flowers

Butterfly weed is a milkweed plant that attracts butterflies to the garden with its clusters of bright orange-to-yellow blooms rich with nectar and pollen. This clump-forming perennial grows two feet tall from tuberous roots with glossy green, lance-shaped leaves. It requires at least eight hours of full sun and well-draining soil and can handle a wide range of temperatures, from freezing to high heat. Unlike other milkweeds, butterfly weed does not have caustic milky sap, but it is still considered mildly toxic to humans and animals. Butterfly Weed Care Plant butterfly weed in late spring after the soil warms. Do not expect it to bloom the first year; flowering may take three years. Blooms last about two months, from late spring until late summer. A. tuberosa produces seed pods that release silky-tailed seeds to disperse on the wind. Here are the main care requirements for growing butterfly weed: Grow butterfly weed in a sunny spot with well-draining soil. Sow seeds directly in the garden—butterfly weed does not require much tending to to thrive, Water a new plant well during its first growing season, but the plant will prosper even in drought-like conditions when established. Its seed pods will turn brown towards the end of the growing season (early autumn) and will burst to spread seeds throughout your garden, which emerge as new volunteer plants the following spring. While the plant can take up to three years to fully mature and produce flowers, its blooms will gradually grow denser with each season that passes. Light Choose a spot in your garden that boasts bright sunlight daily, as this plant loves to soak up the rays. Full sun is your best bet. Soil Butterfly weed can prosper in various soil conditions and compositions, from sand to gravel, and it generally prefers a neutral to slightly acidic pH. Water During its first year of life (or until new plants start showing mature growth), you should maintain a moist soil environment for butterfly weed, giving it about one inch of water per week through combined rainfall and irrigation. Once the plant appears well-established, you can cut back to watering it only occasionally, as it prefers dry soil. An extensive, deep taproot helps it thrive even in dry conditions. Mature plants can do well with just monthly watering in all but the driest climates. Temperature and Humidity Butterfly weed thrives in various temperature and humidity settings, growing well in zones 3 to 9. Generally, the plant emerges in late spring, hitting its peak bloom during the warmer summer months and drying on the stem throughout the autumn and winter. It handles high humidity and arid climates equally well, provided it gets adequate soil moisture. Fertilizer Butterfly weed is a low-maintenance plant that does not require any additional fertilization. Doing so can harm the plant, making it excessively leggy and reducing blooms. Types of Butterfly Weed There are several named cultivars of this plant. Most varieties, as well as the native species, are orange. But some popular varieties offer color variations: 'Hello Yellow' is a variety with bright yellow flowers. 'Gay Butterflies' has decidedly reddish flowers. 'Western Gold Mix' has golden-orange flowers and is bred primarily for the alkaline soils of the western United States. Pruning Butterfly Weed Though butterfly weed does not need much pruning throughout the year, it can be cut back to the ground ahead of winter. In late autumn, the leaves on the butterfly weed begin to yellow, and the stems dry out and turn brown. This is a sign that the plant is entering dormancy for the season. You can take a clean set of pruning shears and cut the plant to the ground, where it will stay until it reemerges in spring. Propagating Butterfly Weed Propagating butterfly weed from stem cuttings is easily achieved. Here are the basic steps: Select a healthy stem that's about half a foot long. Pinch off the leaves of the bottom half. Place the cutting in a jar of water. Wait a couple of weeks, and you will begin to see roots forming. Once the roots are a few inches long, plant the cutting in its own small pot. Allow the cutting to establish itself in the pot, keeping the soil moist while the plant grows roots. Transplant the new plant in a few weeks. How to Grow Butterfly Weed From Seed Typically, the easiest and most successful way to add butterfly weed to your garden is to grow it from seed. Plant fresh seeds in the fall for growth the following spring, or allow any established butterfly weeds already in your garden to do the work for you. Beginning in late summer or early fall, the plants should develop seed pods at the base of the pollinated blooms. If left on the stem, the pods will eventually burst, and the seeds inside will be blown throughout your garden, allowing them to establish themselves in the soil in time for the following year. If you'd rather have more control over the eventual location of any new butterfly weed plants, you can remove the seed pods from the plant before they burst open and simply plant new seeds by hand instead. If you want to start seed indoors, the seeds need cold stratification. Here's how to do it: Place seeds in moist seed starting mix in a container. Cover with a lid and leave in the refrigerator for two months. Remove from the refrigerator eight weeks before the last expected frost, and place in a warm spot under grow lights. Do not let seeds dry out. Once the seedlings have two sets of true leaves, pot them in potting soil and continue to grow inside. As temperatures warm outside and all danger of frost has passed, harden off seedlings for a week, then transplant them in the garden. Potting and Repotting Butterfly Weed Butterfly weed doesn't usually fare well with transplantation as an older plant because of its long, knobby taproot. But you can reliably grow butterfly weed from seed in potting containers. Butterfly weed will grow easily in a 10 to 12-inch deep pot with ample drainage holes. It does not need repotting or its soil refreshed. It thrives in poor soil, returning each year in the spring after emerging from dormancy. Overwintering Overwintering butterfly weed is a simple matter of cutting off the plant stem near ground level as soon as the plant succumbs to cold temperatures in the fall or early winter. There is no harm in leaving the plant stalks in place, though this encourages rampant self-seeding, which is usually not desired. Don't mulch over the root crowns, as this can promote rot. Common Pests and Plant Diseases In most circumstances, butterfly weed is largely trouble-free, but it can be susceptible to root rot if planted in dense soil with too much moisture. It can also be vulnerable to fungal diseases such as rust and other leaf spots, though these are usually merely cosmetic and not fatal.1 The plant can be susceptible to aphid damage, which usually is controlled by lady beetles and other predator insects.1 The plant hosts many butterflies, including monarchs, so expect the leaves to be eaten. Do not use pesticides on milkweed. How to Get Butterfly Weed to Bloom Bloom Months Butterfly weed blooms from June to August. How Long Does Butterfly Weed Bloom? The butterfly weed blooms are long-lasting and make a good cut flower. They also dry well. What Do Butterfly Weed Flowers Look and Smell Like? Small, star-shaped flowers in bright orange appear in a large, flat, or dome-shaped cluster atop hairy stems. The flowers have a mildly sweet, candy-like fragrance How to Encourage More Blooms Butterfly weed is not difficult to cultivate and should bloom freely once mature (which can take up to three years). If you're struggling to get your butterfly weed to bloom, a few factors could be at play. It's essential to get the plant's watering cadence right. It should be watered regularly until new growth starts to appear (including leaves and stems, not just blooms), at which point you can decrease watering frequency. Additionally, butterfly weed plants should not be fertilized. While fertilizer may work to make other plants bloom, it can harm butterfly weed and discourage blooming. If the plant is not receiving adequate sunlight, it may not bloom; consider moving it to a new location. Common Problems With Butterfly Weed Other than the root rot that can appear in dense, wet soils, there are only a few common problems with butterfly weed. Self-Seeding The most common issue with butterfly weed is rampant self-seeding if the seed pods aren't removed before they burst and scatter their seeds. This can be prevented by removing the seed pods before they dry and burst open. The volunteer plants that appear due to self-seeding should be removed before they establish long tap roots. Rabbit Damage Butterfly weed is very attractive to feeding rabbits. Rodent-repellant granules or sprays can provide some prevention, but metal fencing around the plants is the best solution.

