gardening

When you’re growing a peach tree in your backyard, you need to offer the proper care and conditions to harvest a bountiful crop of delicious, sweet fruit. If you notice your peach tree leaves turning yellow, this can be an early sign of a problem. Understanding some of the common causes of this discoloration can help you take steps to nurse your tree back to health. Natural Yellowing Before you panic, don’t forget that deciduous trees shed their leaves every fall. When you see the leaves on your peach tree turning from green to yellow at this time of year, it’s likely just their natural fall foliage color. How to Fix Dropping deciduous leaves isn’t something you can fix. Peach trees do this to conserve energy and moisture during cold, dry winters before fresh green leaves develop again in the spring. Lack of Light Peach trees are sun lovers. Planting this species too close to a shade-making building or taller tree could result in yellowing leaves. How to Fix Transplant or plant your peach tree in a location that receives around 8 hours of full sun daily. Underwatering You will spot yellowing foliage if your peach tree isn’t getting enough moisture. Following this, the leaves will turn brown and dry before dropping. If your peach tree goes without adequate water for long enough, it can result in drought stress. This causes the tree's roots to shrivel and become damaged or die. When the roots can’t provide adequate water, one of the first places you see the effects is in the tree’s leaves. How to Fix Water needs vary depending on the size of your peach tree and temperatures. However, providing around one inch of water per week is a good guideline for established trees. Water slowly and deeply—if you blast it with a powerful hose, it might run off rather than soak into the soil. Young saplings might need watering as much as every two to three days. Avoid watering only at the base of the tree's trunk. Instead, water around the drip line (the edge of the tree’s canopy where rain naturally falls) as the roots expand outwards. Covering the soil around the tree with a 3—to 4-inch layer of mulch helps retain moisture, especially during scorching summers. This means you might not have to water as often. Overwatering While you don’t want your peach tree roots to be dry for too long when temperatures rise, stone fruit trees are prone to root rot if you overwater and the ground remains soggy, especially in sites with heavy soils.1 One of the early signs of this disease is fewer leaves on your peach tree, and the ones that develop will be small and yellow. How to Fix Avoid letting your peach tree roots stand in saturated soils for prolonged periods. Test the soil moisture levels using a long screwdriver or metal rod, and water only once the soil around the tree roots is dry. If the soil doesn’t have good drainage, consider adding organic matter, such as compost or grass clippings to help lower compaction and increase water infiltration. Nutrient Deficiency If the soil your peach tree is growing in lacks sufficient iron or manganese or is unable to absorb them effectively, this can reduce the production of chlorophyll (the green pigment in leaves that helps plant’s create food through photosynthesis). This common cause of yellowing leaves is frequently seen when soils have high alkaline pH levels, which make it difficult for the trees to absorb these essential nutrients. How to Fix Soil testing can help you determine whether your peach tree's soil requires more manganese or iron. Ferrous and manganese sulfate foliage sprays offer a temporary greening effect, and trunk implant capsules and chelating agent soil additives can last up to two years. Shothole Fungal Disease Peach trees can be prone to shothole fungal disease (Coryneum blight). The first signs are small red spots with yellow margins that develop into holes in the leaves. How to Fix Avoid overhead watering, prune your peach tree to remove infected branches, and, for more serious cases, apply a copper fungicide spray in the fall as the leaves begin to drop and again once the tree is dormant in winter. Peach Leaf Curl Peach leaf curl (Taphrina deformans) is another leaf-yellowing fungal disease that peach trees are prone to. It can also cause puckering, thickening, stunting, and eventual dropping of infected foliage. The disease tends to appear in the cool, wet springtime. How to Fix Unfortunately, once the signs of this disease are visible, it’s not possible to control it. However, you can apply a fungicide (chlorothalonil or copper fungicide) during the tree’s dormant period in late fall after the leaves have fallen (and before new buds begin to swell) to control the problem for the following season’s growth. Pest Infestation If you have a big enough infestation of leaf-eating pests, such as peach tree borers, aphids or mites, it can cause damage that makes it difficult for nutrients to be absorbed, resulting in yellowing of the leaves. How to Fix Vigilance and quick action before infestations get out of control is your best line of defense. Often, it’s possible to get rid of aphids or similar pests with a strong jet of water. Alternatively, apply a thorough coating of an insecticidal soap or organic insecticide, such as neem oil.

