gardening

A member of the beet family, Swiss chard (Beta vulgaris) is one of the easiest leafy greens to grow because it will thrive in just about any soil type and all but the most extreme temperatures. The leaves and colorful stems are edible and can be eaten raw, steamed, or stir-fried. Learn how to grow Swiss chard in your garden. How to Plant Swiss Chard Swiss chard is a fast-growing vegetable that is ready to harvest in around 40 days. Seeds can be directly sown into the garden about 1/2 inch deep and two inches apart in early spring or late summer. If you start seedlings indoors, plant them after the predicted last frost about four inches apart, taking care to minimize root disturbance. The best planting site for Swiss chard receives full sun and has nutrient-rich, well-draining soil with plenty of organic matter. Swiss Chard Care Light Swiss chard needs full sun to partial shade with 6-8 hours of full sun producing the largest, healthiest plants. If you live in a hot climate, some shade from the strong afternoon sun is beneficial to prevent leaf wilt. Soil For the largest and healthiest plants, Swiss chard prefers soil with a high organic content, a neutral pH (6.0-8.0), and good drainage but still moist. Water Like most leafy greens, Swiss chard needs a consistent amount of water to stay healthy—about one to two inches of water per week depending on your climate and rainfall. Mulching around your plants and between the rows can help retain moisture. Temperature and Humidity The plants grow fastest in the cool temperatures of spring and fall, although they continue to produce leaves throughout the summer. Swiss chard is a sturdy plant that can tolerate some heat, humidity, and drought, but will not flourish without adequate moisture. Fertilizer If the garden soil is not nutrient-rich, apply a complete garden fertilizer such as 10-10-10 mixing it into the top three inches of soil before planting. Pollination Swiss chard produces tiny flowers that use wind and insects as pollinators. Pollination is not a concern since this is an annual crop. How to Grow Swiss Chard From Seed Swiss chard can be direct sown in the garden or started indoors and transplanted into the garden. You can sow directly in the garden when the soil temperature is at least 45°F. Start plants indoors in a seed-starting mix about two to three weeks before your last expected frost date. The seeds will germinate in five to seven days. Fill a seeding tray with seed staring mix. Sprinkle the seeds over the moistened mix and cover seeds with about 1/2 inch of soil. Keep the tray moist and in bright, indirect light. Transplant your seedlings from indoors after the danger of frost has passed. How to Grow Swiss Chard in Pots A Swiss chard plant will grow well in a container that holds at least two quarts of soil and is at least eight inches deep. Be sure the pot has good drainage holes and fill it with potting soil. Add your Swiss chard seedling and water deeply. Place the container where it will receive at least six hours of direct sunlight daily. Water often to keep the soil moist. Swiss Chard Varieties 'Bright Lights': A mixed variety, these stems are red, white, orange, pink, violet, and yellow mixed. It matures in 40 days. 'Northern Lights': Brightly colored stalks and midribs in shades of red, pink, yellow, and white. Matures in 42 days. 'Ruby': Ruby-red stems, reddish-green leaves, red veins that mature in 45 days. 'Lucullus": Just 40 days to maturity with dark green leaves and white stalks. Harvesting Swiss Chard The tastiest Swiss chard leaves are young and tender. You can start harvesting at any time for smaller leaves that can be eaten raw in salads. Or, wait until the leaves are around 12 inches long with a sturdier stem for cooking. Remove the largest outer leaves first with a sharp knife or garden shears. Continue harvesting single leaves to encourage new leaves to grow. You can eat both the leaves and the stems. Mature leaves are chopped and cooked in sautés, soups, or stews. Stop harvesting when the plant bolts and goes to flower. The leaves will then be tough and bitter. If you can't eat or share all of the leaves, just add them to your compost pile. Pruning Swiss chard does not require pruning other than removing mature outer leaves to encourage new growth. If a plant is overrun with insects, you may wish to cut it down to the soil line to help get rid of the pests. If the plant roots are healthy, Swiss chard will regrow after cutting. Propagating Swiss chard is commonly started from seeds or nursery seedlings, but it can be propagated from cuttings. Cuttings should be taken from the oldest leaves. Use gardening shears to cut a mature stem from the bottom of the plant. Do not propagate from the plant's center. Trim the bottom of the stem at a 45º angle leaving it 4 to 6 inches long. Dip the cut end in rooting hormone and insert it into a small container with drainage holes filled with moist soilless potting mix. Keep the potting mix moist. Roots should develop in a few weeks. If you gently tug on the stem and feel resistance, the Swiss chard is ready to transplant. Overwintering Swiss chard is cold-tolerant and will continue to grow in the garden through frosts until temperatures drop to the mid-20s Fahrenheit. At that point, since the vegetable is an annual it is best to allow the plants to die and plant again in the spring. Common Pests & Plant Diseases Swiss chard leaves can be affected by Cercospora leaf spot, causing older infected leaves to yellow and die. This fungal disease usually occurs when conditions are warm and humid. To help prevent the spread, you can use a fungicide or remove infected leaves and pull up and discard badly infected plants. Use dense organic mulch around plants and water only at the base of plants, not overhead. Leafminers will feed on the surface of Swiss chard leaves. They are considered minor pests, but heavy infestations can reduce leaf quality and yield. Remove infested leaves and plants to destroy them as a primary control. Root-knot nematodes are small colorless roundworms that infect plant roots. While there is no chemical treatment, if a plant is wilting, pull it up and inspect the roots. If they look "knotty" discard the plant. Rotate Swiss chard to another area of the garden next year and incorporate compost to help suppress root-knot nematode populations.

Autumn is the best time for planting garlic. But if you missed your fall planting window, you can still plant garlic in spring and harvest an impressive crop of garlic by the end of its growing season. Whether you want to grow hardneck garlic, softneck garlic, or garlic scapes, this guide will teach you how to cold treat spring garlic to get more cloves and introduce you to the best types of garlic for spring plantings. Can You Plant Garlic in Spring? Yes, you can definitely plant garlic in the spring. Although most growers plant garlic in fall, you can plant it in spring as long as you chill or “cold treat” seed garlic before planting. Like daffodils and tulips, garlic needs a period of cold exposure to grow; garlic bulbs won’t produce multiple cloves without it. Garlic that’s planted outdoors in autumn is naturally exposed to the cold during winter. But spring plantings of garlic need to be intentionally chilled or they’ll produce one large garlic clove instead of a full head of cloves. How to Cold Treat Garlic There are two main ways to cold treat garlic before spring planting, and the method you choose will depend on where you live and your climate. Plant garlic as early as possible. If you live in an area where the ground thaws in early spring, you can cold treat garlic by planting it outdoors as soon as the soil is workable. If your soil doesn’t thaw until late spring, plant garlic in weather-proof pots instead, and put those cold-hardy cloves outside while it’s still cold. Chill garlic indoors. Alternatively, you can chill garlic inside by placing seed garlic in perforated bags and chilling them in your fridge for a few weeks before planting. During this process, regularly check the cloves for mold and sprouting and immediately plant any cloves that start to grow. When to Plant Garlic in the Spring Hardneck garlic needs to be chilled for 4 to 8 weeks before planting, while softneck garlic only needs about 3 to 4 weeks of cold treatment. This means that you’ll usually need to start chilling garlic by late winter to early spring and plant garlic outside when the soil is workable. Remember, garlic is cold hardy and you don’t need to worry about it freezing. Types of Garlic Both hardneck and softneck garlic are appropriate for spring or fall plantings. However, there are a few types of garlic that are particularly popular in spring. ‘Early Italian’ softneck garlic is known for its long storage life. It produces up to 15 cloves per bulb and is ideal for braiding. ‘Elephant’ garlic is actually more closely related to leeks than garlic, but its jumbo cloves have a mild, garlic-like taste and excellent crunch. ‘Chesnok Red’ hardneck garlic yields big cloves with purple striping and tasty scapes perfect for pesto. How to Plant Garlic Spring garlic can be planted in in-ground gardens, raised beds, or pots that are at least 6 to 8 inches deep. Just make sure your garlic is planted in a location that receives at least 6 to 8 hours of sun per day and follow these planting tips. Prepare soil. Before planting, amend your soil with compost and organic granular fertilizer. In containers, use 3 parts potting soil mixed with 1 part compost. Separate cloves and plant. Divide garlic cloves carefully, leaving the papery skins on, and plant them pointed ends up about 1 to 2 inches deep. Cloves should be spaced about 4 inches apart to get large bulbs or 2 inches apart for smaller, green garlic. Water well. After planting, water well and add 2 to 3 inches of lightweight mulch to keep weeds down. Continue watering when the top inch of soil feels dry and fertilize every 2 to 3 weeks with an organic fertilizer from the time the garlic cloves sprout until a few weeks before harvest. How to Harvest Garlic Whether you plant garlic in spring or fall, garlic bulbs should be ready to harvest around mid- to late summer, or when the garlic leaves have mostly turned brown. However, you can harvest “green garlic” when the plants are about the size of scallions or harvest garlic scapes when they start to curl. When harvesting, follow these best practices: Stop watering garlic plants several days before harvest and harvest bulbs in dry weather if possible. Use a shovel or gardening fork to gently lift the bulbs from the soil and shake away excess dirt. Cure the bulbs in a warm, dry spot with good airflow for 2 to 4 weeks until the skins are papery. Cut the leaves off hardneck garlic or twist softneck garlic leaves into braids and store your harvest in a warm, dry spot.