The lupine flower, also known as lupin or bluebonnet, looks like a wildflower, but it is a fast-growing legume in the pea family that has a tall, showy spire of colorful blooms that are typically purple. Flowers bloom from spring through midsummer and, while individual lupine plants do not spread, the flower pods each disperse up to a dozen seeds. Lupine is an annual and short-lived perennial flower with a lifespan of two to five years. This low-maintenance plant grows best in northern climates with cooler summers and requires a daily six hours of full sunlight, weekly watering, and soil on the acidic side. These vividly colored flowers are also deer-resistant and beneficial to pollinators like bees and butterflies. The plant is toxic to humans and animals. Lupine Care Here are the main care requirements for growing lupine: Plant lupines during cooler early spring or fall temperatures. Use loose, sandy soil for lupines, and avoid planting this flower in clay soil unless it is amended. Offer lupines more sun and minimum shade. Space smaller lupines a foot apart and larger ones two to three feet apart. Stake taller lupine varieties using grow-through grid stakes to prevent them from flopping over. Water lupine during periods of dry weather. Use an acidifying, phosphorous-heavy fertilizer when planting lupine. Deadhead lupine to encourage continuous flowering. Planting To grow lupine seedlings, dig holes 1 to 1 1/2 feet deep and start small plants about 1 foot apart, while larger plants should be grown two to three feet apart. Ideally, lupine plants are planted outdoors in cooler temperatures, either early spring or fall. Add mulch but avoid fertilizer. Light Lupines prefer full sun, at least six hours of direct sunlight on most days, to grow and bloom their best. They can grow in partial shade, but their flowering will diminish. However, some afternoon shade is ideal in hot climates. Soil These flowers thrive in organically rich soil or loose, sandy soil with sharp drainage. They prefer a neutral to slightly acidic soil pH, though they also can grow in very acidic soil conditions. Lupines will typically not survive in heavy clay soil unless the dirt is loosened a few inches down and heavily amended with compost. Water While lupines don't like soggy soil, which can cause root rot, they prefer regular watering. Water at least weekly if you haven't gotten rainfall to prevent the soil from drying out. Temperature and Humidity Lupines like fairly cool summers and don't bloom well in the hot, humid climates of the southern part of the United States. Place a light layer of mulch around the lupines to retain soil moisture and keep the roots cool in hot areas. Fertilizer Lupines generally don't require fertilizer, and too much fertilizer can encourage excess foliage growth rather than blooms.4 However, an acidifying fertilizer with more phosphorous than nitrogen is useful for lowering the soil pH of alkaline soils. These fertilizers may be labeled as "bloom boosters."5 Lupine already fixes the nitrogen in the soil, so it doesn't require more. Types of Lupine The types of lupine grown in gardens are generally hybrid crosses (Lupinus × hybrida) of various native species bred to maximize flower color and vigor. Lupinus is an enormous genus of flowering plants, comprising hundreds of species. The colorful hybrid lupines most popular for gardens were primarily derived from Lupinus polyphyllus (also called large-leaved lupine), a North American native, crossed with various other species, such as Lupinus arboreus. Although rainbow hybrid lupine seed mixes are the most popular commercially available lupine, the original blue strain is the hardiest. There are several lupine varieties available that vary in appearance, including: Russell mixed colors: Bred in 1937 and naturalized in many areas, this hybrid rainbow and bicolor mixture is the foundation for all new cultivars. Gallery series: Dense flower spikes on this compact plant grow no more than 2 feet tall. For example, 'Gallery White' boasts snowy white flower spikes. 'Dwarf Lulu': These plants grow about 2 feet tall in a rainbow of hues and feature unusually dense racemes. 'Minarette': This dwarf 18-inch variety of lupine looks stunning in drifts along a border's edge or in containers. Lupinus albus (white lupine): This taller lupine can grow up to 4 feet tall with white blossoms. Lupinus albifrons (silver lupine): This taller lupine grows between 3 to 5 feet tall with silver-green leaves topped with pale blue to purple flowers. Lupinus angustifolius (blue lupine): Also called narrowleaf lupine, this taller plant grows to 5 feet tall and has blue blooms. It is used more for agricultural use than for gardens. Propagating Lupines Because lupines sprout so easily from seed, this is the normal method for growing them, though blooming takes longer. Lupines can also be propagated by carefully taking basal cuttings from established plants in the spring and simply replanting them. Basal propagation ensures an ongoing stock of the plants, and they may bloom sooner than seeds. Take these steps: Propagate lupine cuttings in the early spring before the plant has begun to actively grow and leaf out. Use a sanitized sharp knife to sever a segment of the crown and roots from the parent plant. Transplant the new segment to a new location in the ground. Propagate lupine every two to three years, as they are short-lived plants. How to Grow Lupine From Seed Lupines are easy perennials to grow from seeds but can take two years to bloom this way. Buy lupine seeds or harvest the small round tan or green seeds from the plant's pods in the fall. Start lupines from seed in the early to late spring or late fall for the following spring season. Take these steps: Before sowing in the ground, nick the tough seed coat or soak it in water overnight to ensure a better germination rate. Plant the seeds about 1/4 inch deep outdoors in a permanent area that receives full sun. Lupines do not transplant easily due to their long taproots. Expect germination in 14 to 30 days. Potting and Repotting Lupine Plant lupine in pots in the springtime. Choose a large, deep, and heavy container to comfortably handle the plant's long taproots and top-heavy, upright growth. Use well-draining soil, space lupine plants a minimum of a foot apart, and put the container in full sun. Cut the plant back and shelter the pot over the winter to help lupines survive. Overwintering During the winter, lupines die back to the ground and go dormant. Cut the lupine stalks down to the ground, leaving 1 to 2 inches above ground. Mulch to protect the below-ground plant from freezing temperatures as it overwinters. Common Pests & Plant Diseases Lupine is vulnerable to aphids are common in spring.6 Control pests with horticultural oils or pesticides. Lupine is susceptible to lupine anthracnose which causes leaf blight and brown spots.7 Remove and destroy affected plants and avoid using the area to grow lupines for several years so the spores have time to die off. Powdery mildew from poor air circulation can impact lupines with white, powdery patches on foliage.8 Cut away the foliage and wait for regrowth or treat it with organic methods. How to Get Lupine to Bloom Bloom Months Lupine blooms from late spring into July. If they do rebloom after their first flush, they may produce smaller flowers. What Do Lupine Flowers Look and Smell Like? Hybrid lupines have a telltale look of tall, showy spires of flowers that can come in a multitude of colors. The foliage resembles palm leaves with seven to 10 leaflet segments each. Lupines have sweet scents but various types smell different. How to Encourage More Blooms Lupines planted in deep shade typically won't flower. Remedy this by trimming back neighboring shrubs and trees for more sun. A second bloom in the summer may occur but with smaller flowers. Cut back in spring after the first flowering to encourage summer blooms. What to Do With Lupine After It Blooms Deadheading lupine after it blooms and fades may result in a second flush. By the fall, cut the plants down to the ground. Common Problems With Lupine Lupine is easy to grow but there may be a couple of problems. Here's what to look for. Not Blooming Your lupines may not be blossoming because they are not getting enough sunlight, the flowers are underwatered, there's a pest infestation, or the soil does not have enough phosphorous in it. Brown Leaf Tips Lupines are susceptible to a fungus called lupine anthracnose. The leaf tips of younger lupine plants turn brown and bend. As the disease develops, more brown spots and cankers appear on the leaves. Remove and discard all infected plants. To protect surrounding plants from the fungus, use a fungicide for outdoor ornamental plants or one for Colletotrichum diseases. Colletotrichum gloeosporioides cause Lupine anthracnose.

Woodland forget-me-nots are short-lived perennials valued for their color, with numerous pink buds followed by small, attractive, half-inch five-petaled blue flowers. A short plant (often just 5 inches at maturity) with a medium growth rate, forget-me-not has hairy stems with single flowers growing at the end of bunches of flowering stems. It attracts butterflies and resists rabbits and deer. Forget-me-nots are cold hardy. Although they can grow in the sun or shade, they prefer moist, woodland environments with dappled light. In warmer, southern climates with high heat, they grow best in a shady spot. Although technically a perennial, most gardeners treat forget-me-not as a biennial, sowing seed in midsummer and enjoying the blooms the following year. It is used as a groundcover, in garden beds, woodland gardens, rock gardens, or containers. Deadhead flowers if you don't want them to overgrow in an area since they reseed readily and are invasive in some areas. Forget-Me-Not Meaning and Symbolism Woodland forget-me-nots (Myosotis sylvatica) are different from Chinese forget-me-nots (Cynoglossum amabile). The word "myosotis" in the species name comes from Greek words meaning "mouse ear." The plant's foliage has short, pointed leaves resembling mouse ears. A forget-me-not variety, Myosotis scorpiodes, also has a unique common name, "scorpion grass," for its flower clusters that curl like a scorpion's tail. Forget-me-nots are a popular bridal flower for their symbolism. They historically symbolize true love, respect, fidelity, and devotion. Forget-Me-Not Care Here are the main care requirements for growing woodland forget-me-nots: Grows well in full sun or partial shade, preferring dappled light. Prefers moist soil; do not allow it to dry out. Handles heat and cold climates and does not like intense heat. It needs rich soil, augmented with compost or fertilizer annually. Light In the North, you can grow it in full sun or partial shade, although this plant prefers dappled light. At the southern end of its range, give forget-me-not afternoon shade. This plant does not like intense sunlight. Soil Forget-me-not prospers in organically enriched, consistently moist, well-drained soil. Never allow the soil to dry out. It grows best in neutral pH, although it handles slightly alkaline or acidic soil pH. Water Forget-me-not prefers wet soil. It can handle muddy or waterlogged soil and thrives near a stream, pond, or bog. The more sunlight it receives, the more water it will need. Temperature and Humidity With a range covering six USDA zones, forget-me-not withstands heat and cold well. Unless you're trying to grow it north of zone 3, you don't need to take measures to winterize it. However, due to its susceptibility to powdery mildew disease,2 it isn't recommended for areas with intensely hot, humid summers. Fertilizer Fertilize forget-me-not with compost or general-purpose fertilizer annually. Follow the product label instructions for the amount of fertilizer to use. Types of Forget-Me-Nots There are about 100 species of forget-me-nots. Most are called forget-me-nots or scorpion grass. Some of these plants were historically used to treat wounds and some medical conditions.3 Other common types of forget-me-nots include: Small-flowered forget-me-not (Myosotis stricta) Broadleaf forget-me-not (Myosotis latifolia) Water forget-me-not (Myosotis scorpioides) Field forget-me-not (Myosotis arvensis) Alpine forget-me-not (Myosotis asiatica) Cultivars of Myosotis sylvatica with more options for color, plant size, or flower size include: Blue basket: Taller, deeper blue flowers Music: Flowers larger and deeper blue Pompadour: Compact growth habit; pink flowers Snowball: White flowers Ultramarine: Smaller plant; deep blue flowers Victoria blue: Compact growth habit Victoria rose: Pink flowers Victoria white: White flowers Pruning Forget-me-nots do not need pruning unless you want to trim away extra growth. You can remove dead or dried-up branches at any time, but the best time to trim overgrowth is immediately after the plant flowers. Use sterilized pruners to remove the spent flowering stalks at the base. Basal pruning also prevents seeds from dispersing. Once you introduce it to your garden, you'll have it for many years (unless you actively suppress it). Propagating Forget-Me-Not Forget-me-nots are best propagated by seed and division. To divide it, here's how: Dig up plants that have spread from the original. Transplant them to other areas in spring. Dig the holes the same depth as they were growing previously. Place in the hole and backfill with soil. Space them 10 inches apart. Water deeply to settle the plant. How to Grow Forget-Me-Not From Seed Forget-me-not plants are grown easily from seed, as evidenced by the plant's ability to reseed and spread. Here's how to sow seeds: Source seeds by early summer. Select a spot in the garden. Prepare the soil by raking it to loosen it and smooth it out. By midsummer, broadcast the seed across the surface. Water lightly afterward and often enough to keep the soil moist. Seedlings emerge in the fall; blooming will occur the following spring. Potting and Repotting Forget-Me-Nots Forget-me-not grows well in containers, whether outside in a shady spot or indoors. Plant it on its own in a 8- to 12-inch pot with good drainage filled with fresh potting mix. It also makes a good filler plant in a larger container with a mix of shade-loving plants. Keep the soil moist but not soggy and make sure the plant has good air circulation. Indoors, keep the pot in a spot with indirect light and rotate the plant frequently to ensure even light exposure. Water the plant regularly to keep the soil evenly moist. When the plant becomes root-bound, move it into a container one size larger than its current pot. Fill the new container with fresh potting mix, place the plant in the center and firm it into place with additional potting mix. Water it well to eliminate air pockets and allow the pot to drain. How to Get Forget-Me-Not to Bloom Bloom Months Forget-me-nots typically bloom from April to May for several weeks. What Do Forget-Me-Not Flowers Look and Smell Like? The plant produces many dainty blue, pink, or white flowers, just under 1/2-inch across. The five-petalled star-like blooms have no discernible scent. How to Encourage More Blooms Provide rich, consistently moist soil for the longest blooming period and the most flowers. Deadhead spent flowers to encourage more flowers. Forget-me-not, as a biennial or short-lived, reseeding perennial, reblooms annually with minimal care. Common Pests and Plant Diseases Garden pests mostly leave forget-me-not alone, but aphids, slugs, and snails can sometimes become problematic. Aphids are sap-suckers that can be controlled by a regular spray of water or wiping them away by hand. Slugs and snails are best eliminated by hand-picking and dropping them in soapy water. If the problem is extensive, use traps made of sunken bowls of beer around the plants. The fermentation smell entices the pests and drowns them. Reset and repeat until these traps no longer capture new slugs or snails. Forget-me-nots are susceptible to two diseases: powdery mildew and rust.4 Powdery mildew is that light-colored, powdery covering on a plant's leaves. Seldom fatal, it temporarily ruins plants' appearance. Minimize it by avoiding overhead watering. Common Problems Forget-me-nots are easy plants to care for and grow. The biggest concerns with these plants are managing their spread and giving the right amount of water. Managing Growth These prolific self-seeders are best controlled by removing the seed heads or flowering stalk immediately as the flower begins to fade. Dig up new stands of emerging growth and transplant them to a new section of your garden to control overgrowth in one area. Or, remove and discard them if you want to limit them in your garden. Wilting Leaves Forget-me-nots are water lovers. If the plants look like the leaves are wilting and crispy, they are likely not getting enough water. If the leaves look wilting and limp, they may be getting too much water. Adjust the water level accordingly. If the problem continues, consider digging up the plant and replacing the soil with better-draining soil.

