gardening

Every gardener growing tomatoes waits for that first juicy, fresh, off-the-vine bite. When the wait seems to go on forever and fruits stay green for weeks, it could be that they aren't getting enough sun. Tomato plants need full sun, or closer to eight hours consistently every day, through all growth stages. When your tomatoes refuse to turn red, they could be getting too little sun. Here's what to know about how much sun tomatoes need, and our best advice on how to get them the light they need to give you the growth you want. Light Requirements for Tomatoes Though tomatoes will have different requirements for light depending on the growth stage, they need 6–8 hours of direct sunlight a day to produce the juiciest fruit—this is considered "full sun." Finding the perfect place to plant tomatoes takes some planning, as light exposure plays a major role through all stages of plant growth. In the early stages, poor light with high temperatures can decrease flower and fruit production, increase vulnerability to fungal and leaf spot diseases, and lead to pests. Later, not enough light produces straggly weak vines and small, poor-quality fruits. During fruit development, too much sun leads to a poor harvest with fruits vulnerable to sunscald, cracking, and uneven ripening. Vegetative Stage During the first 30 to 45 days after transplant, tomato plants grow vines and leaves. This is called the vegetative stage and may be a little shorter or longer depending on variety. Vines grow rapidly and use a lot of nutrients. Since nutrients are delivered through photosynthesis which is dependent on energy from light, a minimum six hours of bright, direct sun is needed during early growth. Flower/Early Fruit Stage Between 30 and 45 days you should begin to see small yellow flowers open on your plants. In this stage light energy supports flowering and fruit set. Small fruits start to form between 70 and 100 days depending on variety. Six hours of light is adequate and eight hours can boost fruit production. Excess heat begins to enter the equation and temperatures above 85 to 90 degrees can reduce flower production and fruit development. Ripening Stage Temperature becomes more important during the ripening phase about 30 days after fruit appears. Lycopene and carotene are pigments that give tomatoes their red color. Ideal temperatures for pigment to develop is 70 to 75 degrees F. When temperatures exceed 85 to 90 degrees F., pigment production is reduced and may even stop. Grown and cared for correctly, foliage shades fruits which takes heat out of direct sunlight for more uniform ripening. Six to eight hours is still needed to maintain healthy plants, especially with indeterminate varieties that produce fruit all season long. Why Morning and Afternoon Light Is Crucial Morning and afternoon light are both important for tomato growth. In the morning, the sun is high overhead, shining directly on the garden. At noon it reaches its highest point during daylight hours. This is when it is strongest, producing the greatest amount of energy.1 Morning light is important because it dries dew, decreases nutrient loss through evaporation, and initiates photosynthesis. Afternoon sun exposure extends the daily energy and growth cycle, giving tomatoes the sunlight quantity they need. The Best Tips to Make Sure Tomatoes Get Enough Sun Plant tomato varieties that grow well in your specific growing zone and climate. Mulch to lower soil temperature and improve moisture retention. Orient your plants in an east to west direction to access the first sunlight in the morning and throughout the day. Consider geographic features that reduce light availability or create microclimates. Avoid pruning or removing leaves during fruit formation and ripening. Plant corn or pole beans on the western side for protection from the hot afternoon sun. Leave adequate space between plants for good air circulation. Consider using white shade cloth which reduces heat but doesn't affect light quality.2 Harvest fruit early as soon as it shows color and keep in a shaded area to finish ripening.

Tomatillos produce green or purple fruits encased in a papery husk. Distant cousins to a tomato with a tangy, slightly acidic flavor, tomatillos are ready to harvest 75-100 days after the seedlings are settled in the garden. The fruit will completely fill the husk and easily pull off the plant. As an indeterminate plant, tomatillos continue to flower and produce fruit throughout the summer until frost. Because of the husk and green color, it can be confusing about when to harvest a tomatillo. Follow our tips for the best harvesting results. 5 Signs Tomatillos Are Ripe and Ready to Pick It's been 3-4 months since you planted. The first tomatillos are usually ready to be harvested 60 to 75 days after the seedlings are placed in the garden or settled into a container for the summer. The fruit is firm. If a tomatillo feels soft, it's likely overripe and less flavorful. It's reached peak color. For example, a purple tomatillo variety will be firm, purple, and no longer green when ready to pick. The husk changes from green to a light brown. The husk will be dry surrounding the tomatillo. The papery husk has not yet split. A fully-split husk means the fruit is overripe. When to Harvest Tomatillos Since tomatillos are indeterminate, they will not flower and set fruit all at once. Harvesting should be done every few days throughout the growing season. The fruit should be firm, the papery husk should be full, and a good hack to follow that tomatillos are ready? The fruit will often drop off the plant before it is fully ripened. These fruits can be gathered and stored in a cool, dry place in the husk until fully firm and ripe. After You've Harvested Every Tomatillo for the Season At the end of the season, the entire plant can be removed from the garden or container and hung upside down in a cool area. Any fruit remaining on the vines will continue to ripen and be good for several months. During the growing season, mature fruit should be placed in a cool location immediately following harvest and can be refrigerated in the husk in a paper bag for up to three weeks. How to Harvest Tomatillos the Right Way Tomatillos are easy to remove from the mother plant by hand or with pruning shears. Harvest by hand by giving the fruit a slight twist from the stem. If it does not yield easily, the fruit isn't mature. Keep a basket or bucket nearby to collect the fruit and place it in the container gently to avoid bruising and cracking. 6 Additional Tomatillo Growing Tips Always plant at least two tomatillo plants. They are not self-fruitful so two plants are needed for cross-pollination by insects. An individual plant may produce 64 to 200 fruits in a season. Tomatillos need about 1 to 1.5 inches of water per week and full sun to maximize production. Tomatillos should be staked or caged to keep the fruit off the ground. Since the plants often drop their fruit before it is fully ripe, provide a bed of straw under each plant to keep the fruit dry and away from the soil until you can collect it. The fruit will be sticky when it is removed from the inedible husk. Wash with mild soap and water before eating or processing the tomatillos.

