gardening

Determining when to pick bell peppers depends on which variety you grew, but expect to wait 60-90 days to harvest. If you start the peppers from seed, they can take closer to 90-150 days to harvest. But we promise, it's worth the wait! These warm-season vegetables, from the time you plant until they are ready to pick, take longer than almost all other garden crops. Other influencing factors include temperature, water, soil composition, and pest control. Read on to learn when your bell peppers are ready to pick. 3 Signs Your Bell Peppers Are Ready to Harvest Peppers are 3-4 inches long. Most standard-size bell peppers mature at 3- to 4-inches long and wide with a blocky shape. Some giant varieties grow a bit larger, while others (like pimento peppers) may be tapered at the bottom. Fruits are weighty. All peppers should feel solid, slightly heavy, and firm to the touch with just a slight give when pressed with your thumb. Color blushes from top to bottom. Color should be uniform throughout with a glossy appearance. 5 Top Tips for Harvesting Bell Peppers Bell peppers come in a rainbow of colors other than green including red, orange, yellow, purple, white, and brown. As a general rule of thumb, differently colored peppers take longer to mature than green bell peppers. Follow these tips for the best pepper harvest: Pick green peppers anytime, but leave them on the vine another two to three weeks for a sweeter pepper with a richer color. Green peppers that have started to turn will continue to ripen and change color after picking if set out in a cool, dark location for several days. Ripening off the vine, though, can result in loss of sweetness and flavor. Don't try to pull peppers off the plant. Use a snipper or pruner to clip fruits and leave a good amount of stem attached. Harvest peppers right away when they show signs of insect damage or sun-scald. The undamaged portion is still edible. Remove any soft or mushy fruits and dispose of them. This directs energy into maturing viable fruits. How to Harvest Bell Peppers Peppers on each plant ripen at different times over several weeks. You may find one ripe pepper on your plant or several ready to harvest at once. Here's how to pick your peppers. When the recommended "days to harvest: approaches, check plants daily for mature fruit. Pick peppers on a dry day or in the morning after dew has dried. Working in wet plants can damage foliage or spread disease. Remove ripe peppers from the plant by supporting the pepper in your nondominant hand and using your dominant hand to clip the stem where it attaches to the branch. Use an appropriate cutting tool and never pull on the fruit or the branch. Pepper branches can break easily. Peppers without stems should be used right away. Store harvested peppers in the refrigerator crisper drawer for up to two weeks in mesh or plastic bags. Add a dry paper towel to plastic bags and leave bags open to prevent accumulation of moisture.

When their skin is shiny and consistently purple, it’s time to harvest your homegrown eggplants. You can watch for a few telltale signs that your eggplant is ready to pick, especially if it's reached it's days to maturity. Eggplants are ready to pick when they have reached their full size, are firm and shiny, and give slightly when you press your fingernail in the skin. Read on to get the details about picking perfectly ripe eggplants for your dinner table. When to Pick Eggplant Three factors determine when eggplant is ready to be picked: days to maturity, planting or seeding time, and growing conditions. The days to maturity for eggplant range between 55 and 70 days. Mini eggplants and some smaller Asian eggplants mature the fastest. You’ll find the days to maturity listed on the seed packet. Soil temperature has been consistently warm. Once seedlings emerge, the ideal soil temperature is around 70°F. Much hotter or colder temperatures affect seedling growth, which then prolongs the time to harvest. The plants flowered a few weeks ago. Instead of doing the math, you can also start keeping an eye on the plants once they start to flower, as the fruit will form within a couple of weeks after flowering. 4 Signs Your Eggplants Are Ready to Pick If the eggplants meet all the criteria below, they are ready to be harvested: The fruit has reached full size. Check the variety description for the mature size, usually given in length by inches. Baby or mini eggplants are harvested much smaller, around 3 inches long. The eggplants are plump yet firm. Gently press on the skin with a fingernail. If the skin bounces back, the eggplant is ready to pick. If the indentation remains, it needs more time. The skin is shiny. All immature and just ripe eggplants have glossy skin. Once the fruits are overripe, the skin will turn dull. The eggplants have consistent coloring. This is an easy one for eggplant that is only one color, and it requires a closer look at speckled eggplant varieties such as ‘Fairy Tale’ or ‘Graffiti’. How to Pick Eggplant Wear gloves when picking eggplants, as some varieties have sharp thorns on their leaves, stems, and on the star-like leafy cap at the top of the fruit. Use garden pruners/shears to cut the eggplant off the thick stem. Never try to twist or break the eggplant off the fruit, as it damages the plant. Cut the fruit about one inch above the calyx. Make sure to leave the calyx intact on each fruit. Eggplants are prone to bruising, so handle them gently. Eggplant harvest on the same plant may last from several days to a few weeks. Once you've begun harvesting, check back for ripe fruit a couple of times a week. Frequent harvesting encourages the plants to continue producing. How to Store Eggplant Store eggplant at around 50°F. Store them in the fridge in a plastic bag or wrapped in a damp dish towel. This protects the eggplant from the chilling injury and the drying air of your fridge, which is about ten degrees too cold for eggplant. In the crisper of your fridge, unprotected eggplants will experience chilling injury, which appears as skin shrinkage. Eggplants with signs of chilling injury are still safe to eat, but fruits will spoil more quickly once they've been affected. Use eggplant stored in the crisper within five days. 4 Additional Tips for Growing Eggplant Do not plant eggplant in the same location where you grew other members of the nightshade family (tomatoes, peppers) for the two last seasons, preferably longer. Following crop rotation prevents pests and diseases. Staking eggplants protects them from getting knocked over by strong winds and rainstorms. A single stake is usually sufficient. Install it while the plant is still small to avoid disturbing the roots once the plants are established. Keep pests such as flea beetles away from young plants by draping a row cover of hoops. The row cover should not be placed directly on the plants. Remove the cover once the plants are flowering. Use a fertilizer that is low in nitrogen and high in phosphorus and potassium. Excess nitrogen leads to lots of foliage without fruit.