The best time to plant a tree can be in the early spring (before it starts leafing out) or in the fall, although many experts prefer a fall planting. When trees are planted, they love moderate conditions—they don't want to deal with an incoming heat wave. Planting a tree at the right time gives it a chance to get accustomed to its new home before dealing with challenges. Learn the best time of year to plant the different types of trees, why both spring plantings and fall plantings are valid options, and the steps you need to take to get the tree in the ground without stressing it out too much. The Best Time of Year to Plant Trees The best time of year to plant trees is when the ground is workable and the soil temperature is mild, usually in spring or fall, with no heat waves on the horizon. For spring plantings: The soil warms up earlier in the year in southern parts of the country. Extreme heat comes quicker there, so it's best to plant early in the spring. For fall plantings: In northern parts of the country, it is imperative to plant a tree before the ground freezes and becomes unworkable. It's best to plant it way before the freeze, to give the tree time to become established. Getting the timing right gives the tree a chance to develop a healthy root system before it has to cope with extreme conditions, but what type of tree you are planting also makes a difference: Deciduous Trees Deciduous trees are so-called because they drop their leaves partway through fall. This causes you the extra work of having to rake them up, but fall leaf-drop isn't all bad. When the leaves fall from a deciduous tree, it signals the beginning of its dormant period. It serves as a cue for you: the beginning of the dormant period is the best time to plant this type of tree. Needled Evergreen Trees The growth of needled evergreen trees slows in winter, but these trees do not undergo the kind of dormancy that deciduous trees do. It therefore makes less of a difference whether you plant an evergreen in fall or in early spring. Experts lean slightly in favor of a fall planting, simply because it gives your tree more time to become established before the heat of summer rolls around again. 2 Reasons Fall Planting Usually Works Best Fall planting works great because, unlike spring planting, the tree has a long time to become established before the threat of a premature heat wave. For deciduous trees, you can take advantage of their period of dormancy. The beginning of this period occurs in fall and is the best time to plant deciduous trees. When to Plant Popular Trees Let's take a look at when to plant popular trees: Maple Trees Maples are a favorite for autumn color, and you can grow sugar maples to make your own maple syrup. Plant these trees in the early fall. Birch Trees Paper birch and river birch are two better-known types of this popular tree. Another deciduous tree, fall is the ideal time to plant birch. Pine Trees There are over 40 types of pine. The pine is the classic needled evergreen tree, and it can be planted in fall or in early spring. Before Planting a Tree Keep in mind two factors when purchasing a tree and determining when to plant: Bare-root vs. container-grown: "Bare-root" trees will likely have a harder time surviving in harsh conditions compared to container-grown trees. Tree type: Not all trees are the same—for example, evergreen and deciduous trees need different care. How to Plant a Tree Successfully Dig the hole. Make the hole twice the width of the root ball but not as deep as it is wide. Install the plant in this hole. Ensure that the top of the root ball is an inch or two above the soil line. Backfill the hole. Use a mixture of soil and compost. Tamp the soil down. Gently press down on the soil around the plant to make sure it's firm. Water lightly as you're backfilling and tamping. This will help the soil settle. Create a slight depression around the tree. This will make it easier to catch and hold water. Irrigate. Water the tree again to saturate its soil. 4 Tips to Growing a Strong Tree Select the Right Type of Tree and Locate It Properly Make sure the tree is right for your USDA Zone. When ready to plant, select a location that meets the tree's growing requirements (such as proper sun exposure). Water the Tree Properly Watering the tree properly is one of the key steps to take in growing a strong tree. Don't overlook the importance of watering even in winter: Keep the tree you planted in fall well-watered throughout the winter. Apply Mulch Add a 3-inch layer of mulch around the tree. This will help it conserve water and kill the weeds that would be competing with your tree for water and nutrients. But avoid placing mulch right up against the trunk, which invites pest damage. Prune the Tree Properly Pruning a flowering tree at the wrong time can deprive you of its gorgeous flowers. The right time to prune spring-blooming trees is right after they've finished blooming. If you prune later than that, you risk removing the new buds that will bring next year's flowers. Can I Plant a Tree in the Spring? Yes, as long as you do so in early spring. If you don't have the time to water your new tree and live in a region where spring is rainier than fall, spring may be the best time to plant a tree: Nature will take care of the watering for you. Adequate water is a key factor in a successful planting. If you live more north and don't have the time to install the tree early enough in the fall, you could risk damage to the tree due to freezing.