Growing figs can be extremely rewarding—even beginning growers can learn how to grow a fig tree in a small yard or roomy planter with minimal fuss. With their large, lobed leaves and slender, woody branches, common figs (Ficus carica) have lots of ornamental appeal, but they’re mostly grown for their edible fruit, which turns purple, brown, or yellow when ripe and can be eaten fresh, cooked, or dried. These fast-growing trees thrive in warmer regions and are typically planted in late fall or early spring. However, growers in cooler climates can keep figs by growing hardy, dwarf trees in pots and overwintering them indoors. If you’ve ever dreamed of making luscious desserts with homegrown figs or are simply on the hunt for a unique fruit tree for your garden, you’re in luck. You’ll find all the tips you need to grow fig trees right here. How to Plant Fig Trees Figs are typically sold as either bare root trees or potted plants. Both types of trees are planted using a similar technique. However, if you’re transplanting a potted fig, you may need to tease apart or cut through circling roots before planting to encourage healthy growth. When to Plant While indoor figs can be planted in pots at any time of the year, outdoor trees should be planted in early spring or late fall, when the trees are dormant and the ground is workable. Selecting a Planting Site Figs can tolerate partial shade, but they’ll grow and fruit better in full sun. When you’re ready to plant, select a spot that receives at least 6 hours of direct light daily and has rich, well-draining soil, and plenty of space for figs to spread out. Planting figs in a south-facing location can be particularly beneficial in cooler areas. If you’re growing figs in pots, keep plants on a sunny patio or porch during summer, but move them indoors or into greenhouses before winter arrives. Spacing, Depth, and Support To plant outdoor figs, dig a hole slightly wider and deeper than your tree’s root ball and amend the soil with some compost. Gently wiggle potted figs out of their nursery containers, taking care not to damage their roots. Bare root trees will usually need to soak in water for a few hours before planting. Position the tree in the center of the planting hole. If you’re working with a bare root plant, heap soil into a low mound in the center of the hole to support the tree’s trunk. Then, evenly fan the roots out around the planting hole. Backfill the hole until it’s mostly filled, and then water well to help the soil settle in. If you’re growing multiple fig trees together, full-sized figs should be spaced at least 20 feet from each other and buildings. Dwarf trees can be planted a bit closer together. Fig Tree Care Most fig trees take about 3 to 5 years to fruit, although potted figs may fruit earlier. Providing figs with the right balance of light, nutrients, and water during this time is essential if you want trees to remain healthy and produce a large harvest of future fruit! Light Outdoor figs need 6 to 8 hours of direct light, while indoor figs can do well in sunny, south-facing windows. In low light homes, keep figs under a grow light for 8 to 12 hours a day. Soil Figs can tolerate a range of soils, but slightly acidic, well-draining, loamy soils with a pH of between 6.0 and 6.5 are ideal. Standard potting mixes will work for potted figs, while compost blended into planting holes can help outdoors figs thrive. Water Water container-grown and young fig trees regularly with about 1 inch of water per week. Established, outdoor trees may not need any additional water beyond rainfall. Temperature and Humidity Figs grow best in zones 8 and up, although cold hardy figs can be grown outdoors in zones 6 and 7 with winter protection. In colder areas, figs should be cultivated as container plants and moved indoors or into greenhouses in winter. Humidity is rarely an issue with these trees; however, indoor figs may benefit from the addition of a humidifier in homes with dry air. Fertilizer Fig trees are not heavy feeders and inground plants are usually content with an annual application of compost or balanced fertilizer in spring. If you add compost to your planting hole when transplanting, you typically won’t need to apply fertilizer until the following spring. Potted figs need more attention than inground plants and should be fertilized about once a month in spring and summer with a balanced fertilizer. Pollination Some figs need insect pollinators, but common figs are self-fertile and self-pollinating plants that don’t need insect pollination or other fig trees to fruit. Types of Fig Trees Growers can find a variety of edible fig trees, but it’s important to choose figs that are well-suited for your growing location. Dwarf figs are best for container gardens, while cold hardy figs are more likely to thrive in chilly regions. ‘Brown Turkey’: A versatile fig choice, ‘Brown Turkey’ can be grown in pots or inground gardens and it yields medium-sized, sweet fruits with reddish-brown skins. ‘Celeste’: Relatively cold and heat tolerant, ‘Celeste’ is disease resistant, and produces ultra-sweet fruit with purple skins. ‘Little Miss Figgy’: This dwarf fig only grows about 4 feet high, but it produces large harvests of medium-sized figs with excellent flavor. Harvesting Figs Figs are harvested in late summer to early fall when the sweet and juicy fruit develops its mature color and starts to soften. A tell-tale sign that figs are ready to pick is when the ripening figs droop on their branches. To harvest, grasp a ripe fig in one hand and the supporting tree branch in the other, and gently lift the fig away from the tree. Ripe figs should be easy to pick! Figs don’t last long after harvesting and they can only be kept in the fridge for about 2 to 3 days. For longer storage, try canning, drying, or freezing. How to Grow Fig Trees in Pots Potted and outdoor fig trees have similar care needs, although container-grown plants may need to be fertilized and watered more regularly. Mature trees need 15 to 20-gallon pots to grow, but younger plants can be kept in smaller containers. Be sure to select a pot with plenty of drainage holes, use a well-draining potting mix, and position your fig in a spot that receives lots of bright light. Pruning Pruning is generally not needed for fig trees, although you may want to shape young figs by clipping away wayward branches. After that, simply prune away damaged, weak, or broken stems when the trees are dormant in winter and thin out excess fruit as needed to keep branches from breaking. Propagating Fig Trees Figs can be propagated in several ways, but the easiest options are layering and rooting stem cuttings. Layering works best in warm areas where temperatures never dip below freezing. Simply anchor a low-growing fig branch to the ground with landscape staples so the base of the stem is buried in soil and at least 8 inch of stem and leaves are above the soil line. Allow the buried fig branch to develop roots, and then cut the branch from the parent plant. If you live in a colder area or simply prefer to propagate fig trees from prunings or stem cuttings, here’s how to start: Using sharp pruners, cut several healthy, 8 to 12-inch stem cuttings from the parent fig in spring when figs are still dormant but the danger of frost has passed. Each cutting should be about as wide as your pinky finger and the stem ends should be cut on a slant near a leaf node. Add sealant to the cut stem end to prevent disease and dip the end of the cutting in rooting hormone. Fill a 6-inch pot with potting mix and plant four cuttings per pot with the cut stem ends buried several inches deep. Cover the pot with clear plastic to boost humidity. Move the cuttings into bright, indirect light and water only when the soil feels dry. Once the cuttings produce significant new growth, transplant them into large pots or outdoors into your garden if the weather is mild. Overwintering In warm areas, outdoor figs need little winter care; however, in cooler locations, you may want to wrap fig trees in burlap and protect their roots with mulch. Container grown figs can be grown year-round indoors or in greenhouses, but they typically won’t fruit unless they’re subjected to a period of cold. For maximum fruiting, keep potted figs outdoors until a light frost arrives and the tree drops its leaves. Then move the bare fig tree into a cool, dark, and protected spot, such as a garage or basement, and water sparingly once a month until spring. Common Pests and Plant Diseases Protecting outdoor figs with fruit protection bags can prevent birds and other wildlife from nibbling on ripening fruit. Figs can sometimes develop diseases like fig leaf spot and rust, but minor pests like aphids, whiteflies, scale, and mealybugs are more common, especially in greenhouses.

No, that isn't a baby watermelon—meet the cucamelon. Also known as Mexican sour gherkins, cucamelon plants (Melothria scabra) are distantly related to cucumbers, and they bring something fun and unexpected to vegetable beds and container gardens. These climbing vines produce tiny, grape-sized fruit with mottled skins that resemble mini watermelons but taste like cucumbers with a sour, lemony twist. Cucamelons are fast-growing and naturally drought-resistant. They’re ready to harvest about 75 days after the seeds are planted in spring. If you’re looking for a pint-sized edible plant to grow in containers or you want to try a less common crop, cucamelons are always a fun choice. Heed these tips to grow bunches of them. How to Plant Cucamelons Cucamelons can grow as perennials in USDA zones 9 and 10, however, these tender perennials don’t handle winter weather well and they’re generally grown as annuals elsewhere. That said, cucamelons are small enough to keep in pots, so they can be overwintered indoors or in greenhouses if desired. When to Plant If you live in a region with a long growing season, you can directly sow cucamelon seeds outdoors after the danger of frost has past. But in cooler locations, it’s best to start cucamelon seeds indoors about 4 to 6 weeks before the last frost of spring. Selecting a Planting Site Cucamelons can grow in pots or garden beds that receive plenty of sun. For best results, choose a growing location with rich, well-draining soil and plenty of room for trellising or another support system. To boost harvest yields, consider growing cucamelons near flowering companion plants that attract pollinators, such as yarrow, calendula, borage, and dill. Spacing, Depth, and Support For proper growth, cucamelon seeds should be planted about ¼ to ½ inch deep in soil amended with a bit of compost. Cucamelons should be spaced about 12 inches apart. Once established, cucamelons spread vigorously, but they’re much more manageable with trellising. Trellising also allows you to grow cucamelons vertically for space savings and prevents common plant diseases like powdery mildew. Cattle panel trellises, sturdy tomato cages, or bamboo trellis towers all work well for cucamelons, but it’s best to install trellising at planting time to avoid disturbing tender plant leaves and stems later on. Cucamelon Plant Care Light Like most other food crops, cucamelons are full sun plants that need at least 6 to 8 hours of bright light daily. Plants grown in very hot regions can tolerate partial afternoon shade, while plants grown indoors will usually need supplemental lighting from grow lights left on for at least 12 hours a day. Soil Well-draining, loamy or sandy soil with a slightly acidic pH between 6.0 and 7.0 is ideal for cucamelons. Amending the soil with a bit of compost or aged manure before planting can give cucamelons a boost and reduce fertilizer needs. Water Regular watering is key if you want cucamelons to fruit well. These plants typically need about 1 inch of water per week, although plants grown in hot climates or containers may need to be watered more regularly. When watering, direct your hose at the soil line or use drip irrigation to keep plant leaves dry and prevent mildew. Add a thin layer of mulch around the base of your plants to reduce watering needs. Temperature and Humidity Cucamelons are frost-sensitive and they can be damaged by cold temperatures. Warm weather helps cucamelons grow faster and these plants are at their best when temperatures are between 70 and 85 degrees Fahrenheit. While cucamelons are typically not picky about humidity, high humidity conditions with minimal air flow can encourage powdery mildew. Keep plants well-pruned and follow proper spacing recommendations to reduce mildew problems. Fertilizer Adding compost to the soil before planting cucamelons can help plants grow better, but cucamelons will still need to be fertilized throughout the growing season. Follow the instructions on your fertilizer packaging and apply a balanced, organic fertilizer every few weeks until cucamelon plants begin to flower. Then, switch to a high-potassium fertilizer to support flowering and fruiting. Pollination Cucamelons are self-pollinating and produce both male and female blooms on a single vine. These plants are pollinated by wind and insects, but you can increase harvest yields by companion planting with flowers that attract pollinators. Just keep in mind that cucamelons grown indoors or in greenhouses will need to be hand pollinated! Harvesting Cucamelons Harvest season usually starts in July, or about 65 to 75 days after cucamelon seeds are planted, and plants can continue to fruit until the first frost of fall. It’s time to harvest cucamelons when they are about 1 inch long and have firm, bright green skin. Overly ripe cucamelons turn bitter and become soft quickly, so harvest often. To harvest, simply twist cucamelons off the vine with your fingers or clip them away with scissors or pruners. Support the plant vines when harvesting to avoid broken stems and leaves. Fresh cucamelons can be stored for about a week in the fridge in perforated plastic bags or containers. For longer term storage, try pickling, canning, or freezing your harvest. Freezing changes the texture of cucamelons, but frozen cucamelons are still good for cooking. How to Grow Cucamelons in Pots If you want to save space in your garden or grow cucamelons on a sunny porch or patio, you can keep cucamelon plants in plastic or terracotta pots and planters, or fabric grow bags. One advantage of growing cucamelons in containers is that you can move plants indoors if cold weather is in the forecast. Choose a growing container with drainage holes at least 12 inches wide by 12 inches deep. Fill the container with a rich, well-draining potting mix and add a small trellis to keep cucamelons vines from spreading too vigorously. You should water and fertilize container-grown cucamelons more regularly than plants grown in vegetable beds. Pruning Cucamelons usually don’t need much pruning, although you will want to clip away dead, damaged, or diseased leaves when you see them. Light pruning thins out leaves, boosts air flow, and reduces the chances of mildew. If you grow cucamelons in containers or your vines spread too quickly, pruning controls the growth and size of particularly vigorous vines. How to Grow Cucamelons From Seed Cucamelon seeds are usually started indoors about 4 to 6 weeks before the last frost date of spring. Sow seeds ¼ to ½ inch deep in pots filled with a quality seed starting mix, water well, and then place the pots under grow lights. Once cucamelons are a few inches tall and frost is no longer expected, harden off young plants for a week or two. Then transplant your cucamelons into pots or a vegetable garden and add a nearby trellis to support vines as they grow. Common Pests and Plant Diseases Compared to many other food crops, cucamelons are relatively resistant to pests and diseases. However, cucamelons can still develop issues like powdery mildew, aphids, slugs, and snails. Companion planting with fragrant herbs and flowers can reduce pest issues naturally, while powdery mildew can be prevented by watering plants at their roots and using pruning and trellising to increase air flow around plant leaves.