Growing vegetables can be done very simply with minimal effort, or very elaborately with advance planning and many tasks involved. However you want to approach it, growing your own produce is eminently satisfying, providing fresh food you can harvest directly to your table. Home growing can also save money, especially if you grow from seed. There are many approaches to growing vegetables outside, and a range of methods suitable to different conditions including sunlight exposure, soil, budget, and available space. Consider the amount of time, money, and effort you want to expend. Whether you have acres of land, a tiny balcony, or something in between, we've gathered the best vegetable garden ideas for you to gain inspiration from. Let Vining Plants Climb Growing vining plants in the vegetable garden is a great way to create a dynamic design by incorporating vertical supports. You can use either existing structures (like fences) or create your own (using bamboo stakes or trellises). This can be done with many kinds of plants including beans, peas, cucumbers, summer squash, zucchini, and miniature melons. Lay Gravel Paths Around Raised Beds If you have permanent raised bed structures, creating an easy-maintenance walkway around them makes work easier and also keeps the garden area looking neat. You can use mulch, but this needs replenishing each year and can get muddy when watering. Gravel is a great choice for a clean-looking path with excellent drainage. Gather Eclectic Containers There's no need to build angular beds, dig parallel rows, or buy a dozen matching containers to plant your vegetable garden. As long as you have containers with good drainage that are the appropriate size for what you're growing, they can be any shape or arrangement you want. You can use old furniture or repurpose old tools like wheelbarrows for a creative assortment of planters. Curate a Cute Balcony Garden A balcony space can be made into a vegetable garden depending on how much room you have. Arrange containers around your seating area to create privacy and add some flower plantings for color and fragrance. Use principles of vertical garden design to make the most of your available space. Arrange Rows by Height to Create Shade To make the most of available sunlight, and create some late afternoon shade for tender greens, plant your rows of vegetables strategically. Let your taller sun-loving veggies like tomatoes and corn get plenty of sun. Arrange stakes for beans and other vining plants to create semi-shady spots for lettuces, kale, and herbs. Before planning your design, spend some time observing how the light falls across your garden space during the growing season. Try Low, Curved Fencing Creating low fences for vegetable beds not only helps contain weeds, but it also makes for an attractive design and makes it easy to lay down mulch or straw for paths. Many kinds of materials can work for this, but flexible willow fencing has a great rustic look and is long-lasting. If you have woodland areas on your property, you can also use young tree saplings or fallen limbs to create your own fencing. Create a Simple Square Foot Garden Square foot gardening is a method designed by an urban planner for organizing your planting in a square raised bed. This method is easy to implement and helps you make very efficient use of space. It's a great approach to gardening in a small yard or on a balcony, but also a good way to create a streamlined design for larger vegetable gardens. Opt for a Low-Maintenance Container Garden Containers are the ultimate way to employ flexibility in your vegetable garden. They can be easily arranged and moved, and stored out of the way for winter. They save a lot of time and effort because it's much easier to plant and weed container plants than a conventional vegetable garden. DIY a Chicken Wire Fence If you want to plant a vegetable garden but need to protect it from wildlife, consider a chicken wire enclosure. This inexpensive material can be wrapped around stakes or poles, or used with wood to build a more elaborate fence design. The openings are small enough to keep out most large rodents like woodchucks and rabbits (two of the most destructive pests).+ Fill a Metal Bed With a Medley of Veggies Ready-made raised garden beds are now a very popular way to grow vegetables. Metal beds are considered a great durable option. From simple kits that snap together to ready-made tubs, usually made of galvanized steel, these beds are easy to clean and come at a range of prices. To plant a mix of vegetables in them, plan to have taller plants in the back (like tomatoes supported with stakes) and smaller ones that might spill over the edge in front, like greens, lettuces, and herbs.

Rhubarb is a cool-season garden vegetable that, once established, can produce a crop for up to 15 years, making it a particularly fruitful addition to any garden. Growing rhubarb from crowns is the fastest way to get new plants, but you can grow rhubarb from seeds, too; it will be several years before you can harvest the stalks. Here's how to grow rhubarb from seeds. Can You Grow Rhubarb From Seed? Yes, you can grow rhubarb from seed. The faster way to get rhubarb plants is to grow them from crowns, which can give you a harvest that same year. However, it's easy and cost-effective to start rhubarb plants with seed, you'll just have to wait three years to harvest. Rhubarb is hardy in USDA hardiness zones 3 to 8 and, starting with seeds, is grown either as a perennial or short-lived perennial in zones 1 to 8. Seeds started in zone 9 are grown as an annual crop with a single harvest from March to May. In hardiness zones with long, hot growing seasons, rhubarb is usually grown as an annual by planting new crowns every year. How to Grow Rhubarb From Seed In the right conditions, rhubarb germinates in 7 to 14 days. Seeds should be directly sown or started in pots in early spring in cooler zones, and in late summer or early autumn in warmer zones, depending on climate. How to Plant Rhubarb Seeds Seeds started indoors germinate best between 68°F and 74°F. For direct sowing into the garden, wait until soil temperatures reach between 60°F and 70°F. Soak seeds in warm water for several hours before planting. In the garden, choose a spot that receives six hours of sun exposure daily. Rhubarb needs well-draining soil with a pH of 6.0 to 7.0. In southern climates, provide afternoon shade. Work a good amount of aged compost into the planting bed. Sow seeds 1/2 inch deep and three feet apart in rows five feet apart. Cover with soil and water thoroughly. To germinate in flats use a 50-50 mix of compost and potting soil. Plant one or two seeds per cell, 1/2 inch deep, cover, and water thoroughly. Place flats in a warm location that receives plenty of indirect light. To grow rhubarb in pots, you'll need 10-gallon containers. Plants grow to four feet tall, requiring lots of space. Choose a container with plenty of drainage holes. Use a 50-50 mix of aged compost and potting soil, plant seeds 1/2 inch deep, and water thoroughly. Rhubarb Seedling Care Water the seedlings when the soil gets dry on top. Soggy soil causes dampening off. Harden off for a week to 10 days by gradually exposing flat-grown seedlings to outdoor temperatures and more sunlight before transplanting into the garden. In zones with short growing seasons, try solarizing to raise soil temperature. In hotter climates add a layer of mulch to keep soil cool. Do not fertilize the first year. Compacted soil can be amended with manure or aged compost in subsequent years. Remove flowering stalks throughout the growing season and brown and dried out foliage at the end of the growing season. Harvest Rhubarb Annual rhubarb grown from seed is harvested between March and May. Stalks are usually smaller and seldom develop the pink to red hues of perennial rhubarb. Perennial rhubarb is harvested in May, June, and early July from 3-year-old crowns when stalks reach between 7 and 14 inches tall. Harvest by pulling and twisting the stalk off at the base. Do not cut rhubarb which can damage the crown. Remove leaves which are toxic.1 When to Plant Rhubarb Seeds by Zone When and how to start rhubarb from seeds depends, not just on growing zone, but on frost dates, elevation, microclimate, and other growing conditions. Ideal conditions for growing rhubarb include 500 hours of winter temperatures between 28°F and 40°F. Plants break dormancy above 40°F and begin to die back once temperatures reach 75°F.2 Consider these planting dates a general rule of thumb. USDA zones 1 to 3: Start seeds indoors in flats or pots eight to 10 weeks before final frost, which occurs from early April to May. Transplant when soil temperature reaches 60°F. USDA zone 4: Direct sow two weeks before final frost, from late April to early May, or start seeds in flats eight to 10 weeks before final frost. USDA Zone 5 to 6: Direct sow in the ground two weeks before the final frost in April, or start seeds in flats eight to 10 weeks before the final frost. USDA zone 7: Plant seeds in flats from January to February or directly sow in September and October. May grow as annual or perennial depending on climate. USDA zone 8: Plant seeds in flats from December to January or directly sow in September and October. May grow as annual or perennial depending on climate. USDA zone 9: Plant seeds in flats or direct sow from August to September for transplant into the garden in December. One annual harvest from March to May.