Gray birch is a fast-growing, medium-sized North American native tree that stands out for its attractive color-changing bark, long-lasting catkins, and slender silhouette. This adaptable type of birch tree is easy to grow in full sun or part shade. It tolerates most soils but prefers wetter locations and temperatures that aren’t too high. Gray Birch Care Here are the main care requirements for easy-to-grow gray birch trees: Position in full sun or partial shade. Plant in a cool and moist site with little competition from other species. Water regularly in dry sites during the growing season. Mulch to retain moisture and cool soil. Grows in most soil types, from poor to loamy. Fertilizer is not a typical requirement. Light Gray birch trees do best in a partial shade location. Receiving morning sun means their foliage will look the most impressive. These trees can handle a full sun position, especially in cooler regions, but avoid planting in a full shade location. Soil One of the biggest advantages of gray birch trees is their ability to grow in most soils. For this reason, some enthusiasts refer to the species as the ‘poverty birch’. They can thrive in poor, infertile, rocky soils, rich loamy varieties, and heavy clay. They do prefer a well-drained but moist site. Water While gray birch trees can handle occasional periods of dryness, they do best in consistently moist soils. They have a shallow root system and don’t appreciate extended droughts or high temperatures. Your birch tree won't need supplemental watering in a naturally moist site with sufficient rainfall. If the site is drier, watering deeply over a few hours once a week during the growing season is recommended. An amount of 8 to 18 inches should be sufficient.1 The moisture levels are sufficient when the soil can form into a ball in your hand rather than crumbling. Mulching around the tree base also helps to conserve water. Temperature and Humidity The gray birch isn’t a tree to plant in hot, sultry southern states. This species does best in cooler climates where temperatures are unlikely to exceed 75°F and humidity levels aren’t too high.2Mulching around the tree base also helps to keep the soil consistently cool. Fertilizer Landscape trees such as the gray birch rarely need supplemental nutrients to thrive.1 Only apply fertilizer for this species if a soil test reveals there is a particular nutrient deficiency. If you are fertilizing, use a slow-release formula in late fall or early spring, avoiding application when the ground is frozen. Fertilizing in the summer or early fall can cause late growth that won’t harden off in time for the cold winter months. Pruning A big advantage of the gray birch is that it does not require heavy pruning. Excessive pruning—more than 25% of the canopy—can be detrimental to the health of the tree.1 Too much light getting down to the soil can increase soil temperatures and decrease moisture levels—something you don’t want for a gray birch. If you do need to prune, it should just be to remove any broken, dying, or dead branches in the late summer or fall. Avoid pruning from May to the end of July. This is when bronze birch borers are in flight and these pests are attracted to fresh cuts made after pruning. Propagating Gray Birch Propagating gray birch trees by rooting branch cuttings is tricky but not impossible. If you want to try this technique, being mindful of the low success rate, try following the steps below: Take an 8-inch cutting using sterile pruning shears from a branch tip with healthy new growth. Cut below a leaf node (the lump on the stem where a leaf grows from). Keep any leaves growing on the top half of the cutting and remove the leaves on the bottom few inches. As an optional step, dip the base of the cutting in rooting hormone to increase the chance of it taking root. Plant the cutting in a well-draining, moist potting mix. Loosely cover the pot and cutting with a clear plastic bag. This helps retain a beneficially moist environment. Position the pot in a spot that receives bright but indirect light, and that is away from drafts. Ensure the soil remains evenly moist without being soggy. If successful, the cutting should take root within eight weeks. Once the cutting has fully taken root and remains securely in the soil when you tug, it is ready for transplanting. Transfer the cutting to its permanent location; try not to damage the roots. Keep the transplant evenly moist for the next two months. The propagation technique has succeeded if you see new growth emerging from the cutting. How to Grow Gray Birch From Seed Growing gray birch from seed is a more reliable way to produce a new tree than propagating from cutting. To attempt this technique, try following the steps below: Collect the seeds from catkins as they turn from green to brown in the fall. Stratify the seeds for at least one month in a refrigerator or unheated garage to break their dormancy and prepare them for germination. Sow