When to pick banana peppers depends on the varieties you’re growing, your own personal tastes, and how you intend to use your harvest. It's best to pick banana peppers a bit on the earlier side after they surpass 4 inches and turn pale yellow. But, if you enjoy things on the spicy side, you can let banana peppers mature a bit longer and harvest them when their skin is bright red—their flesh is then packed with heat. Use the tips below to harvest banana peppers at different times for a sweet or spicy pepper harvest that’s ideal for pickling, canning, or fresh eating. When to Harvest Banana Peppers Most banana peppers will be ready to pick in about 60 to 70 days. However, harvesting timelines can vary slightly depending on the peppers you’re growing. It’s always a good idea to consult seed packets or plant labels for specific harvesting guidelines. Like other pepper varieties, banana peppers can be harvested at different times to achieve different flavors. You can harvest them on the greener side, although they don’t have the best flavor. Most often, banana peppers are picked when they turn yellow (hence the name), which yields crunchy and sweet peppers that are ideal for pickling and canning. 5 Signs Your Banana Peppers Are Ready to Pick Banana peppers can mature at different rates, depending on the sunlight they receive, the local temperature, weather patterns, and other factors. But if your peppers display these signs of ripeness, it’s time to start harvesting. They develop their mature color. Although banana peppers can be harvested when they’re still green, they'll have the sweetest flavor and best crunch when they turn pale yellow. If you prefer spicier peppers, you can allow your peppers to ripen longer until they turn orange or red. They reach a usable size. Banana peppers taste best if you wait until they are between 4 and 8” long. If frost is on the forecast and you need to harvest earlier than intended, they can continue to ripen on your counter. Their skin is smooth and crisp. Yellow banana peppers have the best crunch, while fully ripened orange or red peppers have softer flesh. However, if peppers have gotten overly soft or wrinkled, they’re past their prime and it’s time to compost them. They’re easy to pick. Ripe banana peppers should be easy to remove from the plant by gently twisting their stems. If the peppers are still firmly attached to their branches, they may need more time to grow. The seed packets say it’s time to harvest. Seed packets and plant labels can provide you with helpful details about when specific banana pepper varieties will be ready to harvest.

Watermelon is a popular melon that can be grown in any garden, as long as you have adequate space and sunlight. One tricky aspect of growing watermelon is knowing when the mature melons are ripe enough. It's important to pick them at the peak of ripeness because, like other melons, they don't continue to ripen off the vine. We're sharing 10 telltale signs to look out for when your watermelon is all ripe and ready to harvest. Weight If the watermelon feels dense and heavy for its size, this can be a good indicator of ripeness. The heavier the melon, the more juice has formed inside. But if you're not sure how heavy a watermelon should be, find two melons of approximately the same size and weigh both in your hands. You can practice this technique in the grocery store, too, to get a feel for how dense and heavy a ripe melon should feel. The Stem Is Mostly Brown If the watermelon stem has turned brown or is more brown than green in color, this is also a potential sign of ripeness. This indicates more energy from the vine has gone into the melon. Dried Out Tendrils The tendril is the curly section of the stem opposite where the watermelon is attached to the vine. Once the tendril turns brown and dry, the watermelon is ready to harvest The Ground Spot Is Yellow The ground spot (also sometimes called the "field spot" or the "belly spot") is usually a small round area on the watermelon where it has been lying in contact with the ground. Once this spot turns yellow, it's a sign the melon has ripened while still on the vine. Don't pick the melon if this spot is still white. If your watermelon doesn't have a ground spot, use some of the other signs to determine its ripeness. Note: this method won't work for miniature watermelons that are grown vertically on a fence or trellis. Smooth But Dull Skin Surface The surface of the watermelon skin should be dull and not shiny. A shiny rind or skin is still too immature to be harvested. The skin should also be free of cuts or bruises. Blossom End Firmness The blossom end of the watermelon is the one opposite the stem. Press gently on this spot; if it's mushy, the melon is overripe. If it's solid, the melon is underripe. If it presses in slightly, the melon is ripe for harvest. Smell A ripe watermelon will have a sweet but not overpowering smell when you sniff the blossom end. If the smell is overly sweet, rich, or cloying, the melon may be overripe. Vibrant Color Your watermelon may have any number of color characteristics depending on the variety; some melons are solid color and some have stripes. Look for a photo online of the variety to get a sense of how deeply colored a ripe one is (often a seed packet will have a photo of a ripe melon also). Wait until the melon reaches a vibrant color before harvesting. Even a watermelon that tends to be a paler green will reach a richer color as it gets ripe, so this is a sign along with the others listed to help you determine ripeness. Uniformity of Shape Different varieties of watermelon have different shapes: some are round, while some or more oval. You want to aim for a uniform shape with no unusual lumps or flat spots. Hollow Interior Sound Thump gently on the surface of the watermelon with your knuckles. A hollow, crisp, and resonating sound is a sign the watermelon is ripe. You will also feel a slight vibration. If the sound is dull and not resonant, the melon is not ready for harvest yet. How to Harvest When you've determined your watermelon is ripe enough to harvest, follow these techniques to do it properly. Cut It Off Cut the melon from the vine with a sharp knife or pruning shears. The watermelon may not pull loose on its own. Clean It Down Gently clean the melon with a soft cloth and mildly soapy water and rinse thoroughly. This is to remove any potentially harmful bacteria (that might be in the soil or left behind by garden wildlife) that might transfer from the skin into the fruit when you carve into it. Store Properly Store your watermelon at a temperature of between 50-60F. If stored at temperatures above 75F, the shelf life is only about 5 days. It's best to eat your watermelon as soon as possible after picking it. If you have any leftover cut portions, place them in the refrigerator.