We all know it's important to eat your vegetables, and dark leafy bitter greens are a great addition to any diet. They are a great source of fiber, rich in vitamins K and C, provide iron, calcium, folate, and carotenoids, and act as antioxidants to help remove free radicals from the body. In addition to their nutritional benefits, bitter greens are easy to grow in the winter, and tastier for it; cold temperatures break down starches into simple sugars, producing a milder, sweeter taste more palatable for even the pickiest of eaters. Do Brassicas Actually Get Sweeter After a Frost? University of Tennessee. Learn more about the 5 easiest bitter greens to grow in a patio container or your garden this winter. Spinach Spinach plants (Spinacia oleracea) prefer cooler weather and will produce new tender growth if harvested regularly. In the fall, wait until the soil temperature has dropped below 70°F for good seed germination and sow in a nutrient-rich, loamy soil. You can also purchase seedlings for a quicker harvest. Harvesting of leaves that are between three and six inches long can begin about 37 to 45 days after planting. Start by picking the outer leaves and then harvest the newer leaves as they reach the desired size. "A 3-inch high raised bed with good drainage will reduce the problem of damping off in young seedlings," says Clemson University fruit and vegetable research associate Justin Ballew. Kale Kale (Brassica oleracea) is one of the most popular greens to grow in winter because there are so many varieties. You can grow kale from seed or transplants for an earlier harvest. The best soil temperature for planting kale is 60°F to 65°F and every variety will have a sweeter taste if it is harvested after the first frost. Cabbage Cabbage (Brassica oleracea) is a cool-weather crop that forms a tight center head of the most tender leaves. While it can be grown from seed, cabbage seedling transplants will bring an earlier harvest. Cabbage grows best at around 60°F to 65°F but can tolerate temperatures down to 20°F. Plant spacing will affect how large the head forms so each plant should be at least 12 inches apart. Cabbage plants prefer evenly moist, well-draining soil throughout their growing time. Cabbage requires about 70 days to mature from the time of planting. Once the heads are firm to the touch, they are ready to be harvested. Collards Collards (Brassica oleracea var. viridis) are considered a delicacy in the southern U.S. when at their best in the winter after the first frost. The new, tender collard leaves can be eaten raw but larger leaves must have the center stem removed and then cooked for the best flavor. Collard plants grow with a center stalk and the leaves should be harvested from the bottom of the plant. Pick only a few leaves from each plant so the plant will continue to grow upward producing more leaves. Ballew says that collard microgreens will be ready to harvest 10 to 15 days after seeding with the plant reaching full maturity in 60 to 80 days depending on the cultivar. Mustard Mustard greens (Brassica juncea) are grown for their spicy leaves and seeds. Some varieties are grown for their seeds used to flavor brown mustard. If you're looking for bitter greens, these cultivars are exceptionally tender and flavorful: ‘Carolina Broadleaf’: tender, lightly ruffled, light green leaves ‘Red Giant’: large, maroon-tinged leaves ‘Savannah’: a milder, hybrid mustard with smooth, rounded leaves Mustards reach maturity between 25 to 50 days from sowing, depending on the cultivar. Regular harvesting will help the plants continue to produce tender leaves. As warmer temperatures arrive, the plants will bolt and should be removed from the garden. Why Grow Bitter Greens in Winter? Bitter greens are a cool-season crop that should be planted outdoors in very early spring or late autumn. These plants can withstand freezing temperatures, and will not thrive in the heat and high humidity of summer. Even if you can keep the plants alive during the summer, they will not be as tasty as those grown in winter. Periods of cold temperatures break down the starches in the leaves into simple sugars producing a milder, sweeter taste.2 If you have enjoyed the rewards of gardening during the summer, planting bitter greens in the fall will provide nutritious, fresh produce throughout the winter.

Prized for their edible stems, or spears, asparagus plants are one of the few vegetables that grow perennially, and they're harvested in spring—long before other crops have even sprouted. But while most gardeners grow green, white, or purple asparagus from year-old transplants or “crowns,” you can save money and make your garden more self-sufficient by growing asparagus from seed instead. In this guide, we’ll walk you through the basics of when and how to plant asparagus seeds and teach you how to transplant, care for, and harvest your own asparagus. When and Where to Plant Asparagus Seeds The main difference between growing asparagus from seeds versus asparagus crowns is that you’ll need to wait an extra year to harvest asparagus grown from seed. But the good news is that asparagus seeds are easy to grow, and they can be started indoors or directly in the garden. Asparagus seeds are usually started inside pots or trays in early spring—about 10 to 12 weeks before the last frost. However, asparagus seeds can also be directly sown in in-ground or raised bed gardens after the final frost of spring. How to Plant Asparagus Seeds Many growers keep asparagus plants in nursery beds for the first year of growth to avoid weed competition and provide young plants with the right conditions for sturdy root development. Whether you’re planning to start asparagus seeds indoors or out, here's how to create a simple nursery bed and sow asparagus seeds. Preparing the Nursery Bed To start, choose a growing location that receives at least seven hours of direct sun daily and follow these tips to create a nursery bed. Loosen the soil to a depth of 10 to 12 inches and remove any rocks and weeds. Test the soil and add soil amendments (if needed). Asparagus grows best in rich, well-draining soil with a pH between 6.5 and 7.0. Before planting asparagus seeds or transplants, mix several inches of compost or aged manure into the top few inches of soil. Indoor Sowing Planting asparagus seeds indoors in early spring takes a bit more time, but it gives you more control over the growing conditions and health of young seedlings. Soak the seeds in water for a few hours before planting. While the seeds are soaking, fill seed starting trays or pots with pre-moistened seed starting mix. Sow one to two asparagus seeds per pot or seedling cell, cover the seeds with ½-inch of seed starting mix, and add a humidity dome. Place the seedlings under a grow light and on top of the seedling heating mat and set to 75 to 85 degrees Fahrenheit. Water regularly until the seeds sprout. This can take a few weeks, so be patient! Once the seedlings germinate, remove the humidity dome and heating mat. Continue to water regularly to keep the soil moist, but not soggy. When the seedlings are a few inches tall, leave one seedling per pot or seedling cell and thin out the rest. Transplant indoor seedlings outside when they’re a few inches tall and the danger of frost has past. Outdoor Sowing For a more hands-off approach, plant asparagus seeds outdoors in prepared nursery beds after the last spring frost. Plant seeds ½-inch deep, and 2 to 3 inches apart, in rows spaced approximately 1 foot from each other. If possible, soak the asparagus seeds in water before planting to speed up germination. Water often to keep the soil moist and weed regularly to prevent weed competition. Asparagus seeds should germinate in a few weeks. Once the seedlings have sprouted and are a few inches tall, spread a light layer of straw mulch around the soil line to block out weeds. Transplanting Seeds Seedlings started outdoors won’t need to be transplanted during their first year of growth. However, indoor seedlings should be transplanted outside after the last frost date of spring. Harden the seedlings off over one to two weeks by moving the seedlings outdoors during the day and indoors at night. Gradually increase the amount of time the seedlings are outside and the amount of sun they’re exposed to until the plants can handle full sun. Transplant the asparagus seedlings into rows spaced about 1 foot apart in a prepared nursery bed. Space each plant about 1 foot from its neighbor and bury the seedlings deep enough to cover their roots. Water well and apply a light layer of straw mulch. How to Care for Asparagus After growing for one year in the nursery bed, asparagus crowns can be transplanted into your main garden in early spring. Before planting, loosen the soil and add amendments, then plant the year-old asparagus crowns in 6-inch deep trenches spaced 2 to 3 feet apart. Fan the plants' roots out, space individual plants 2 feet from each other, cover the roots with 2 inches of soil and follow these quick-care tips to maintain a healthy asparagus crop. Mounding. Every few weeks, add more soil over the asparagus crowns until the crowns are covered with a small mound of earth. In winter, layer 4 to 6 inches of straw mulch over the roots for insulation. Watering. Provide asparagus plants with about 1 inch of water per week. Fertilizing. Fertilize asparagus once or twice a year in early spring, and after harvest, with a well-balanced fertilizer or compost. Weeding. Asparagus doesn’t compete well with weeds and beds need regular weeding. Pruning. Don’t cut the fern-like leaves from asparagus plants until they die back in the fall. Those leaves fuel next year’s growth of asparagus. Harvesting Asparagus If you start asparagus plants from seed, you’ll need to wait at least three years to harvest edible spears. Asparagus season begins in spring and stretches until the end of June, but you should only harvest spears for two to three weeks during the first harvest season. Harvest spears when they’re as wide as your finger and about 6 to 8 inches long, and use a sharp knife to cut the spears off at the soil line to limit plant damage.