There are around 300 species of hibiscus plants, but cranberry hibiscus is one of the showiest with vibrant pink and red flowers and palmate leaves in a dramatically dark burgundy hue. A prime choice for sunny flower beds and container gardens, cranberry hibiscus is only winter hardy in zones 8 through 11, but it can be grown as an annual or overwintered indoors in cooler locations. Whether growing cranberry hibiscus for its edible leaves and flowers or for ornamental use, this guide will teach you how to plant, grow, and tend this hardy hibiscus through the changing seasons. When to Plant Cranberry hibiscus plants are sensitive to frost, so they should only be planted outdoors in frost-free weather. In most areas, spring is the best time for planting hibiscus, although cranberry hibiscus can also be planted in summer (as long as the plants are watered often). To plant cranberry hibiscus: Dig a hole slightly larger than your hibiscus root ball and amend the soil with compost. Situate the plant in the hole at the same level that it was growing in its nursery pot, backfill the hole, firm the soil around the plant’s base, and apply a 2 to 3-inch layer of mulch. Water your plant well to help it acclimate, and begin fertilizing about 2 to 3 weeks after planting. Cranberry Hibiscus Care Tips If you love lots of garden color, cranberry hibiscus plants are hard to beat. These multi-stemmed shrubs can be used as backdrop plants to highlight the colors and shapes of other heat-loving ornamentals, like acanthus, caladium, and pineapple sage, but they can also be planted on their own. Cranberry hibiscus can also thrive in a roomy planter, which is a great option if you want to use these plants to highlight garden walkways or draw attention to a sunny front porch. Cranberry hibiscus flowers are best in full-sun locations. Most soil types are suitable for hibiscus, as long as the soil is well-draining and the plants are watered often. Pruning cranberry hibiscus to a leaf node can correct leggy stems and make plants bushier. Growers in cold climates can grow these plants as annuals, overwinter them in greenhouses, or propagate new plants from stem cuttings and grow the cuttings as houseplants through winter. Light Although cranberry hibiscus can be grown in partial shade, full sun is recommended if you want your plants to have the best color and to bloom well. Low-light gardens can cause cranberry hibiscus stems to become leggy and may make their deep burgundy leaves shift into dull shades of brown. That said, growers in hot climates may want to shelter their hibiscus plants with shade cloth during extreme heat to avoid issues with sunscald. Soil Most soil types are appropriate for hibiscus plants, although rich and well-draining soils are ideal. To give your plants an advantage, mix some compost or rotted manure into your planting holes before planting hibiscus. Water Like other hibiscus plants, cranberry hibiscus loves water. Water regularly with at least 1 inch of water per week. However, container plants may need water twice a day in hot weather. Fertilizer To keep cranberry hibiscus plants in bloom, fertilize your hibiscus every 4 to 6 weeks from spring through early August. Liquid organic fertilizers are usually the best choice for these plants. Pruning Cranberry hibiscus grows quickly and produces long stems that can become leggy and unwieldy if plants aren’t pruned regularly. To encourage your plants to develop a sturdier and bushier growth habit, clip wayward stems back to a leaf node, reshaping as you go, and consider installing stakes or supports if your plants seem to need them. Commons Problems These plants are generally pest and disease-resistant. However, even these hardy hibiscus plants can sometimes develop issues: Broken stems can occur when hibiscus plants are grown in windy areas. Planting hibiscus in a protected spot and installing plant supports can help you avoid this issue. However, if your hibiscus stems break, make a clean cut at a leaf node and throw the broken stem in your compost pile. Root rot develops when hibiscus plants are grown in overly saturated soil. Planting hibiscus in well-draining gardens can prevent this issue, as long as you don’t overwater! Pests, like mealybugs, Japanese beetles, and thrips can sometimes plague hibiscus plants. Handpicking works well for larger insects, while organic soap sprays can tackle most smaller pests with ease. How to Propagate Cranberry Hibiscus Cranberry hibiscus plants can be propagated either from seeds or stem cuttings, although propagation via stem cuttings is easier and much faster. Cut 12-inch long stem cuttings from healthy hibiscus plants using sharp, sterilized pruners. Remove the lower leaves and dip the cut stem end in rooting compound. Plant the cut stem end a few inches deep in a pot filled with damp potting mix. Cover the pot and cutting with a clear plastic bag to boost humidity and then place the pot on a heating mat to help roots develop faster. Move the pot under a grow light or into a window that receives bright, indirect light and water regularly until the plant roots. Rooted cuttings can be kept indoors as houseplants through winter, but plants can also be transitioned directly out into the garden after a period of hardening off. Types to Grow Careful plant breeding has produced a number of colorful and attractive cranberry hibiscus cultivars for container-growing or larger gardens. While you can find other types of cranberry hibiscus on the market, these varieties are always popular! ‘Panama Red’: Although ‘Panama Red’ is an infrequent bloomer, it still steals the show with its heat tolerance and eye-catching, coppery-red leaves. ‘Haight Ashbury’: A top choice for garden borders and containers, ‘Haight Ashbury’ maxes out at around 5 feet tall and produces deep red blooms towards the end of summer. ‘Jungle Red’: Growing between 4 and 6 feet tall, ‘Jungle Red’ is a versatile plant that blooms from late summer into winter in mild climates. Uses When in bloom, hibiscus flowers are magnets for all sorts of pollinators, including hummingbirds, bees, and butterflies. On top of that, cranberry hibiscus leaves and flowers are edible and they can be used to add color and a tangy taste to hot and cold teas, stir-fries, salads, sauces, and more. Blooming The short days and long nights at the end of summer and into fall trigger cranberry hibiscus plants to produce their large, pink, and red flowers. Ensuring that your plants receive enough light and fertilizer can increase the chances of flowering.

Mandevilla, known commonly as "rock trumpet," is a perennial vine in USDA hardiness zones 10 to 11. This tropical plant does not survive cold temperatures, so you must take steps to overwinter it. If you grew mandevilla in large pots for summer displays, an advantage is that, with cold temperatures on the horizon in fall, you can simply move your plant inside to protect it from the cold. Learn how to overwinter mandevilla, including two overwintering options, what to do after you have brought it indoors, and whether or not you should cut it back for winter. Your Options for Overwintering Mandevilla There are two main ways to overwinter your mandevilla plant, but both involve bringing it indoors. If you have sufficient room in your house, grow it as a houseplant over the winter. If you lack space, locate it in a storage area and allow it to go dormant. Growing Mandevilla as a Houseplant If you have been growing mandevilla outdoors in a pot, all you need to do is bring the pot indoors. If you have been growing it in the ground, you will have to pot it up. To do so, follow these steps: Select the right pot size: Select a container that is a bit larger than your Mandevilla's root ball. This will allow the roots to spread. Avoid a container that's too big: It will retain excessive water, potentially leading to root rot. Fill the pot with potting mix: Mandevilla wants good drainage. A potting mix drains better than garden soil. If the container is large, place small stones in the bottom for even better drainage. Plant your Mandevilla: Dig a hole big enough to accommodate the root ball. Place your Mandevilla in the hole, keeping its base at the same level of the soil as it was while growing outdoors. Tamp the soil down: Gently push down around your mandevilla to ensure it rests firmly in the soil. Water: Moisten the soil, but avoid overwatering. Bringing Mandevilla Indoors and Let It Go Dormant The other option to overwinter mandevilla is to bring it, container and all, indoors, or pot it up and bring it indoors. Except, here, rather than treating it as a houseplant, you are providing conditions that will allow it to "sleep" through the winter. Store it in a cool (but not cold), dark place (for example, a basement). Temperatures in the 50s (F) will be ideal. Water the plant only when the soil is completely dry. How to Care for Mandevilla After Overwintering After you have begun the overwintering process by bringing your plant indoors, your care regimen will differ depending on whether you are overwintering mandevilla as a houseplant or in a dormant state: As a Houseplant: If you're treating it as a houseplant, give it a temperature of 65° to 70°, with as much humidity as possible. Give it bright but indirect sunlight, and keep its soil evenly moist (but don't let it get soggy). Any fertilizer you apply to a mandevilla houseplant should be applied at a weaker dose than when you fertilize it outdoors. The plant won't grow as vigorously indoors, and excessive fertilizer would only harm it. As a Dormant Plant: Since you won't be showing off your mandevilla as a houseplant, prune it back to just a few inches above the soil. This will help prepare it for next summer. Make sure the temperature is above 45° to 50° Fahrenheit. Keep it in the dark and water it very sparingly. Apply no fertilizer to a mandevilla being kept dormant. Should You Cut Back Mandevilla for Winter? If you will be keeping your mandevilla in a dormant state, prune it to within a few inches of the soil surface. Even if you are growing it as a houseplant, prune it in early spring to prepare it for the new growing season. Remove some of the older stems, along with any stems that are crisscrossing. This will open up the plant (improving air circulation) and reinvigorate it.

Mums flower in the fall months, and their prolific blooms make them a staple in many gardens and fall porch displays alike. While they don’t require much upkeep, deadheading is the simple task that will regularly encourage better, more long-lasting blooms in your fall mums. Here’s everything you need to know about deadheading mums, including how to do it, when the best time to deadhead is, and things to avoid. Benefits of Deadheading One common misconception about mums is that they are annuals, often sold in planters during the late summer for autumnal displays. However, with the proper care, mums can return year after year and provide an endless display of fall color. Aside from planting your Chrysanthemum in the ground (versus keeping it in a planter), deadheading is one of the best ways to ensure your plant develops strong growth and establishes itself for overwintering. Regular deadheading provides the following benefits to chrysanthemums: Encourage the plant to produce more blooms, extending the flowering period. Redirect energy from spent blooms to the roots, which helps to establish the plant. Prevent disease by clearing away dead and dying blooms and foliage. When Is the Best Time to Deadhead Mums? Deadheading should take place during the flowering season once blooms are spent. The trick is to deadhead the flowers once the color has faded, not when they have already turned brown and crispy. Waiting for the flowers to dry out means the blooms have already started setting seeds, wasting valuable energy and resources for the plant. Since mums can bloom for up to 10 weeks, deadheading is an ongoing task that should be tackled once every week or two. Luckily, when done regularly, deadheading your plant(s) should only take you a few minutes at a time—a small yet important task. How to Deadhead Mums Using your fingers or a pair of clean garden shears, remove spent blooms a couple of inches below the flower head. This will result in the cut stem being hidden by the plant’s foliage for a more attractive and healthy-looking plant. Repeat this process regularly during the blooming period. Pinching Back vs. Deadheading Mums ‘Pinching back’ (or simply ‘pinching’) and deadheading are not the same thing, although they are often confused with one another. While deadheading involves removing spent blooms from the plant to encourage more prolific flowering, pinching involves removing the growing tip of a shoot or stem to encourage it to branch. It’s a conservative form of pruning that creates a bushier, fuller, and healthier plant. Left to their own devices, mums will grow tall and leggy, so pinching is essential to creating the mounding shape we associate with these fall flowers. Pinching should be done in the spring or early summer once the plant is about six inches tall. Use your fingers to remove any existing buds and non-budded growth tips. Remember that the plant will fork off wherever you pinch, which is how you can control your plant's final size and shape. Pinch your plant every two to four weeks until midsummer, and then stop so it can develop buds and blooms in time for fall.