Raspberries (Rubus idaeus), as thorny and imposing as they may be, are responsible for producing soft, red jewels of fruit. They hail from the same genus as blackberries, and while their fruits take on similar shapes and textures, there are a few differences. Growing raspberry bushes at home is completely possible. Many varieties cross a range of USDA zones, making it fairly easy to find a type that will thrive in your location. If there's a sunny patch in your garden that's missing some kind of plant, it's worth considering raspberries—they take a little while to fruit but will continue to blossom and produce year after year with the right care. How to Plant Raspberries Raspberry canes can really stand out in a garden with their bright green bushy leaves, white flowers, and red fruits. If visions of overgrown, thorny bushes are popping up in your head, don't fret—there are many ways to manage and maintain healthy raspberries. When to Plant Raspberries should be planted in early spring. It's possible to start planting towards the end of fall if you're in an area that doesn't get extreme winters. To find the perfect time for planting, find out the last frost date in your zone and plant after that has passed. Selecting a Planting Site Choose the sunniest area of your garden, even if it's prone to partial shade. Raspberries can still grow in these conditions, just ensure the bushes have enough space for their canes and root system to spread out. There should also be room for adding stakes or trellises to support the plant as it grows. Spacing, Depth, and Support You'll want to leave at least 18 inches between each cane you plant or seed you sow. Raspberries' root systems are on the shallower end, so you'll only need to push seeds in about 2 to 3 inches deep. These plants also need support for them to stretch horizontally and vertically. Trellises and stakes are suitable for smaller gardens—but for a larger row of raspberry plants, installing wooden posts into the ground with wire between is best. Want more gardening tips? Sign up for our free gardening newsletter for our best-growing tips, troubleshooting hacks, and more! Raspberry Bush Care These plants have a few requirements: sunlight, water, soil, and pollination are all key components to nurture a raspberry plant and help it thrive. They appreciate slightly acidic soil, plenty of light, and need pollinators around for their fruit to form properly and produce a sizable yield. While it may seem like a hefty job, they're relatively low-maintenance. Light It's best to place raspberries in an area that gets full sun. Optimal conditions provide raspberries with 6 to 8 hours of sunlight each day. Soil Raspberries appreciate richer soils, so amend yours by adding compost and manure. Loam soil is also great. The goal is to offer the plants a foundation that's nutrient-dense but drains well, too. Sulfur and lime1 are helpful additives for influencing the pH of your soil if it's not right for your raspberry bush. Sulfur can make it more acidic, whereas lime will increase the alkalinity. Water Raspberries need roughly an inch of water per week, but it's best to provide them with regular watering rather than one weekly deep soak. Avoid getting the fruit and leaves wet, as this can lead to disease and the fruit is prone to mold. For ease, drip irrigation set-ups are often used. With a little mindfulness of how you water them and a well-draining soil, they should be just fine. Temperature and Humidity Raspberries do completely fine in areas that remain cool throughout the year. Colder temperatures aren't detrimental to raspberries, and they usually prefer milder weather. However, there are some varieties that have been cultivated to handle hot summers, too. Fertilizer Fertilizer is a helpful way of supporting healthy growth in your raspberry plants. A slow-releasing fertilizer with nitrogen is recommended, and it's best to provide raspberries with fertilizer before the sun is high in the sky or after it has gone down. The best time to fertilize them is in early spring (about two weeks after planting) before major growth and fruit production occurs. Pollination Raspberries are self-pollinators, which makes it easier on gardeners in terms of care. Honeybees are the primary insect that helps with this process, which not only helps your raspberry bushes but boosts the biodiversity in your garden, too. Pollination is essential for the proper formation of a raspberry. Without it, the drupelets won't be healthy or fully formed enough to create a whole berry. Types of Raspberry Plants 'Amity': This variety produces large and sweet bright red fruits. It's a fall-bearing variety and extremely hardy when it comes to diseases and winters. 'Boyne': Mildly sweet and a floricane-variety, Boyne raspberries are fine for eating but ideal for making jams, jellies, chutneys, and other preserves. 'Heritage': This variety can handle hot summers and produces a healthy crop. They're primocane berries and are an easy type to grow. 'Willamette': For plenty of fruit that lasts, you can lean on the old and reliable Willamette variety, named after the location where it was cultivated in Oregon. 'Nova': This floricane-bearing berry is capable of adapting to different climates. It produces good yields and is slightly tart. Primocane-Bearing Raspberries vs. Floricane-Bearing Raspberries There are two types of canes within raspberry bushes: primocane-bearing and floricane-bearing. It can seem confusing at first, but you'll understand the difference in no time, which will help with harvesting, pruning, and overwintering your raspberry bushes. Harvesting Raspberries One of the fantastic things about this plant is how easily its fruit comes off the cane—when it's ready, that is. Using your thumb and forefinger, slightly tug or twist, and the berry should slide right off. You can wear gloves to prevent irritation from thorns when moving the canes. You'll know a raspberry is ripe when it's no longer green and is fully saturated. The color will depend on the variety, but it will typically be a bright, rosy red, golden yellow, or deep purply red. Green to greenish-pink berries indicate that they're still growing—as is any resistance when you tug at the berry—and it's better to leave these to continue to ripen. How to Grow Raspberries in Pots Raspberries are usually grown in the ground or raised beds, but it's possible to plant them in pots. Containers should be large enough to hold the bush and account for its growth and have drainage holes to prevent root rot. The best way to ensure this is by selecting smaller varieties that don't tend to spread as much as others. These include Malling Jewel, Ruby Beauty, Yummy Dwarf, Zeva, September, Malling Promise, and Autumn Treasure. Give them the same care as you usually would—plenty of sun and ample water—but aim to put your bushes in a spot that protects them from heavy winds. Pruning Pruning and cutting back raspberries is a vital part of ensuring they'll grow back and serve as a long-lasting perennial. Do an initial pruning early in spring to get rid of dead canes or anything that's diseased or suffocating other healthy growth. Propagating Raspberries The easiest way to propagate raspberries is through primocanes, also known as suckers. Suckers are fresh raspberry plants that pop up near your bush—raspberry canes are quick growers after all. To propagate from suckers: Wear gloves to protect your hands from prickly canes and stems. In early spring, select a few suckers that are around six inches tall and separate from your main bush. Carefully pull out the sucker from the soil. If necessary, you may need to dig around the plant to loosen the roots. The root system should be small enough that it won't put up too much of a fight. You can divide the sucker root systems if they're larger and then transplant them into your intended area. To propagate raspberries from cane cuttings: Use gloves to protect your hands, then with a pair of sharp and clean secateurs or shears, cut off a section of cane that's 6 or 7 inches tall. You can use a rooting hormone to support growth, but it's not essential. Push the end into your new soil patch, leaving about half to 1/3 of the cane sticking out of the dirt. The can should form its root system and begin to grow as its own bush. Depending on the type, it can take a year or two for fruiting to happen. Overwintering Raspberries are dormant in the winter and will not require as much water. Ensure you prune your plants back, which directs energy to their root systems. Don't worry too much, as their canes will return in the spring. Mulch around the soil can help with maintaining a more consistent temperature. For the most part, raspberry bushes tend to do okay and are built for overwintering. Raspberries in containers can be moved into a different area of your garden that gets shelter from wind and any heavy rain or snow. Common Pests and Plant Diseases Raspberries are appealing not just to gardeners, but quite a variety of pests, too. Japanese beetles, sap beetles, aphids, spider mites, spotted wing drosophila, and leafhoppers are a few of the bugs that enjoy chomping away. Small mammals also enjoy eating parts of the raspberry plant, including squirrels, chipmunks, rabbits, and deer. Pest nets, oils, and repellant soaps and solutions can all be beneficial. As for diseases, raspberries are typically afflicted by spur blight, powdery mildew, botrytis fruit rot, cane blights, root rot, late leaf rust, and verticillium wilt. Some varieties of raspberries are more susceptible than others to particular diseases. There are multiple ways to handle these problems, through pruning and fungicidal sprays.

Raspberries are gems in the garden, and to help them thrive, pay attention to what you plant nearby—by companion planting for raspberries, you might just get a bigger harvest. Whether you are planning to grow wild raspberries or cultivated varieties, you want the plants to thrive and produce abundant fruit. One way to help the plants along is to pay attention to what crops and plants are located near the raspberry bushes. Learn more about what plants are great companions to your rows of raspberry canes and which plants should never come near them. 11 Good Companion Plants for Raspberries Raspberries prefer full sunlight and well-drained, sandy loam soils rich in organic matter so it is important to select companion plants that have the same requirements. Since raspberries are usually trellised, there is plenty of room at the bottom of the canes for companion plants. Garlic: The pungent odor repels Japanese beetles that can harm the raspberry fruit and leaves. Leeks, Onions, and Chives: All are members of the Allium family with odors that repel harmful insects and deer. Marigolds: Effecting in controlling certain nematodes, microscopic worms that feed on plants. Lavender: Attracts bees and butterflies for pollination. Nasturtiums: Attracts pollinators and repels whiteflies, squash bugs, and aphids. Yarrow: Repels harlequin beetles that feed on raspberry plants. Chamomile: Attracts pollinators. Mint: Repels aphids. Turnips: Attract the harlequin beetle to prevent it from targeting the raspberries. Spring Cover Crops: In the early spring, sow a cover crop such as buckwheat, rye, millet, or oats to improve the organic matter in the soil and to kill out perennial weeds. The crop should be turned into the soil before it goes to seed. Late Summer Cover Crop: Sow a cover crop like spring oats just after the harvest of the raspberries is complete. The oats aid in hardening off the raspberry plants for winter by absorbing excess water and nutrients in the soil, reducing soil erosion, and smothering weed growth. What Not to Plant Near Raspberries Just as some plants can be beneficial to the growth and fruit production of raspberries, others can transmit plant and soil diseases that can harm raspberries. Tomatoes: A member of the nightshade family, tomatoes can carry verticillium root rot that can affect raspberries. If there have been no tomatoes in the soil near the plants for four years, the area is safe for planting. Blueberries: Blueberries require acidic soil to thrive while raspberries only need mildly acidic soil. Planting both fruits together will allow only one to thrive. Potatoes: Another nightshade, potatoes can spread the verticillium virus to raspberries. Peppers: Avoid planting raspberries in an area that has grown peppers until four years have passed. Strawberries: Strawberries are susceptible to the same root-rotting diseases as raspberries. Land that has been planted with strawberries for four years or more can build up a population of root-rotting diseases and should not be used when planting raspberries. Eggplant: Another nightshade spreader of verticillium root rot, keep them away from raspberries. Wild and Cultivated Raspberries: If planting cultivated raspberry varieties, destroy all wild raspberries within 600 feet of the site to reduce the possibility of spreading viruses. Boysenberries, Blackberries, and Gooseberries: Avoid planting raspberries near similar bramble fruits to prevent the transfer of soil-borne fungal diseases. What Is Companion Planting? Companion planting has been done for centuries and is the practice of growing different plants together for mutual benefit.1 A classic example is planting "the three sisters" or corn, beans, and squash together. The corn supplies a support system for the climbing bean vines, the beans provide nitrogen to fertilize the soil and stabilize the tall corn during heavy winds, and the large leaves of squash plants shade the ground to help retain soil moisture and prevent weeds. Unlike other gardening areas, much information about companion gardening is not always based on hard scientific facts, but more on observations and garden lore found in farmers’ almanacs. However, some studies confirm the benefits of separating certain crops from others to prevent soil diseases and nutrient depletion.