the seeds in a container of rich potting soil. Cover seeds lightly with a shallow layer of soil and dampen with water. Move the container to a warm spot where it receives bright but indirect light, and keep the soil evenly moist. Keeping in a cold frame helps provide an ideal germination environment. Within a few weeks, you should see signs of germination. Thin out the seedlings as necessary, aiming to select the strongest-looking individuals. When the seedlings are strong enough for handling, prick individuals out and put them into their own pots. Keep them in the cold frame for their first winter. Transplant the successful seedling to its outdoor position after the last frosts in the spring. Overwintering Watering deeply and mulching the tree base in late fall helps preserve moisture and maintain consistent soil temperatures around the roots. Additional watering may be required if you experience a dry winter, but don't leave the soil soggy. Common Pests and Plant Diseases Bronze birch borer infestations can be a problem for gray birch trees. An infestation will result in chlorotic leaves, leaf drop, and the death of upper branches on the tree. Without insecticidal treatment, infestations can eventually kill the tree.3 Fortunately, the gray birch is not as bothered by this pest as some birch species, and healthy trees are less likely to suffer damage than stressed and weak ones. There is also a cultivar, Betula populifolia ‘Whitespire Senior’, which is particularly resistant to these insects. Avoid planting your gray birch in soils with high alkaline pH levels—this can also lead to chlorosis (a yellowing of leaves that would normally be green). Also, watch out for leaf miner attacks (these burrowing larvae are treatable with insecticides) and cankers (infected, dead areas on branches).

Elegant, showy, and resistant to pests and disease, Japanese snowbell tree (Styrax japonicus) is a little-known gem with potential in both urban and rural landscapes. This small, compact tree blooms in May and June displaying clusters of fragrant, bell-shaped, white or pink blossoms and glossy, dark green foliage. Long-lasting fruits appear in autumn and mature trees develop fissured bark adding winter interest. Japanese snowbell is a good choice to plant around patios and in beds or shrub borders providing dappled sunlight for shade-loving garden plants and flowers. Dwarf varieties can also be grown in containers. Read this guide to learn more about the lovely Japanese snowbell tree and how to fit one into your landscape plan. Japanese Snowbell Care Once your Japanese snowbell tree is established, little maintenance is required other than occasional pruning to develop the desired shape and size. Early growth creates a vase-like form in most cultivars extending to a more rounded crown as these trees mature. Fruits drop in autumn and early winter but seldom create a need for extensive clean-up. Plant in a location sheltered from high winds. Light Plant this small, ornamental tree where it will receive six hours of bright, direct sun exposure daily. In climates with hot summers (90 degrees°F ) two hours of afternoon shade protect foliage from sunburn. Insufficient light causes leaves to yellow and drop. Soil Japanese snowbell is tolerant of clay and sand but humus-rich loam that drains well delivers the healthiest growth. Soil pH should range from neutral to slightly acidic with ideal levels between 5.5 and 6.5. Water This tree has moderate moisture needs but won't tolerate drought conditions. Water newly planted saplings weekly during the first year to keep soil consistently damp but not soggy. Irrigate deeply with a gallon of water every one or two weeks depending on rainfall in your area. Once established, plan to water as needed during the summer months. A 3- to 4-inch layer of mulch retains soil moisture and discourages competing weeds. Temperature and Humidity Japanese snowbell adapts well to average temperatures in USDA zones 5 through 8 and parts of zone 9. Some varieties tolerate temperatures as high as 95°F as long as afternoon shade is provided. Others survive temperatures as low as 5°F but extreme fluctuations in temperate could be damaging to this tree. Mulching helps prevent root damage in colder climates with late spring frosts. Humidity levels generally aren't an issue however extended periods of hot, moist air can lead to fungal problems. Fertilizer Fertilizer is optional for trees grown in good soil with several suggestions for supplemental feeding. Some growers recommend withholding fertilizer until young trees establish a strong root system, then applying a balanced, water-soluble formula in early spring before new growth begins. To encourage blooming choose a product slightly higher in phosphorous. Types of Japanese Snowbell S. japonicus 'Carillon': Weeping cultivar with white flowers on cascading branches. Slow growers mature at 10 feet tall. Hardy in USDA zones 5 to 8. S. japonicus 'Crystal': This