Cutting amaryllis leaves back at the right time is a key part of amaryllis care and essential to make the plant rebloom. The leaves should remain on the plant while they are still green. Knowing when to cut back the leaves lets you enjoy the bloom of amaryllis year after year instead of treating it like an annual flower that is discarded after it flowers (usually around Christmastime). Learn why the timing of cutting back amaryllis leaves is so important for the bloom and how to do it. When Should You Cut Back Amaryllis Leaves? Only cut the leaves of your amaryllis back when they have turned yellow and brown, after the plant has finished blooming. Even if they look a bit unsightly, resist the urge to remove the leaves while they are still green. During that stage, photosynthesis is still taking place and the plant is still growing, storing energy for future leaf growth and flowers. After the leaves have turned yellow and brown, the plant enters a brief rest period during which it stops growing before it restarts growing new leaves. 7 Essential Tasks to Do After Amaryllis Blooms After your amaryllis blooms, remove the faded flowers promptly so it does not form any seeds, which would unnecessarily deplete their energy. However, do not remove the thick, sturdy flower stalk; leave it on the plant until it has turned yellow. Just like the leaves, the flower stalk is important for photosynthesis while it’s green. Once the flower stalk has turned yellow, cut it off with sharp pruners or a knife sterilized with alcohol. Cut the flower stalk to a height of about a half inch and one inch above the bulb. Place your amaryllis in the sunniest possible location, preferably a south- or west-facing window. Continue to water it so the soil is consistently moist but not wet. Water whenever the top two inches of soil feel dry. Keep fertilizing it every two to three weeks with an all-purpose houseplant plant fertilizer, diluted to half strength. The plant will continue to grow leaves for a while. Once the leaves turn yellow or brown, let them fall on their own or cut them off. At this point, the plant has entered its brief rest period. Stop fertilizing the plant and cut back on the watering. How to Prune Amaryllis Leaves If you get the timing right, cutting back the yellow or brown amaryllis leaves is very simple. Cut the leaves 2 inches above the bulb, using sharp sterilized pruners or a knife. Afterward, you have two options for what to do with the bulbs. You can either remove it from its pot, clean it, and store the bulbs in a cool and dark place for a minimum of 6 weeks, or leave it in its pot and let it undergo a longer, more natural process to rebloom. What Should You Do With Amaryllis Plants in the Summer? Amaryllis thrives in the sun. If possible, move your potted amaryllis outside on your patio or deck during the summer, which will help it bloom more fully later in the season. In the spring, after there is no more danger of frost, slowly acclimate the amaryllis to outdoor conditions. Start by placing it in a location with partial shade or dappled light, such as under an umbrella. Gradually move it to a location where it gets full sun for at least 6 hours every day.1 Outdoors, the soil dries out much faster than indoors. Adjust the watering accordingly. Fertilize the plant monthly with an all-purpose houseplant fertilizer. Make sure to return the plants indoors before the first fall frost. If you cannot move your amaryllis outdoors for the summer, place it in a window where it gets maximum sun and follow the same watering and fertilizing routine as described above.

Mums are one of the most popular fall flowers for their beautiful red, brown, yellow and pink blooms that perfectly encapsulate fall. But of course, sometimes no matter how hard you try, flowers have a mind of their own and may dry out or die before you can even enjoy them. Here are the four most common issues with mums and how to tackle them. Mum Leaves Are Turning Yellow If you are noticing your mums not looking as good as your next-door neighbors, you aren't alone. While mums are certainly tough and can withstand a lot of outdoor factors, they can wilt, shrivel up and not bloom just like any other flower or plant. But don't fret, we've got you covered so your mums can get the care they deserve and start looking as good as new. If you're noticing your mums leaves are discolored and turning from a bright green to an unsightly yellow color, it could be mildew on your mums. To help reverse this, as soon as you notice the discoloring of the mums, dust your mums with finely ground sulfur. Then, repeat this step once a week until buds turn a better color.1 Want more gardening tips? Sign up for our free gardening newsletter for our best-growing tips, troubleshooting hacks, and more! Flowers Are Turning Brown If you notice your mums drying out and turning from beautiful blooms to an unsightly brown or rust color, it's time to water, water, and water some more. Mums hate being dry and need a ton of moisture to keep looking fresh all day long. When grown in pots on your stoop, on hot days in early fall, it's common for mums to need water twice a day. When they are dehydrated, their leaves will start to droop, which you don't want at all. Fortunately, water will for the most part perk them up almost instantly.2 Mums Are Looking Untidy and Wilting Another common issue for mums is them looking disheveled and not as neat from when you first bought them. Mums can quickly go from looking perfect, to many blooms looking out of place, disorderly, and wilting. Luckily, this common issue is so easy to fix. Make sure to trim back any flowers that are looking depleted, and be sure to prune any dried up leaves or broken stems.3 Mums Aren't Blooming The last common problem is the worst of all: noticing your mums aren't blooming at all. This could actually be because of the kind of mum you purchased. There are thousands of varieties of mums and some are best for early season of fall versus the late season of fall. If your mums aren't blooming, you may have picked the variety of mums that require a longer period of darkness. Then, if the temperatures plummet, there's no way they will survive the cold. Another possibility is that the dark period your plants are being exposed to is being interrupted. This happens a lot when mums are planted or placed near street or front porch lights. These lights interrupt the darkness that your mums needs to thrive and can delay flower production.

If your hydrangeas put on a spectacular summer show of blooms they deserve some attention for the winter. If they don't perform very well, they deserve winter care even more to encourage better performance next summer. We've gathered five tasks and some tips you should be doing to care for hydrangeas in the winter to keep your plants healthy and happy. Provide Winter Moisture to Hydrangeas Hydrangeas are thirsty plants that require hydration throughout the growing season and even in dormant months. If you live in an area where the ground freezes hard, continue to water deeply and consistently until the ground freezes solid. In areas where the ground does not freeze, hydrangeas should be watered deeply but infrequently during the winter. Monitor rainfall carefully because winter precipitation may offer enough moisture. Add Nutrients the Right Way Commercial fertilizers, especially those with a high nitrogen NPK count, should never be used on hydrangeas at the end of the growing season. The nitrogen will cause a sudden spurt of green growth that will be killed with the first frost. Instead, supplement the soil with a few inches of compost that will break down slowly during the winter months. In warmer hardiness zones (7 and above), apply the compost in late fall or early winter by layering it directly over the soil. In colder zones, wait until the ground has frozen and top-dress the soil with compost before you apply mulch to protect the roots. Protect the Root System With Mulch Whether you are in an area where the ground freezes or in a warmer zone, adding mulch will protect the roots by acting as an insulator and help retain moisture. After the ground freezes or in early winter, add about six to eight inches of mulch over the compost top-dressing. Don't mulch too early in warmer zones because that can cause rotting, disease, and provide shelter for munching rodents. Remember that thick mulch should be removed when spring buds appear. For small plants in cold temperature zones (6 and lower), the mulch can be applied as a mountain covering the majority of the hydrangea. Protect Hydrangeas With a Burlap Wrap If you live in zone 6 or lower, your hydrangeas will benefit from a burlap wrap to protect them from heavy snow drifts and drying winter winds. Growers in warmer zones don't need to worry about wrapping plants unless the hydrangeas are on a northern slope and temperatures below 0 degrees are expected for multiple days. One way to construct a burlap wrap is to place bamboo stakes in a circle around the hydrangea. Wrap a couple of layers of burlap around the stakes and secure it with twine. For larger plants or a bed of hydrangeas, build a frame with four or more posts and stretch chicken wire around the posts. The wire should be at least six inches taller than the top of the hydrangea. Add a couple of layers of burlap around the outside of the wire and secure it often with twine. Prune Hydrangeas Wisely While winter pruning is recommended for fruit trees, it's not the best time to prune hydrangeas except to remove limbs broken by strong winds or heavy snow. The best time to prune a hydrangea to produce the most blooms next summer depends on whether the shrub blooms on new wood (growth produced in the current season) or old wood (growth from the previous season). New wood hydrangeas(panicle and smooth varieties): Wait until early winter when the plant is dormant. Fall or winter pruning can be done to remove dried blooms and help shape the plant. Old wood hydrangeas (mophead and oakleaf): should only be pruned immediately after flowering in the spring and summer. Most horticulturists recommend no pruning after August 31. Additional Tips for Winter Hydrangea Care Bring container-grown hydrangeas indoors when temperatures fall below freezing. Water the plants sparingly to prevent root rot. To help hydrangeas overwinter in extremely cold zones, planting them near a heat-holding structure like a brick wall or foundation. Choose a spot with bright sunlight and protection from winter winds. Regularly inspect sheltered or wrapped hydrangeas and clear away heavy snow.

