, pruning helps provide more airflow for your plant, helps avoid rot and pests, and ultimately provides you with a greater harvest down the line. About a week after planting a seedling, you can begin early pruning. In this stage, pinch an inch or so off the main stem, which will encourage the development of two healthy branches and, therefore, a larger, healthier plant later on. Remove the first batch of flowers that appear on your plant early in the process. While it may seem counterintuitive, these flowers appear too early, and pulling them allows the plant to focus its energy on strengthening its branches and roots, then flowering later. Finally, later on, prune any branches or leaves that touch the soil. These are prone to rotting or becoming food for pests and can damage or kill your entire plant. Propagating Anaheim Peppers Propagating peppers takes a while and isn't always successful, but you may want to try it if you have a hardy, delicious, or disease-resistant plant in your garden. To do so, identify a young branch you'd like to remove. Using a sharp blade, remove it cleanly at the base of the branch. Leave a few leaves at the top but remove all lower leaves, flowers, and fruit. Fill a glass with water and submerge the cut end, ensuring at least one node is submerged. Keep the glass in indirect light and change the water as needed. Once roots 1-2 inches long form, transfer the cutting to soil or a hydroponic system. How to Grow Anaheim Peppers from Seed Anaheim peppers are tender and prefer warm weather, so they shouldn't be planted outside until the soil is warm and there's no risk of frost. You can plant seeds indoors in a growing tray or your seedling system of choice about a month and a half before your area's typical final frost date. Plant seeds about 0.2 inches deep in the soil and leave them near a window with full sun and no draft. Once the outdoor temps and soil temps are suitable (if nights are below 50 degrees, it's still too cold), and your seedling is at least 3 inches tall, you can transfer it to your garden bed or container, following the guidelines for fertilizer, soil type, and watering. Overwintering Anaheim peppers can be kept as a perennial for up to 3 years if you follow the proper steps for overwintering. For areas with winters that fall below 50 degrees, you'll need to take some precautions ahead of time, and you'll need to plant in moveable containers. Find an indoor spot that won't fall below 55 degrees, like an attached garage or basement. Your plant won't need lots of light during the winter. Being near a small window or even a fluorescent bulb will work. Once you've relocated your plant, cut down to watering only every 3 to 4 weeks, keeping the soil from entirely drying out but never soaking it. Leaves will die off as the plant goes dormant. This is normal, and doesn't mean the plant has died completely. At this point, you can also prune the plant back to a few main branches. They'll regrow come spring. About a month before your final frost, move the plant to somewhere with a bit more light and warmth. Then, once temperatures are high enough in the summer, move back outside to a spot with bright sunlight and resume normal care. Common Pests and Plant Diseases Aphids While mammals won't come to munch on your pepper plants, they are a draw to many common garden insect pests. Aphids love peppers and may come to eat them, leaving behind diseases or decimating your plant. Flea Beetles They're also prone to flea beetles, which will leave behind a pattern of tiny holes and yellowing leaves. Leafhoppers are another major issue, as they love pepper plants and will spread the mosaic virus very quickly. To prevent pests, keep your garden beds clear in the fall so there isn't extra leaf debris for them to make a home of. You can also employ floating row covers to help protect your plants when they're not flowering. Preventing disease is also easier if you plant with good spacing, use well-draining soil, and rotate crops every few years.

Shishito pepper plant is a Japanese heirloom sweet variety with a slightly smoky, spicy flavor when cooked. Although it has a low Scoville rating of just 50 to 200, the versatility and flavor profile of these small, elongated, wrinkly fruits rival hot chiles for increasing popularity with pepper lovers and gardeners. You might be surprised, occasionally, with one that matches the heat of a mild jalapeño. Shishito is an easy-to-grow pepper that adapts to vegetable gardens, raised beds, pots, and hanging baskets and can even be grown as a houseplant. It's a warm weather plant, set out in late spring or early summer when soil and air temperatures reach averages of close to 70 degrees Fahrenheit. Shishito pepper matures quickly, with harvest beginning in about 65 days. Plants are prolific for producing up to 20 fruits each. How to Plant Shishito Pepper Shishito pepper seed can be direct sown in zones 8 to 10 once soil warms to 70 degrees Fahrenheit. Plan to purchase seedlings or start seeds indoors early if you live in cooler regions. When to Plant Shishito pepper seedlings should be planted around four weeks after the final frost when the soil temperature reaches 70 degrees Fahrenheit. Average daytime temperatures arebetween 70 and 85 degrees Fahrenheit and nighttime temperatures above 55 degrees Fahrenheit is the ideal climate. For growers in cool zones, start seeds indoors 8 to 10 weeks before the final frost. Selecting a Planting Site If you're planting in the ground, in a raised bed, or pots, choose an area that receives direct sunlight all day. Shishito peppers thrive with plenty of heat and light. They need fertile, neutral to slightly acidic soil that drains well. You can also grow Shishito pepper on a sunny windowsill. Spacing, Depth, and Support To transplant a Shishito pepper seedling, dig a hole slightly wider than the rootball: 8 inches deep. Remove the lowest set of leaves and set the seedling with the crown just below the soil surface. Avoid exposing roots to direct sunlight and water well beforehand to discourage transplant shock. Space plants in the garden 12 to 18 inches apart. Leave 24 to 36 inches between plants in a raised bed. Choose a pot 12 inches deep and wide with plenty of drainage holes. At just 2 feet tall, mature peppers do not need support, but a short stake prevents a plant, heavy with fruit, from toppling over. For direct sowing, plant seeds 1/4 inch deep and 12 to 18 inches apart in the garden or 24 to 36 inches apart in a raised bed. Cover with soil. You can plant several seeds in one wide, deep deep container. It may need to be thinned to one plant depending on the pot size. Shishito Pepper Plant Care Plant strong, healthy seedlings when soil and air reach ideal temperatures to avoid potential problems. Provide plenty of sun, adequate air circulation, water and fertilizer and Shishito pepper is easy to grow. Light This heirloom pepper benefits from direct sunlight all day long. Choose a spot that gets at least eight hours daily. Soil Peppers prefer soil rich in organic matter. Add aged compost before or at the time of planting. Soil pH should be neutral to slightly acidic at 6.0 to 6.8. Water Keep seedlings slightly moist by watering every other day to support a healthy root system. Once plants have grown, once-a-week watering is usually sufficient. Avoid overhead watering, maintain consistent moisture, and don't let the soil completely dry out. Drip irrigation is an ideal method for watering peppers. If you live in a dry climate, mulching around the base keeps roots cool and hydrated. Potted plants on the patio or indoors need more frequent watering. Depending on the growing conditions, it can be as often as daily. Water deeply at the base allowing all excess to drain. Temperature and Humidity Pepper plants thrive in hot, sunny conditions. Shishito pepper grows particularly well planted at least four weeks after the final frost when average daily temperatures are between 70 and 85 degrees Fahrenheit. If you're growing this pepper indoors, add a humidifier or set the plant on a pebble tray to boost the humidity level to 40 to 60 percent. Fertilizer Fertilize Shishito pepper every four to six weeks throughout the growing season. Working compost into the planting hole is ideal or add a balanced NPK fertilizer such as 10-10-10. Bloodmeal is an organic alternative that supplies nitrogen. When flowers appear, add bonemeal or an NPK fertilizer higher in phosphorous and potassium, 5-10-10 for example, to encourage flowering and fruiting. As fruits develop, a third application of balanced fertilizer, compost, or bloodmeal helps sustain healthy growth. Shishito peppers also respond well to water-soluble organic fertilizers like fish emulsion and seaweed extract. Fertilize peppers grown in pots more frequently, every two weeks. Pollination Shishito pepper flowers are self-pollinating but, when grown outdoors, are likely to be visited by insects that transfer pollen. Wind movement among plants and insects all contribute to fruit