Rhubarb is the most flavorful when the leaf stalks are young and tender, about 7 to 14 inches long, soon after the leaf unfurls—this is the best time to harvest it. Usually, this happens between May and July when growing this as a spring crop. To prevent damaging the perennial plant and diminishing next year's harvest, grasp each leafstalk near the base and pull it slightly to one side. Using a knife to cut the stems can leave an entry point for crown rot diseases. Follow our guidelines for a bountiful rhubarb harvest. When to Harvest Rhubarb Rhubarb is a cool-season, hardy perennial that goes dormant in the winter with leaf stalks that emerge in early spring. The best time to harvest the pink or red leaf stalks with a unique tart and tangy flavor is when they are young and tender. As the stalks grow large, the texture becomes more stringy. As a rule of thumb, the deeper the red color, the more flavorful the stalks will be. Depending on the rhubarb variety, the leaf stalks may be only 12 inches long, or as long as two feet. Harvest season can begin as early as mid-March in warmer growing zones and continue through the end of June in cooler climates. How to Harvest Rhubarb When the leaf stalks have grown to their expected height and turned pink or red, it's time to harvest them. Harvest each stalk individually by grasping the stalk firmly near the base of the plant and pulling it to one side with a quick twist. The stalk will be released from the plant. Use a knife or garden shears to remove the leaves. Place the stalks in one basket and the leaves in another. While the leaves should not be eaten, they can be safely added to the compost pile. Do not use a knife or garden shears to cut the stalks from the plant1, as the knife can transplant diseases or pests from plant to plant. The open wound left by cutting the stalk can also invite diseases like crown rot into the plant. Have a couple of baskets or buckets on hand when harvesting rhubarb. The leaves should be trimmed from the stalk as soon as possible, as leaving them on will speed up the wilting of the stalks. How to Store Harvested Rhubarb If you plan to use the harvested rhubarb with a couple of hours, wash away any garden soil with fresh water and trim the ends. Cut into smaller pieces to stew, poach, roast, or purée. If you don't plan to use it immediately, the freshly harvested stalks can be kept in the refrigerator, unwashed, and wrapped tightly in plastic, for up to three weeks. Rhubarb can also be canned or frozen for use in future recipes. How to Know When Rhubarb Is Done Producing You will notice that the rhubarb plant will stop or slow down production of new growth as the weather warms. Stop removing leaf stalks when this happens to keep the plant healthy and vigorous. Allow the plant to keep all the remaining stalks and leaves to build energy reserves for next year. If the plant bolts or a seed stalk emerges from the plant, cut it off. If the plant flowers and sets seed, the harvest for next year will be much smaller.

Whether you start tomato plants from seeds or purchase tomato seedlings from the garden center, it's important to know how and when to transplant the seedlings into the garden. Tomatoes are ready for prime time and can be transplanted as soon as the last frost has passed. But since they love the warm weather, hold off on planting until it is comfortably 60-70 degrees F outside. In the northern U.S., this is typically mid-May, and in the southern U.S., this could be much sooner, like late March to early April. Following the guidelines of your USDA hardiness zone and the last expected frost in your area, you can successfully transplant tomato seedlings into the garden or patio containers to harvest a bountiful tomato crop. We're sharing more on transplanting tomato seedlings and planting tomatoes for a great harvest below. When to Transplant Tomato Seedlings First thing first: if you start your tomato plants from seeds, they should be moved from the seed-starting tray to a larger pot before going into the garden. This allows the root system to have room to develop. It's time to transport them into bigger pots once they have three or more sets of leaves and are three to four inches tall.1 Ideally, do this around four weeks before it is time to transplant the seedlings into the garden or an outside container. Now for what we all want to know: when can these beauties land in the garden? Larger tomato seedlings should be transplanted once the last chance of frost has passed and the weather during the day sits comfortably at 65-70 degrees F. This varies greatly depending on the USDA hardiness zone in your growing area, so be sure to check the hardiness map to see where your area falls. How to Transplant Tomato Seedlings to Pots When your tomato seedlings reach about three inches tall and have three sets of leaves, it's time to transplant the seedlings from the seed-starting tray to individual pots. Choose the right container. It should be at least four inches deep with sufficient drainage holes so the roots will not become waterlogged. The containers can be biodegradable pots that can be planted directly into the garden, recycled flower pots, or even Styrofoam coffee cups. Fill the containers with a potting mix. Do not use garden soil, it is too heavy for tender roots to develop. Moisten the mixture and let the pots sit for several hours. Water the tomato seedlings well a few hours before you transplant them to the larger pot to help prevent the seedlings from drying out during the process and help keep the seed-starting mix clinging to the delicate roots. Take your tomato seedlings out of the seed starting tray. Push the seedling out of the tray by pushing up the soil, root ball, and plant from the bottom of the tray—never pull the plant out of the tray by the stem. Place the seedlings in the new containers and add the potting mixture. Bury about two-thirds of the stem. All along the stem are tiny air roots that will develop and strengthen the plant. Lightly tamp down the added potting mixture. The top three sets of leaves should be above the top level of the mix. If there are more sets of leaves, remove them before burying the plant. Fertilize the newly repotted seedlings. Follow the label of a balanced liquid fertilizer to mix a watering solution, but dilute that solution by 50 percent. Water the newly transplanted seedlings thoroughly. Watch the moisture levels in the containers and repeat the diluted fertilization every two weeks until the plants are ready to go in the garden or outside container. Should You Harden Off Tomato Transplants? When daytime temperatures are mild and the plants have become established in the container, about two weeks after transplanting the seedlings into the larger pots, they should be acclimated to outdoor conditions—this is called hardening off. Start the process by putting the pots outside away from direct sunlight for a couple of hours each day. Gradually increase the amount of time and exposure to sunlight. Now that the plants are exposed to more light, drying winds, and higher temperatures, they will require more water. As the seedlings grow, they may need support, especially if the tomato plant is an indeterminate variety. Add several sticks around the edge of the pot to help support the plant. Do not force a stick into the soil at the base of the main stem because it can damage the roots. How to Plant Tomato Seedlings in the Garden When the tomato plants are about 10 to 12 inches tall and the last chance of frost has passed in your growing zone, it's time to plant the tomato seedlings in the garden or patio container. Before planting, make sure your garden soil is tilled to get rid of weeds, and work in some compost to create a loose planting bed. Select a planting site for the tomato plants that will receive full sun for at least six to eight hours daily. Remove the tomato seedling from the pot. Do this by pushing it up from the bottom. If the seedling is in a peat pot, cut slits in the side of the pot to help newly forming roots escape. Fill the bottom of the hole with loose garden soil and place the plant in. Fill the hole until only one-third of the tomato plant is above the soil line. The buried stem will develop more roots that produce a vigorous plant. Slope the soil slightly away from the center stem so water will not collect at the base of the plant and lead to waterlogged roots. Add support. A tomato cage or stakes can be added easily at this stage to support the tomato as it grows. Water the transplant well and check moisture level daily. If the transplant looks droopy in the mornings, it needs water. Gradually, the plant will adapt to conditions and should only need water once a week. Don't forget to fertilize. Fertilize the transplant with a balanced all-purpose plant food until the plant begins to flower and set tomatoes. Transplanting Tomatoes Into Containers For container-grown tomatoes, use a good potting mix and a container that is at least 8 inches deep, 12 to 16 inches in diameter, and has plenty of drainage holes. Place a couple of inches of potting mix in the bottom of the container and remove the tomato seedling from the small pot. Place the plant in the larger container with only one-third of the plant above the edge of the container. Fill in around the plant with potting mix and water well.

Blueberry plants are fairly simple to grow, making them a great choice for both inexperienced and avid gardeners. However, to produce the biggest and juiciest blueberries, fertilizing with the right products at the right time is crucial. Experts recommend fertilizing blueberry plants in early spring, and sometimes again in early summer and early fall, with an acidic, slow-release fertilizer. The appropriate fertilizer for blueberry plants will supply essential nutrients like nitrogen and maintain the correct soil pH. Conditions for Growing Blueberries Blueberry plants are relatively easy to grow in pots or directly in the ground and are fairly tolerant of both hot and cold weather. Nevertheless, blueberries do best in areas that are protected from high winds and receive six to eight hours of full sun. Your soil should be acidic, well-draining, and rich in organic matter, with a pH of 4.0 to 5.5. When to Fertilize Blueberry Plants To help your blueberries access the right amount of nutrients at the right times, you should fertilize at least once a season and up to three times, based on the soil pH and plant's health. While the exact timing is flexible, experts suggest fertilizing blueberries before the plants begin producing foliage or at the first signs of foliage (generally in the early spring). Always check your the recommended application rates and timing for your specific fertilizer before adding it to your blueberry plants. Some gardeners also fertilize blueberries in early summer, roughly six weeks later, as well as early fall, roughly one month before the first frost. However, the amount of fertilizer your blueberries require, ultimately depends on two factors: the soil pH and available nitrogen. If you notice pale leaves or minimal growth on your blueberry plants, test the soil pH to see if it's time to fertilize. How to Fertilize Blueberries You can choose a water-soluble fertilizer for your blueberry plants, but many avid gardeners recommend an acidic, slow-release fertilizer, which comes in the form of small granules. Their solid composition allows for a gradual application of nutrients over time, which helps promote the long-term health of your blueberry plants. Sprinkle your fertilizer granules evenly around the base of the plant and outward, as far away from the plant's main stem as its branches and leaves. Blueberry plants have fairly shallow roots, so there's no need to rake or turn over the soil after applying your fertilizer. In fact, you should avoid disturbing the soil, since doing so could inadvertently damage the plant's roots. Once you've applied the fertilizer, some gardeners like to add a thin layer (no more than two inches) of mulch to help insulate the plant's roots. If you choose to apply a layer of mulch, we recommend a simple option like wood chips or even dried, shredded leaves. The Best Fertilizers for Blueberries The best fertilizer for your blueberry plants should accomplish two primary goals: add nitrogen and acidify the soil. As is the case with many fruit plants, nitrogen is essential to help blueberries grow plump and juicy. Nitrogen helps every part of a blueberry plant thrive, from the depth of the roots to the color of the leaves. An ammonium sulfate or elemental sulfur fertilizer can both provide nitrogen gradually and maintain a healthy soil pH. If you'd like to solely apply nutrients, purchase an organic granular fruit fertilizer to feed your plant. Blueberry plants will generally thrive with any fertilizer designed for acid-loving plants like azaleas and rhododendrons. Be sure to test your soil pH before adding fertilizer to assess the nutrients already present in your garden and determine which is the appropriate fertilizer for your plants.