Tomato plants are rapidly growing vines that need support, especially once the heavy fruits begin to ripen. Tomato cages are a practical, affordable option, especially when you're growing just a few plants. Cages are designed to provide structure, support vines, and keep fruit from contacting soil which causes it to rot. Gardeners have plenty of options regarding size, material, and ease of use, but there are several factors to consider when choosing the best tomato cage for your crop. Choose the Right Tomato Cage The sturdiest tomato cages are constructed of metal, steel, or wood and may or may not have a weather-resistant finish. Powder coating extends the life of the product and protects your hands from hot surfaces when working with your plants. Cages come in several shapes including square, triangular, cone-shaped, and rings. Standards differ according to shape but a cage between two and three feet wide and four and six feet tall accommodates most tomato varieties. Many offer adjustable horizontal bars that attach with connectors, allowing you to move them up the vertical stakes as needed. Vertical stakes extend at the bottom to anchor cages in the soil. Many fold for easy storage but cone-shaped cages take up more room in the garden shed, though they are usually the least costly. A mature plant supported correctly should not fall over or collapse the cage. Cages for Determinate Versus Indeterminate Tomatoes Determinate tomatoes produce fruit all at once which increases the weight load on vines. Plenty have a bushy growing habit with shorter, thicker vines to support multiple fruits. A cage four feet tall and two feet wide constructed with sturdy materials is usually adequate. Good air circulation is especially important for compact plants, so use a narrower cage to separate and evenly spread branching vines from bottom to top. Triangular or square-shaped cages work well for determinate tomatoes. Indeterminate tomatoes produce fruits all season, harvested as they ripen. This reduces weight load, however, vines often grow to 10 feet in length. A taller six-foot cone-shaped or square cage with a three-foot diameter is better suited for indeterminate tomato varieties. Cages with movable horizontal supports allow you to adjust as vines lengthen providing structure where the plant needs it most. Cages for Potted Tomatoes Growing tomatoes in pots limits your choices to cages that fit the diameter and depth of your pot. Anchor stakes should fit down inside the pot without bending. Cages as short as 15 inches and just six inches in diameter are available but keep your tomato variety, fruit size, and height of the mature plant in mind when selecting a cage support. When to Add Tomato Cages It's always a good idea to add cages at planting time. Add cages to potted tomatoes right after planting to make sure everything fits snugly and correctly. In the garden, you can wait until young plants begin to branch out, two to three weeks after transplanting. They are entering into vegetative growth when vines grow rapidly and root systems begin to spread. Waiting too long to place a cage can leave you stymied by a tangle of vines and anchor stakes can damage feeder roots. How a Tomato Cage Supports a Plant Tomato plants have a built-in anchor called a tap root that can extend into soil to depths of three feet, but this rarely balances out heavy top growth. Cages provide additional support and help you manage vines for better disease control and fruit production. Strong vines will support fruit. When the main stem begins to branch each new vine is attached to the lowest horizontal support, separated, and placed to balance growth evenly. As vines lengthen upwards they are attached to the next horizontal support in the same manner. The idea is to reinforce their weight-bearing capacity along as much length as possible. When used correctly, a tomato cage allows good air circulation in the plant's center. It prevents stress damage to vines that can weaken and break with heavy fruit or environmental factors like high winds. How to Add Tomato Cages to Your Plants Tomato cages are an easy way to get started with an uncomplicated, workable system for supporting your crop. Select a size and design based on your tomato variety. Position the cage with the planted tomato seedling in the center. Push the anchor stakes into the soil to a depth of eight inches applying pressure evenly on the top of the cage. Extensions on the bottom are designed to penetrate the soil easily, however, if you meet resistance, try applying pressure on the lower part of the cage first, or use a mallet to gently tap the top bars. Find a section on the first branching vine with a well-developed leaf and stem on either side and place a soft tie, like twine, on the vine below the leaves. The double "V" formed by the leaves prevents the vine from slipping. Tomato vines thicken as they mature so always allow space by tying them loosely to the cage. If the branch is already flowering or a small fruit has formed, leave extra room for it to develop or choose a different spot to attach. It's fine for fruit to develop inside the cage. Knot the twine against the bar of the cage. Knots placed against vines can rub, strip the surface and invite disease and pests. Follow the plant's natural upward growth pattern and avoid attaching vines in a way that stretches or pulls. New growth is flexible and can be positioned but tying it to a support can cause it to break or wilt. Heavy rain and high winds can displace tomato cages. Reset the cage, centering it, and gently ease the anchor stakes back into the soil. Single metal, wood, or bamboo stakes can be added and tied tightly to vertical cage supports if needed.

The butterfly pea plant, Clitoria ternatea, is a tropical, perennial, and climbing vine that blooms in the summer with flowers noted for producing natural dyes. Although they're mostly grown for their vivid blue, purple, and white flowers, their plants also produce long flat pods containing six to ten peas, which are edible when harvested young. Vines grow to ten feet in length but have a twining habit that keeps plants to a tidy three feet tall. Leaves are medium green and broader at the base tapering to a point. Native to Indonesia, this is a short-lived perennial that grows in USDA zones 9 to 11. It is cultivated as an annual in northern zones or grown in pots and overwintered indoors as a biennial. The blue flowers are edible and are a natural food coloring in Asian cuisine. They are added to beverages and are a popular ingredient in "Butterfly Pea Tea."1 Butterfly pea plant is widely grown as an ornamental and reclamation plant that fixes nitrogen in soil. How to Plant Butterfly Pea The butterfly pea is a hardy plant that requires warm growing conditions with plenty of sun. Easily grown from seed, both plants, and seeds are offered by specialty growers. When to Plant Start seeds indoors 8 to 10 weeks before the final frost in your growing zone, or directly sow the seed in the garden in early spring in zones 9 and higher. Purchased plants and seedlings can be planted in the garden when average air and soil temperatures reach 60 degrees F. Selecting a Planting Site Choose a location that receives 6 to 10 hours of bright direct sunlight daily. Making sure the soil is well-draining is essential. Spacing, Depth, and Support Direct sow seeds about 1 inch deep and 3 to 4 inches apart. Plant seedlings 6 to 10 inches apart and at the same level as in their original pot. To grow butterfly pea plants in pots, choose a container 6 inches deep and 12 to 14 inches in diameter. Sow seeds 1 inch deep and 2 inches apart. Thin to one or two per container once they reach 6 inches tall. Provide a support structure such as a trellis or grow them on a fence or wall. Butterfly Pea Plant Care Light Butterfly pea plants need lots of bright, direct sunlight for 6 to 10 hours daily. Avoid locations where the overhead canopy or neighboring plants cast shade. Soil Tolerant of soil type, this twining vine grows best in fertile, slightly sandy, and well-draining soils. Plants require a balanced pH of 6.0 to 8.0. Water Butterfly pea seedlings benefit from 1 inch of water per week. Once established, they are drought tolerant and need supplemental irrigation only in prevailing hot, dry conditions. Soil level irrigation is best for avoiding fungal infections like powdery mildew that can develop on wet leaves. Temperature and Humidity This is a tropical plant that prefers moist air and temperatures between 70 and 100 degrees F. Hardy only in U.S. zones 9 through 11, the butterfly pea plant does not survive frost and is grown as an annual or potted plant where average temperatures fall below 60 degrees F. Indoor plants benefit from frequent misting to raise the humidity level. Fertilizer Add well-aged manure, compost, or balanced NPK fertilizer at when planting. NPK liquid fertilizer higher in phosphorous and potassium boosts bloom for perennial plants when applied twice annually after pruning. Pollination Butterfly pea plants are perfect which means they have both male and female parts and are considered self-pollinating. The flower, however, requires assistance from bees to complete pollination and fertilization for the plant to produce peas. Potted plants grown indoors year-round will not produce fruit unless hand pollinated. Variety vs. Variety Clitoria mariana, also called Butterfly Pea, is an uncommon wildflower found in the southern U.S. which tends to sprawl along the ground. The flower color is violet-blue to lavender with purple centers rather than yellow as in Clitoria ternatea. All parts of both plants are edible however Clitoria mariana is considered a forage plant and not widely consumed. Harvesting Butterfly Pea Butterfly pea plants are grown for their flowers rather than the edible peas. The flowers open for only a day or two but can be harvested fresh, wilted, or dried. The greatest amount of pigment is extracted from fresh flowers, resulting in richer color in food and beverages. Slightly wilted flowers should be left to dry completely and dried flowers produce the best color when combined with hot water.2 To harvest peas, remove flowers to activate the growth of the pod. Harvest pods before peas are too large which causes them to become tough and flavorless. To harvest seeds, wait until pods dry and turn brown. How to Grow Butterfly Pea in Pots Pea plants tend to grow easily in containers as long as the soil drains well and support is included. Seeds can be started in flats in early spring and transplanted or sown directly into individual pots at least 6 inches deep and 12 inches in diameter. Butterfly pea plants are heat and drought-tolerant so keeping pots outdoors in summer and overwintering indoors is a viable option. Plants grow in clay, ceramic, and plastic pots. Fill the container with potting soil. Butterfly pea plants are not picky about soil type but adding compost to make up 1/4 of the mix provides nutrition for young plants. Starting with your own or a purchased seedling, plant it in the center of the pot at the same level as in the original container. Fill in around the roots and add a trellis or stake. Water thoroughly until water drains from the pot bottom. Place in a location that receives at least 6 hours of bright sunlight daily. Move the plant outdoors into the full sun when temperatures average 65 degrees F. daily. Once the plant is established and growing, allow the soil surface to dry before watering. When average daily temperatures drop below 60 degrees F. move the plant indoors to a sunny window. Prune regularly and often by cutting back the tips of vines. Pruning can be done any time of year to avoid a thin, leggy appearance. Pruning Pruning is needed to keep plants compact and bushy. Prune your butterfly pea plant often by removing growing tips. Deadheading flowers increases flower production. If you want to save seeds for propagation or harvest edible peas for cooking, leave flowers on the vine. Harvest edible peas while still small or remove pods when they become brown and dry. Propagating Butterfly Pea Butterfly pea plant grows easily from cuttings taken from mature plants. Gather a snipper, a pot at least 6 inches deep and 12 inches wide, and potting soil. Take the cutting from an older, woodier portion of the vine. Pruned growing tips do not root well. Choose a section 3 to 5 inches long with a bud at the top. Remove lower leaves and place the cutting in a glass of water or dip the bottom in rooting hormone and plant in potting soil. Placed in water or soil, cutting produces roots in two to three weeks, followed quickly by flowers that open as early as three weeks once the plant is established. Keep soil moist and place potted seedlings in a warm, moist location. The morning sun is best with some afternoon shade to allow young plants to acclimate. How to Grow Butterfly Pea From Seed If you are growing butterfly pea plants in pots, allowing seed production is a good way to keep this plant going. Seeds can also be purchased at some greenhouses, online, and from specialty growers. To propagate from seed, you need a sharp knife, flats, or containers 6 inches deep and 12 inches wide, and potting medium. Butterfly pea seeds are not reliable germinators. Choose mature, aged seeds that are hard, and dark brown. To check for viability, pour seeds into a bowl of water. Discard seeds that don't float. Use the sharp knife to nick each seed to allow for better water absorption. Soak seeds in water for 24 hours. Fill the flat or pot with a light potting mix made up of 25 percent compost. Plant seeds 1 inch deep. In pots, space them 4 to 6 inches apart. Seeds sown in flats can be thinned or transplanted into pots or the garden once seedlings have three sets of leaves. Do not plant outdoors until average daily temperatures reach 60 degrees F. Keep seedlings moist. Germination is most successful in temperatures above 80 degrees F. Germination occurs from six days up to three weeks. Nicking and soaking seeds improve the time to germination. Vines grow rapidly, however average time for plants to flower is 90 days. Potting and Repotting Butterfly Pea Repotting annually is recommended to replenish soil nutrients. Plants are also potted up into containers 2 to 3 inches larger once they've doubled in size. Turn the plant's pot on its side, grasp the base of the plant, and gently work it loose from the pot. Add fresh potting material, choosing a larger pot when necessary. Replant and water. Overwintering Gardeners north of zone 9, need to bring potted plants indoors when average daily temperatures drop below 60 degrees F. Place the pot in a location that receives at least 6 hours of direct sunlight daily. Close to a south-facing window works well. Indoor temperatures need to stay consistently above 60 degrees F., so avoid drafty spots. Add a humidifier or mist the plant frequently to mimic moist, tropical conditions. Allow the soil surface to dry between waterings and continue to prune as needed. Common Pests and Plant Diseases Butterfly pea is not vulnerable to many diseases or pests. Spider mites and aphids can be a problem but can be knocked down with a strong spray of water. Treat infestations with horticultural oil. Overwatering can lead to bacterial soft rot, mold, and mildew.