production. If you're growing Shishito pepper indoors, you can hand pollinate or gently sweep your hand through the foliage and flowers of the plant to encourage complete pollination and support better fruiting. Harvesting Shishito Pepper Experienced growers harvest Shishito pepper while still in its green stage, around 60 to 65 days after planting. Fully ripe peppers turn red and are edible, although you might lose flavor. Pick peppers as soon as they are 3 to 4 inches long. Leaving this thin-skinned variety on the vine too long causes it to thicken and makes it less palatable. Plants continue to produce fruit for up to 45 days in optimal conditions. Harvest in the morning for the best flavor and moisture content. Grasp peppers by the stem and gently twist them to remove the stem and fruit. You can also use a snipper. If any of the stem remains attached, the pepper will deteriorate quickly. Shishito peppers can be refrigerated in plastic bags for one week. Freeze excess peppers whole or char, skin, and de-seed them before freezing if you will be cooking with them. How to Grow Shishito Pepper in Pots This pepper grows well in containers, even hanging baskets. Choose one 12 inches deep and wide and fill it with potting soil and aged compost. Potting soil that does not contain inorganic fertilizer is best for germinating seeds. Plant seed 1/4 inch deep and cover lightly. Place the pot to receive full sun and keep the soil evenly moist. To transplant a pepper seedling into a pot, fill a 12-inch deep and wide container with quality potting mix. Dig an 8-inch deep hole, slightly wider than the root ball. Remove the lowest leaves and plant the crown just below the soil level. Adding aged compost to backfill encourages healthy growth. Place pots in a spot that receives full sun daily and keep the soil consistently moist. Propagating Shishito Pepper From Seed Shishito pepper germinates reliably from seed, sprouting anywhere from one to three weeks. You need a seed starting mix and small pots or a germination tray. Fill a germination tray or small pots with moistened, soilless seed starting mix. Plant seeds 1/4 inch deep and cover lightly with the mix. Place container/s in a warm location that receives bright, direct sun. Use grow lights and heating mats or bottom heat to aid germination. Keep seeds consistently moist but avoid overwatering, which can cause them to rot. Plastic domes or other covering help contain moisture. When seeds sprout, remove plastic if you're using it. When true leaves appear and stems are sturdy enough to handle, peppers can be transplanted into full size containers. Overwintering Even though peppers are an annual plant in most zones, they are perennial plants that can be overwintered for several years. Preparing for and encouraging them into dormancy gives an earlier start to next year's growing season with a plant with an established root system. You need a clean, sterile pot, fresh potting soil, a shovel or spade, and sterile clippers. Follow these steps. Fill the bottom of a clean pot with fresh potting soil. You can use a pot the same size as the one the pepper is growing in or choose one slightly smaller. If you plan to overwinter a pepper grown in the ground, select a pot 12 inches wide and deep. Use the clippers to cut back branches leaving two or three nodes per branch and removing all foliage. Slide the pepper out of its pot. If planted in the ground, use a shovel to dig a circle 8 inches out and deep from the main stem, then lift out the plant. Gently shake off excess soil and use your fingers to comb through and feather roots. You can rinse the remaining soil off with a hose. Place the bottom of the root ball on top of the soil and start filling in around the roots until the top of the root ball is covered. Water, let excess drain, then place the pot in a cool spot (55 to 65 degrees Fahrenheit) that receives indirect sun. Continue to remove any new leaves that form during the resting or dormancy period. Dormant pepper plants don't require much water. Once every two weeks is adequate. As temperatures approach 70 degrees Fahrenheit, start exposing the plant to outdoor conditions to harden it off. Peppers with an established root system adapt quickly to outdoor conditions. Common Pests and Plant Diseases Shishito pepper is susceptible to the same pests and diseases that affect all pepper plants. Pests to watch for include aphids and hornworms. The most prevalent fungal infection is powdery mildew and may require repeated treatments for control.

The Persian lime (Citrus × latifolia) is the most common and what you're most likely to find for sale in the grocery store. Growing a lime tree is easy and requires relatively little care if it's placed in the right conditions. It's known for its abundant fruiting habits, whether grown in the ground or in a container. Lime trees produce fruit in around three years. Plus, the tree is pretty to look at, bedecked with petite, ovular leaves and delicate white flowers. A dwarf lime tree is about half the size of a regular lime tree, whereas key lime trees are bushier and produce smaller, more tart key limes. Learning how to grow a lime tree is a great idea if you live in a warm climate and have an open spot in your landscape. See the steps below. How to Plant a Lime Tree A newly planted lime tree requires minimal care once it is established so long as it is planted in the right conditions and area. Selecting a Planting Site Pick a very sunny spot, one that gets at least 6 hours of direct light per day and is preferably south-facing. Consider how future plantings will impact the light and choose a spot where you know future plant growth or outdoor living structures will not impede it. Amend the Soil A lime tree loves organically rich soil. If that's not what you have, amend with compost and manure before planting. Choose a well-draining area; the lime tree does not tolerate wet conditions. To aid in drainage, you can add organic matter, sand, or perlite to the soil. You can also create a mound and add amendments to help things along. Pack the soil down firmly to prevent air pockets, since they hold water. Spacing, Depth, and Support Lime trees should be spaced 15 feet from the closest tree. Your tree should be planted in a hole the same depth and twice as wide as the rootball. Unless the tree is planted in a very windy location, staking should be unnecessary. Lime Tree Care Growing a Persian lime is easy as long as you provide it with the proper care; here are some requirements that will help your lime tree thrive: Provide your lime tree with full sun, for at least six hours. Ensure your tree is given enough water and proper drainage. Plant in an area with good organically rich soil or in a container with quality potting soil. Fertilizer is not necessary but will improve the tree's health. Keep your lime tree in a warm spot at 60-90 degrees Fahrenheit.. Light Sunlight is essential; your tree will produce as much fruit as possible and stays healthy in an area with full sun. Planting your tree in a sunny location is a great idea, but this is extra important for potted plants. Soil The lime tree enjoys rich soil loaded with organics that feed the tree with the necessary nutrients. At the same time, the soil needs to be moist, but well draining. Test your soil before planting and amend it as necessary. Water Give your lime tree plenty of water and keep the soil consistently moist to get the juiciest fruit possible. Use a soaker hose to keep the soil moist under the tree's canopy to a depth of 2 inches. When the soil is dry to the touch, water again. When you plant your tree, more frequent water is needed until it has established itself. Temperature and Humidity Lime trees are native to tropical areas, so recreating similar conditions would be ideal. Keep your lime tree in a warm area; they do not do well in cold conditions. Strictly adhering to the recommended USDA zones of 9 through 11 is your best bet. Fertilizer A Persian lime will do fine without feeding, but adding a fertilizer to your care regimen will increase the tree's vigor and fruit production. Fertilize your tree with an NPK formulation in a ratio of 2:1:2 three times a year. You can find citrus fertilizers with this formula at most garden centers. Apply in early winter, late spring, and mid summer. Pollination Unlike many fruit trees, you will not have to worry about planting two lime trees for pollination. The lime tree is self-pollinating, and there is no real increase in yield seen when multiple trees are present. Types of Lime Trees The Persian lime is the most commercially available lime in the world—and what you find in the supermarket. There are also a few other species that are grown for culinary purposes: Kaffir Lime (Citrus hystrix): Kaffir lime is another very popular lime tree that produces much less fruit and is less hearty. Key Lime (Citrus × aurantiifolia): A small, tart lime tree that produces limes used mostly for baking, the key lime tree is the third most popular lime