Liatris, also known as blazing star or gayfeather, is a long-blooming perennial wildflower. It has highly unusual flower heads featuring tiny and colorful star-like blossoms arranged around a long upright bottlebrush spire. The grasslike leaves are narrow and inconspicuous, forming a basal clump, but they turn an attractive bronze color in the fall. Blazing star is adaptable to many warm and cold climates and requires full sun, and well-drained, slightly acidic soil but prefers drier winter conditions. Blazing Star Care Here are the main care requirements for growing blazing star: Plant blazing star corms in the spring after the last frost date spaced 12 to 15 inches apart and two to four inches deep. Place corms in well-draining soil that's slightly acidic or neutral. Avoid planting in clay or overly rich soil for best results. Put blazing star plants in full sun. Water new plants or corms thoroughly, and then water only during the hottest months. Light Choose a site with full sun to plant blazing star corms. These are prairie plants in their native habitat, so the more sun, the better they will perform. Soil Just about any soil, at any level of fertility, will successfully grow blazing star corms, although quick drainage is essential to prevent rot. Very rich soils may require that you stake the plants, as the stalks can be a bit floppy. Blazing star prefers a slightly acidic to neutral soil pH. Heavy clay can cause root rot, especially in winter, if the soil doesn't drain well. Water After planting, water the corms thoroughly. The corms do not need additional irrigation until stalks sprout. As the plants begin active growth, one inch of water a week during the hottest months will prevent stunted flowers and leaf scorch. Apply water to the base of the plants, or use drip irrigation, to avoid spreading fungal diseases. These plants need more water in their first year; afterward, they have good tolerance to drought and dry soil conditions. Temperature and Humidity Hardy in zones 3 to 9, blazing star is quite tolerant of summer heat and humidity in warm climates and will survive very cold winters, provided that the soil is not too wet. Wet winter soils can cause the corms to rot. Fertilizer Blazing star is not a heavy feeder, but if the soil fertility is poor you can apply a balanced flower fertilizer each spring as active growth begins. In most decent soils, however, it usually does fine with no feeding whatsoever. Types of Blazing Star L. spicata, the most common garden species, is very often planted in its original native form. Several named cultivars are popular, and there are also a couple Liatris species of note: ‘Alba’: This cultivar has pure white flowers and grows about 18 inches tall. ‘Callilepsis’: This cultivar has the expected purple flowers on especially long stems that are ideal for cut flower arrangements. ‘Kobold’: This is a smaller, more compact variety with deep-purple flower heads. This variety is a good choice for the foreground of mixed perennial beds. 'Floristan White' and 'Floristan Violett': These cultivars have beautiful, 3-foot flower spikes that bloom in July and are known for having an especially long bloom period. 'September Glory': This plant blooms from August to September with 4-foot purple spikes. L. aspera (rough blazing star): This species has purple flowers that grow from 15 to 40 inches tall, depending on location. It has less showy flowers but is a good performer for dry, barren soil. L. pycostachya (prairie blazing star or Kansas gayfeather): This plant blooms later, in August through September. It is available in white, purple, or rose-purple flowers that grow on spires reaching two to five feet tall. Propagating Blazing Star As blazing star matures, it typically develops offset corms. It's easy to propagate this plant by digging up the root corms and separating them. Doing this every few years will also help rejuvenate the plants and extend the life of a clump. Here's how: In spring as new growth is just beginning, use a shovel or trowel to dig up the entire clump. Separate the clump into sections, each with at least one thick corm with at least one "eye" or bud. Discard any corms that are soft or completely desiccated. Plant the corms immediately in their new locations, after carefully loosening the soil to at least five inches deep. Space pieces at least 1 foot apart to ensure good air circulation. Corms can also be divided in fall, and then stored over winter for spring planting. How to Grow Blazing Star From Seed Blazing star can also be grown from seed, although patience is required since the first blooms take two years or more to appear. The seeds will require four to six weeks of cold stratification to germinate. If starting seeds indoors, take these steps: Plant the seeds in small pots or starter trays filled with standard potting mix. Moisten the mix, then plant the seeds in groups of three to five seeds, just barely covering them with additional potting mix. Place the containers in a spot that receives morning sun and where nighttime temperatures remain above 50°F. Continue to moisten the potting mix until the seeds sprout, which usually takes two to four weeks. Keep the seedlings moist as they grow in a sunny location until it's time to transplant them outdoors after all danger of frost has passed. Harden off seedlings before planting them in the garden. New seedlings may need protection from feeding rabbits for the first year. Potting and Repotting Blazing Star Native perennials such as blazing star are not commonly grown in containers, but it is certainly possible to do so. Any well-draining container filled with a good porous potting mix will work. Planting and care are identical for in-ground plants, but you will probably need to water more often, as the soil in containers tends to dry out faster than garden soil. To ensure winter survival, move the containers to a sheltered location as freezing weather approaches. Some gardeners have had success placing containers in a cold frame or cool garage, heaping them with mulch, or even burying the container in the garden for winter. Don't try to bring a potted blazing star indoors to grow as a houseplant over winter, as these plants require weeks of cold dormancy to reset themselves for spring growth. Overwintering Within its hardiness range, blazing star does not need any special winter cold protection. The normal pruning routine is simply to cut off the flower stalks near ground level, though you can also leave the flower heads in place for the benefit of winter-feeding birds. Blazing star does not like wet winter soil so avoid heaping mulch over the plant crowns for the winter, as this can trap moisture and encourage bulb rot. Make sure to clean away soggy garden debris in the spring before new growth begins. Common Pests & Plant Diseases Blazing star does not suffer from any serious insect problems, but several fungal diseases can occur, including leaf spot, rust, stem rot, powdery mildew, and verticillium wilt. The best approach is to prevent these diseases by giving the plants good sunlight and air circulation. Mild fungal diseases, such as leaf spot and powdery mildew, are usually not serious and may not even require treatment. More severe diseases sometimes can be treated with fungicides, but it may be necessary to remove and destroy badly affected plants. How to Get Blazing Star to Bloom Bloom Months Blazing star typically blooms from July into late fall. Young plants sometimes withhold flowers for the first year or two until the root systems become well established. What Do Blazing Star Flowers Look and Smell Like? The pure species has bright purple flower spikes, but there are also pink and white cultivars available. Fresh blazing star does not have any scent, but dried flowers may emit a faint vanilla fragrance. How to Encourage More Blooms The largest corms will produce the most impressive flowers. For better blooms, start by choosing corms that approach three inches or more in diameter. These structurally swollen dormant stem parts will send up shoots followed by flowers approximately three months after a spring planting. If mature plants fail to bloom at all, it may be a problem of soil fertility. Try blending in a slow-release fertilizer into the soil around the plants each spring. Also, check to ensure the plant receives enough sunlight. Deadheading Blazing Star Flowers Deadheading blazing star after the first bloom of the year may encourage a second blooming. Do not deadhead any blooms if you want the plants to reseed. Common Problems With Blazing Star As a hardy native wildflower, blazing star generally thrives with relative neglect. When problems occur, it is often the result of too much care—too much soil fertility or too much watering. Flower Stalks Flop Over Blazing star is a sturdy plant, even when growing in average or poor, rocky, gravelly soil. In most cases, staking the plants is not necessary. Paradoxically, rich, fertile soils can cause the flower stalks to topple over. In this case, you may need to stake up the flower stalks. Plants Turn Mushy and Break Mushy plants that break at the ground level indicate stem or corm rot, which is caused by wet soil that introduces fungal disease into the roots or stems. Unfortunately, these plants will need to be removed. Future problems can often be avoided by reducing water or improving soil drainage.