Anticipation is likely one of the reasons it seems to take forever for your tomatoes to turn red. Dozens of varieties exist and tomatoes are fairly easy to grow, but it's the fresh, juicy taste and texture that make tomatoes the most popular crop grown in home gardens across the United States.1 Waiting for them to ripen to perfect red can seem endless, but besides anticipation there are several non emotion-based reasons for why your tomatoes are still green. Here are some of the most common reasons why your tomatoes aren't turning red, plus what you can do to speed up the ripening process. Temperature Too Hot or Too Cold Temperature is one of the bigger factors for ripening tomatoes and a few degrees too hot or too cold puts the process on hold or even stops ripening altogether. The ideal temperature tomatoes need to acquire their red color is 68 to 77 degrees F.2 At 85 degrees, the production of lycopene ceases leaving large green fruits on the vine until temperatures lower to more better levels. Temperatures consistently below 60 degrees F. also inhibit ripening. Fruits that are fully mature and have a slight blush can be harvested and brought indoors to finish ripening. They do not need to sit in a sunny window as long as the correct temperature is provided. Too Much Direct Sunlight Even though it might seem counterintuitive, too much sun exposure can slow down ripening. The heat is more important than light for ripening, and too much bright, hot, direct sunlight can raise temperatures to levels that inhibit lycopene production. Pruning leaves away from mature tomatoes to give them more sun exposure can also cause sunscald and cracking. Too Much Water Tomato plants need 1 to 2 inches of water per week when vines are actively growing and producing fruit. But once fruits reach their mature size, ripening occurs more quickly if irrigation is reduced or even stopped completely. Less water stresses the tomato plant and sends it into survival mode. The plant will focus energy into producing viable seed, which helps accelerate ripening. Insufficient Nutrients Tomatoes require a lot of nutrients and micronutrients throughout the growing season. Phosphorous and potassium are particularly important for the production and synthesis of lycopene in the fruits. Insufficient amounts can cause slow or uneven ripening. When the first small fruits appear on the plant, feed with a fertilizer higher in phosphorous such as and NPK 5-10-5. Too Much Nitrogen Tomato plants benefit from an application of balanced fertilizer such as an NPK 10-10-10 early in the season. This supports vine and foliage growth and encourages good root development and flower production. Once mature fruits are on the vine, fertilizing with a product that contains too much nitrogen can take away from ripening by refocusing energy on foliage growth. Once green fruits have reached a fully mature size, withhold fertilizer and allow the natural processes of ripening to take place in the fruit. Lack of Pruning Limiting the number of vines on a plant by removing early suckers is another way to focus energy into the production and ripening of fruit. Not every vine produces fruit and plants with unproductive vines or vines overloaded with fruit will struggle. This is especially true for determinate type tomato plants that produce many fruits all at the same time. Early pruning of your tomato plants results in higher quality fruit that ripens more easily and quickly. It's Not Supposed to Be Red It's important to understand, starting out, what your tomato type will look like when fully ripe. Many varieties ripen to different shades of red or may be orange, pink, purple and even striped. If you're waiting for your tomato to turn red, make sure that's the color it's supposed to be when it's ready to pick. Check your seed package for how many days to harvest for the tomato variety you've chosen. Some varieties need more or less growing time and may not work as well in your climate.