commercially. Philippine Lime (Citrus × microcarpa): This lime tree is a hybrid between the kumquat and mandarin orange. Rangpur Lime (Citrus limonia): The rangpur lime is a popular hybrid of the citron and the mandarin orange. Harvesting Persian Limes The lime tree will grow limes year-round. Once fruit appears on the tree, it will take around five months to become large and ripen to a greenish yellow with soft, tender flesh. At that point, it is ready to harvest. How to Grow Lime Trees in Containers Growing a lime tree in a pot allows you to move the tree to the area that receives the most sun, is the most convenient location for watering, and is not as prone to cold temperatures that can damage the plant. A potted lime tree requires a bit more care than an in-ground lime tree. Here's how to care for it: Choosing a pot: Use a pot with drainage holes that are considerably bigger than your tree to give it room to grow. Select a good quality organic potting soil and add a mix of organic compost. Aim for a ratio of 5:1. This mixture will give your lime plenty to feed on and limit the need for much supplemental fertilizer. Location: Place your lime tree in a sunny place. If you decide to keep it indoors, you may need to add a grow light to supplement the lighting. A broad spectrum grow light will best mimic the light you need for an abundant harvest. Watering: Potted lime trees will need their water needs monitored closely as the container they are placed in can impact the soil's ability to hold moisture. The soil should be consistently moist. Temperature: If the temperature in your area goes below 50 degrees, you should bring your lime tree inside during the cold months. Pruning the Lime Tree Your lime tree will require very little pruning since it grows very slowly. Your biggest concern will be looking for damaged, dead, or dying branches. When the tree gets some height to it, it is a good idea to prune to allow for easy harvest, but this may be a job best done by a certified arborist since a mature lime tree will require a ladder to reach the top. Propagating a Lime Tree The Persian lime is a seedless variety, so the only option to propagate a lime tree is by taking cuttings. While this is possible, it is not recommended. You may get a viable tree that produces some fruit, but it won't be as healthy or successful as a purchased sapling. The common lime tree is a variety that is grafted onto the heartier rootstock of the bitter orange (Citrus aurantium). This species is highly disease resistant compared to the Persian lime and is much more tolerant of cooler temperatures. It is therefore a much better idea to buy a commercially sold lime tree. Your tree will be healthier, produce more, be more vigorous, and live longer. Common Pests & Plant Diseases Bitter-orange rootstock ensures the lime tree does not suffer from many root or trunk diseases. The biggest disease that should be on your radar is Citrus canker. It causes brown spots on the leaves, which can move to the fruit if left untreated. Use a soaker hose to defend against this disease, but a preventive spray of a copper fungicide every year can be prophylactic. Insects to be aware of are aphids, citrus mites, scale, and leaf miners. All are relatively harmless in mature trees and can be taken care of easily with neem oil.

Tomato plants are rapidly growing vines that need support, especially once the heavy fruits begin to ripen. Tomato cages are a practical, affordable option, especially when you're growing just a few plants. Cages are designed to provide structure, support vines, and keep fruit from contacting soil which causes it to rot. Gardeners have plenty of options regarding size, material, and ease of use, but there are several factors to consider when choosing the best tomato cage for your crop. Choose the Right Tomato Cage The sturdiest tomato cages are constructed of metal, steel, or wood and may or may not have a weather-resistant finish. Powder coating extends the life of the product and protects your hands from hot surfaces when working with your plants. Cages come in several shapes including square, triangular, cone-shaped, and rings. Standards differ according to shape but a cage between two and three feet wide and four and six feet tall accommodates most tomato varieties. Many offer adjustable horizontal bars that attach with connectors, allowing you to move them up the vertical stakes as needed. Vertical stakes extend at the bottom to anchor cages in the soil. Many fold for easy storage but cone-shaped cages take up more room in the garden shed, though they are usually the least costly. A mature plant supported correctly should not fall over or collapse the cage. Cages for Determinate Versus Indeterminate Tomatoes Determinate tomatoes produce fruit all at once which increases the weight load on vines. Plenty have a bushy growing habit with shorter, thicker vines to support multiple fruits. A cage four feet tall and two feet wide constructed with sturdy materials is usually adequate. Good air circulation is especially important for compact plants, so use a narrower cage to separate and evenly spread branching vines from bottom to top. Triangular or square-shaped cages work well for determinate tomatoes. Indeterminate tomatoes produce fruits all season, harvested as they ripen. This reduces weight load, however, vines often grow to 10 feet in length. A taller six-foot cone-shaped or square cage with a three-foot diameter is better suited for indeterminate tomato varieties. Cages with movable horizontal supports allow you to adjust as vines lengthen providing structure where the plant needs it most. Cages for Potted Tomatoes Growing tomatoes in pots limits your choices to cages that fit the diameter and depth of your pot. Anchor stakes should fit down inside the pot without bending. Cages as short as 15 inches and just six inches in diameter are available but keep your tomato variety, fruit size, and height of the mature plant in mind when selecting a cage support. When to Add Tomato Cages It's always a good idea to add cages at planting time. Add cages to potted tomatoes right after planting to make sure everything fits snugly and correctly. In the garden, you can wait until young plants begin to branch out, two to three weeks after transplanting. They are entering into vegetative growth when vines grow rapidly and root systems begin to spread. Waiting too long to place a cage can leave you stymied by a tangle of vines and anchor stakes can damage feeder roots. How a Tomato Cage Supports a Plant Tomato plants have a built-in anchor called a tap root that can extend into soil to depths of three feet, but this rarely balances out heavy top growth. Cages provide additional support and help you manage vines for better disease control and fruit production. Strong vines will support fruit. When the main stem begins to branch each new vine is attached to the lowest horizontal support, separated, and placed to balance growth evenly. As vines lengthen upwards they are attached to the next horizontal support in the same manner. The idea is to reinforce their weight-bearing capacity along as much length as possible. When used correctly, a tomato cage allows good air circulation in the plant's center. It prevents stress damage to vines that can weaken and break with heavy fruit or environmental factors like high winds. How to Add Tomato Cages to Your Plants Tomato cages are an easy way to get started with an uncomplicated, workable system for supporting your crop. Select a size and design based on your tomato variety. Position the cage with the planted tomato seedling in the center. Push the anchor stakes into the soil to a depth of eight inches applying pressure evenly on the top of the cage. Extensions on the bottom are designed to penetrate the soil easily, however, if you meet resistance, try applying pressure on the lower part of the cage first, or use a mallet to gently tap the top bars. Find a section on the first branching vine with a well-developed leaf and stem on either side and place a soft tie, like twine, on the vine below the leaves. The double "V" formed by the leaves prevents the vine from slipping. Tomato vines thicken as they mature so always allow space by tying them loosely to the cage. If the branch is already flowering or a small fruit has formed, leave extra room for it to develop or choose a different spot to attach. It's fine for fruit to develop inside the cage. Knot the twine against the bar of the cage. Knots placed against vines can rub, strip the surface and invite disease and pests. Follow the plant's natural upward growth pattern and avoid attaching vines in a way that stretches or pulls. New growth is flexible and can be positioned but tying it to a support can cause it to break or wilt. Heavy rain and high winds can displace tomato cages. Reset the cage, centering it, and gently ease the anchor stakes back into the soil. Single metal, wood, or bamboo stakes can be added and tied tightly to vertical cage supports if needed.