Imagine growing juicy strawberries in your home so you can always have fresh fruit instead of relying on what's sold at the grocery store. It's possible to grow this perennial evergreen plant indoors—even if you have limited space—when you choose the right type of strawberry varietal, container, lighting, and soil mix that will make your harvest a success. Another benefit of growing strawberries indoors is that the fruit is protected from insects and birds that love to eat the ripe berries, leaving more treats for you and your family. Get started to learn how to grow strawberries indoors using our guide. Can You Grow Strawberries Indoors? You can grow strawberry plants indoors and start them from seed at any time of the year or purchase mature plants from a garden center that produces fruit quickly. All you need is a sunny spot or grow lights and a pot. Day-neutral (plants that grow regardless of the length of the day) and everbearing cultivars are the best to use because they fruit readily in their first year, making them easy to grow indoors. Consider these cultivars: Albion: This day-neutral strawberry produces delicious, medium-sized, firm fruit and is a strong, compact plant with sturdy dark green leaves. Cabrillo: The day-neutral overbearing berry produces large, uniform sweet/sour strawberries with a higher yield than Albion. Seascape: The day-neutral strawberry, Seascape, will flower and fruit all season. The berries are large, prolific, and have good flavor when they are ripened on the plant. Ozark Beauty: This overbearing, large plant reaches 12 inches tall and produces large fruit. Alpine: These everbearing strawberries are one of the few types of indoor strawberries that don't mind being grown close together and they may require only four hours of sun while growing indoors. How to Grow Strawberries Indoors Sunlight Strawberries require full sun (at least six hours daily of bright light) to thrive and produce fruit.1 You can substitute grow lights for sunlight, especially when seed starting. Temperature and Humidity Daytime temperatures should be between 68 °F and 75 °F. Lower temperatures at night help produce high-quality fruit. Keep humidity low to prevent powdery mildew from forming but for a few nights a week, increase the humidity to avoid tipburn.2 Watering Strawberries like moist soil, but they should never be waterlogged. The most common problem is overwatering, which causes root rot and powdery mildew. Water strawberry plants about once a week or when the top inch of soil is dry. Water in the morning or afternoon and from the bottom so the leaves stay dry. It's also best to use filtered or non-chlorinated water. Air Circulation Strawberries like to have plenty of air circulation. If they are planted too closely together, they may develop mold problems. Fertilizer Feed strawberries every three to four weeks with a balanced liquid fertilizer. Once the fruit-producing cycle is complete, apply a balanced fertilizer as the plants begin forming new buds within the crown that will become the next crop. Pruning and Maintenance Strawberries do not require pruning but you can remove dead leaves from the base of the plant. Do not damage the crown or center of the plant. Pollination Since there are no bees indoors to help with pollination, you'll get the most fruit if you hand-pollinate the plants. Here's how: Use a small, clean paintbrush or a cotton swab. Gently agitate the pollen from the outer ring of the flower’s center to the inner ring of the same flower. Or, two flowers can be rubbed together to transfer the pollen. Container and Size Containers for indoor strawberries can be plastic, glazed pottery, or unglazed terra-cotta. They should have good drainage holes but do not need to be very deep because strawberry roots are shallow. A 12-inch diameter pot fits three plants or a 6- to 8-inch diameter pot fits a single plant. Potting Soil and Drainage Use an indoor houseplant potting mix of mainly peat moss or coconut coir with added perlite to make a loose, loamy soil with good drainage to keep your strawberries happy inside. Potting and Repotting Strawberries Start with fresh seed, transplanted runners, or new seedlings. Indoor strawberry seeds can be planted at any time of the year. However, seedlings or mature plants are easiest to find in the early spring. Some strawberry plants produce runners or baby plants that can be removed from the mother plant and potted in a new container but you may not see an abundance of runners in day-neutral strawberries. If you have runners, these transplants should produce fruit in five to six weeks. Although strawberries are perennials, they should be replaced after two or three years with fresh plants as their ability to produce fruit will dwindle. Harvesting Indoor Strawberries Harvest your indoor strawberries as soon as they ripen or when the berries are uniformly red. Pick them, keeping the cap and stem attached to stay fresh and firm. Everbearing strawberries will produce two major crops while day-neutral cultivars produce a handful of berries every few weeks.

How much cold can tomatoes tolerate? Tomatoes are notoriously cold-sensitive, so it helps to know what to do with the plants when temperatures drop. Your tomato plants may still have unripened or partially ripened fruit on them when the thermometer plummets to the freezing mark. Learn how to protect your tomato plants when the cold weather moves in. Watch for Signs of Cold Tomatoes Signs of cold damage on tomatoes, especially young plants, are not always visible. Here are signs to look for if you think your tomatoes are too cold: Light tan or gray spots appear on the leaves of young plants in the spring. A healthy plant can outgrow any damage from a brief cold snap. Any darkening of the leaf or stem tissue will later wilt and turn brown. The leaves are curling. Signs of cold damage that show up on the plants later include: A damaged plant will have poorly set fruit. Plant growth will look stunted. Large-fruited tomato varieties will have deep crevices or holes and scarring in the blossom end (catfacing). A spring cold snap can result in distorted, malformed tomatoes when they are just ripening. Dry, brown scars that look like zippers running from the stem to the blossom end of the tomatoes indicate damage. Damaged tomatoes ripen unevenly.1 Start Tomato Seeds at the Right Time Prevent cold damage by starting your tomato plants from seed indoors at the right time. If you start the seeds too early it will still be too cold to move them outdoors. It's best to start tomatoes from seeds six to eight weeks before your area’s last projected frost date. Don’t Expose Young Plants to Cold Temperatures below 60°F can subject highly cold-sensitive tomato seedlings to chilling injury. The damage won't be noticeable right away but the plants will experience stunted growth, poor flowering and fruit set, and catfacing. Wait to plant the tomatoes until nighttime temperatures remain consistently above 60 degrees Fahrenheit. Take your time hardening off the plants before planting them outdoors in your garden or containers. Select Early- or Mid-Season Tomatoes Choose cold-tolerant tomato varieties bred to set fruit in cooler temperatures below 55 degrees Fahrenheit. These varieties typically also mature earlier. Early-season varieties mature in 52 to 70 days and mid-season tomatoes in around 70 to 80 days. There are many different varieties, both hybrid tomatoes and heirloom tomatoes. Popular varieties include Early Girl (52 days) and Better Boy (75 days). Ripen Green Tomatoes Indoors If the weather forecast calls for frost, don't cover the plant. Instead, pick all unripe tomatoes from your plants and ripen them indoors. How to Protect Tomatoes on Cold Nights If there are still green or semi-ripe tomatoes on your plants around the time of your first average fall frost, keep an eye on the weather and consider these two ways to cover and protect your plants. Bubble Wrap If your plants are growing in tomato cages, protect them by wrapping bubble wrap around the entire cage, including the top, and use duct tape to secure it. It's a good time to prune the plant and remove excess foliage before wrapping it up. Remove the bubble wrap the next morning or you run the risk of excessive heat build-up under the plastic that will cook the plant. Sheets and Blankets You can also cover the plants with old sheets or light blankets held in place with sturdy stakes. Loosely tie a strong string around the plant to secure the cover from blowing away. Promptly remove the cover in the morning.