Hardy geraniums are flowering perennials comprised of many cultivars, species, and hybrids within the Geranium genus, collectively called cranesbill geraniums. These are commonly-grown, low-growing, dense, carpet-like plants, not to be confused with zonal geraniums. These perennials have flower stalks that poke and weave through neighboring plants, floating on top of the plant. The small white, blue, pink, magenta, purple, lavender, and blue flowers are one inch wide and cupped-shaped, attracting butterflies and bees. Hardy geraniums grow best in well-drained, moderately rich soil. Most will do well in either full sun or partial shade, but they like to be fairly dry—they can become prone to mildew if kept damp. Note that geraniums are toxic to pets. Hardy Geranium Care Here are the main care requirements for growing a hardy geranium: Site them in a spot with full or partial sun; more sun equals more blooms. Give regular water, especially if in a full-sun location. Plant hardy geraniums so that the crown is at ground level or slightly above. Prune them after flowering to prompt repeated blooming into the fall. Prefers neutral to slightly acidic soil. Give well-balanced, time-released fertilizer if the soil is poor. Light Hardy geraniums accept a wide range of exposure conditions. For the best flowering and vigorous geranium plants, site them in full sun to partial shade. If geraniums are grown in hot, full sun, provide regular water. Some varieties of geraniums can tolerate full shade, but they likely won't blossom as fully as those with plenty of sun. Soil Geraniums are not particular about soil pH, but a neutral to slightly acidic soil is ideal. Most prefer medium-moisture, well-drained soil, though some species prefer relatively dry soil. Water Geraniums are a low-maintenance plant, so water them only when the soil becomes dry. If located in full sun, water the plant more frequently. Hardy geraniums can become prone to fungal disease if watered overhead. Temperature and Humidity Hardy geraniums grow best in daytime temperatures between 65 and 75 degrees and nighttime temperatures between 50 and 60 degrees. They tolerate a wide range of humidity levels, though mildew and rust can be non-life-threatening in very humid regions. Fertilizer Unless the soil is very poor, hardy geraniums generally do fine with no feeding other than a yearly application of compost. Poor soils might require a spring feeding with a time-release balanced fertilizer. Types of Hardy Geranium There are as many as 300 types of geraniums available to grow, some pure species, others nursery-created hybrids. The pure species are popular garden plants, but many named garden cultivars originate from hybrids achieved by crossing species within the genus. Geranium 'Johnson's Blue': This variety is thought to be a hybrid between G. himalayense and G. pretense. It is one of the most popular varieties, growing about 18 inches tall with sky-blue flowers. It is suitable for zones 4 to 8. G. sanguineum: This species, sometimes known as bloody cranesbill, is a relatively low-growing, clumping form that produces reddish-purple flowers from May to June, with lesser flowering into the late summer. It is grown in zones 3 to 9. Several good cultivars are available: 'Album,' with white flowers; 'Elke,' with soft pink flowers; and 'New Hampshire Purple,' with violet flowers with white eyes. G. himlayense: Known as lilac cranesbill, this species is hardy in zones 4 to 8 and produces violet, indigo, and blue flowers in early to mid-summer. It grows 9 to 18 inches in height. Geranium × oxonianum' Wargrave Pink': The most commonly grown geranium with salmon-pink flowers grows 18 to 24 inches tall in zones 3 to 8. Geranium' Rozanne: A violet-blue hybrid that flowers almost non-stop throughout summer. It grows 18 to 24 inches tall in zones 5 to 8. Geranium 'Ann Folkard': This is one of the earliest blooming geraniums with magenta flowers that repeat bloom throughout the season. This hybrid has a trailing habit and grows six to eight inches tall in zones 5 to 9. Geranium 'Double Jewel': Double-white petals feature a lilac center. It's short and sometimes grown containers because it grows 10 inches tall. It is hardy in zones 4 to 8. Geranium 'Southcombe Double': Double, pure pink blooms resemble fluffy asters. It grows ten inches tall in zones 4 to 8. Pruning Hardy geraniums require little care once established. They can get scraggly after blooming, and deadheading is difficult because of its many wispy stems. Shearing the plants back to basal growth will improve their look and encourage re-blooming. The plants fill out within weeks. The exception is G. macrorrhizum, which is easily deadheaded and needs no shearing. Propagating Hardy Geraniums Cranesbill geraniums can be divided and replanted through early summer. Nursery plants or divisions will quickly reach flowering maturity within their first year and slowly spread to fill available space. Plants started from seed can take several years before they flower. Most species of hardy geranium live longer if divided every three to five years, though you can divide more frequently to keep them from spreading or to obtain new plants. Once you see the center dying out, it is time to divide. Divide the geraniums from early spring to early summer, giving the plant time to establish roots before a frost. Here's how: Begin by digging up the plant and shaking the soil off the roots. Use a trowel or a knife to separate the root ball into pieces, ensuring each division has a root section and leaves. Replant each divided section at its original depth. Thoroughly water the newly planted divisions. How to Grow Hardy Geraniums From Seed Many hardy geraniums will self-seed readily, even taking root in sidewalk cracks. They do not spread uncontrollably and are rarely a problem. The volunteer seedlings can be easily dug up and transplanted elsewhere. You can also collect and plant seeds in the garden or seed-starter trays. Hybrids and many cultivars do not come true from collected seeds; these must be propagated by root division or other vegetative methods. Hardy geraniums are relatively slow-growing plants, and when started from seeds, it can take three to five years before they are mature enough to flower. Here's how to plant from seed: Get planting cells or 2-inch pots filled with moistened potting soil. Lightly cover one seed per pot or cell with soil. Cover the pot with clear plastic to keep the soil humid to promote germination. Keep the pot in a warm spot, at least 75 F, with bright, indirect light. Keep the soil moist. Germination can take place within three days or three weeks, depending on the conditions. Uncover the plastic and give half-strength fertilizer once a seedling emerges. Potting and Repotting Hardy Geraniums Unlike the popular zonal geraniums (Pelargonium), hardy geraniums are perennial plants rarely grown in containers. That said, there's no reason you can't do it. Use an oversized pot that will give the plant plenty of space to grow, and fill it with any standard commercial potting mix. The container can be made of any material but must have good drainage. Spread out the roots of the geranium as you plant it. Hardy geraniums don't like waterlogged soil, so weekly watering should suffice. They are relatively slow-growing plants, so repotting is required only when roots begin to poke out the drainage holes—this can take as long as three years. In colder climates, move the pots to a sheltered spot for the winter to protect the roots. These plants are not suitable for moving indoors to grow as houseplants. Overwintering Hardy geraniums generally require no winter protection against cold, but it is good practice to cut off the stems to just above ground level and discard the debris as winter approaches to eliminate fungal spores that can often cause powdery mildew. Common Pests & Plant Diseases Hardy geraniums are relatively trouble-free plants. Slugs might attack young geranium plants, while mildew and rust can infest foliage, especially in partial shade and humid climates. Shearing back and disposing of the infected leaves will help. To avoid mildew, give the plants plenty of space to improve air circulation and water through ground soaking rather than overhead spraying. Mildew spores are spread from water splashing against the soil. How to Get Hardy Geranium to Bloom When hardy geraniums fail to bloom as you expect, it's usually for one of these reasons: Too much moisture: Most hardy geraniums like relatively dry conditions; if they are overwatered, they will withhold blooms. Not enough sun: These plants typically want at least six hours of sun daily, and if they don't get it, flowering will be more sparse. The foliage itself, though, is often appealing enough to warrant growing the plant even in relatively shady conditions. Too much fertilizer: These plants thrive on little to no fertilizer, and if fed too often, the result can be excessive foliage at the expense of flowers. Fertilizers heavy in nitrogen are especially problematic. Replanted too deep: When replanting into a larger container or in a new site, do not replant them too deep; it can prevent them from flowering. Bloom Months Hardy geraniums typically bloom from May to September, generally from early summer to early fall. How Long Does Hardy Geranium Bloom? Hardy geraniums bloom for about three months. Often, there is one particularly heavy flush of flowers, with fewer blooms continuing in subsequent months. Shearing back plants after the main flush frequently stimulates more blooms to follow. What Do Hardy Geraniums Flowers Look and Smell Like? The flowers are five-petalled, usually pink, purple, blue, or white. Some have a mild, pleasant scent, if at all. Deadheading Hardy Geranium Flowers Most geraniums are wispy and difficult to deadhead. It's best to shear the plants to the base after flowering to promote more blooms to appear. The only hardy geranium worth deadheading is Geranium macrorrhizum, which is easy to deadhead. Common Problems with Hardy Geranium Hardy geraniums don't need much to grow well, but they do have some issues that come up occasionally. Overgrowth Hardy geraniums spread easily in the garden as a pleasing ground cover that weaves among other plants to block weeds and can grow somewhat invasively, spreading via underground rhizome rooting structures. Fortunately, hardy geranium is relatively easy to dig out and eliminate. Leggy Growth After flowering, hardy geraniums can become somewhat leggy and sparse. It's easy to shear or cut back the sparse stems, stimulating new growth.