The butterfly pea plant, Clitoria ternatea, is a tropical, perennial, and climbing vine that blooms in the summer with flowers noted for producing natural dyes. Although they're mostly grown for their vivid blue, purple, and white flowers, their plants also produce long flat pods containing six to ten peas, which are edible when harvested young. Vines grow to ten feet in length but have a twining habit that keeps plants to a tidy three feet tall. Leaves are medium green and broader at the base tapering to a point. Native to Indonesia, this is a short-lived perennial that grows in USDA zones 9 to 11. It is cultivated as an annual in northern zones or grown in pots and overwintered indoors as a biennial. The blue flowers are edible and are a natural food coloring in Asian cuisine. They are added to beverages and are a popular ingredient in "Butterfly Pea Tea."1 Butterfly pea plant is widely grown as an ornamental and reclamation plant that fixes nitrogen in soil. How to Plant Butterfly Pea The butterfly pea is a hardy plant that requires warm growing conditions with plenty of sun. Easily grown from seed, both plants, and seeds are offered by specialty growers. When to Plant Start seeds indoors 8 to 10 weeks before the final frost in your growing zone, or directly sow the seed in the garden in early spring in zones 9 and higher. Purchased plants and seedlings can be planted in the garden when average air and soil temperatures reach 60 degrees F. Selecting a Planting Site Choose a location that receives 6 to 10 hours of bright direct sunlight daily. Making sure the soil is well-draining is essential. Spacing, Depth, and Support Direct sow seeds about 1 inch deep and 3 to 4 inches apart. Plant seedlings 6 to 10 inches apart and at the same level as in their original pot. To grow butterfly pea plants in pots, choose a container 6 inches deep and 12 to 14 inches in diameter. Sow seeds 1 inch deep and 2 inches apart. Thin to one or two per container once they reach 6 inches tall. Provide a support structure such as a trellis or grow them on a fence or wall. Butterfly Pea Plant Care Light Butterfly pea plants need lots of bright, direct sunlight for 6 to 10 hours daily. Avoid locations where the overhead canopy or neighboring plants cast shade. Soil Tolerant of soil type, this twining vine grows best in fertile, slightly sandy, and well-draining soils. Plants require a balanced pH of 6.0 to 8.0. Water Butterfly pea seedlings benefit from 1 inch of water per week. Once established, they are drought tolerant and need supplemental irrigation only in prevailing hot, dry conditions. Soil level irrigation is best for avoiding fungal infections like powdery mildew that can develop on wet leaves. Temperature and Humidity This is a tropical plant that prefers moist air and temperatures between 70 and 100 degrees F. Hardy only in U.S. zones 9 through 11, the butterfly pea plant does not survive frost and is grown as an annual or potted plant where average temperatures fall below 60 degrees F. Indoor plants benefit from frequent misting to raise the humidity level. Fertilizer Add well-aged manure, compost, or balanced NPK fertilizer at when planting. NPK liquid fertilizer higher in phosphorous and potassium boosts bloom for perennial plants when applied twice annually after pruning. Pollination Butterfly pea plants are perfect which means they have both male and female parts and are considered self-pollinating. The flower, however, requires assistance from bees to complete pollination and fertilization for the plant to produce peas. Potted plants grown indoors year-round will not produce fruit unless hand pollinated. Variety vs. Variety Clitoria mariana, also called Butterfly Pea, is an uncommon wildflower found in the southern U.S. which tends to sprawl along the ground. The flower color is violet-blue to lavender with purple centers rather than yellow as in Clitoria ternatea. All parts of both plants are edible however Clitoria mariana is considered a forage plant and not widely consumed. Harvesting Butterfly Pea Butterfly pea plants are grown for their flowers rather than the edible peas. The flowers open for only a day or two but can be harvested fresh, wilted, or dried. The greatest amount of pigment is extracted from fresh flowers, resulting in richer color in food and beverages. Slightly wilted flowers should be left to dry completely and dried flowers produce the best color when combined with hot water.2 To harvest peas, remove flowers to activate the growth of the pod. Harvest pods before peas are too large which causes them to become tough and flavorless. To harvest seeds, wait until pods dry and turn brown. How to Grow Butterfly Pea in Pots Pea plants tend to grow easily in containers as long as the soil drains well and support is included. Seeds can be started in flats in early spring and transplanted or sown directly into individual pots at least 6 inches deep and 12 inches in diameter. Butterfly pea plants are heat and drought-tolerant so keeping pots outdoors in summer and overwintering indoors is a viable option. Plants grow in clay, ceramic, and plastic pots. Fill the container with potting soil. Butterfly pea plants are not picky about soil type but adding compost to make up 1/4 of the mix provides nutrition for young plants. Starting with your own or a purchased seedling, plant it in the center of the pot at the same level as in the original container. Fill in around the roots and add a trellis or stake. Water thoroughly until water drains from the pot bottom. Place in a location that receives at least 6 hours of bright sunlight daily. Move the plant outdoors into the full sun when temperatures average 65 degrees F. daily. Once the plant is established and growing, allow the soil surface to dry before watering. When average daily temperatures drop below 60 degrees F. move the plant indoors to a sunny window. Prune regularly and often by cutting back the tips of vines. Pruning can be done any time of year to avoid a thin, leggy appearance. Pruning Pruning is needed to keep plants compact and bushy. Prune your butterfly pea plant often by removing growing tips. Deadheading flowers increases flower production. If you want to save seeds for propagation or harvest edible peas for cooking, leave flowers on the vine. Harvest edible peas while still small or remove pods when they become brown and dry. Propagating Butterfly Pea Butterfly pea plant grows easily from cuttings taken from mature plants. Gather a snipper, a pot at least 6 inches deep and 12 inches wide, and potting soil. Take the cutting from an older, woodier portion of the vine. Pruned growing tips do not root well. Choose a section 3 to 5 inches long with a bud at the top. Remove lower leaves and place the cutting in a glass of water or dip the