Tomato plants (Solanum lycopersicum) are beloved by gardeners, with over 10,000 possible types to grow.1 These leafy annuals grow juicy, flavorful fruits in shades of red, yellow, orange, purple, pink, brown, and green. Plant tomatoes in late spring or early summer once all danger of frost has passed. Depending on the variety, tomatoes can be ready to harvest anywhere from 42 to 110 days from germination. Here's a guide for how to grow tomato plants, including finding the best planting location, care requirements, and harvesting. How to Plant Tomatoes When to Plant Plant tomato seedlings outdoors after all danger of frost has passed and night temperatures are consistently above 50 degrees Fahrenheit. Store-bought and home-grown seedlings need to be hardened off before planting outdoors. When the weather is warm enough, begin hardening off the seedlings by bringing them outdoors in the shade for a few hours each day, gradually increasing how much light they receive and their time outdoors. Once night temperatures are consistently above 50 degrees, you can transplant tomato seedlings outdoors. Where to Plant Choose a well-drained planting site with loamy soil and eight hours of direct sunlight daily. Practice crop rotation: wait three years before planting tomatoes in a bed where you've grown other crops in the nightshade family (tomatoes, eggplants, potatoes, peppers, and tomatillos) to help keep plants disease-free. Water tomato plants well before planting. How to Plant Plant tomatoes 18 to 24 inches apart, three to four feet between rows, for proper airflow.2 Indeterminate varieties need more space than determinate varieties because they don't stop growing until frost kills the plant. Check seed packets and seedling tags for spacing guidelines for your plant varieties. To transplant tomato seedlings, dig a planting hole deep enough so the soil line is below the bottom-most healthy leaves. Planting deeply means digging the planting hole deep enough that 2/3 of the main stem is buried underground. Remove a few sets of the bottom leaves to create a longer stem. Only 1/3 of the plant should be visible above ground. The stem will develop roots from any part buried in the soil, which leads to extra-strong plants. A bigger root system means your plants can absorb more water and nutrients, resulting in a healthier plant that is less susceptible to drought, disease, and attack by tomato pests. How to Start Seeds Indoors Start tomatoes from seed indoors six to eight weeks before your region's first frost date. Fill seed trays with soilless seed starting mix and moisten the soil well. Plant tomato seeds a quarter-inch deep and cover them with soil. Put the trays in a warm place under a grow light. When the seedlings are two to three inches tall, pot them up into three-inch pots, burying them up to the lowest leaves. How to Grow Tomato Plants in Pots Because they grow only to a specific size, determinate tomatoes (sometimes called bush tomatoes) are ideal for container planting, although some indeterminate types are bred for pot planting. Use a high-quality soilless potting mix that's light and drains well while holding onto necessary moisture. Mix in organic compost before planting to add fertility. Use 14- to 20-inch pots with ample drainage holes; the larger, the better. Tomatoes planted in containers generally benefit from cages or other supports. Keep them well-watered because container plants dry out more quickly in hot weather than in-ground plants. Tomato Plant Care Light Tomatoes require eight hours or more of direct sunlight daily to grow, flower, and fruit. In warmer regions like the southern United States, tomatoes might benefit from afternoon shade during the hottest times. Soil Plant tomatoes in a site with rich, well-drained soil. Choose a spot with soil that is slightly acidic loam or sandy loam. Work organic matter into the soil in the autumn or a few weeks before you plan to plant. Water Water tomato plants regularly to ensure they receive at least one inch per week. Consistent watering will help produce the best-quality fruit. Apply water directly to the soil at the plant's root zone rather than sprinkling water overhead and wetting the foliage. Keeping the foliage dry will reduce the chance of fungal diseases. Mulching with organic material like hay, straw, or grass clippings not treated with pesticides can help retain soil moisture.3 Temperature and Humidity Tomatoes can grow well at various humidity levels but need warm temperatures to survive and thrive. Temperatures below 50 degrees Fahrenheit can stunt growth and damage the plant's ability to produce flowers and fruit. Daytime temperatures above 85 degrees can cause blossom drop4, but you can help plants withstand the heat by mulching the soil around plants and keeping them well watered. Fertilizer Tomato plants require nutrient-rich soil to grow and produce healthy fruit. To ensure your tomato plants receive the nutrients they need, a soil test can help you determine the soil contents, lacking nutrients, and the type of fertilizer your soil needs for good tomato growth. If the soil is rich and fertile or has enough organic matter or compost before planting, you might not need to apply additional fertilizer throughout the growing season.3 However, tomato plants usually benefit from fertilizer application at several different points in their growth cycle. To encourage more flowering and fruiting rather than foliage growth, choose a fertilizer that's higher in phosphorous and lower in nitrogen.5 Pollination Tomatoes are self-fertile, meaning you don't need more than one plant for pollination. Movement from the wind is usually adequate to ensure pollination. However, adding a few summer-blooming annuals to the vegetable beds is ideal to attract pollinators such as bees and other insects. In high tunnels or greenhouses, growers use strategies like tapping tomato cages or stakes to help move pollen from the male to the female parts of the flower.6 However, a few different issues can cause pollination issues. High daytime temperatures (over 90 degrees F) and low night temperatures (under 50 degrees F) can inhibit pollination and cause blooms to drop before they can set fruit. Insufficient water can also cause issues with flowering and pollination, and so can applying fertilizer that is too high in nitrogen, which causes plants to put energy toward foliage growth instead of flowering and fruiting.7 Types of Tomato Plants Tomatoes are treasured for their taste and nutritional benefits, which include phytochemicals and nutrients like lycopene, potassium, iron, folate, vitamin C, and other antioxidants.8 There are thousands of tomato varieties, including lower classifications, from heirlooms to hybrids.1 Tomato plant growth habits are also divided into two main categories: determinate and indeterminate. Determinate Tomato Plants Determinate tomatoes mature relatively early, growing to a mature size of three to four feet tall. All fruit on the plant ripens within roughly two weeks, and then plants die back. Because determinate tomato plants are usually compact, they're great for container growing and don't require heavy staking as indeterminate tomatoes do. Determinate tomatoes are often used for sauce and canning. Other determinate types are: Roma: This plum tomato produces heavy yields of medium, rich red, meaty fruit. Celebrity (Solanum lycopersicum 'Celebrity'): Determinate celebrity tomatoes are disease-resistant and prolific, with the added bonus that they fruit from when plants reach their mature size until frost. But unlike indeterminate tomatoes, they don't keep growing larger as the season progresses. Rutgers: This heirloom variety, in production since 1934, produces bright red fruit with heavy walls and great disease resistance. It ripens evenly, inside and out, making it an easy-care cultivar that is equally delicious, fresh, cooked, or preserved. Marglobe: This variety is adaptable to various soils and produces thick-walled fruit. It is very good to eat fresh or canned. Indeterminate Tomato Plants Indeterminate tomatoes include most cherry tomato varieties, heirloom tomatoes, and beefsteak tomatoes. Instead of growth stopping once fruit sets, indeterminate tomatoes will keep growing and fruiting until the first fall frost kills the plant. Because they keep growing, they require sturdy staking and regular pruning. They're also better suited to in-ground planting. Here are a few popular varieties: Better Boy (Solanum lycopersicum 'Better Boy'): This popular indeterminate slicing tomato offers disease resistance, relatively early harvest, and sizeable one-pound fruits. Yellow Pear (Solanum lycopersicum 'Yellow Pear'): Known for its clusters of sweet, pear-shaped yellow tomatoes, this indeterminate variety dates back to the early 19th century. Green Zebra (Solanum lycopersicum' Green Zebra'): A cross between four different heirloom tomatoes, this indeterminate "heirloom hybrid" is prized for its bright flavor and chartreuse color. Pink Brandywine (Solanum lycopersicum 'Brandywine'): This indeterminate, easy-to-grow heirloom offers hefty, flavorful fruits in a beautiful blush shade. Varieties of Tomatoes: Early Season, Mid-Season, and Late-Season Another factor to consider when choosing tomato varieties is how long it takes for fruits to mature and be ready to harvest. Early-season varieties will grow ripe, ready-to-harvest fruit in 42 to 70 days. Mid-season tomatoes mature in around 70 to 80 days, while late-season varieties take 80 to 110 days to mature. Pruning Pruning tomatoes can offer several benefits, such as earlier harvests, disease resistance, and larger fruits. It's recommended to pinch or prune away the suckers—shoots that grow out of the axils where leaves meet stems—in indeterminate tomato varieties. This allows plants to direct energy towards fruiting rather than excess leaf growth and keeps plants tidier and generally easier to maintain. While determinate varieties are not always pruned, plants can develop stronger stems if you remove suckers that grow below the lowest flower.5 Harvesting Tomatoes Harvest tomatoes when fruits have fully colored, with a firm yet supple texture and healthy size for their variety. Ripe tomatoes will have smooth, shiny skin. Use scissors or pruners to cut stems when harvesting because pulling fruits off the vine can damage the plant. When a frost is forecast, remove all fruit from in-ground plants. Propagating Tomato Plants You can use the suckers you remove from your plants to propagate new plants.9 Desuckering and Rooting Tomatoes. Clemson Cooperative Extension. Here's how: Pinch or prune off a good-sized sucker from a mature tomato plant. Remove the leaves on the lower half of the sucker stem. Poke a hole in the soil nearby, leaving adequate space between plantings. Plant the sucker in the hole. Roots will grow along the portion of the sucker's stem that is below the soil line. When you see new growth, you'll know the sucker has rooted. You can leave it in place or dig it up and relocate it to another area of your garden. Care for the plant as you would any tomato plant. Common Pests and Plant Diseases Tomatoes can fall prey to diseases and garden pests. Plant disease-resistant varieties and prevent issues with crop rotation, applying water to the soil and root zone rather than wetting the foliage with overhead watering, cutting away lower branches that might come into contact with soil, pruning suckers, and giving plants adequate space to enable airflow. Tomato diseases can be fatal if you don't identify, treat, and try to prevent them from occurring. Treat insects like aphids by spraying them off with water or treating plants with neem or horticultural oil. Some pests, like tomato hornworms, must be picked off by hand.