Edamame, Glycine max, is an edible soybean originating in Japan. It's something of a niche market in the U.S. but gaining popularity as a high protein, low fat snack food for the home garden. In addition to its nutritional value, edamame is ideal for crop rotation and well-suited to organic practices. For home use, edamame is most often harvested young once the pods fill out with two to three beans. Pods are boiled whole then the sweet, nutty beans are removed and eaten much like boiled peanuts. They can be used in place of beans in many recipes including soups, stews, and dips such as hummus. If you can grow green beans in your home garden, you can grow edamame. Here's how. When to Plant Edamame Edamame is a warm-season crop directly sown after the final frost. Soil temperatures should reach 55°F and air temperatures remain at 60°F or higher. Cold, wet soil causes seeds to rot. Plants are sensitive to day length which determines how much time is needed from planting to harvest. Depending on the variety beans may be ready for picking from 65 to 110 days. Seed packets should give information about when to plant for your U.S. hardiness zone and days to harvest. Want more gardening tips? Sign up for our free gardening newsletter for our best growing tips, troubleshooting hacks, and more! How to Plant Edamame Choose an area that receives at least six hours of sun daily. Work in aged compost two to four weeks before planting, then sow seeds 2 to 4 inches apart in rows 2 feet apart. Set them 1/2 - to 1-inch deep and cover with soil. Plants emerge in one to two weeks. When they reach 4 inches tall, thin the crop to 6 inches between plants. Aim to provide an inch of water weekly in lieu of rainfall. Edamame are somewhat drought tolerant but insufficient water causes lower yields. Moisture is most important during flowering and when beans are forming and maturing. Mulch with hay, leaves, or compost to retain soil moisture and control weeds. Like most legumes, edamame are nitrogen fixers which means they don't need additional fertilizer as long as the soil is nutrient-rich. They have a growth habitat similar to bush beans, reaching 1 to 3 feet tall, and generally don't require staking. Types of Edamame Agate: An heirloom variety introduced to the U.S. in the 1920's. Small cream to olive green beans with dark saddles ready to harvest in 65 days. High-yielding and adapted to short growing seasons. Envy: Most popular with home gardeners this variety matures in 75 to 85 days with two to three light green beans in each pod. Midori Giant: Traditional variety used in oriental recipes. Two to three green beans in large pods with high yields. Ready to harvest in 70 days. Chiba Green: Adapted to all U.S. growing zones, pods mature in 82 days with an average of three large, flavorful green beans per pod. Harvesting Edamame Pods on each plant mature simultaneously making harvesting a quick and efficient job. For fresh eating, harvest before the pods and leaves start to turn yellow. Look for plump pods with beans fully filled out to where they almost touch each other inside the pod. Snap them off or use a clipper to remove pods. Avoid pulling them from the plant. Harvest in the morning when beans retain the highest amount of water for the best flavor. You can remove pods individually or pull up the entire plant for harvesting. Most home gardeners harvest edamame for fresh eating, but they can also be harvested for seeds or dry beans. Wait until plants lose their leaves and pods turn yellow. How to Store Edamame Store fresh edamame in the refrigerator for up to one week. Keep them in a perforated bag in the crisper drawer. Edamame can be frozen for up to 12 months. Rinse the pods in cool water then blanch them in boiling water for three minutes. Drain and plunge them into an ice water bath for two minutes. Drain a second time and allow the pods to dry on paper towels. Pack into air-tight freezer bags. For dry beans or seeds, remove them from the dried pods. Pack beans into an air-tight jar and keep in a cool, dark location. Alternatively, you can hang dried plants upside down in a dry location with good air circulation and harvest the pods as needed. Edamame Pests and Diseases Insect pests to watch for include Mexican bean beetles, root-knot nematodes, stink bugs, and white flies. Most can be discouraged by rotating crops and using row covers. Avoid planting edamame in the same location where beans were grown the previous year. Hand-pick pests or spray your crop with insecticidal soap. To discourage root-knot nematodes, rotate crops, remove all plant debris at the end of the season, and choose resistant varieties. White mold and powdery mildew are fungal infections that usually occur during periods of high humidity. Leave adequate spacing between plants for good air circulation and water at ground level in the morning to avoid wetting foliage. Remove and dispose of plants infected with white mold.