bottom in rooting hormone and plant in potting soil. Placed in water or soil, cutting produces roots in two to three weeks, followed quickly by flowers that open as early as three weeks once the plant is established. Keep soil moist and place potted seedlings in a warm, moist location. The morning sun is best with some afternoon shade to allow young plants to acclimate. How to Grow Butterfly Pea From Seed If you are growing butterfly pea plants in pots, allowing seed production is a good way to keep this plant going. Seeds can also be purchased at some greenhouses, online, and from specialty growers. To propagate from seed, you need a sharp knife, flats, or containers 6 inches deep and 12 inches wide, and potting medium. Butterfly pea seeds are not reliable germinators. Choose mature, aged seeds that are hard, and dark brown. To check for viability, pour seeds into a bowl of water. Discard seeds that don't float. Use the sharp knife to nick each seed to allow for better water absorption. Soak seeds in water for 24 hours. Fill the flat or pot with a light potting mix made up of 25 percent compost. Plant seeds 1 inch deep. In pots, space them 4 to 6 inches apart. Seeds sown in flats can be thinned or transplanted into pots or the garden once seedlings have three sets of leaves. Do not plant outdoors until average daily temperatures reach 60 degrees F. Keep seedlings moist. Germination is most successful in temperatures above 80 degrees F. Germination occurs from six days up to three weeks. Nicking and soaking seeds improve the time to germination. Vines grow rapidly, however average time for plants to flower is 90 days. Potting and Repotting Butterfly Pea Repotting annually is recommended to replenish soil nutrients. Plants are also potted up into containers 2 to 3 inches larger once they've doubled in size. Turn the plant's pot on its side, grasp the base of the plant, and gently work it loose from the pot. Add fresh potting material, choosing a larger pot when necessary. Replant and water. Overwintering Gardeners north of zone 9, need to bring potted plants indoors when average daily temperatures drop below 60 degrees F. Place the pot in a location that receives at least 6 hours of direct sunlight daily. Close to a south-facing window works well. Indoor temperatures need to stay consistently above 60 degrees F., so avoid drafty spots. Add a humidifier or mist the plant frequently to mimic moist, tropical conditions. Allow the soil surface to dry between waterings and continue to prune as needed. Common Pests and Plant Diseases Butterfly pea is not vulnerable to many diseases or pests. Spider mites and aphids can be a problem but can be knocked down with a strong spray of water. Treat infestations with horticultural oil. Overwatering can lead to bacterial soft rot, mold, and mildew.

Anticipation is likely one of the reasons it seems to take forever for your tomatoes to turn red. Dozens of varieties exist and tomatoes are fairly easy to grow, but it's the fresh, juicy taste and texture that make tomatoes the most popular crop grown in home gardens across the United States.1 Waiting for them to ripen to perfect red can seem endless, but besides anticipation there are several non emotion-based reasons for why your tomatoes are still green. Here are some of the most common reasons why your tomatoes aren't turning red, plus what you can do to speed up the ripening process. Temperature Too Hot or Too Cold Temperature is one of the bigger factors for ripening tomatoes and a few degrees too hot or too cold puts the process on hold or even stops ripening altogether. The ideal temperature tomatoes need to acquire their red color is 68 to 77 degrees F.2 At 85 degrees, the production of lycopene ceases leaving large green fruits on the vine until temperatures lower to more better levels. Temperatures consistently below 60 degrees F. also inhibit ripening. Fruits that are fully mature and have a slight blush can be harvested and brought indoors to finish ripening. They do not need to sit in a sunny window as long as the correct temperature is provided. Too Much Direct Sunlight Even though it might seem counterintuitive, too much sun exposure can slow down ripening. The heat is more important than light for ripening, and too much bright, hot, direct sunlight can raise temperatures to levels that inhibit lycopene production. Pruning leaves away from mature tomatoes to give them more sun exposure can also cause sunscald and cracking. Too Much Water Tomato plants need 1 to 2 inches of water per week when vines are actively growing and producing fruit. But once fruits reach their mature size, ripening occurs more quickly if irrigation is reduced or even stopped completely. Less water stresses the tomato plant and sends it into survival mode. The plant will focus energy into producing viable seed, which helps accelerate ripening. Insufficient Nutrients Tomatoes require a lot of nutrients and micronutrients throughout the growing season. Phosphorous and potassium are particularly important for the production and synthesis of lycopene in the fruits. Insufficient amounts can cause slow or uneven ripening. When the first small fruits appear on the plant, feed with a fertilizer higher in phosphorous such as and NPK 5-10-5. Too Much Nitrogen Tomato plants benefit from an application of balanced fertilizer such as an NPK 10-10-10 early in the season. This supports vine and foliage growth and encourages good root development and flower production. Once mature fruits are on the vine, fertilizing with a product that contains too much nitrogen can take away from ripening by refocusing energy on foliage growth. Once green fruits have reached a fully mature size, withhold fertilizer and allow the natural processes of ripening to take place in the fruit. Lack of Pruning Limiting the number of vines on a plant by removing early suckers is another way to focus energy into the production and ripening of fruit. Not every vine produces fruit and plants with unproductive vines or vines overloaded with fruit will struggle. This is especially true for determinate type tomato plants that produce many fruits all at the same time. Early pruning of your tomato plants results in higher quality fruit that ripens more easily and quickly. It's Not Supposed to Be Red It's important to understand, starting out, what your tomato type will look like when fully ripe. Many varieties ripen to different shades of red or may be orange, pink, purple and even striped. If you're waiting for your tomato to turn red, make sure that's the color it's supposed to be when it's ready to pick. Check your seed package for how many days to harvest for the tomato variety you've chosen. Some varieties need more or less growing time and may not work as well in your climate.