If you love a low-acid, sweet tomato, then Sungold is a perfect choice. A golden yellow cherry tomato, Sungold, Lycopersicon esculentum 'Sungold', is a hybrid indeterminate tomato that matures in 55 to 65 days and produces fruit in clusters throughout the growing season. You'll need stakes or cages because the vines can grow up to 10 feet.1 While the fruit is delicious, the vines and leaves are toxic to humans2 and pets3 if consumed. How to Plant Sungold Tomatoes When to Plant Sungold tomatoes should be planted in the spring after all threat of frost has passed. If you are starting plants from seed, they should be started indoors about four weeks before your area's last projected frost date and then planted outside when seedlings are at least 6-inches tall. Selecting a Planting Site Sungold tomatoes require a site with full sun and loamy, nutrient-rich soil with good drainage. If planting in a garden, practice crop rotation to prevent disease spread and nutrient depletion of the soil from last year's crops. Sungold tomatoes also thrive in containers placed in a sunny spot. Spacing, Depth, and Support Sungold tomatoes produce long vines and clusters of fruit. To control them and keep the fruit off the ground. they need a support structure for the vines, such as a tomato cage. Plants should be spaced at least four feet apart in the garden to ensure good air circulation and room for the support structure. Seedlings should be planted in a hole about twice the size of their root ball and placed into the ground at the same level as they grew in their container. If the seedling was grown in a peat pot, be sure the entire pot is buried below the soil surface because an exposed peat pot wicks moisture from the soil. Sungold Tomato Plant Care Light Sungold tomatoes need full sun for six to eight hours per day. Less light results in slower growth and less fruit. Soil Slightly acidic, 6.0-6.8 pH, soil in the garden helps Sungold tomatoes thrive and bear lots of fruit. The soil should be well-drained, loamy, and nutrient-rich. A soil test is the best way to determine the nutrient level in your soil and its pH. If growing Sungold tomatoes in containers, use organic potting soil not soil dug directly from the garden. It is too heavy for container grown plants. Water All tomatoes must be watered deeply and regularly, especially those planted in containers. Provide 1 to 1 1/2 inches of water per week. Poke your finger into the soil and if it is dry at 2 inches deep, provide water. The soil should not be allowed to dry out because keeping the soil evenly moist helps prevent blossom end rot. Water at the root level to prevent the spread of tomato diseases. Avoid overwatering which can lead to root rot and splitting tomatoes. Add mulch once plants are established to help retain moisture. Temperature and Humidity For optimum growth, do not plant Sungold tomatoes until soil temperature has reached at least 60 degrees Fahrenheit. Harden off seedlings by gradually exposing them to outdoor conditions before planting them in the garden. Humidity isn't an issue for tomatoes unless it is excessive. Too much humid weather causes wet foliage for extended periods and creates a climate for fungal diseases. Fertilizer Unless a soil test has other recommendations, prepare garden soil by working in 2 to 3 pounds per 100 square feet of a complete fertilizer (10-10-10 NPK). A high-nitrogen fertilizer is not recommended; it can result in luxuriant foliage but delayed flowering and fruiting. Give new plants a head start by using a diluted liquid starter fertilizer high in phosphorus for strong root development. For container-grown Sungolds, fertilize regularly, at least once a month. Use a water-soluble application at half-strength to provide a constant source of nutrients. Pollination Sungold tomatoes self-pollinate and attract bees and other pollinators to the garden. Types of Sungold Tomatoes A similar tomato is SunSugar. The fruits are golden yellow, sweeter, and with a slightly thicker skin t less prone to cracking. Harvesting Sungold Tomatoes Although Sungold tomatoes grow in clusters of 10 to 20 fruits, it is best to harvest each cherry tomato separately. If picked while they are bright yellow, the fruit will be firm and tart. If allowed to ripen to a deep golden color, they will be soft, sweet, and easy to remove from the vine. Sungolds never turn red, no matter how long they stay on the vine. If cared for correctly, the plant will continue to produce fruit until the first frost in the fall. How to Grow Sungold Tomatoes in Pots If you don't have space for a garden, Sungold tomatoes can be easily grown in pots. Choose a large pot, around 5-gallons, with good drainage holes. Add a treellis or tomato cage while the seedlings are young to provide support for the vines. Use good potting soil and water regularly (one to two gallons of water per day) because the container will dry out quickly. Other than transferring seedlings to the garden or a large container, Sungold tomatoes should not be repotted once they are established. Pruning Sungold Tomatoes Regular pruning helps Sungold tomatoes produce more fruit than foliage. Use garden snips to remove suckers, or small stems, growing from the main stem next to a leaf cluster. These suckers tend to produce foliage but not fruit. Without them, the plant can focus energy on the fruit-bearing stems. Prune any stems touching the ground to prevent disease. Propagating Sungold Tomatoes You can clone Sungold tomatoes from cuttings. You need a small pot with soilless potting mix and good drainage and sterile pruners. Once the parent plant is healthy and actively growing follow these steps: Find a 6- to 8-inch sucker coming off the main stem with no buds or flowers on it and remove it with the pruner. Strip the leaves on the lower half of the cutting. Plant the cutting in a small container with moistened soilless potting mix. Place the container in bright, indirect sunlight. Keep the growing medium moist but not soggy. Roots should develop in a week or two. If you feel resistance when you gently tug on the cutting, you’ll know it has roots. It can then be transplanted into the garden. How to Grow Sungold Tomatoes from Seed About six weeks before the last predicted frost, start your Sungold tomato seeds indoors. You need seed starting trays and mix, heating mat, plastic dome or covering, and small pots with drainage holes. Fill trays with seed starting medium and moisten the medium until it is damp but not soaked. With a pointed stick, make a hole about 1/8th of an inch deep and place one seed in each one of the seed tray's cells. Place the tray on top of the heating mat in front of a sunny window and cover the tray. Check daily to ensure the soil remains moist, misting with a spray bottle as needed. The seeds should germinate in 5 to 10 days. Keep covered until the plants touch the cover, at which point remove the cover. When plants are around 5 to 6 inches tall, transplant them into individual pots and continue to water until transplanted. When outdoor temperatures reach a steady 50° Fahrenheit at night, you can take the plants outdoors to allow them to harden up before planting. After 10 days, you can transplant the Sungold tomato plants into the garden. Overwintering Sungold tomatoes are annuals that complete their life cycle in one growing season and do not overwinter. Harvest the last tomatoes before the first frost and discard vines. Common Pest and Plant Diseases Sungold tomatoes are resistant to Verticillium wilt (V), fusarium (F), and tobacco mosaic virus (TMV). However, they can be affected and are subject to pests like tomato hornworms. Help prevent problems by providing ample growing space, using a support structure to keep them off the ground, and watering at the roots only. Aphids are a common problem with tomatoes. While the plants can tolerate a number of them without loss, infestations can pose a larger problem. Aphids are tiny bugs that come in colors red, green, white, or black. Signs of an aphid infestation include curled and yellow leaves as well as reduced tomato production. You can control aphids with natural methods such as spraying with water and companion planting (marigolds, onion, and garlic as good choices). If these don't work, you can also opt to use insecticidal sprays.