Lenten rose (Helleborus x hybridus) is not a rose; it's a perennial hybrid hellebore belonging to the buttercup family. The name origin of "Lenten rose" refers to the plant's bloom season, which is around the Christian season of Lent that falls in late winter, and its rose-like flower buds. Lenten rose thrives in partial sun to shady conditions. Plant it in moist, neutral-to-alkaline, rich soil with good drainage. Lenten rose cannot tolerate high temperatures. Lenten rose is toxic to humans and pets. Lenten Rose Care Lenten rose is one of the easiest plants to grow. Here are the main requirements: Plant Lenten rose in early fall or spring in partial to full shade, keeping them sheltered from harsh winter winds. Keep the soil moist, but don't let Lenten rose plant roots get soggy; mulch in early winter. Protect Lenten rose plants from deep freezes. Feed regularly with fertilizer or amend the soil occasionally with organic matter. Light One of the best perennials for shade, hellebores will retain their vibrant sepals and foliage in shady locations. An ideal location for Lenten rose is under the canopy of a deciduous tree, which provides shade in the summer but allows plants to receive sunlight in winter when the trees drop their leaves. They do best when they receive sun in winter but full to partial shade in summer. Soil This early spring bloomer prefers evenly moist, well-draining, fertile soil. Enrich the soil with compost to improve the vigor of the plants or fertilize them with manure tea. Water Hellebores prefer evenly moist but not constantly wet soil; soggy soil can invite disease. Provide enough water to keep the soil moist during prolonged periods of hot and dry weather, but Lenten rose can tolerate dry conditions once established. If no rain is in the forecast, you can expect new plants to need about an inch of water per week. Temperature and Humidity Although its foliage is evergreen, Lenten rose can become scorched and tattered in extremely harsh winters. The plants will need winter protection to keep them safe during deep freezes. Lenten rose requires shade if you live in a zone with intensely hot, sunny summers. It likes constant moisture and grows well in humid climates. Fertilizer Regularly amending your soil with organic matter is enough for a single specimen hellebore. However, for larger plants or a cluster of multiple plants, lightly fertilize with a slow-release, balanced fertilizer in late winter as new foliage emerges. If using liquid fertilizer, ensure it doesn't splash on the foliage because it can burn the leaves. If you accidentally splash some on the plant, use a steady stream of water to wash it off. Types of Lenten Rose Lenten rose cultivars produce blooms in various colors, but the basic plant form is identical. Other hellebore species are similar to the Lenten rose. 'Red Lady': Upward-facing, single-petal flowers with a deep red hue or white with a pink blush. 'Mrs. Betty Ranicar': Abundant snow-white double-petal blooms. 'Windcliff Double Pink': Stunning double pink flowers and mounded foliage. Helleborus niger: Commonly known as Christmas rose, this species produces white flowers, sometimes flushed with pink, that appear at Christmas time in warmer regions or in midwinter in colder climates. Helleborus argutifolius: Commonly known as the Corsican hellebore, it grows along roadsides in Corsica and Sardinia and is known for its coarse but bold evergreen foliage and pale green blooms. Pruning Allow the healthy evergreen foliage to remain on the plant throughout winter. The leaves are dark green, glossy, and look hand-like with fingers. In warmer climates, it is evergreen but will drop its leaves in colder winter climates. Remove old, scorched, damaged, or dead leaves from the plant before the plant is in bloom (usually late winter to early spring). Remove any browned and ragged foliage at its base during the growing season. When the flowers have started to brown at their tips, cut them back to the bottom of the plant. After blooming, prune Lenten rose flowering stems to their base to encourage new foliage growth. Propagating Lenten Rose Lenten rose is among the easiest plants to propagate. You can cultivate more plants through division. The best time to divide mature plants is in spring. A mature plant is about three years old and has flowered in the past. Division can make flowering more vigorous for the upcoming blooming season. Transplanted sections can develop into blooming plants in the first season, but some might not and might need the span of a growing season to recover from the shock of the division. Also, divided plants will likely bloom at least one year sooner than plants grown from seed. To propagate by division: Find a container or shady spot in your landscape or garden, a sterilized knife, and moistened, enriched, well-draining potting soil. Dig up a plant clump and divide it by cutting off a piece of the plant with a healthy root section and vigorous above-ground stems. Replant the division or place the container in a shady location. Water lightly a day or two after planting and keep moist. How to Grow Lenten Rose From Seed Lenten rose produces its seeds in the late spring. You can save seeds collected from faded flower heads for planting in summer or the following spring. Although Lenten rose is not considered invasive, if you don't deadhead its faded flowers, it can reseed, self-sow, and spread to fill an area. Their attractive foliage makes them a gorgeous ground cover. Expect Lenten rose to naturalize under the right conditions. To sow seeds, prepare an area in a shady garden bed or prepare a container with moistened, enriched potting soil. Scatter seeds on the soil surface and gently press them into the soil. Seeds must be in complete contact with the soil but do not bury them. These seeds need sunlight to germinate. Moisten the seed and soil surface. Keep the soil evenly moist, and do not let it dry out. Seeds will germinate over the winter. If not sown immediately after collecting, Lenten rose seeds require a stratification period of at least three weeks of cold for the seeds to germinate. To artificially re-create these conditions, place the seeds in a clear bag and store the bag in a refrigerator for three weeks. Overwintering Although cold-tolerant, this plant needs protection from harsh, cold winds. If the plant is exposed with no windbreak, protect the plants from cold winds with a light fabric covering or cold frame. Otherwise, it can tolerate freezing temperatures. Usually, plants grown in containers need more protection than in-ground Lenten roses. Also, in the colder regions, provide a few inches of winter mulch, which you should remove before they bloom. Common Pests & Plant Diseases Lenten rose is a deer-resistant plant, but they are occasionally susceptible to leaf spot and crown rot. Use preventative fungicides early in the growing season to reduce fungal infections. Proper spacing will also help prevent fungal diseases from spreading among plants. Lenten rose is relatively pest-free; occasional slugs or snails are the most significant threats. How to Get Lenten Rose to Bloom Lenten rose can be planted in early fall or late spring and have a lengthy bloom period. When growing a plant from seed, do not expect plants to produce blooms in the first year. It can take two or more growing seasons before flowers appear. Also, if you transplanted or divided your Lenten rose, it might not bloom for a year or two after that division. To encourage blooming, spread a bit of compost around the plant or a light dose of fertilizer in the early spring. Also, if the plant is being grown in a container, make sure the plant is not rootbound. Bloom Months Lenten rose usually blooms in February and stays in bloom until April. How Long Does Lenten Rose Bloom? Once they start blooming in winter, Lenten rose tends to stay in bloom for about eight to ten weeks. What Do Lenten Rose Flowers Look and Smell Like? Lenten rose is available in many varieties with different flower colors. The flowers have five petals that come together to form a cup shape. There are also several new double-flowering and bicolor varieties. These flowers have very little fragrance and are not particularly well-liked for their scent. Caring for Lenten Rose After It Blooms After Lenten rose finishes blooming, it does not require any unusual care. You may want to save seeds at this time or consider deadheading the plant. Deadheading Lenten Rose Deadheading Lenten rose will not encourage it to bloom further but will prevent it from self-seeding. Deadhead the spent flowers if you don't want the plant to spread in your garden. Common Problems With Lenten Rose Lenten rose is one of those plants that you can plant and forget about. If you situate it in the right spot, this plant can do the rest—and last for years. However, fungus can be a problem. Black Marks on Foliage and Stunted Growth If you notice black patches on the foliage or flowers, it could be the black death virus. This disease makes plants look stunted or deformed; plants will develop black streaks and netting patterns. As the name implies, this disease is deadly. Destroy this plant; it's not salvageable and can spread to other nearby plants. Aphids or whiteflies can spread it. Apply horticultural oil to any plant with those insects to keep the virus away from your other plants. Dry, Brown Blotches on Foliage Botrytis is a fungus that favors cooler, wet weather. It's also called gray mold. It starts as water-soaked spots on leaves and stems and evolves to form dry, brown blotches. The disease can attack the flowers in severe cases, making them unsightly and short-lived. To prevent the fungus from affecting your plant, ensure adequate spacing between plants; crowding breeds fungal issues, as does soil that is too soggy or impaired by poor drainage. To treat the condition, spread 1/2 inch of lime chips around the base of the entire plant. Yellowing Leaves Your evergreen plant might develop yellowed leaves during hot summers or harsh winters. Lenten roses can tolerate extreme temperatures but might not rebound immediately and will reflect their stress by yellowing their leaves or refusing to bloom. To encourage regrowth, trim off dead or dying leaves.

The Easter lily is a bulb that's planted in the fall and emerges each spring, growing quickly. While the lily generally blooms in the summer, growers have cultivated varieties forced to bloom earlier to coincide with Easter. But don't expect to have flowers for the holiday from bulbs you planted in the fall, as, once in the ground, lilies may not bloom until their second year. This plant does best with full sun to partial shade and rich, well-draining soil. It's also important to note that indoor and outdoor Easter lily plants are toxic to cats. Easter Lily Care Here are the main care requirements for growing Easter lilies. Plant bulbs in full sun to partial shade. Indoors, keep Easter lilies by a window with bright, indirect sunlight. Place them in rich, well-draining soil and keep them evenly moist. Remove spent flowers by cutting them off with a sharp pair of clean scissors. Light Easter lilies thrive in full sun to partial shade. If possible, position your Easter lily so the top part is in full sun but leaves and soil remain shaded; bright light can scorch the foliage, and it should have protection from the strong afternoon sun. Soil Easter lily flowers prefer well-drained soil that’s rich in organic matter, although they'll grow in a variety of soil types as long as the drainage is sufficient. Lilies prefer a slightly acidic to neutral soil pH, but they can tolerate slight alkalinity, as well. Water Easter lilies like evenly moist soil, so water whenever the top inch of soil feels dry. Never allow the plants to sit in water, but also don’t let the soil dry out completely. It’s ideal to water in the morning, giving the foliage time to dry in the sun. Otherwise, the plant might have problems with mildew. Temperature and Humidity Easter lilies grow and flower best in mild temperatures between 60°F and 70°F, with nighttime temperatures dipping no lower than 55°F to 60°F. They like a relative humidity level of 30%-50%. This plant doesn't grow or flower well in hot and humid climates. Fertilizer Use a slow-release, balanced fertilizer in the spring, at a rate of 1 tablespoon for each large stem on the plant, once new growth appears. If your soil is depleted, it's beneficial to fertilize your lily again in the summer, too. Organic fish fertilizer, used in a ratio of a 1/2 ounce of fertilizer to 1 gallon of water, provides the perfect nutrient source for lilies. Combine this with a 2-inch layer of mulch over the top of the soil to keep the plant happy. Types of Easter Lily The traditional Easter lily yields large white flowers, but other varieties offer variations in blooms, which range from cream to pink, including the ones below: L. longiflorum 'White Heaven': The classic pure white Easter lily grows 2 to 3 feet high with 7-inch-long flowers. L. longiflorum 'Nellie White': This cultivar is typically forced to bloom during the appropriate holiday season. It is the most popular Easter lily cultivar grown and sold by commercial growers. L. longiflorum 'Deliana': The flower color of this variety can vary from bright yellow to creamy yellow to green, depending on its soil content. Stems are 3 to 4 feet long with fragrant blooms on top. L. longiflorum 'Elegant Lady': This is a Dutch hybrid lily and features fragrant pink flowers. It is sometimes known as the "pink Easter lily." L. longiflorum 'Triumphator': This eye-popping variety has bright white