Tomato plants (Solanum lycopersicum) are beloved by gardeners, with over 10,000 possible types to grow.1 These leafy annuals grow juicy, flavorful fruits in shades of red, yellow, orange, purple, pink, brown, and green. Plant tomatoes in late spring or early summer once all danger of frost has passed. Depending on the variety, tomatoes can be ready to harvest anywhere from 42 to 110 days from germination. Here's a guide for how to grow tomato plants, including finding the best planting location, care requirements, and harvesting. How to Plant Tomatoes When to Plant Plant tomato seedlings outdoors after all danger of frost has passed and night temperatures are consistently above 50 degrees Fahrenheit. Store-bought and home-grown seedlings need to be hardened off before planting outdoors. When the weather is warm enough, begin hardening off the seedlings by bringing them outdoors in the shade for a few hours each day, gradually increasing how much light they receive and their time outdoors. Once night temperatures are consistently above 50 degrees, you can transplant tomato seedlings outdoors. Where to Plant Choose a well-drained planting site with loamy soil and eight hours of direct sunlight daily. Practice crop rotation: wait three years before planting tomatoes in a bed where you've grown other crops in the nightshade family (tomatoes, eggplants, potatoes, peppers, and tomatillos) to help keep plants disease-free. Water tomato plants well before planting. How to Plant Plant tomatoes 18 to 24 inches apart, three to four feet between rows, for proper airflow.2 Indeterminate varieties need more space than determinate varieties because they don't stop growing until frost kills the plant. Check seed packets and seedling tags for spacing guidelines for your plant varieties. To transplant tomato seedlings, dig a planting hole deep enough so the soil line is below the bottom-most healthy leaves. Planting deeply means digging the planting hole deep enough that 2/3 of the main stem is buried underground. Remove a few sets of the bottom leaves to create a longer stem. Only 1/3 of the plant should be visible above ground. The stem will develop roots from any part buried in the soil, which leads to extra-strong plants. A bigger root system means your plants can absorb more water and nutrients, resulting in a healthier plant that is less susceptible to drought, disease, and attack by tomato pests. How to Start Seeds Indoors Start tomatoes from seed indoors six to eight weeks before your region's first frost date. Fill seed trays with soilless seed starting mix and moisten the soil well. Plant tomato seeds a quarter-inch deep and cover them with soil. Put the trays in a warm place under a grow light. When the seedlings are two to three inches tall, pot them up into three-inch pots, burying them up to the lowest leaves. How to Grow Tomato Plants in Pots Because they grow only to a specific size, determinate tomatoes (sometimes called bush tomatoes) are ideal for container planting, although some indeterminate types are bred for pot planting. Use a high-quality soilless potting mix that's light and drains well while holding onto necessary moisture. Mix in organic compost before planting to add fertility. Use 14- to 20-inch pots with ample drainage holes; the larger, the better. Tomatoes planted in containers generally benefit from cages or other supports. Keep them well-watered because container plants dry out more quickly in hot weather than in-ground plants. Tomato Plant Care Light Tomatoes require eight hours or more of direct sunlight daily to grow, flower, and fruit. In warmer regions like the southern United States, tomatoes might benefit from afternoon shade during the hottest times. Soil Plant tomatoes in a site with rich, well-drained soil. Choose a spot with soil that is slightly acidic loam or sandy loam. Work organic matter into the soil in the autumn or a few weeks before you plan to plant. Water Water tomato plants regularly to ensure they receive at least one inch per week. Consistent watering will help produce the best-quality fruit. Apply water directly to the soil at the plant's root zone rather than sprinkling water overhead and wetting the foliage. Keeping the foliage dry will reduce the chance of fungal diseases. Mulching with organic material like hay, straw, or grass clippings not treated with pesticides can help retain soil moisture.3 Temperature and Humidity Tomatoes can grow well at various humidity levels but need warm temperatures to survive and thrive. Temperatures below 50 degrees Fahrenheit can stunt growth and damage the plant's ability to produce flowers and fruit. Daytime temperatures above 85 degrees can cause blossom drop4, but you can help plants withstand the heat by mulching the soil around plants and keeping them well watered. Fertilizer Tomato plants require nutrient-rich soil to grow and produce healthy fruit. To ensure your tomato plants receive the nutrients they need, a soil test can help you determine the soil contents, lacking nutrients, and the type of fertilizer your soil needs for good tomato growth. If the soil is rich and fertile or has enough organic matter or compost before planting, you might not need to apply additional fertilizer throughout the growing season.3 However, tomato plants usually benefit from fertilizer application at several different points in their growth cycle. To encourage more flowering and fruiting rather than foliage growth, choose a fertilizer that's higher in phosphorous and lower in nitrogen.5 Pollination Tomatoes are self-fertile, meaning you don't need more than one plant for pollination. Movement from the wind is usually adequate to ensure pollination. However, adding a few summer-blooming annuals to the vegetable beds is ideal to attract pollinators such as bees and other insects. In high tunnels or greenhouses, growers use strategies like tapping tomato cages or stakes to help move pollen from the male to the female parts of the flower.6 However, a few different issues can cause pollination issues. High daytime temperatures (over 90 degrees F) and low night temperatures (under 50 degrees F) can inhibit pollination and cause blooms to drop before they can set fruit. Insufficient water can also cause issues with flowering and pollination, and so can applying fertilizer that is too high in nitrogen, which causes plants to put energy toward foliage growth instead of flowering and fruiting.7 Types of Tomato Plants Tomatoes are treasured for their taste and nutritional benefits, which include phytochemicals and nutrients like lycopene, potassium, iron, folate, vitamin C, and other antioxidants.8 There are thousands of tomato varieties, including lower classifications, from heirlooms to hybrids.1 Tomato plant growth habits are also divided into two main categories: determinate and indeterminate. Determinate Tomato Plants Determinate tomatoes mature relatively early, growing to a mature size of three to four feet tall. All fruit on the plant ripens within roughly two weeks, and then plants die back. Because determinate tomato plants are usually compact, they're great for container growing and don't require heavy staking as indeterminate tomatoes do. Determinate tomatoes are often used for sauce and canning. Other determinate types are: Roma: This plum tomato produces heavy yields of medium, rich red, meaty fruit. Celebrity (Solanum lycopersicum 'Celebrity'): Determinate celebrity tomatoes are disease-resistant and prolific, with the added bonus that they fruit from when plants reach their mature size until frost. But unlike indeterminate tomatoes, they don't keep growing larger as the season progresses. Rutgers: This heirloom variety, in production since 1934, produces bright red fruit with heavy walls and great disease resistance. It ripens evenly, inside and out, making it an easy-care cultivar that is equally delicious, fresh, cooked, or preserved. Marglobe: This variety is adaptable to various soils and produces thick-walled fruit. It is very good to eat fresh or canned. Indeterminate Tomato Plants Indeterminate tomatoes include most cherry tomato varieties, heirloom tomatoes, and beefsteak tomatoes. Instead of growth stopping once fruit sets, indeterminate tomatoes will keep growing and fruiting until the first fall frost kills the plant. Because they keep growing, they require sturdy staking and regular pruning. They're also better suited to in-ground planting. Here are a few popular varieties: Better Boy (Solanum lycopersicum 'Better