Moderate in spice and highly popular for cooks, Anaheim peppers (Capsicum annuum ‘Anaheim’), also known as Anaheim chilies, are a beginner-friendly pepper plant to add to your garden. Hotter than a bell pepper but milder than a jalapeno, many gardeners find these peppers to be the perfect blend and the ideal option for growing year after year. These plants can be grown as perennials, with one seed producing fruit for up to 3 years. With the right amount of sunlight and watering habits, learn how to grow your own Anaheim pepper plants and produce plenty of delicious fruit by late summer. Anaheim Pepper Care Because Anaheim peppers have the potential to be perennial plants, growing up to three years in a row on a single seed, many choose to plant in containers to allow for movement of the plant to sunnier spots throughout the year and the ability to move indoors during cold or rough weather. Plant each seed or seedling about 20 inches apart so they have proper room to grow and spread, though they don't need quite as much space as some other nightshades, like larger tomato varieties. However, the more room you give them, the more likely they will produce heartily for years without running out of space. Individual peppers should reach maturity and be harvested at around 80 days, though you can pick earlier when they're immature and green for a milder spice and sweeter taste. If you pick them when red and fully mature, the pepper still provides a generally mild spice, ranking at 500-1000 Scoville. Light Plant Anaheim peppers where they will receive the most sunlight, or plant in a container so you can move them to receive more sun. These light-loving plants should receive 6 to 8 hours of direct sun per day to stay healthy and produce the most fruit. Soil Anaheim peppers thrive best in sandy loam soil. If you can do a test, a pH of 7 to 8.5 is ideal and will yield the healthiest plants. The soil should be rich in organic material, so amending it with compost or manure is beneficial.1 Water Anaheim peppers require a careful balance when it comes to watering. They need frequent watering, especially during hot, dry spells in the summer. However, they're also very susceptible to root rot, so avoid overwatering. Do not water to the point of soaked soil. These plants will do best if given 1-2 inches of water per week. Water around the soil and base of the plant, rather than right onto the leaves, to avoid leaves rotting. Temperature and Humidity Due to its native climate, this plant does well in southern areas with lots of sun and dry heat. Plant them when temperatures are above 75 degrees Fahrenheit. The soil temperature should be at least 60 degrees when planting seeds or seedlings. Choose a spot with lots of direct sunlight and good airflow. You can also successfully grow these sun-loving nightshades in greenhouses but don't forget to incorporate fans, as these plants don't do well in an overly humid climate. Fertilizer Your pepper plant will have the best success if started with some fertilizer. You can also incorporate rock phosphorous or bone meal to encourage healthy root growth.2 As your plant grows, you can fertilize every few weeks with a low-nitrogen fertilizer. Organic options can be a great choice, but no matter what fertilizer you use, follow the application and quantity instructions carefully to avoid damaging the delicate plant. Pruning Pruning your pepper plant properly can help you achieve the highest yield possible. While not required, pruning helps provide more airflow for your plant, helps avoid rot and pests, and ultimately provides you with a greater harvest down the line. About a week after planting a seedling, you can begin early pruning. In this stage, pinch an inch or so off the main stem, which will encourage the development of two healthy branches and, therefore, a larger, healthier plant later on. Remove the first batch of flowers that appear on your plant early in the process. While it may seem counterintuitive, these flowers appear too early, and pulling them allows the plant to focus its energy on strengthening its branches and roots, then flowering later. Finally, later on, prune any branches or leaves that touch the soil. These are prone to rotting or becoming food for pests and can damage or kill your entire plant. Propagating Anaheim Peppers Propagating peppers takes a while and isn't always successful, but you may want to try it if you have a hardy, delicious, or disease-resistant plant in your garden. To do so, identify a young branch you'd like to remove. Using a sharp blade, remove it cleanly at the base of the branch. Leave a few leaves at the top but remove all lower leaves, flowers, and fruit. Fill a glass with water and submerge the cut end, ensuring at least one node is submerged. Keep the glass in indirect light and change the water as needed. Once roots 1-2 inches long form, transfer the cutting to soil or a hydroponic system. How to Grow Anaheim Peppers from Seed Anaheim peppers are tender and prefer warm weather, so they shouldn't be planted outside until the soil is warm and there's no risk of frost. You can plant seeds indoors in a growing tray or your seedling system of choice about a month and a half before your area's typical final frost date. Plant seeds about 0.2 inches deep in the soil and leave them near a window with full sun and no draft. Once the outdoor temps and soil temps are suitable (if nights are below 50 degrees, it's still too cold), and your seedling is at least 3 inches tall, you can transfer it to your garden bed or container, following the guidelines for fertilizer, soil type, and watering. Overwintering Anaheim peppers can be kept as a perennial for up to 3 years if you follow the proper steps for overwintering. For areas with winters that fall below 50 degrees, you'll need to take some precautions ahead of time, and you'll need to plant in moveable containers. Find an indoor spot that won't fall below 55 degrees, like an attached garage or basement. Your plant won't need lots of light during the winter. Being near a small window or even a fluorescent bulb will work. Once you've relocated your plant, cut down to watering only every 3 to 4 weeks, keeping the soil from entirely drying out but never soaking it. Leaves will die off as the plant goes dormant. This is normal, and doesn't mean the plant has died completely. At this point, you can also prune the plant back to a few main branches. They'll regrow come spring. About a month before your final frost, move the plant to somewhere with a bit more light and warmth. Then, once temperatures are high enough in the summer, move back outside to a spot with bright sunlight and resume normal care. Common Pests and Plant Diseases Aphids While mammals won't come to munch on your pepper plants, they are a draw to many common garden insect pests. Aphids love peppers and may come to eat them, leaving behind diseases or decimating your plant. Flea Beetles They're also prone to flea beetles, which will leave behind a pattern of tiny holes and yellowing leaves. Leafhoppers are another major issue, as they love pepper plants and will spread the mosaic virus very quickly. To prevent pests, keep your garden beds clear in the fall so there isn't extra leaf debris for them to make a home of. You can also employ floating row covers to help protect your plants when they're not flowering. Preventing disease is also easier if you plant with good spacing, use well-draining soil, and rotate crops every few years.

Shishito pepper plant is a Japanese heirloom sweet variety with a slightly smoky, spicy flavor when cooked. Although it has a low Scoville rating of just 50 to 200, the versatility and flavor profile of these small, elongated, wrinkly fruits rival hot chiles for increasing popularity with pepper lovers and gardeners. You might be surprised, occasionally, with one that matches the heat of a mild jalapeño. Shishito is an easy-to-grow pepper that adapts to vegetable gardens, raised beds, pots, and hanging baskets and can even be grown as a houseplant. It's a warm weather plant, set out in late spring or early summer when soil and air temperatures reach averages of close to 70 degrees Fahrenheit. Shishito pepper matures quickly, with harvest beginning in about 65 days. Plants are prolific for producing up to 20 fruits each. How to Plant Shishito Pepper Shishito pepper seed can be direct sown in zones 8 to 10 once soil warms to 70 degrees Fahrenheit. Plan to purchase seedlings or start seeds indoors early if you live in cooler regions. When to Plant Shishito pepper seedlings should be planted around four weeks after the final frost when the soil temperature reaches 70 degrees Fahrenheit. Average daytime temperatures arebetween 70 and 85 degrees Fahrenheit and nighttime temperatures above 55 degrees Fahrenheit is the ideal climate. For growers in cool zones, start seeds indoors 8 to 10 weeks before the final frost. Selecting a Planting Site If you're planting in the ground, in a raised bed, or pots, choose an area that receives direct sunlight all day. Shishito peppers thrive with plenty of heat and light. They need fertile, neutral to slightly acidic soil that drains well. You can also grow Shishito pepper on a sunny windowsill. Spacing, Depth, and Support To transplant a Shishito pepper seedling, dig a hole slightly wider than the rootball: 8 inches deep. Remove the lowest set of leaves and set the seedling with the crown just below the soil surface. Avoid exposing roots to direct sunlight and water well beforehand to discourage transplant shock. Space plants in the garden 12 to 18 inches apart. Leave 24 to 36 inches between plants in a raised bed. Choose a pot 12 inches deep and wide with plenty of drainage holes. At just 2 feet tall, mature peppers do not need support, but a short stake prevents a plant, heavy with fruit, from toppling over. For direct sowing, plant seeds 1/4 inch deep and 12 to 18 inches apart in the garden or 24 to 36 inches apart in a raised bed. Cover with soil. You can plant several seeds in one wide, deep deep container. It may need to be thinned to one plant depending on the pot size. Shishito Pepper Plant Care Plant strong, healthy seedlings when soil and air reach ideal temperatures to avoid potential problems. Provide plenty of sun, adequate air circulation, water and fertilizer and Shishito pepper is easy to grow. Light This heirloom pepper benefits from direct sunlight all day long. Choose a spot that gets at least eight hours daily. Soil Peppers prefer soil rich in organic matter. Add aged compost before or at the time of planting. Soil pH should be neutral to slightly acidic at 6.0 to 6.8. Water Keep seedlings slightly moist by watering every other day to support a healthy root system. Once plants have grown, once-a-week watering is usually sufficient. Avoid overhead watering, maintain consistent moisture, and don't let the soil completely dry out. Drip irrigation is an ideal method for watering peppers. If you live in a dry climate, mulching around the base keeps roots cool and hydrated. Potted plants on the patio or indoors need more frequent watering. Depending on the growing conditions, it can be as often as daily. Water deeply at the base allowing all excess to drain. Temperature and Humidity Pepper plants thrive in hot, sunny conditions. Shishito pepper grows particularly well planted at least four weeks after the final frost when average daily temperatures are between 70 and 85 degrees Fahrenheit. If you're growing this pepper indoors, add a humidifier or set the plant on a pebble tray to boost the humidity level to 40 to 60 percent. Fertilizer Fertilize Shishito pepper every four to six weeks throughout the growing season. Working compost into the planting hole is ideal or add a balanced NPK fertilizer such as 10-10-10. Bloodmeal is an organic alternative that supplies nitrogen. When flowers appear, add bonemeal or an NPK fertilizer higher in phosphorous and potassium, 5-10-10 for example, to encourage flowering and fruiting. As fruits develop, a third application of balanced fertilizer, compost, or bloodmeal helps sustain healthy growth. Shishito peppers also respond well to water-soluble organic fertilizers like fish emulsion and seaweed extract. Fertilize peppers grown in pots more frequently, every two weeks. Pollination Shishito pepper flowers are self-pollinating but, when grown outdoors, are likely to be visited by insects that transfer pollen. Wind movement among plants and insects all contribute to fruit production. If you're growing Shishito pepper indoors, you can hand pollinate or gently sweep your hand through the foliage and flowers of the plant to encourage complete pollination and support better fruiting. Harvesting Shishito Pepper Experienced growers harvest Shishito pepper while still in its green stage, around 60 to 65 days after planting. Fully ripe peppers turn red and are edible, although you might lose flavor. Pick peppers as soon as they are 3 to 4 inches long. Leaving this thin-skinned variety on the vine too long causes it to thicken and makes it less palatable. Plants continue to produce fruit for up to 45 days in optimal conditions. Harvest in the morning for the best flavor and moisture content. Grasp peppers by the stem and gently twist them to remove the stem and fruit. You can also use a snipper. If any of the stem remains attached, the pepper will deteriorate quickly. Shishito peppers can be refrigerated in plastic bags for one week. Freeze excess peppers whole or char, skin, and de-seed them before freezing if you will be cooking with them. How to Grow Shishito Pepper in Pots This pepper grows well in containers, even hanging baskets. Choose one 12 inches deep and wide and fill it with potting soil and aged compost. Potting soil that does not contain inorganic fertilizer is best for germinating seeds. Plant seed 1/4 inch deep and cover lightly. Place the pot to receive full sun and keep the soil evenly moist. To transplant a pepper seedling into a pot, fill a 12-inch deep and wide container with quality potting mix. Dig an 8-inch deep hole, slightly wider than the root ball. Remove the lowest leaves and plant the crown just below the soil level. Adding aged compost to backfill encourages healthy growth. Place pots in a spot that receives full sun daily and keep the soil consistently moist. Propagating Shishito Pepper From Seed Shishito pepper germinates reliably from seed, sprouting anywhere from one to three weeks. You need a seed starting mix and small pots or a germination tray. Fill a germination tray or small pots with moistened, soilless seed starting mix. Plant seeds 1/4 inch deep and cover lightly with the mix. Place container/s in a warm location that receives bright, direct sun. Use grow lights and heating mats or bottom heat to aid germination. Keep seeds consistently moist but avoid overwatering, which can cause them to rot. Plastic domes or other covering help contain moisture. When seeds sprout, remove plastic if you're using it. When true leaves appear and stems are sturdy enough to handle, peppers can be transplanted into full size containers. Overwintering Even though peppers are an annual plant in most zones, they are perennial plants that can be overwintered for several years. Preparing for and encouraging them into dormancy gives an earlier start to next year's growing season with a plant with an established root system. You need a clean, sterile pot, fresh potting soil, a shovel or spade, and sterile clippers. Follow these steps. Fill the bottom of a clean pot with fresh potting soil. You can use a pot the same size as the one the pepper is growing in or choose one slightly smaller. If you plan to overwinter a pepper grown in the ground, select a pot 12 inches wide and deep. Use the clippers to cut back branches leaving two or three nodes per branch and removing all foliage. Slide the pepper out of its pot. If planted in the ground, use a shovel to dig a circle 8 inches out and deep from the main stem, then lift out the plant. Gently shake off excess soil and use your fingers to comb through and feather roots. You can rinse the remaining soil off with a hose. Place the bottom of the root ball on top of the soil and start filling in around the roots until the top of the root ball is covered. Water, let excess drain, then place the pot in a cool spot (55 to 65 degrees Fahrenheit) that receives indirect sun. Continue to remove any new leaves that form during the resting or dormancy period. Dormant pepper plants don't require much water. Once every two weeks is adequate. As temperatures approach 70 degrees Fahrenheit, start exposing the plant to outdoor conditions to harden it off. Peppers with an established root system adapt quickly to outdoor conditions. Common Pests and Plant Diseases Shishito pepper is susceptible to the same pests and diseases that affect all pepper plants. Pests to watch for include aphids and hornworms. The most prevalent fungal infection is powdery mildew and may require repeated treatments for control.