Lettuces are cool weather crops usually planted in early spring. Many varieties are also successful in autumn and early winter gardens and, with a bit of protection, provide fresh greens for your table nearly all year long, When to Plant Fall Lettuce To grow fully mature lettuces for late autumn and winter harvests, sow seeds directly into the garden ten to 12 weeks before the first frost. Crops can be harvested early as baby lettuce but need protection to reach mature growth when temperatures drop below 32°F. If you want to grow only baby lettuces, sow seeds four to five weeks before final frost. Lettuce seed can also be started indoors for transplant into the garden or sown directly into a cold frame, high tunnel, or greenhouse. If choosing one of these methods, plant seeds six to seven weeks before the first frost. How to Grow Lettuce in the Fall Many types of lettuces mature quickly, making them ready to harvest in as few as 30 days. Others may require up to 100 days. For successful autumn and early winter harvests keep in mind the following key factors. Seeds will not germinate at temperatures below 32°F. and are forced into dormancy above 70°F. This makes late summer and early autumn planting tricky in climates with hot, dry, late-season weather. Keep the seedbed moist until germination occurs. A light shade cover can aid germination by reducing heat. In the end, you may have better success starting seedlings indoors and transplanting them into the garden. Although lettuce grows best at 60°F to 65 °F, day length determines growth rate. During short winter days, development slows until daylight hours lengthen. As long as plants are protected from freezing temperatures, they'll resume growing. Methods are not much different than planting in early spring. Baby lettuces are directly sown and not grown for transplant. Sow seeds about 1 inch apart and 1/4 inch deep, cover lightly with soil and keep moist. For mature lettuces, decide which method to use, either starting seed indoors for transplanting out or sowing seed directly into the garden, or into a season extender like a cold frame. How to Direct Sow Late Lettuce These steps are the same for outdoor beds, high tunnels, and cold frames. Choose a spot that receives five to six hours of sunlight daily. Prepare a garden bed 6 to 8 inches deep, working in well-aged compost. Scatter seeds or plant them 1/4 inch deep and 6 to 8 inches apart in rows 12 inches apart. Cover lightly with soil. Space seed for crisphead varieties 12 inches apart. Water and keep soil moist until germination occurs, usually in seven to 14 days. Once several sets of leaves appear, you have the option to add fertilizer. Use an organic product such as bloodmeal or kelp or side dress with a granular NPK 5-10-10 and water in. Continue watering when the top inch of soil gets dry. Protect exposed plants from freezing air temperatures by installing a season extender such as a freeze cloth or a hoop tunnel. Grow Lettuce Transplants For Autumn and Winter Harvest Fill a seed starting tray with a slightly dampened, loose, well-draining mix with little to no fertilizer. A potting mix formulated for vegetables is a good choice. Sow one or two seeds per cell or 6 to 8 inches apart in a flat. Plant seeds 1/4 inch deep and cover lightly with potting mix. You can also scatter sow seeds and thin plants once they sprout. Water and keep soil consistently moist but not soggy until germination in seven to 14 days. When seedlings are 2 to 3 inches tall with several sets of true leaves, transplant them into the garden bed. Fertilize with bloodmeal, fish emulsion, or side dress with a granular NPK 5-10-10 and water in. When temperatures dip below freezing protect plants with freeze cloth or similar cover. Best Types of Lettuce For Fall Growing There are essentially four main types of lettuce with various cultivars suited for autumn and winter crops. Romaine Lettuce Romaine lettuces feature tall, elongated leaves with sturdy center ribs. Outer leaves are dark green with lighter inner leaves that have crisp texture and earthy to slightly bitter flavor. Romaine is ready to harvest in about 65 days. Butterhead Lettuce Butterhead lettuces feature large, buttery soft leaves formed in loose heads. They have a tender texture and mild, sweet flavor. Butterhead lettuces mature in 50 to 60 days. Looseleaf Lettuces Looseleaf lettuces are sometimes described as 'cut and come again.' Leaves grow from a central stem and may be green or red with ruffled tops and crisp stems. The texture is crunchy with a mild, sweet flavor. Leaves are harvested individually as they mature starting in four to six weeks. Crisphead Lettuces Crisphead lettuces form tight, rounded heads of light green, overlapping leaves. The texture is crunchy with a neutral, mild, slightly sweet flavor. This type requires the longest growing time of up to 100 days to reach harvest maturity. Crisphead varieties are developed for greater heat rather than cold tolerance and most varieties can be grown as winter crops with protection. How to Protect Lettuce in Early Winter Lettuces with sturdier, compact leaves like romaine and crisphead are better suited to withstand frost which improves the flavor of some varieties. All lettuce leaves, though, turn soggy and lose shape when exposed to freezing temperatures. Season extenders like cold frames, greenhouses, and high tunnels are ideal places to grow winter lettuce crops. For lettuces grown in the garden, keep thermal or freeze blankets handy along with a set of hoops or other supports. Avoid placing covers directly on top of plants which can trap moisture and damage leaves. In areas with extended freezes, leave covers in place or remove them during daytime hours when air temperatures rise above 32°F.

After putting in all the effort that goes into hollowing out and carving jack-o-lanterns, no one wants to see their carved pumpkins spoil before Halloween. But, pumpkins only last for about 3 to 5 days after carving (and spoil even faster in warm weather). With Halloween just around the corner, I wanted to find out how to keep pumpkins from rotting, so I took to the internet and tracked down three viral hacks that allegedly keep pumpkins fresh longer. I gave the hacks a test run on my own pumpkins and here are the results. The Test I started my test in early October when the temperatures were around 60 degrees F during the day. I purchased 4 pumpkins that were similar in size, color, and texture to keep the test as consistent as possible. I even carved (or tried to) the same face onto each picture-perfect pumpkin. I did keep one pumpkin as a control to get a clear idea of how long pumpkins last in the conditions around my home. Below is the lineup of hacks that I tried: Diluted bleach spray: I sprayed one pumpkin daily, inside and out, with a diluted bleach spray made with 1 part bleach to 9 parts water. Hair spray: I sprayed one pumpkin, inside and out, with hair spray and applied this treatment only once after carving the pumpkin. Coconut oil: I rubbed coconut oil, inside and out, on one pumpkin and applied this treatment one time, right after carving. It's also biodegradable and compostable. Day 1 I cleaned the exterior of all the pumpkins with diluted bleach, carved them, applied the treatments to the test pumpkins, and set the pumpkins outside without candles. All three treatments were easy to apply, although the coconut oil was slightly messy. By evening, the control pumpkin and the pumpkin sprayed with bleach looked a little dry around their carved edges, but the other two pumpkins still looked fresh. Day 3 The weather remained warm and sunny through day 3 and, by the third day, that warmth was starting to take its toll on the control pumpkin and the pumpkin treated with bleach. These two pumpkins had already developed small patches of dark mold on their interiors, although their carved edges still looked mold-free and fresh enough for display. There was no visible mold on the hairspray and coconut oil pumpkins, but the skin near the carved sections of the hairspray pumpkin had darkened. Day 5 The difference in the pumpkins was undeniable by day 5. The weather was still pleasant and warm and all 4 pumpkins had at least some mold growing on their interiors; however, the coconut oil pumpkin had significantly less mold than the other three pumpkins and its carving still looked fresh. The hairspray pumpkin had a fair amount of mold on its interior but was still displayable. The control and bleach pumpkins, however, had mold growing along their carved eyes and mouths and did not look fresh. Days 6 through 10 Most pumpkin lovers would have disposed of the control and bleach pumpkins by day 5 or 6 due to visible mold, but I kept the experiment going a little longer. By day 10, all four pumpkins had dark mold on their interiors and carved sections, but the coconut oil pumpkin had much less mold than the other pumpkins. The carved edges of the coconut oil pumpkin also looked fresher and displayed less wrinkling and warping. Final Verdict Honorable mention: the hairspray treatment, which did appear to repel mold better than the bleach treatment. The clear winner: coconut oil. While the coconut oil treatment was messier to apply, it kept the pumpkin’s carved edges from drying out, significantly inhibited mold growth by at least 3 days compared to the control, and kept the pumpkin in displayable shape for at least 10 days. Considering the results of this experiment, I plan to wipe the pumpkins I carve for trick-or-treat night down with coconut oil after I carve them. But I’m also going to carve those pumpkins when the weather is cooler to help them stay fresh even longer.