flowers with rosy pink centers and typically blooms in July. Pruning Pruning lilies midseason consists of deadheading blooms and cutting back brown foliage. To do so, use sterilized garden shears to clip off flower stalks at their base. Clipping at the base will allow the plant to put its energy towards producing more flowers. Remove the entire stems of mostly brown leaves, but you can leave the yellow ones alone, as they will not compromise the health of the plant. Propagating Easter Lily Easter lilies are propagated from bulbs planted in the spring. After several seasons of growth, you can dig them up, separate the bulblets, and replant them, should you want to enjoy lilies in another part of your garden. To do so, follow these steps: Gather a spade shovel, hand trowel, and compost. In the fall, dig up your lilies to expose the bulblets (small bulbs) and divide them in half or thirds. Or, purchase bulbs at your local nursery. Plant bulbs in your garden by digging holes that are at least 6 inches apart and 4 to 6 inches deep. Place the bulblets stem side (the pointed end) up into each hole. Mix the removed soil with compost and backfill the holes containing your bulbs. In the spring after the last frost, gently water your bulbs and allow them to sprout. It may take two to three years for your lilies to reach maturity and bloom. Potting and Repotting Easter Lily When keeping an Easter lily in a pot indoors, you'll want to make sure it has access to plenty of bright light. Protect the plant from cold drafts and heat sources, like vents, fireplaces, and appliances. Because roots can become easily waterlogged, make sure to choose a container with drainage holes. Remove any decorative foil around the pot for watering and water until you see it coming out of the bottom of the pot. Allow the pot to drain fully before putting the foil back on. Keep the soil moist, but make sure it doesn't become overly wet and develop root rot. Once the flowers have finished blooming, you can choose to move it outside and plant it in your garden. Transplant outside after blooming has finished and once the last frost has passed. Repotting is not recommended for Easter lilies that have already bloomed. Overwintering Lilies grow hardy in zones 8 and below, but can still fall victim to a hard winter freeze, resulting in flowers that won't come back in the spring. For this reason, some gardeners prefer to cut back their flowers and greenery, dig up the bulblets, and store them in a root cellar, basement, or garage with temperatures that remain under 45 degrees Fahrenheit. Then, they replant bulblets in the spring, instead of the fall. If you prefer to leave them in the ground, avoid watering your lilies in the late fall. This will help the plant go dormant to endure the winter ahead. A potted Easter lily kept indoors during the winter and then moved back outside in summer is unlikely to rebloom on its current stem. You can, however, dig up the bulb after the plant is done blooming and store it in a cool and dark place until about two weeks before the first frost. At that point, the bulb can be planted. Common Pests & Plant Diseases Occasionally, a lily plant may suffer from an aphid infestation, which can degrade the foliage. Aphids can be controlled by simply hosing off your lilies with strong water blasts to decrease the population. You can also use insecticidal soap to kill off the offenders. The lily mosaic virus (spread by aphids) can move into your lily patch and cause leaf discoloration and degradation. Unfortunately, there is no cure for this disease, so you must dig up and destroy the affected plants before it spreads. Several types of bulb rot can also affect Easter lilies, along with botrytis blight, leaf scorch, and stem rot. To prevent these conditions, tend your Easter lilies daily, and perform remediations immediately. Stem rot and blight tend to move in during overwatering, and leaf scorch can happen during the heat of summer. How to Get Easter Lily to Bloom You likely want your Easter lilies—potted or not—to bloom on Easter. However, this is not an easy feat. Lilies grown in greenhouses and transported to the store for sale are of a certain variety that is forced to bloom on or near Easter. Also, the lighting conditions the plants are given before transport mimics the conditions needed to bloom. Bloom Months Easter lilies grown in the garden typically bloom in July. How Long Do Easter Lilies Bloom? Easter lilies typically hold their blooms for about two weeks after flowers open. To maximize this time indoors, place a potted Easter lily away from sources of heat, like a heat vent or radiator. You can also snip off the anthers as they emerge and this will make the flower last a bit longer. This step also prevents any possible staining from the bright yellow pollen grains that tend to fall from the flower. What Do Easter Lily Flowers Look and Smell Like? An Easter lily bloom is a large white, pink, or yellow trumpet-shaped flower with long yellow anthers. Easter lilies are one of the most fragrant lilies. When in bloom, these flowers have a strong sweet scent that can fill an entire room or permeate the garden. How to Encourage More Blooms If you want store-bought lilies to bloom for Easter, choose a potted variety with a few already-opened blooms, and then select a sunny area in your home for its location. At night, move your plant to a cool room, and then bring it out again the next day to extend its life. In the garden, all you can do is wait for the right blooming conditions (lilies can be thrown off by unusually warm, cold, or cloudy conditions). If you transplant a store-bought lily to your garden after it's done blooming, don't expect it to bloom again until the following year. Common Problems With Easter Lily When planted outdoors, Easter lilies are hardly a nuisance. Indoors, the plant won't bloom again, but the foliage can still be saved and transplanted outdoors. where just like unpotted bulbs, they may face a couple of hurdles along the way. With care, your newly planted Easter lily will bloom next season in the summer. Yellowing Leaves Easter lilies grown in a garden can suffer from plant crowding after a few seasons. Crowding will cause the lily to grow higher, while the lower leaves yellow and die. To prevent this problem, divide your lilies in the fall and plant them elsewhere, store half of the bulblets, or gift them to another gardener. Come spring, your lily bed will have ample room for healthy blooms. Stunted Growth Easter lily root rot is a known problem in the gardening world and can move into a bed that's been overwatered. Symptoms of root rot include small leaves and flowers, a reduction in the height of the greenery, yellowing at the base, and eventually, plant death. To prevent this, make sure you only water them when the top inch of the soil feels dry.

Daylilies are easy-to-grow perennials popular for borders and edging. In addition to the most commonly known variety, the yellow Stella D'oro, daylilies come in many different varieties in shades of red, orange, purple, and pink. The fast-growing and long-lived daylilies grow in a wide climate range, unaffected by winter cold or high summer temperatures. They are drought-tolerant and grow in most soils. The flowers attract butterflies and hummingbirds. Daylilies are toxic to cats. Planting The spacing depends on your patience. To naturally let them grow together over 10 to 15 years, space bare roots about 3 feet apart. For a clump that fills in earlier, space daylilies about 18 inches apart. If the soil is poor, amend it with compost before planting. Loosen the soil in the planting area to about 1 foot deep. Dig a hole deep enough to accommodate the root. Plant the plant's crown about an inch below the soil line, angling the bulbous roots outwards and a bit downwards. Evenly add soil and tamp it down to get rid of any air pockets. When the hole is 2/3 full, water generously, fill in the rest of the hole so that the crown is about an inch below the soil surface, and water again. Light Daylilies love full sun (at least six hours each day). In hot climates, some afternoon shade keeps your flowers in good health although shade may reduce the number of blooms. Soil Daylilies thrive in all types of soil but prefer fertile and loamy soil. Just make sure the soil retains moisture well (adding compost helps). Also, ensure that the site is well-draining to prevent root rot. Water Water daylilies regularly in the first growing season. Moving forward, only water about 1 inch per week during extended dry spells. Mulching helps retain moisture in the soil, plus it protects the plants in colder winter climates. Temperature and Humidity Daylilies are tough plants that tolerate a wide range of temperatures and humidity levels. Fertilizer Most daylilies do not need fertilizer. Instead, for added nutrients, add compost to the soil around the plants in each growing season. Types of Daylilies There are thousands of daylily cultivars and varieties. The most popular daylilies include: 'Stella D'Oro': This popular, reblooming daylily has flowers with a rich golden yellow that put on a show from early to midsummer, reblooming later in the season. 'Purple D'Oro': Another reblooming variety, this daylily has lavender-purple flowers that bloom in summer and rebloom in the fall. 'Crimson Pirate': This daylily has narrow, elongated red petals accented by golden yellow and a gentler sunny yellow throat. ‘Autumn Red’: This daylily has large bright red flowers, yellow eyes, and striped petals. Citron Lily (H. citrina): This cultivar grows 3 feet tall and its sweetly lemon-scented flowers bloom at night. Lemon Lily (H. lilioasphodelus, H. flava): The very fragrant lemon-yellow flowers of this 3-foot-tall cultivar bloom from May to June. Pruning If desired, remove spent flowers by gently twisting the wilted bloom between your finger and thumb. After flowering, remove the seed capsules and cut the flowering stems to the ground. Also, remove any yellowing leaves throughout the growing season to encourage the production of new leaves. Propagating Daylilies Propagating daylilies is typically done through division. Divide them every three or four years in either fall or very early spring. Dig up the daylily clump. Remove excess soil and place the plant on a tarp or cardboard to minimize the mess. Using a sanitized sharp knife or spade, divide the clump into smaller clumps. Make sure each section has a healthy clump of roots, and check that there are no weeds nestled in the roots. Replant clumps immediately in the new locations at the same depth as the original plant. How to Grow Daylilies From Seed Most daylilies grown in the garden are hybrids and those seeds will not produce true to the parent. For that reason, it makes the most sense to only start daylily species such as H. lilioasphodelus from seed. Start the seeds indoors or sow them directly in the soil in the fall. Here's how to start daylilies from seed indoors: Subject the seeds to moist cold stratification for about 30 days. Store the seeds in a dark, cool place in a paper envelope until you are ready to plant. Plant seeds in 1/4 to 1/2 inch deep in a deep 1-quart pot so the roots have room to grow. If your seeds didn't germinate during the stratification process, they should sprout in about two to three weeks in the soil. Keep the soil moist at all times. Transplant seedlings to the garden in June or July. Note that newly planted daylilies take up to two years to show their first flowers. Overwintering Daylilies do not require winter protection. The foliage dies back after the first frost. If it doesn't, cut it back to just a few inches above the ground, or wait until spring at which time it is easy to pull dead stems away from the crown. Adding a layer of straw or leaf mulch before winter helps the plant withstand freeze-and-thaw cycles. Common Pests Daylilies are generally pest-free. Even rabbits avoid them, although deer may find the entire plant tasty. Prevent the occasional slugs and snails by picking up leaf litter around the crown of the plant. Check in early spring for any aphids around the first buds and be on the lookout for spider mites or thrips in hotter weather. Control and eliminate insect pests with insecticidal soap. How to Get Daylilies to Bloom Bloom Months The bloom time depends on the variety, climate, and whether they are rebloomers. Most daylilies bloom from June to July. Rebloomers bloom either a few times a year or they are everbloomers that flower through the late spring and summer from May to September. What do Daylilies Look and Smell Like? Daylilies typically have wide petals with have straight or frilly edges. They come in all colors and patterns, ranging from simple "self" patterns (one color with potentially different colored stamens or throat) to more eclectic polychrome patterns (blooms of three or more colors). Some types are more sweetly fragrant than other types. How to Encourage More Blooms Cut the faded flower stalks from the base to encourage the daylily to produce more flowers instead of seeds. Common Problems With Daylilies Daylilies are strong, relatively carefree plants, but sometimes problems arise. Leaves Turning Yellow If the leaves begin turning yellow, the problem is likely a lack of water. Make sure the plants get at least one inch of water per week. Leaves Turning Brown If the leaves begin turning brown, it is probably leaf scorch, a non-deadly but common daylily condition Remove all dead leaves, or cut the plant back to the ground after it is done blooming to encourage new growth if there is still time left in the season.