The Persian lime (Citrus × latifolia) is the most common and what you're most likely to find for sale in the grocery store. Growing a lime tree is easy and requires relatively little care if it's placed in the right conditions. It's known for its abundant fruiting habits, whether grown in the ground or in a container. Lime trees produce fruit in around three years. Plus, the tree is pretty to look at, bedecked with petite, ovular leaves and delicate white flowers. A dwarf lime tree is about half the size of a regular lime tree, whereas key lime trees are bushier and produce smaller, more tart key limes. Learning how to grow a lime tree is a great idea if you live in a warm climate and have an open spot in your landscape. See the steps below. How to Plant a Lime Tree A newly planted lime tree requires minimal care once it is established so long as it is planted in the right conditions and area. Selecting a Planting Site Pick a very sunny spot, one that gets at least 6 hours of direct light per day and is preferably south-facing. Consider how future plantings will impact the light and choose a spot where you know future plant growth or outdoor living structures will not impede it. Amend the Soil A lime tree loves organically rich soil. If that's not what you have, amend with compost and manure before planting. Choose a well-draining area; the lime tree does not tolerate wet conditions. To aid in drainage, you can add organic matter, sand, or perlite to the soil. You can also create a mound and add amendments to help things along. Pack the soil down firmly to prevent air pockets, since they hold water. Spacing, Depth, and Support Lime trees should be spaced 15 feet from the closest tree. Your tree should be planted in a hole the same depth and twice as wide as the rootball. Unless the tree is planted in a very windy location, staking should be unnecessary. Lime Tree Care Growing a Persian lime is easy as long as you provide it with the proper care; here are some requirements that will help your lime tree thrive: Provide your lime tree with full sun, for at least six hours. Ensure your tree is given enough water and proper drainage. Plant in an area with good organically rich soil or in a container with quality potting soil. Fertilizer is not necessary but will improve the tree's health. Keep your lime tree in a warm spot at 60-90 degrees Fahrenheit.. Light Sunlight is essential; your tree will produce as much fruit as possible and stays healthy in an area with full sun. Planting your tree in a sunny location is a great idea, but this is extra important for potted plants. Soil The lime tree enjoys rich soil loaded with organics that feed the tree with the necessary nutrients. At the same time, the soil needs to be moist, but well draining. Test your soil before planting and amend it as necessary. Water Give your lime tree plenty of water and keep the soil consistently moist to get the juiciest fruit possible. Use a soaker hose to keep the soil moist under the tree's canopy to a depth of 2 inches. When the soil is dry to the touch, water again. When you plant your tree, more frequent water is needed until it has established itself. Temperature and Humidity Lime trees are native to tropical areas, so recreating similar conditions would be ideal. Keep your lime tree in a warm area; they do not do well in cold conditions. Strictly adhering to the recommended USDA zones of 9 through 11 is your best bet. Fertilizer A Persian lime will do fine without feeding, but adding a fertilizer to your care regimen will increase the tree's vigor and fruit production. Fertilize your tree with an NPK formulation in a ratio of 2:1:2 three times a year. You can find citrus fertilizers with this formula at most garden centers. Apply in early winter, late spring, and mid summer. Pollination Unlike many fruit trees, you will not have to worry about planting two lime trees for pollination. The lime tree is self-pollinating, and there is no real increase in yield seen when multiple trees are present. Types of Lime Trees The Persian lime is the most commercially available lime in the world—and what you find in the supermarket. There are also a few other species that are grown for culinary purposes: Kaffir Lime (Citrus hystrix): Kaffir lime is another very popular lime tree that produces much less fruit and is less hearty. Key Lime (Citrus × aurantiifolia): A small, tart lime tree that produces limes used mostly for baking, the key lime tree is the third most popular lime commercially. Philippine Lime (Citrus × microcarpa): This lime tree is a hybrid between the kumquat and mandarin orange. Rangpur Lime (Citrus limonia): The rangpur lime is a popular hybrid of the citron and the mandarin orange. Harvesting Persian Limes The lime tree will grow limes year-round. Once fruit appears on the tree, it will take around five months to become large and ripen to a greenish yellow with soft, tender flesh. At that point, it is ready to harvest. How to Grow Lime Trees in Containers Growing a lime tree in a pot allows you to move the tree to the area that receives the most sun, is the most convenient location for watering, and is not as prone to cold temperatures that can damage the plant. A potted lime tree requires a bit more care than an in-ground lime tree. Here's how to care for it: Choosing a pot: Use a pot with drainage holes that are considerably bigger than your tree to give it room to grow. Select a good quality organic potting soil and add a mix of organic compost. Aim for a ratio of 5:1. This mixture will give your lime plenty to feed on and limit the need for much supplemental fertilizer. Location: Place your lime tree in a sunny place. If you decide to keep it indoors, you may need to add a grow light to supplement the lighting. A broad spectrum grow light will best mimic the light you need for an abundant harvest. Watering: Potted lime trees will need their water needs monitored closely as the container they are placed in can impact the soil's ability to hold moisture. The soil should be consistently moist. Temperature: If the temperature in your area goes below 50 degrees, you should bring your lime tree inside during the cold months. Pruning the Lime Tree Your lime tree will require very little pruning since it grows very slowly. Your biggest concern will be looking for damaged, dead, or dying branches. When the tree gets some height to it, it is a good idea to prune to allow for easy harvest, but this may be a job best done by a certified arborist since a mature lime tree will require a ladder to reach the top. Propagating a Lime Tree The Persian lime is a seedless variety, so the only option to propagate a lime tree is by taking cuttings. While this is possible, it is not recommended. You may get a viable tree that produces some fruit, but it won't be as healthy or successful as a purchased sapling. The common lime tree is a variety that is grafted onto the heartier rootstock of the bitter orange (Citrus aurantium). This species is highly disease resistant compared to the Persian lime and is much more tolerant of cooler temperatures. It is therefore a much better idea to buy a commercially sold lime tree. Your tree will be healthier, produce more, be more vigorous, and live longer. Common Pests & Plant Diseases Bitter-orange rootstock ensures the lime tree does not suffer from many root or trunk diseases. The biggest disease that should be on your radar is Citrus canker. It causes brown spots on the leaves, which can move to the fruit if left untreated. Use a soaker hose to defend against this disease, but a preventive spray of a copper fungicide every year can be prophylactic. Insects to be aware of are aphids, citrus mites, scale, and leaf miners. All are relatively harmless in mature trees and can be taken care of easily with neem oil.