Planting onion sets or slips in autumn has some distinct advantages and is much like planting garlicor shallots. But success isn't always guaranteed. Timing, along with your specific growing zone, and choosing the right onion variety all make a difference between big, flavorful bulbs and small bulbs or ones that fail to develop. This guide tells you when and how to plant autumn onions for a bountiful harvest the following spring and summer. Want more gardening tips? Sign up for our free gardening newsletter for our best-growing tips, troubleshooting hacks, and more! Why Plant Onions in Fall? Onions establish and develop green tops and roots in cooler weather which translates to bigger and more flavorful bulbs. In northern zones, spring planted onions need to get into the ground early which can be challenging unless you have already prepared a raised bed or garden area. Setting them out in autumn gives plants a head start, allowing them to establish before winter frost and freezing. After several frosts, plants go dormant. When temperatures start to rise in spring and day hours lengthen, your onions are ready to direct energy into growing bulbs. Keeping autumn-planted onions free of weeds is easier as many garden weeds have died back. How to Plant Onions in Fall Both sets and slips (young plants) need four to six weeks to establish tops and roots before frost sets in. Find the first frost date in your zone and back time to find out the best day/s for planting. Start by digging a trench 2 to 3 inches deep and 2 inches wide. Fill the bottom of the trench with an inch or two of well-aged compost. Place the sets or slips about 1/2 inch into the compost layer allowing 4 to 6 inches in between each onion. Place sets with the pointed end facing up. Fill the rest of the trench with soil, covering the onion with about 1/2 inch of soil. If you start with slips, leave any green tops above the soil surface. Water and mulch with a thin layer of straw or dried leaves. Once new green growth appears, add more mulch and continue to water every few days. You'll need a mulch layer of at least 6 inches to protect roots when ground freezes. Best Onions for Fall Planting Onion sets are widely available in spring, sold as yellow, white, or red, and often not identified by variety. Try searching online or in garden catalogs to find sets or slips for autumn planting. Look for varieties most successful in your growing zone. Onions are categorized as short-day, intermediate, or long-day. Keep in mind that sets need 80 days and slips need up to 110 days to mature from the time they're planted. Here are a few onion varieties to consider for autumn planting. 'Electric': Winter hardy with shiny red skin and pink-tinged flesh. Mild, sweet flavor. 'Radar': Yellow, globe-shaped Japanese variety. Mild flavor and good bolt resistance. 'Snowball': A short-day variety with medium-sized, slightly flattened bulbs. A mild but tangy onion best for eating fresh. 'Granex': Large, globe-shaped bulbs are mild and sweet. A short-day variety and a popular choice for southern gardens. 'Walla Walla': Extra large bulbs mature in 90 days. This long day type is comparable to Vidalia onion in flavor. Spring and Summer Harvesting Once soil warms in spring and day time hours increase, autumn planted onions start forming bulbs. Short day onions are the quickest to bulb up and ready to harvest in as few as 75 days in late April and early May. Intermediate and long day types will be ready to harvest from early to mid summer. The sooner daylight hours reach the time needed for bulbing, the sooner you'll be able to harvest good size onions. When bulbs are mature, they sit partially above soil level and the green tops turn yellow and flop over. Mature bulbs can remain in the ground for one or two weeks but if left too long they become vulnerable to thrips and can soften and rot.

Yellowing green bean leaves are not always cause for concern—they can sometimes be a natural sign of aging in bean plants. But if you see leaves on green beans turning yellow mid-season, or if your plants are becoming less productive, it could be due to fungal, bacterial, or environmental stressors. Here are 6 common reasons why bean leaves turn yellow, plus simple, organic solutions to help your plants recover. Watering Stress Underwatering and overwatering can cause yellowing bean leaves, making it difficult to know exactly what’s going on with your plants. The best way to determine if your plants receive too much or too little water is to insert your finger into the soil. If the soil feels soggy and you haven’t watered recently, your plants are likely overwatered and root rot may be settling in. How to Fix Beans should receive about 1 inch of water per week. If you often forget to water, apply a layer of mulch around the base of your plants to keep the soil from drying out too quickly, and consider installing an automated drip irrigation system. If your plants are overwatered, adjust your watering schedule, scrape the mulch away from around your plant, and allow the soil to dry out before watering again. Lighting Issues Beans need at least 8 hours of direct light daily to grow. In low-light conditions, beans may develop yellowing leaves, but too much bright light can cause yellowing leaves, too. How to Fix Beans are difficult to transplant once established, but you can avoid lighting stress by choosing a growing spot that receives 8 to 10 hours of daily light. Nutrient Deficiencies Although beans fix nitrogen, they can still suffer from nutritional deficiencies in poor soil. Nutrient deficiencies produce different symptoms depending on what nutrients are missing; however, most deficiencies result in stunted plant growth and yellowing leaves with visible, green veins. How to Fix Testing your soil every few years and adding an annual application of compost is the best way to avoid plant nutrient deficiencies. You may also want to fertilize beans with an all-purpose fertilizer, adjust the pH of alkaline soils, and apply a legume inoculant to bean seeds before planting. Inoculants boost nitrogen fixation and make it easier for beans to absorb nutrients. Plant Diseases Diseases caused by bacteria, fungi, and viruses can produce yellowing bean leaves and other symptoms. Bacterial blight usually produces brown leaf spots with yellow halos. Bean mosaic virus may develop cupped or puckered leaves with a mottled yellow mosaic pattern. Fungal issues, like white mold and bean rust, may also produce leaf spots and yellow lesions, especially in overcrowded gardens. How to Fix Purchasing disease-resistant seeds from reliable seed companies can keep some plant diseases out of your garden. However, you can also reduce diseases by rotating crops, watering beans at the soil line, weeding regularly, following proper spacing guidelines, and destroying infested plant material at the end of the season. Pests While pests can cause yellowing leaves through the spread of plant diseases, sap-sucking pests may also directly cause yellowing leaves by feeding on plant sap. Pest damage typically presents as tiny dots or speckles on affected leaves, but pests may also skeletonize or chew holes in bean leaves. How to Fix Aphids, thrips, bean beetles, and spider mites are some of the most common bean pests, but these pests can be controlled with handpicking, organic soap sprays, and companion planting. Strongly scented herbs and flowers, like marigolds and nasturtiums, are especially good companion plants for natural pest control. Natural Processes While pests, diseases, and environmental stresses can cause bean leaves to yellow, aging bean plants may also develop yellowing leaves at the end of the growing season. Yellowing leaves caused by natural aging usually occur towards the base of the plant, and leaf yellowing may be exacerbated by cool temperatures. How to Fix Yellowing leaves that occur late in the growing season are a part of the natural aging process of bean plants and they signal that bean plants are reaching the end of their life. There is no need to address yellowing leaves caused by natural aging; however, you may be able to extend your bean growing season a little longer by installing season extension products, like row covers. 3 Additional Tips to Grow Great Green Beans If you want your bean plants to be even more productive, try out these quick and easy bean care tips! Trellising. Bush-type beans don’t need trellises, but pole and vining beans grow better with support. Cattle panel trellises are one of the best solutions if you want to grow lots of beans together, but you can also make DIY bean supports with bamboo poles or upcycled tomato cages. Spacing. To avoid fungal issues and other plant diseases, space bean plants at least 6 inches apart in rows that are at least 18 to 24 inches from each other. Harvesting. Regularly harvesting beans will make plants more productive, but don’t tug on bean pods when you harvest. Instead, pinch or cut bean pods off the plant so you don’t accidentally damage tender stems.

Dozens of pepper varieties can be grown in the home garden. Once you find your favorites, you may never have to purchase seeds again—turns out, you can save pepper seeds easily to plant next year. Follow our simple steps on how to save pepper seeds for a huge haul of future pepper plants. Which Peppers Can You Save Seeds From? Saving pepper seeds requires a bit of planning to get the best and most viable seeds for next season's planting. If you are growing hybrid peppers (F1 is printed after the name on the seed packet), the seeds will not produce the same pepper next year. When saving pepper seeds, open-pollinated, will produce new plants of the same variety. When Should You Collect Pepper Seeds? Seeds should only be collected from mature peppers. Unripe fruit does not produce viable seeds. The peppers should be mature but not overly ripe, diseased, or beginning to mold. Seeds can be collected from freshly picked peppers or from peppers that have been allowed to dry for several months off the vine. How to Remove Seeds from Peppers To remove the seeds, cut open the pepper and gently rub or shake the seeds from the center of the fruit. You can use a fine mesh or paper towel to catch the seeds. How to Dry Pepper Seeds Dried Peppers If the seeds have been removed from peppers that have been allowed to dry off the vine for three to four months, they may not require any additional drying. If they feel slightly damp, spread the seeds on a baking sheet and dry in the oven at 100 degrees F. for two hours. Fresh Peppers If you have saved seeds from a fresh pepper, the flesh should be rinsed away from the seeds. You can do this by placing the seeds in a bowl of cool water and gently swishing them around with your hands. The loose pepper flesh and immature seeds will float the top and can be skimmed off. You can also place the seeds in a fine mesh colander and rinse them under water. After rinsing, allow the seeds to dry on a paper towel or a mesh screen in a cool location until the seeds are dry enough to break when pressed with a fingernail. To speed drying, spread the seeds on a clean baking tray and dry at 100 degrees F. for about six hours. Where to Store Pepper Seeds When the seeds are dry, they can be stored in small glass jars, paper bags, or any moisture-proof container. Always label the container with the date and the type of pepper. Store seeds in a cool, dark, dry location or a freezer. If they are stored in an area that is too warm or moist, the seeds may begin to germinate or mold and become no longer viable. How to Know If Pepper Seeds Are Still Good Pepper seeds will produce the best results if planted the next year but can be viable for up to five years. You can do one of these tests to predict if the seeds are still good. Germination test: Place 10 to 15 seeds with plenty of space between each seed on several layers of damp paper towels. Fold the towels and place them in a sealable plastic bag. Put the bag in a warm spot for two weeks. Remove the towels from the bag and count how many seeds have sprouted to get a percentage of viable seeds for planting. Floater test: Place the seeds in a bowl of water and remove any that float. Floating seeds are less viable than the dense seeds that have developed a seed embryo. Plant immediately or allow to dry thoroughly if storing longer.