Boy'): This popular indeterminate slicing tomato offers disease resistance, relatively early harvest, and sizeable one-pound fruits. Yellow Pear (Solanum lycopersicum 'Yellow Pear'): Known for its clusters of sweet, pear-shaped yellow tomatoes, this indeterminate variety dates back to the early 19th century. Green Zebra (Solanum lycopersicum' Green Zebra'): A cross between four different heirloom tomatoes, this indeterminate "heirloom hybrid" is prized for its bright flavor and chartreuse color. Pink Brandywine (Solanum lycopersicum 'Brandywine'): This indeterminate, easy-to-grow heirloom offers hefty, flavorful fruits in a beautiful blush shade. Varieties of Tomatoes: Early Season, Mid-Season, and Late-Season Another factor to consider when choosing tomato varieties is how long it takes for fruits to mature and be ready to harvest. Early-season varieties will grow ripe, ready-to-harvest fruit in 42 to 70 days. Mid-season tomatoes mature in around 70 to 80 days, while late-season varieties take 80 to 110 days to mature. Pruning Pruning tomatoes can offer several benefits, such as earlier harvests, disease resistance, and larger fruits. It's recommended to pinch or prune away the suckers—shoots that grow out of the axils where leaves meet stems—in indeterminate tomato varieties. This allows plants to direct energy towards fruiting rather than excess leaf growth and keeps plants tidier and generally easier to maintain. While determinate varieties are not always pruned, plants can develop stronger stems if you remove suckers that grow below the lowest flower.5 Harvesting Tomatoes Harvest tomatoes when fruits have fully colored, with a firm yet supple texture and healthy size for their variety. Ripe tomatoes will have smooth, shiny skin. Use scissors or pruners to cut stems when harvesting because pulling fruits off the vine can damage the plant. When a frost is forecast, remove all fruit from in-ground plants. Propagating Tomato Plants You can use the suckers you remove from your plants to propagate new plants.9 Desuckering and Rooting Tomatoes. Clemson Cooperative Extension. Here's how: Pinch or prune off a good-sized sucker from a mature tomato plant. Remove the leaves on the lower half of the sucker stem. Poke a hole in the soil nearby, leaving adequate space between plantings. Plant the sucker in the hole. Roots will grow along the portion of the sucker's stem that is below the soil line. When you see new growth, you'll know the sucker has rooted. You can leave it in place or dig it up and relocate it to another area of your garden. Care for the plant as you would any tomato plant. Common Pests and Plant Diseases Tomatoes can fall prey to diseases and garden pests. Plant disease-resistant varieties and prevent issues with crop rotation, applying water to the soil and root zone rather than wetting the foliage with overhead watering, cutting away lower branches that might come into contact with soil, pruning suckers, and giving plants adequate space to enable airflow. Tomato diseases can be fatal if you don't identify, treat, and try to prevent them from occurring. Treat insects like aphids by spraying them off with water or treating plants with neem or horticultural oil. Some pests, like tomato hornworms, must be picked off by hand.

If you love a low-acid, sweet tomato, then Sungold is a perfect choice. A golden yellow cherry tomato, Sungold, Lycopersicon esculentum 'Sungold', is a hybrid indeterminate tomato that matures in 55 to 65 days and produces fruit in clusters throughout the growing season. You'll need stakes or cages because the vines can grow up to 10 feet.1 While the fruit is delicious, the vines and leaves are toxic to humans2 and pets3 if consumed. How to Plant Sungold Tomatoes When to Plant Sungold tomatoes should be planted in the spring after all threat of frost has passed. If you are starting plants from seed, they should be started indoors about four weeks before your area's last projected frost date and then planted outside when seedlings are at least 6-inches tall. Selecting a Planting Site Sungold tomatoes require a site with full sun and loamy, nutrient-rich soil with good drainage. If planting in a garden, practice crop rotation to prevent disease spread and nutrient depletion of the soil from last year's crops. Sungold tomatoes also thrive in containers placed in a sunny spot. Spacing, Depth, and Support Sungold tomatoes produce long vines and clusters of fruit. To control them and keep the fruit off the ground. they need a support structure for the vines, such as a tomato cage. Plants should be spaced at least four feet apart in the garden to ensure good air circulation and room for the support structure. Seedlings should be planted in a hole about twice the size of their root ball and placed into the ground at the same level as they grew in their container. If the seedling was grown in a peat pot, be sure the entire pot is buried below the soil surface because an exposed peat pot wicks moisture from the soil. Sungold Tomato Plant Care Light Sungold tomatoes need full sun for six to eight hours per day. Less light results in slower growth and less fruit. Soil Slightly acidic, 6.0-6.8 pH, soil in the garden helps Sungold tomatoes thrive and bear lots of fruit. The soil should be well-drained, loamy, and nutrient-rich. A soil test is the best way to determine the nutrient level in your soil and its pH. If growing Sungold tomatoes in containers, use organic potting soil not soil dug directly from the garden. It is too heavy for container grown plants. Water All tomatoes must be watered deeply and regularly, especially those planted in containers. Provide 1 to 1 1/2 inches of water per week. Poke your finger into the soil and if it is dry at 2 inches deep, provide water. The soil should not be allowed to dry out because keeping the soil evenly moist helps prevent blossom end rot. Water at the root level to prevent the spread of tomato diseases. Avoid overwatering which can lead to root rot and splitting tomatoes. Add mulch once plants are established to help retain moisture. Temperature and Humidity For optimum growth, do not plant Sungold tomatoes until soil temperature has reached at least 60 degrees Fahrenheit. Harden off seedlings by gradually exposing them to outdoor conditions before planting them in the garden. Humidity isn't an issue for tomatoes unless it is excessive. Too much humid weather causes wet foliage for extended periods and creates a climate for fungal diseases. Fertilizer Unless a soil test has other recommendations, prepare garden soil by working in 2 to 3 pounds per 100 square feet of a complete fertilizer (10-10-10 NPK). A high-nitrogen fertilizer is not recommended; it can result in luxuriant foliage but delayed flowering and fruiting. Give new plants a head start by using a diluted liquid starter fertilizer high in phosphorus for strong root development. For container-grown Sungolds, fertilize regularly, at least once a month. Use a water-soluble application at half-strength to provide a constant source of nutrients. Pollination Sungold tomatoes self-pollinate and attract bees and other pollinators to the garden. Types of Sungold Tomatoes A similar tomato is SunSugar. The fruits are golden yellow, sweeter, and with a slightly thicker skin t less prone to cracking. Harvesting Sungold Tomatoes Although Sungold tomatoes grow in clusters of 10 to 20 fruits, it is best to harvest each cherry tomato separately. If picked while they are bright yellow, the fruit will be firm and tart. If allowed to ripen to a deep golden color, they will be soft, sweet, and easy to remove from the vine. Sungolds never turn red, no matter how long they stay on the vine. If cared for correctly, the plant will continue to produce fruit until the first frost in the fall. How to Grow Sungold Tomatoes in Pots If you don't have space for a garden, Sungold tomatoes can be easily grown in pots. Choose a large pot, around 5-gallons, with good drainage holes. Add a treellis or tomato cage while the seedlings are young to provide support for the vines. Use good potting soil and water regularly (one to two gallons of water per day) because the container will dry out quickly. Other than transferring seedlings to the garden or a large container, Sungold tomatoes should not be repotted once they are established. Pruning Sungold Tomatoes Regular pruning helps Sungold tomatoes produce more fruit than foliage. Use garden snips to remove suckers, or small stems, growing from the main stem next