There are around 300 species of hibiscus plants, but cranberry hibiscus is one of the showiest with vibrant pink and red flowers and palmate leaves in a dramatically dark burgundy hue. A prime choice for sunny flower beds and container gardens, cranberry hibiscus is only winter hardy in zones 8 through 11, but it can be grown as an annual or overwintered indoors in cooler locations. Whether growing cranberry hibiscus for its edible leaves and flowers or for ornamental use, this guide will teach you how to plant, grow, and tend this hardy hibiscus through the changing seasons. When to Plant Cranberry hibiscus plants are sensitive to frost, so they should only be planted outdoors in frost-free weather. In most areas, spring is the best time for planting hibiscus, although cranberry hibiscus can also be planted in summer (as long as the plants are watered often). To plant cranberry hibiscus: Dig a hole slightly larger than your hibiscus root ball and amend the soil with compost. Situate the plant in the hole at the same level that it was growing in its nursery pot, backfill the hole, firm the soil around the plant’s base, and apply a 2 to 3-inch layer of mulch. Water your plant well to help it acclimate, and begin fertilizing about 2 to 3 weeks after planting. Cranberry Hibiscus Care Tips If you love lots of garden color, cranberry hibiscus plants are hard to beat. These multi-stemmed shrubs can be used as backdrop plants to highlight the colors and shapes of other heat-loving ornamentals, like acanthus, caladium, and pineapple sage, but they can also be planted on their own. Cranberry hibiscus can also thrive in a roomy planter, which is a great option if you want to use these plants to highlight garden walkways or draw attention to a sunny front porch. Cranberry hibiscus flowers are best in full-sun locations. Most soil types are suitable for hibiscus, as long as the soil is well-draining and the plants are watered often. Pruning cranberry hibiscus to a leaf node can correct leggy stems and make plants bushier. Growers in cold climates can grow these plants as annuals, overwinter them in greenhouses, or propagate new plants from stem cuttings and grow the cuttings as houseplants through winter. Light Although cranberry hibiscus can be grown in partial shade, full sun is recommended if you want your plants to have the best color and to bloom well. Low-light gardens can cause cranberry hibiscus stems to become leggy and may make their deep burgundy leaves shift into dull shades of brown. That said, growers in hot climates may want to shelter their hibiscus plants with shade cloth during extreme heat to avoid issues with sunscald. Soil Most soil types are appropriate for hibiscus plants, although rich and well-draining soils are ideal. To give your plants an advantage, mix some compost or rotted manure into your planting holes before planting hibiscus. Water Like other hibiscus plants, cranberry hibiscus loves water. Water regularly with at least 1 inch of water per week. However, container plants may need water twice a day in hot weather. Fertilizer To keep cranberry hibiscus plants in bloom, fertilize your hibiscus every 4 to 6 weeks from spring through early August. Liquid organic fertilizers are usually the best choice for these plants. Pruning Cranberry hibiscus grows quickly and produces long stems that can become leggy and unwieldy if plants aren’t pruned regularly. To encourage your plants to develop a sturdier and bushier growth habit, clip wayward stems back to a leaf node, reshaping as you go, and consider installing stakes or supports if your plants seem to need them. Commons Problems These plants are generally pest and disease-resistant. However, even these hardy hibiscus plants can sometimes develop issues: Broken stems can occur when hibiscus plants are grown in windy areas. Planting hibiscus in a protected spot and installing plant supports can help you avoid this issue. However, if your hibiscus stems break, make a clean cut at a leaf node and throw the broken stem in your compost pile. Root rot develops when hibiscus plants are grown in overly saturated soil. Planting hibiscus in well-draining gardens can prevent this issue, as long as you don’t overwater! Pests, like mealybugs, Japanese beetles, and thrips can sometimes plague hibiscus plants. Handpicking works well for larger insects, while organic soap sprays can tackle most smaller pests with ease. How to Propagate Cranberry Hibiscus Cranberry hibiscus plants can be propagated either from seeds or stem cuttings, although propagation via stem cuttings is easier and much faster. Cut 12-inch long stem cuttings from healthy hibiscus plants using sharp, sterilized pruners. Remove the lower leaves and dip the cut stem end in rooting compound. Plant the cut stem end a few inches deep in a pot filled with damp potting mix. Cover the pot and cutting with a clear plastic bag to boost humidity and then place the pot on a heating mat to help roots develop faster. Move the pot under a grow light or into a window that receives bright, indirect light and water regularly until the plant roots. Rooted cuttings can be kept indoors as houseplants through winter, but plants can also be transitioned directly out into the garden after a period of hardening off. Types to Grow Careful plant breeding has produced a number of colorful and attractive cranberry hibiscus cultivars for container-growing or larger gardens. While you can find other types of cranberry hibiscus on the market, these varieties are always popular! ‘Panama Red’: Although ‘Panama Red’ is an infrequent bloomer, it still steals the show with its heat tolerance and eye-catching, coppery-red leaves. ‘Haight Ashbury’: A top choice for garden borders and containers, ‘Haight Ashbury’ maxes out at around 5 feet tall and produces deep red blooms towards the end of summer. ‘Jungle Red’: Growing between 4 and 6 feet tall, ‘Jungle Red’ is a versatile plant that blooms from late summer into winter in mild climates. Uses When in bloom, hibiscus flowers are magnets for all sorts of pollinators, including hummingbirds, bees, and butterflies. On top of that, cranberry hibiscus leaves and flowers are edible and they can be used to add color and a tangy taste to hot and cold teas, stir-fries, salads, sauces, and more. Blooming The short days and long nights at the end of summer and into fall trigger cranberry hibiscus plants to produce their large, pink, and red flowers. Ensuring that your plants receive enough light and fertilizer can increase the chances of flowering.

Mandevilla, known commonly as "rock trumpet," is a perennial vine in USDA hardiness zones 10 to 11. This tropical plant does not survive cold temperatures, so you must take steps to overwinter it. If you grew mandevilla in large pots for summer displays, an advantage is that, with cold temperatures on the horizon in fall, you can simply move your plant inside to protect it from the cold. Learn how to overwinter mandevilla, including two overwintering options, what to do after you have brought it indoors, and whether or not you should cut it back for winter. Your Options for Overwintering Mandevilla There are two main ways to overwinter your mandevilla plant, but both involve bringing it indoors. If you have sufficient room in your house, grow it as a houseplant over the winter. If you lack space, locate it in a storage area and allow it to go dormant. Growing Mandevilla as a Houseplant If you have been growing mandevilla outdoors in a pot, all you need to do is bring the pot indoors. If you have been growing it in the ground, you will have to pot it up. To do so, follow these steps: Select the right pot size: Select a container that is a bit larger than your Mandevilla's root ball. This will allow the roots to spread. Avoid a container that's too big: It will retain excessive water, potentially leading to root rot. Fill the pot with potting mix: Mandevilla wants good drainage. A potting mix drains better than garden soil. If the container is large, place small stones in the bottom for even better drainage. Plant your Mandevilla: Dig a hole big enough to accommodate the root ball. Place your Mandevilla in the hole, keeping its base at the same level of the soil as it was while growing outdoors. Tamp the soil down: Gently push down around your mandevilla to ensure it rests firmly in the soil. Water: Moisten the soil, but avoid overwatering. Bringing Mandevilla Indoors and Let It Go Dormant The other option to overwinter mandevilla is to bring it, container and all, indoors, or pot it up and bring it indoors. Except, here, rather than treating it as a houseplant, you are providing conditions that will allow it to "sleep" through the winter. Store it in a cool (but not cold), dark place (for example, a basement). Temperatures in the 50s (F) will be ideal. Water the plant only when the soil is completely dry. How to Care for Mandevilla After Overwintering After you have begun the overwintering process by bringing your plant indoors, your care regimen will differ depending on whether you are overwintering mandevilla as a houseplant or in a dormant state: As a Houseplant: If you're treating it as a houseplant, give it a temperature of 65° to 70°, with as much humidity as possible. Give it bright but indirect sunlight, and keep its soil evenly moist (but don't let it get soggy). Any fertilizer you apply to a mandevilla houseplant should be applied at a weaker dose than when you fertilize it outdoors. The plant won't grow as vigorously indoors, and excessive fertilizer would only harm it. As a Dormant Plant: Since you won't be showing off your mandevilla as a houseplant, prune it back to just a few inches above the soil. This will help prepare it for next summer. Make sure the temperature is above 45° to 50° Fahrenheit. Keep it in the dark and water it very sparingly. Apply no fertilizer to a mandevilla being kept dormant. Should You Cut Back Mandevilla for Winter? If you will be keeping your mandevilla in a dormant state, prune it to within a few inches of the soil surface. Even if you are growing it as a houseplant, prune it in early spring to prepare it for the new growing season. Remove some of the older stems, along with any stems that are crisscrossing. This will open up the plant (improving air circulation) and reinvigorate it.