Fertilizing strawberries is different from many other edible crops. That's because managing nutrients correctly depends on whether they are June-bearing or day-neutral.Feeding plants for even, balanced growth is key to harvesting a good crop and keeping your patch producing for more than one year. Here’s what you need to know about fertilizing strawberries for healthy growth and maximum crop size. Before You Fertilize Always plant strawberries in rich, nutrient-dense soil first and foremost. Maintaining the right pH is essential for the fertilization process to benefit your strawberry crop. Test pH before adding fertilizer for a slightly acidic level of 5.3 to 6.5. Too much nitrogen can raise acidity and inhibit root growth resulting in poor flower and fruit development. Not enough nitrogen can cause stunting and crop failure. When to Fertilize Strawberries For both day-neutral and June-bearing strawberries, fertilizing begins before planting. These berries use lots of nitrogen to produce runners and set fruit, so it's important to start out with slightly acidic, rich, well-draining soil. Work in compost, well-rotted manure, or peat and add a balanced, slow-release NPK fertilizer into the top 6 inches two weeks before planting. To fertilize potted strawberry plants, use a combination of quality potting mix, compost, and granular fertilizer. The goal of fertilizing is to maintain pH level while supplying enough nitrogen for roots and foliage but not at the expense of flowers and fruit. A slow-release NPK 10-10-10 or 20-20-20 is the best choice starting out. Plenty of organic alternatives are available including blood meal, which contains a good percentage of nitrogen. When to Fertilize June Bearing Strawberries Fertilize June-bearing strawberries in mid to late summer. Strawberry seedlings are planted in spring but berries grow from buds formed the previous autumn. In the first planting year, June-bearing types need the entire summer season to establish roots strong enough to support a crop. All flowers are removed and plants are fertilized once in August. In subsequent years, beds are renovated following harvest. (Renovating a strawberry bed means thinning existing plants and allowing the runners to become new plants. If you don't renovate at least every other year, the roots choke each other out.) Feed plants in mid to late July, after renovating, to encourage healthy bud production in autumn. When to Fertilize Day-Neutral Strawberries In the first year of growing, day-neutral strawberries fertilize when fruits appear after the second flush of flowers. First flowers are removed so add the first feeding in mid-summer. Use a balanced 10-10-10, or, if plants appear weak, an organic application of bloodmeal should boost growth. If flowering is spotty, bonemeal supports root growth and encourages flowering. Organic products can be applied every six weeks but should be discontinued at the end of the growing season. In subsequent years, fertilize day-neutral strawberries in early spring as soon as new leaves appear. Use a balanced NPK 10-10-10 or 20-20-20. Apply a second feeding when fruit starts to develop. Foliar sprays and compost tea can be added as often as every two weeks to boost fruit production. When to Fertilize Strawberries Grown in Pots Fertilize strawberries grown in pots when leaves first appear in spring and again when berries start to form. Feed the plants every two weeks with compost tea or a foliar spray for continued flower and fruit production during active growth. If you plan to overwinter your pot for a second season, don’t fertilize during winter months. How to Fertilize Strawberries Strawberries are short-lived perennial plants that grow from shallow-rooted crowns. They mature rapidly and produce runners that terminate in new crowns. Beds are planted using a matted row or hill method, though strawberries are commonly grown in containers. The best way to fertilize strawberries depends on the method of planting. Matted Row Method Matted rows are fertilized to encourage runners and support the root growth of new immature plants. Water the planting bed first, then use a watering can or hose with a fertilizer attachment to evenly distribute a water-based fertilizer. Apply the mixture as close to ground level as possible and feed plants early in the day to allow wet foliage to dry before nightfall. June-bearing plants are usually grown in matted rows. Hill Method The hill method treats strawberry plants as short-lived perennials by removing runners and concentrating growth in the initial plant which grows fairly large and produces larger berries. It is used more often with day-neutral and everbearing varieties. Hilled strawberry plants are fertilized to support the continued health of the initial planting. Water-based, granular, or powdered fertilizers can be used since plants are spaced to allow side dressing worked in with a hoe or tiller. Water the bed well following application. Container Method Choose day-neutral strawberries to grow in containers. Berries grown in pots are treated as short-lived perennials and may produce for several seasons, but plants are often replaced every year. Strawberries grown in pots need to be fertilized every two weeks. Use a water-based product and water the pot first. Compost tea and foliar sprays are good choices. Water and fertilize at soil level early in the day to allow any wet foliage to dry before nightfall.

Potatoes can be demanding plants in vegetable beds, but they thrive in container gardens where pests are less likely to trouble developing tubers. Keeping potatoes in grow bags is one way to expand your growing space and fit more food crops in a small garden—however, potatoes can also be cultivated in upcycled plastic buckets for free. Here’s how to grow potatoes in a bucket for space savings, pest-free tubers, and other benefits. Instructions How to Grow Potatoes in Buckets Prep Your Potatoes Potatoes can be planted whole, but most growers cut potatoes into sections to help seed potatoes stretch a bit further in the garden. If you’re cutting seed potatoes, ensure each potato section has at least 2 eyes or nodes for sprouting. Allow cut potatoes to dry for a day or two before planting. Choose the Right Buckets Never use buckets that previously housed chemicals, paint, or other unsavory or unknown materials near edible plants. Instead, use buckets made of food-safe plastic and clean them out thoroughly before planting. Standard 5-gallon buckets can hold about 2 potato plants, while 10-gallon buckets can hold 4 potato plants. Drill Drainage Holes Potatoes need well-draining soil to grow properly—they can rot in soggy soil. To avoid this, flip your planting buckets over and drill holes across the base of each bucket using a drill and an ¾ inch drill bit. Add Soil Garden soil is too dense for container gardens and can cause drainage issues in potato buckets. A soil mix intended for raised bed gardens is a better option for growing containers, or you can make your own DIY mix by blending 1 part compost with 1 part potting soil. Fill the planting buckets most of the way up with the substrate of your choice, but leave a few inches of empty space at the top of each bucket so you can hill your potatoes later on. Plant Seed Potatoes To plant, space potatoes about 5 inches apart and 3 inches away from the sides of your planting bucket. Cover the potatoes with 2 inches of soil, move the buckets into a sunny spot that receives at least 6 hours of light daily, and water deeply. Water Well Potatoes should be watered regularly when the top 1 to 2 inches of soil feels dry. Adding straw mulch over the soil can keep buckets from drying out too quickly. Watch for Pests Pests are less common in container gardens, but they can still crop up from time to time. Wilted, discolored, or holey leaves can all be signs of pest activity. If you see these symptoms, check your plants over carefully and handpick larger pests, like Colorado potato beetles, into a bucket of soapy water. Fertilize as Needed Potatoes are heavy feeders that need to be fertilized regularly with a balanced, all-purpose fertilizer. Applying diluted, liquid organic fertilizer twice a month works well for container-grown potatoes, or you can use a slow release, granular fertilizer, and compost. Hill Growing Spuds Hilling potatoes, or mounding the tops with soil, keeps spuds from turning green and encourages plants to produce more tubers. Begin hilling potatoes when plants are 6 inches tall by covering up the bottom 1/3 of each plant with soil. Repeat this process every few weeks until your potatoes are ready to harvest. Harvest Most potatoes are harvested about 60 to 120 days after planting or when the plants flower and their leaves start to brown. To harvest, lift individual potatoes from the soil with your fingers, or dump out the bucket on a tarp for even easier harvesting. Our Best Tips to Grow Great Potatoes Keep pests at bay by growing companion plants like nasturtiums, sweet alyssum, and alliums near potatoes. Straw mulch limits weeds reduces plant watering needs, and shelters potatoes from too much light. Testing soil before planting can let you know if your soil pH is ideal for potatoes. If needed, soil pH can be adjusted naturally with elemental sulfur. Always use fresh soil in container gardens and purchase potatoes from reliable suppliers to avoid wireworms. Don’t plant grocery store potatoes. They can harbor wireworms and other pests. After harvesting, cure potatoes for 2 weeks in a cool, dry place to keep them fresh. Early-season potatoes are planted 2 weeks before the last frost of spring and harvested in early summer. Mid-season potatoes are planted in early summer and harvested about 100 days later. Late-season potatoes are planted in late summer and harvested in autumn.

Radishes (Raphanus sativus) are notorious for their fast production, growing from seed to harvest in as little as 21 to 30 days. While red, round radishes are the most commonly conjured, radishes come in all sorts of shapes, sizes, and colors. Depending on the variety, they can be spherical or oblong like a carrot, and might be red, green, white, pink, purple, or yellow. If you're a beginner gardener, this quick-growing root vegetable is a perfect place to start your growing journey. For a successful harvest, follow these tips for how to grow and harvest radishes. How to Grow Radishes Radishes grow best when directly sown in cooler conditions, and can be grown in spring and fall. You can plant radish seeds as soon as the soil can be worked. Allow about one inch between seeds in the row. Many radish varieties mature very quickly; to ensure you have an ongoing supply of radishes and don't just harvest them all at once, sow seeds weekly (a gardening technique known as succession planting). Once spring temperatures reach 65 degrees, stop planting radish seeds, as heat will cause them to bolt, which means the plant is going to seed. If your radishes don't form roots, that could be a sign that there is excessive nitrogen in the soil—do a soil test to confirm. A rapid onset of hot weather or overcrowded garden beds could also be the cause. Make sure your radishes have ample room to grow and mature fully How to Know When a Radish Is Ready to Be Harvested It can be challenging to know when it's the right time to harvest root vegetables like radishes. After all, they grow underground and aren't as easy to observe as cucumbers or tomatoes. However, there are a few signs to look for to be sure your radishes are ready to be harvested. You're within the window of time in which that radish variety reaches maturity. (Different varieties have different growing times, so be sure to check the seed packet to confirm.) The above-ground radish greens are four to six inches tall. In general, the roots should be about around one inch in diameter, which you should be able to tell by the shoulders of the radish emerging above the soil. How to Harvest Radishes Once you're certain that your radishes have reached maturity, you'll want to harvest them. Don't wait too long; you want to pick them at the right time for peak flavor and texture. If they stay in the ground too long, they will get fibrous and develop a strong, unpleasant taste. Using your finger or a small garden trowel, scrape away the soil above the radish root. If it is one inch in diameter, it's ready to be harvested. Grab the radish at the base of its greens and pull straight up. You may need to gently wiggle it to loosen it from the soil, but it should emerge easily. Separate the root from the greens. If left attached, the leaves will draw out moisture and nutrients from the radish bulb. Wash each radish under cool, running water and rinse the radish greens, if keeping. Store radishes in an airtight, resealable container in the refrigerator's vegetable crisper drawer for one to two weeks.