to a leaf cluster. These suckers tend to produce foliage but not fruit. Without them, the plant can focus energy on the fruit-bearing stems. Prune any stems touching the ground to prevent disease. Propagating Sungold Tomatoes You can clone Sungold tomatoes from cuttings. You need a small pot with soilless potting mix and good drainage and sterile pruners. Once the parent plant is healthy and actively growing follow these steps: Find a 6- to 8-inch sucker coming off the main stem with no buds or flowers on it and remove it with the pruner. Strip the leaves on the lower half of the cutting. Plant the cutting in a small container with moistened soilless potting mix. Place the container in bright, indirect sunlight. Keep the growing medium moist but not soggy. Roots should develop in a week or two. If you feel resistance when you gently tug on the cutting, you’ll know it has roots. It can then be transplanted into the garden. How to Grow Sungold Tomatoes from Seed About six weeks before the last predicted frost, start your Sungold tomato seeds indoors. You need seed starting trays and mix, heating mat, plastic dome or covering, and small pots with drainage holes. Fill trays with seed starting medium and moisten the medium until it is damp but not soaked. With a pointed stick, make a hole about 1/8th of an inch deep and place one seed in each one of the seed tray's cells. Place the tray on top of the heating mat in front of a sunny window and cover the tray. Check daily to ensure the soil remains moist, misting with a spray bottle as needed. The seeds should germinate in 5 to 10 days. Keep covered until the plants touch the cover, at which point remove the cover. When plants are around 5 to 6 inches tall, transplant them into individual pots and continue to water until transplanted. When outdoor temperatures reach a steady 50° Fahrenheit at night, you can take the plants outdoors to allow them to harden up before planting. After 10 days, you can transplant the Sungold tomato plants into the garden. Overwintering Sungold tomatoes are annuals that complete their life cycle in one growing season and do not overwinter. Harvest the last tomatoes before the first frost and discard vines. Common Pest and Plant Diseases Sungold tomatoes are resistant to Verticillium wilt (V), fusarium (F), and tobacco mosaic virus (TMV). However, they can be affected and are subject to pests like tomato hornworms. Help prevent problems by providing ample growing space, using a support structure to keep them off the ground, and watering at the roots only. Aphids are a common problem with tomatoes. While the plants can tolerate a number of them without loss, infestations can pose a larger problem. Aphids are tiny bugs that come in colors red, green, white, or black. Signs of an aphid infestation include curled and yellow leaves as well as reduced tomato production. You can control aphids with natural methods such as spraying with water and companion planting (marigolds, onion, and garlic as good choices). If these don't work, you can also opt to use insecticidal sprays.

Fertilizing strawberries is different from many other edible crops. That's because managing nutrients correctly depends on whether they are June-bearing or day-neutral.Feeding plants for even, balanced growth is key to harvesting a good crop and keeping your patch producing for more than one year. Here’s what you need to know about fertilizing strawberries for healthy growth and maximum crop size. Before You Fertilize Always plant strawberries in rich, nutrient-dense soil first and foremost. Maintaining the right pH is essential for the fertilization process to benefit your strawberry crop. Test pH before adding fertilizer for a slightly acidic level of 5.3 to 6.5. Too much nitrogen can raise acidity and inhibit root growth resulting in poor flower and fruit development. Not enough nitrogen can cause stunting and crop failure. When to Fertilize Strawberries For both day-neutral and June-bearing strawberries, fertilizing begins before planting. These berries use lots of nitrogen to produce runners and set fruit, so it's important to start out with slightly acidic, rich, well-draining soil. Work in compost, well-rotted manure, or peat and add a balanced, slow-release NPK fertilizer into the top 6 inches two weeks before planting. To fertilize potted strawberry plants, use a combination of quality potting mix, compost, and granular fertilizer. The goal of fertilizing is to maintain pH level while supplying enough nitrogen for roots and foliage but not at the expense of flowers and fruit. A slow-release NPK 10-10-10 or 20-20-20 is the best choice starting out. Plenty of organic alternatives are available including blood meal, which contains a good percentage of nitrogen. When to Fertilize June Bearing Strawberries Fertilize June-bearing strawberries in mid to late summer. Strawberry seedlings are planted in spring but berries grow from buds formed the previous autumn. In the first planting year, June-bearing types need the entire summer season to establish roots strong enough to support a crop. All flowers are removed and plants are fertilized once in August. In subsequent years, beds are renovated following harvest. (Renovating a strawberry bed means thinning existing plants and allowing the runners to become new plants. If you don't renovate at least every other year, the roots choke each other out.) Feed plants in mid to late July, after renovating, to encourage healthy bud production in autumn. When to Fertilize Day-Neutral Strawberries In the first year of growing, day-neutral strawberries fertilize when fruits appear after the second flush of flowers. First flowers are removed so add the first feeding in mid-summer. Use a balanced 10-10-10, or, if plants appear weak, an organic application of bloodmeal should boost growth. If flowering is spotty, bonemeal supports root growth and encourages flowering. Organic products can be applied every six weeks but should be discontinued at the end of the growing season. In subsequent years, fertilize day-neutral strawberries in early spring as soon as new leaves appear. Use a balanced NPK 10-10-10 or 20-20-20. Apply a second feeding when fruit starts to develop. Foliar sprays and compost tea can be added as often as every two weeks to boost fruit production. When to Fertilize Strawberries Grown in Pots Fertilize strawberries grown in pots when leaves first appear in spring and again when berries start to form. Feed the plants every two weeks with compost tea or a foliar spray for continued flower and fruit production during active growth. If you plan to overwinter your pot for a second season, don’t fertilize during winter months. How to Fertilize Strawberries Strawberries are short-lived perennial plants that grow from shallow-rooted crowns. They mature rapidly and produce runners that terminate in new crowns. Beds are planted using a matted row or hill method, though strawberries are commonly grown in containers. The best way to fertilize strawberries depends on the method of planting. Matted Row Method Matted rows are fertilized to encourage runners and support the root growth of new immature plants. Water the planting bed first, then use a watering can or hose with a fertilizer attachment to evenly distribute a water-based fertilizer. Apply the mixture as close to ground level as possible and feed plants early in the day to allow wet foliage to dry before nightfall. June-bearing plants are usually grown in matted rows. Hill Method The hill method treats strawberry plants as short-lived perennials by removing runners and concentrating growth in the initial plant which grows fairly large and produces larger berries. It is used more often with day-neutral and everbearing varieties. Hilled strawberry plants are fertilized to support the continued health of the initial planting. Water-based, granular, or powdered fertilizers can be used since plants are spaced to allow side dressing worked in with a hoe or tiller. Water the bed well following application. Container Method Choose day-neutral strawberries to grow in containers. Berries grown in pots are treated as short-lived perennials and may produce for several seasons, but plants are often replaced every year. Strawberries grown in pots need to be fertilized every two weeks. Use a water-based product and water the pot first. Compost tea and foliar sprays are good choices. Water and fertilize at soil level early in the day to allow any wet foliage to dry before nightfall.