Mums flower in the fall months, and their prolific blooms make them a staple in many gardens and fall porch displays alike. While they don’t require much upkeep, deadheading is the simple task that will regularly encourage better, more long-lasting blooms in your fall mums. Here’s everything you need to know about deadheading mums, including how to do it, when the best time to deadhead is, and things to avoid. Benefits of Deadheading One common misconception about mums is that they are annuals, often sold in planters during the late summer for autumnal displays. However, with the proper care, mums can return year after year and provide an endless display of fall color. Aside from planting your Chrysanthemum in the ground (versus keeping it in a planter), deadheading is one of the best ways to ensure your plant develops strong growth and establishes itself for overwintering. Regular deadheading provides the following benefits to chrysanthemums: Encourage the plant to produce more blooms, extending the flowering period. Redirect energy from spent blooms to the roots, which helps to establish the plant. Prevent disease by clearing away dead and dying blooms and foliage. When Is the Best Time to Deadhead Mums? Deadheading should take place during the flowering season once blooms are spent. The trick is to deadhead the flowers once the color has faded, not when they have already turned brown and crispy. Waiting for the flowers to dry out means the blooms have already started setting seeds, wasting valuable energy and resources for the plant. Since mums can bloom for up to 10 weeks, deadheading is an ongoing task that should be tackled once every week or two. Luckily, when done regularly, deadheading your plant(s) should only take you a few minutes at a time—a small yet important task. How to Deadhead Mums Using your fingers or a pair of clean garden shears, remove spent blooms a couple of inches below the flower head. This will result in the cut stem being hidden by the plant’s foliage for a more attractive and healthy-looking plant. Repeat this process regularly during the blooming period. Pinching Back vs. Deadheading Mums ‘Pinching back’ (or simply ‘pinching’) and deadheading are not the same thing, although they are often confused with one another. While deadheading involves removing spent blooms from the plant to encourage more prolific flowering, pinching involves removing the growing tip of a shoot or stem to encourage it to branch. It’s a conservative form of pruning that creates a bushier, fuller, and healthier plant. Left to their own devices, mums will grow tall and leggy, so pinching is essential to creating the mounding shape we associate with these fall flowers. Pinching should be done in the spring or early summer once the plant is about six inches tall. Use your fingers to remove any existing buds and non-budded growth tips. Remember that the plant will fork off wherever you pinch, which is how you can control your plant's final size and shape. Pinch your plant every two to four weeks until midsummer, and then stop so it can develop buds and blooms in time for fall.

Cutting amaryllis leaves back at the right time is a key part of amaryllis care and essential to make the plant rebloom. The leaves should remain on the plant while they are still green. Knowing when to cut back the leaves lets you enjoy the bloom of amaryllis year after year instead of treating it like an annual flower that is discarded after it flowers (usually around Christmastime). Learn why the timing of cutting back amaryllis leaves is so important for the bloom and how to do it. When Should You Cut Back Amaryllis Leaves? Only cut the leaves of your amaryllis back when they have turned yellow and brown, after the plant has finished blooming. Even if they look a bit unsightly, resist the urge to remove the leaves while they are still green. During that stage, photosynthesis is still taking place and the plant is still growing, storing energy for future leaf growth and flowers. After the leaves have turned yellow and brown, the plant enters a brief rest period during which it stops growing before it restarts growing new leaves. 7 Essential Tasks to Do After Amaryllis Blooms After your amaryllis blooms, remove the faded flowers promptly so it does not form any seeds, which would unnecessarily deplete their energy. However, do not remove the thick, sturdy flower stalk; leave it on the plant until it has turned yellow. Just like the leaves, the flower stalk is important for photosynthesis while it’s green. Once the flower stalk has turned yellow, cut it off with sharp pruners or a knife sterilized with alcohol. Cut the flower stalk to a height of about a half inch and one inch above the bulb. Place your amaryllis in the sunniest possible location, preferably a south- or west-facing window. Continue to water it so the soil is consistently moist but not wet. Water whenever the top two inches of soil feel dry. Keep fertilizing it every two to three weeks with an all-purpose houseplant plant fertilizer, diluted to half strength. The plant will continue to grow leaves for a while. Once the leaves turn yellow or brown, let them fall on their own or cut them off. At this point, the plant has entered its brief rest period. Stop fertilizing the plant and cut back on the watering. How to Prune Amaryllis Leaves If you get the timing right, cutting back the yellow or brown amaryllis leaves is very simple. Cut the leaves 2 inches above the bulb, using sharp sterilized pruners or a knife. Afterward, you have two options for what to do with the bulbs. You can either remove it from its pot, clean it, and store the bulbs in a cool and dark place for a minimum of 6 weeks, or leave it in its pot and let it undergo a longer, more natural process to rebloom. What Should You Do With Amaryllis Plants in the Summer? Amaryllis thrives in the sun. If possible, move your potted amaryllis outside on your patio or deck during the summer, which will help it bloom more fully later in the season. In the spring, after there is no more danger of frost, slowly acclimate the amaryllis to outdoor conditions. Start by placing it in a location with partial shade or dappled light, such as under an umbrella. Gradually move it to a location where it gets full sun for at least 6 hours every day.1 Outdoors, the soil dries out much faster than indoors. Adjust the watering accordingly. Fertilize the plant monthly with an all-purpose houseplant fertilizer. Make sure to return the plants indoors before the first fall frost. If you cannot move your amaryllis outdoors for the summer, place it in a window where it gets maximum sun and follow the same watering and fertilizing routine as described above.

Mums are one of the most popular fall flowers for their beautiful red, brown, yellow and pink blooms that perfectly encapsulate fall. But of course, sometimes no matter how hard you try, flowers have a mind of their own and may dry out or die before you can even enjoy them. Here are the four most common issues with mums and how to tackle them. Mum Leaves Are Turning Yellow If you are noticing your mums not looking as good as your next-door neighbors, you aren't alone. While mums are certainly tough and can withstand a lot of outdoor factors, they can wilt, shrivel up and not bloom just like any other flower or plant. But don't fret, we've got you covered so your mums can get the care they deserve and start looking as good as new. If you're noticing your mums leaves are discolored and turning from a bright green to an unsightly yellow color, it could be mildew on your mums. To help reverse this, as soon as you notice the discoloring of the mums, dust your mums with finely ground sulfur. Then, repeat this step once a week until buds turn a better color.1 Want more gardening tips? Sign up for our free gardening newsletter for our best-growing tips, troubleshooting hacks, and more! Flowers Are Turning Brown If you notice your mums drying out and turning from beautiful blooms to an unsightly brown or rust color, it's time to water, water, and water some more. Mums hate being dry and need a ton of moisture to keep looking fresh all day long. When grown in pots on your stoop, on hot days in early fall, it's common for mums to need water twice a day. When they are dehydrated, their leaves will start to droop, which you don't want at all. Fortunately, water will for the most part perk them up almost instantly.2 Mums Are Looking Untidy and Wilting Another common issue for mums is them looking disheveled and not as neat from when you first bought them. Mums can quickly go from looking perfect, to many blooms looking out of place, disorderly, and wilting. Luckily, this common issue is so easy to fix. Make sure to trim back any flowers that are looking depleted, and be sure to prune any dried up leaves or broken stems.3 Mums Aren't Blooming The last common problem is the worst of all: noticing your mums aren't blooming at all. This could actually be because of the kind of mum you purchased. There are thousands of varieties of mums and some are best for early season of fall versus the late season of fall. If your mums aren't blooming, you may have picked the variety of mums that require a longer period of darkness. Then, if the temperatures plummet, there's no way they will survive the cold. Another possibility is that the dark period your plants are being exposed to is being interrupted. This happens a lot when mums are planted or placed near street or front porch lights. These lights interrupt the darkness that your mums needs to thrive and can delay flower production.

If your hydrangeas put on a spectacular summer show of blooms they deserve some attention for the winter. If they don't perform very well, they deserve winter care even more to encourage better performance next summer. We've gathered five tasks and some tips you should be doing to care for hydrangeas in the winter to keep your plants healthy and happy. Provide Winter Moisture to Hydrangeas Hydrangeas are thirsty plants that require hydration throughout the growing season and even in dormant months. If you live in an area where the ground freezes hard, continue to water deeply and consistently until the ground freezes solid. In areas where the ground does not freeze, hydrangeas should be watered deeply but infrequently during the winter. Monitor rainfall carefully because winter precipitation may offer enough moisture. Add Nutrients the Right Way Commercial fertilizers, especially those with a high nitrogen NPK count, should never be used on hydrangeas at the end of the growing season. The nitrogen will cause a sudden spurt of green growth that will be killed with the first frost. Instead, supplement the soil with a few inches of compost that will break down slowly during the winter months. In warmer hardiness zones (7 and above), apply the compost in late fall or early winter by layering it directly over the soil. In colder zones, wait until the ground has frozen and top-dress the soil with compost before you apply mulch to protect the roots. Protect the Root System With Mulch Whether you are in an area where the ground freezes or in a warmer zone, adding mulch will protect the roots by acting as an insulator and help retain moisture. After the ground freezes or in early winter, add about six to eight inches of mulch over the compost top-dressing. Don't mulch too early in warmer zones because that can cause rotting, disease, and provide shelter for munching rodents. Remember that thick mulch should be removed when spring buds appear. For small plants in cold temperature zones (6 and lower), the mulch can be applied as a mountain covering the majority of the hydrangea. Protect Hydrangeas With a Burlap Wrap If you live in zone 6 or lower, your hydrangeas will benefit from a burlap wrap to protect them from heavy snow drifts and drying winter winds. Growers in warmer zones don't need to worry about wrapping plants unless the hydrangeas are on a northern slope and temperatures below 0 degrees are expected for multiple days. One way to construct a burlap wrap is to place bamboo stakes in a circle around the hydrangea. Wrap a couple of layers of burlap around the stakes and secure it with twine. For larger plants or a bed of hydrangeas, build a frame with four or more posts and stretch chicken wire around the posts. The wire should be at least six inches taller than the top of the hydrangea. Add a couple of layers of burlap around the outside of the wire and secure it often with twine. Prune Hydrangeas Wisely While winter pruning is recommended for fruit trees, it's not the best time to prune hydrangeas except to remove limbs broken by strong winds or heavy snow. The best time to prune a hydrangea to produce the most blooms next summer depends on whether the shrub blooms on new wood (growth produced in the current season) or old wood (growth from the previous season). New wood hydrangeas(panicle and smooth varieties): Wait until early winter when the plant is dormant. Fall or winter pruning can be done to remove dried blooms and help shape the plant. Old wood hydrangeas (mophead and oakleaf): should only be pruned immediately after flowering in the spring and summer. Most horticulturists recommend no pruning after August 31. Additional Tips for Winter Hydrangea Care Bring container-grown hydrangeas indoors when temperatures fall below freezing. Water the plants sparingly to prevent root rot. To help hydrangeas overwinter in extremely cold zones, planting them near a heat-holding structure like a brick wall or foundation. Choose a spot with bright sunlight and protection from winter winds. Regularly inspect sheltered or wrapped hydrangeas and clear away heavy snow.