The popularity of butternut squash among home gardeners is not surprising. With its dense, sweet, and slightly nutty flesh, it is one of the most versatile winter squashes. It also comes in compact, bush varieties that fit small spaces, such as Butterbush, and it’s easy to grow. To fully enjoy the fruits of your labor, follow these tips about how and when to harvest butternut squash as well as necessary post-harvest steps, including curing and proper storage. If you haven’t eaten it all by then, it will let you put dishes made from your homegrown butternut squash on your Thanksgiving table. When to Harvest Butternut Squash Butternut squash is ready to harvest when you notice a few key signs: it turns from green to orange, the rind is hard, and the stem/vines have dried up and died back. Once you can check all the boxes, you don’t have to harvest it right away. Just make sure you harvest all the butternut squash before the first fall frost, as it will store longer if it isn’t exposed to frost. Color As butternut squash ripens, its skin turns from green to a light beige to a deep, solid tan color and no green streaks. Depending on the variety there might be some bronze or orange highlights (and no green streaks) in it when the fruit is ripe. Skin The skin or rind should be hard and pass the fingernail test: when scratching it with your fingernail leaves a mark or breaks, the butternut squash isn’t ready; it needs for time for the skin to harden. Another indicator is dull and not glossy or shiny skin. Vines and Stems The vines should be crispy, shriveled, and yellowing, in other words, dying when the butternut squash is ready. Green vines indicate that the butternut squash needs more time. The stem should be hard and dry and of uniform tan color. How to Harvest Butternut Squash When it’s time to harvest the squash, follow these steps: Using a sharp knife or pruners, cut the fruit from the vine about 3 to 4 inches of the stem on the squash. Do not lift or pick up the squash by its stem when removing it from your garden, as the stem easily breaks off. If any stems break off, set those squashes aside to use first. Butternut squashes without stems are more prone to rotting and won’t store well because bacteria can enter the fruit. Curing Butternut Squash After harvesting, it is important to let the skin of the squash harden more. In the process, any scratches or cuts are being sealed. This process is called curing. Cure the butternut squash for 1 to 2 weeks at a temperature between 70 and 80 degrees F.1 Pick a location that is warm, well-ventilated, dry, and not accessible for critters and insects. A screened-in porch, garage, or shed is ideal. Storing Butternut Squash After curing, store the butternut squash in a cool, dry, well-ventilated location at 50 to 60 degrees F.1 Make sure there are no apples, pears, or other ripening fruit nearby, as the ethylene gas they exude affects the storage life of squash. Properly cured and stored butternut squash can be stored for 4 to 6 months but it is best when used within 2 to 3 months. Saving Seeds of Butternut Squash If you want to save the seeds of your butternut squash, make sure that it is an open-pollinated variety; otherwise, the plants from those seeds won’t be true to seed and won’t have the same desirable qualities. Extract the seeds when you are using one of the squashes for cooking. However, don’t cut the squash open in half all the way as you would normally do because cutting through will damage the seeds. Only cut through the skin and top layer of the squash from top to bottom and as deeply as needed to split the squash open into two halves. Remove as much of the stringy pulp around the seeds as possible, then place the seeds in a large bowl with cold water and swirl them around to dislodge more pulp. Pour the pulpy water off the top and keep the seeds at the bottom of the bowl. Repeat this a couple of times. Drain the seeds in a fine strainer and place them in a single layer on plates lined with paper towels. Place them in a dry place out of direct sunlight for about one week, or until they are thoroughly dried. Store them in labeled envelopes in a dry, dark place.

When the weather grows chilly and the days get short, you know pumpkin season has arrived. The quintessential fall crop, pumpkins are typically harvested when the rinds develop their mature coloration, or about 90 to 120 days after sowing. It can be difficult to know exactly when to harvest pumpkins since not all pumpkins turn orange at harvest time (and some varieties mature faster than others). If you’re perplexed by picking pumpkins, these tips will help you harvest sugary sweet pie pumpkins and sturdy carving pumpkins at the perfect time. When to Harvest Pumpkins Different pumpkin varieties mature at different rates, but most pumpkins are harvested from late August through October. To get a better idea of exactly when your pumpkins will be ready, take a look at your seed packet. Most pumpkins are harvested about 90 days after planting, but giant pumpkins and other slow growers can take over 160 days to ripen. 5 Signs Your Pumpkin Is Ready to Pick Pumpkins have a longer shelf life and a sweeter flavor if they’re allowed to fully ripen in the garden. But mature pumpkins can vary significantly in shape, size, and color, which can make it hard to know exactly when they’re ready to harvest. If you want to pick pumpkins at the right time, these signs of ripeness will let you know when your pumpkins are ready. They developed their mature color. While most people associate ripe pumpkins with the color orange, different pumpkin varieties may produce yellow, white, or even greenish-blue fruit! Knowing what color your pumpkins are supposed to be when mature will help you judge when your pumpkins are ripe. The vines are brown and dying. Pumpkins continue to grow as long as their vines are green. But when cold weather hits and the pumpkin vines start to brown and shrivel, it’s time to harvest! Rinds feel tough. Pumpkin rinds thicken as the fruit ages and fully ripe pumpkins should have leathery rinds that are difficult to pierce with your fingernail. Skin is dull. Underripe pumpkins often have glossy skins that catch the sunlight, while ripe pumpkins have dull, matte rinds. The sound is hollow. If you’ve ever knocked on a ripe pumpkin with your knuckles, you know they sound a bit hollow. That’s because pumpkins develop more interior air pockets when they reach a harvestable size. 6 Tips for Harvesting Pumpkins Pumpkins can be harvested one at a time as the fruit ripens, or you can harvest the entire plant in one go if the vine has started to die away. Here are a few tips to make harvesting even easier and protect your pumpkin crop from damage: Wear gloves. Pumpkins have prickly stems and leaves, which can irritate the skin if you don’t wear gloves when harvesting. Harvest on a sunny day. Although pumpkins can technically be harvested in any weather, harvesting pumpkins on a dry, sunny day helps pumpkins cure faster and keeps plant diseases from spreading. Make a clean cut. Fully ripe pumpkins often have dried stems that detach easily from the pumpkin vine. If the stems still feel sturdy, harvest your pumpkins with sharp pruners so you don’t accidentally damage the plant. Leave some stem. Pumpkin stems add a bit of charm, but they also prevent fungi and bacteria from seeping into pumpkins and causing rot. Be gentle. To avoid breaks and bruises, handle your pumpkins gently and never carry them by their stems. Pick pumpkins before a hard freeze. It’s best to leave pumpkins in the garden until they’re fully ripe, but pumpkins should always be harvested before a hard freeze. As long as the pumpkins have started to develop their mature color, they should ripen just fine indoors. How to Store Pumpkins While pumpkins can be eaten or carved immediately after harvesting, pumpkins intended for long-term storage should be cured to thicken up their skins and reduce the chances of rot. Before curing, rinse your pumpkins in a 10% bleach solution and allow them to air dry. Spread your harvest out in a single layer in a warm, dry, and protected spot, and allow the pumpkins to dry and cure for 1 to 2 weeks. After curing, store your pumpkins in a cool location, like a well-ventilated root cellar, or keep them outdoors on a covered porch. Pumpkins stay fresh longer if you store them out of direct sun and keep them in a cool spot that stays between 45 and 55 degrees Fahrenheit. Whole pumpkins also last longer than carved ones, so wait until just before Halloween to carve jack-o-lanterns.

If you're growing potatoes (Solanum tuberosum) in your garden, you might be surprised to see them start to bloom. While we grow potatoes for their edible tubers that develop underground, it's important for potato plants to mature above the surface, too. Depending on the potato variety, potato flowers can come in a range of different colors and shapes. But should they be removed? What Potato Flowers Look Like Potatoes are a nightshade, a family of flowering plants that also includes plants like tomatoes, eggplant, and peppers. Because of this, potato flowers have a similar shape to tomato or eggplant flowers. Different potato varieties produce different flower types—some might be large and vivid, while others smaller and clustered. Potato flowers can be white, purple, pink, blue, or red, with anthers (the part of the stamen that contains pollen) that can be yellow, red, or dark purple. The blooms' coloring can sometimes serve as clues to the possible colors of the skin and flesh of the potatoes growing underneath the soil. Why Potatoes Produce Flowers Flowering is a normal part of a potato plant's lifecycle, and their presence indicate the plant is healthy and maturing properly. Generally, potato plants will start flowering a few weeks before the potatoes are ready to be harvested. You should harvest baby potatoes (new potatoes) two to three weeks after they've finished flowering, and harvest potatoes for storing (mature potatoes) two to three weeks after the plant's foliage has died back. Like other flowering plants, a potato plant produce blooms in order to reproduce. If pollinated, potato blossoms will grow small green fruits that resemble underripe cherry tomatoes. Each potato berry contains around 300 seeds that can technically be planted and used to grow more potato plants. However, these green potato berries contain solanine, which is very toxic even in small amounts, and they should not be eaten. And most potatoes are grown from seed potatoes, a potato that has been grown to be replanted to produce a potato crop. If your potato plants aren't producing flowers, don't fret. Potatoes don't always bloom, and the flowers are not required to produce tubers. In fact, some potato varieties barely produce blooms at all—whether or not a potato plant flowers doesn't affect the quality or quantity of the potatoes it produces. What to Do When a Potato Plant Flowers When you see your potato plant start to produce flowers, this is an indication that tubers are developing underground and will be reader to pull up from the ground soon. When you see them blooming, you can either prune them away or leave them be—your decision will depend on a number of different factors. If you're growing potatoes in an area that small children or pets can easily get to, it is wise to remove the potato flowers to prevent them from developing into toxic green potato berries. Removing the potato flowers might also help increase potato yield, as the energy the plant would normally send to produce fruits and seeds is redirected to forming the tubers below the ground. However, removing potato flowers is an optional step. If their presence is non-threatening to children or pets, it's perfectly fine to let your potato plants flower if you want to enjoy their vibrant blossoms.

If you’ve tried growing spinach but struggle to get this leafy green to do well when temperatures soar, why not try lesser-known orach (also known as mountain spinach) instead? This fast-growing, hardy, ornamental annual is more resistant to heat and drought while packing a similar nutritious punch. It's a forgiving plant that grows in most soils, but it needs a full sun position and prefers an evenly moist, rich medium to produce the healthiest harvest. Orach Care Here are the main care requirements for growing beginner-friendly orach: Position in full sun. Plant in a well-draining, moist soil to prevent bolting. Fertilize regularly or amend soil with organic matter. Prune tall plants to produce the most flavorsome leaves. Light While orach is a hardy and forgiving plant, one thing that’s essential for good growth is a full sun position. Soil Orach grows well in most soils, provided they are well-draining. However, it prefers loamy soils that are organically rich and with an element of moisture-retentiveness. This plant tolerates a wide range of pH levels and is ideal for highly alkaline soils, which some species struggle with. Orach is also known for being tolerant of high levels of salinity. Water While orach is a reasonably drought-tolerant plant, insufficient water typically results in bolting. This premature seed production means the leaf harvest might not be usable. It's best to water freely in dry conditions to keep the soil evenly moist without letting the roots stand in water. Adding a layer of moisture-retaining mulch can be helpful during periods of drought. Temperature and Humidity Orach is adaptable to a wide range of temperatures. One of its biggest advantages is its heat tolerance. It does best in temperate climates, with temperatures between 40°F to 75°F. However, you can still enjoy a bountiful, tasty harvest during a heatwave, provided you keep the soil moist. Light freezes aren't a problem for orach, but when they are sustained, the plant will die. Orach is also good for exposed sites, as strong winds don't phase it. Fertilizer Fast-growing orach loves rich, fertile soils, so consider amending the soil with organic matter such as leaf mold compost or manure. A couple of times during the growing season, you can also offer an additional nutrient boost by feeding an NPK fertilizer formula that is high in nitrogen. This ensures the focus is on foliage growth. Types of Orach Tall-growing, leafy orach is often grown for its ornamental value as well as its nutritious leaves, and this is especially true of the ‘Fire Red’ cultivar. The red shade on the leaves remains even after cooking, making it an attractive addition to decorative dishes. There are also white (pale green) and green (dark green) color variations. Pruning Orach can grow to 6 feet tall. However, keeping it low by clipping helps produce tender leaves that aren't too bitter. Pruning and ample water also help reduce the chance of bolting during hot, dry periods. Propagating Orach It's easiest to propagate fast-growing orach by directly sowing the seeds in your garden anytime from March to August. If you want a successive supply of leaves through the growing season, sow at four-week intervals across this time. Follow these steps to encourage germination: Space rows of seeds around 20 to 30 inches apart after the danger of frost has passed. You don't need to start this hardy species indoors. Sow seeds so they are just lightly covered with soil (less than half an inch deep). Space individual seeds around 1 to 2 inches apart. Keep the soil evenly moist. Once they germinate, thin seedlings to around 6 to 10 inches apart. Tender, flavorful leaves should be ready to harvest between 40 and 60 days after sowing the seeds. Trim off individual leaves with garden scissors once they reach a size where you like the taste. Alternatively, harvest the whole plant once it is around 4 to 6 inches tall. Common Pests and Plant Diseases Hardy orach is typically disease- and pest-free. However, it might become host to a couple of rare bugs. These include the beet cyst eelworm (Heterodera schachtii) and the tortoise beetle (Cassida nebulosa).1 Removing the orach and rotating the crops for a couple of years with non-susceptible plant species is often the best way to eliminate eelworms. Tortoise beetles can be removed by hand before infestations get out of control. Aphids can also sometimes be a problem. Occasionally, the plant can also suffer from Wisconsin tobacco disease (Pseudomonas syringae pv. mellea) or bacterial canker (Pseudomonas syringae pv. syringae).1 While rare, both these bacterial pathogens can be tricky to diagnose and treat. Again, sometimes it's best to dispose of infected plants and rotate with non-susceptible plant species. Common Problems with Orach Orach is a plant that’s easy to grow in your vegetable garden or cottage garden flower beds. But even hardy species won’t thrive if you don’t offer the conditions they prefer. Below are some early warning signs you need to make some changes if you want to benefit from a bountiful harvest. Yellowing Leaves If your plant’s leaves are turning yellow, you must do some detective work. This commonly relates to insufficient light, over- or underwatering, or pest problems. You might need to reposition your orach plant into a sunnier spot or adjust your watering schedule to ensure evenly moist, not soggy soil. Stunted Growth If these tall, erect, and fast-growing plants don’t seem to be developing as you would expect, they could be infected with a pathogenic nematode, like the beet cyst eelworm. Selecting potatoes as a companion plant can also result in stunted growth. Companion Plants Generally, orach does well with companion plants also suited to spinach or amaranth. Below are a couple of suggestions of what to plant alongside this species. Sweet Alyssum Sweet alyssum (Lobularia maritima) is a beautiful flower that attracts hoverflies. These beneficial insects eat aphids, helping to control the populations which can sometimes be a problem for orach.2 Legumes Peas and beans provide a beneficial nitrogen boost to soils. This is ideal for helping to promote the growth of leafy plants like orach.