cultivar forms a more columnar shape with black-green foliage and white flowers on purple stems. Hardy to USDA zone 5. S. japonicus 'Emerald Pagoda': Young trees display upright pyramidal growth with large white flowers and leathery, vibrant green leaves. Hardy to USDA zone 5 S. japonicus 'Evening Light': Leaves emerge as purple-maroon turning to a maroon-green hue. White flowers feature maroon sepals. Growth is often multi-stemmed with trees maturing at 15 feet tall and 10 feet wide. Hardy to USDA zone 5 S. japonicus 'Pink Chimes': Fragrant light pink blossoms appear in June on this cultivar with a shrubby growth habit. Hardy in USDA zones 5 to 8. Pruning Japanese snowbell trees grow slowly so pruning requirements are minimal and done in late winter or early spring before buds appear. Remove low branches from young trees to encourage crown development and reduce multi-stemmed cultivars to a single stem to create a tree form. Inspect your tree annually and remove dead, diseased, and damaged branches. Otherwise, gentle pruning about every three years is usually adequate to retain the desired shape. Propagating Japanese Snowbell New cultivars of Japanese snowbell are coming to market as this ornamental gains popularity with homeowners. It isn't legal to propagate trademarked cultivars so plan to purchase additional nursery-grown seedlings. Although other varieties can be propagated in summer with softwood cuttings,success is limited with slow development. It can take several years to get a reliable transplant. Potting and Repotting Japanese Snowbell Several dwarf varieties of Japanese snowbell are suited to growing in containers maturing at just 8 to 10 feet tall and 3 to 4 feet wide. Select a pot with plenty of drainage holes and at least twice as wide and deep as the rootball. Plastic or glazed ceramic pots work best for retaining soil moisture. Potting and repotting is best done in early spring. Starting with a nursery-grown tree, fill your container 1/3 full with quality potting soil. Lift the tree from its starter pot or remove burlap or other material from the rootball and lightly shake off excess soil. Set the tree on top of the soil and spread out the roots. Start backfilling in around them with more potting soil until it reaches the original soil line on the trunk. Watering as you go helps settle the soil. Water thoroughly. Remember that potted trees require more frequent irrigation. Slow-growing Japanese snowball requires potting up only about every three years or when roots begin to extend through the drainage holes. Choose a new, larger container twice the width and depth of the larger rootball and follow the steps above. Overwintering In colder climates, protect Japanese snowbell roots with a thick layer of mulch. Move potted trees to a sheltered location and insulate pots in areas where temperatures dip below 5°F or the low temperature tolerated by your cultivar. Common Pests and Plant Diseases Japanese snowbell is unaffected by common pests and plant diseases. Ambrosia beetles may be attracted to plants weakened by environmental stresses like extreme temperatures. Prevent infestations by maintaining healthy growth and knocking down pests as soon as you spot them with a strong spray from a garden hose. There are no chemical controls for Ambrosia beetles, although pyrethrin is sometimes applied in worst cases. How to Get Japanese Snowbell to Bloom Bloom Months Japanese snowbells bloom in late spring to early summer. Depending on variety, flowers appear between May and June lasting for several weeks. What Do Japanese Snowbell Flowers Look and Smell Like? Lightly fragrant, white or pink, 3/4 inch flowers appear in masses on most varieties although new cultivars are being developed with larger flowers. Bell-shaped blossoms are pendulous, dangling below branches from green or purple stems with some white varieties featuring purple sepals. Foliage grows in an upright orientation on upper branch surfaces which showcases the flowers below. This tree is most valued for its spring floral display with mixed opinions on flower fragrance— some say pleasant, odd, or coarse. It is highly attractive to bees and other pollinators. How to Encourage More Blooms Healthy trees bloom easily and profusely without additional fertilizer. You can, however, boost blooms with a high-phosphorous NPK fertilizer in early spring. Caring For Japanese Snowbell After It Blooms Japanese snowbell blossoms drop naturally and seeds develop fruits called drupes in late summer and early autumn. There is no need to remove flowers. Common Problems With Japanese Snowbell This is an easy-care, ornamental hardwood that is nearly problem free. Issues that may come up are likely due to inadequate watering or environmental causes. Yellowing Leaves Foliage can become chlorotic, with a faded, yellowing color, when soil is too alkaline, temperatures are too high, or soil gets too dry. Check the soil and lower pH before planting if necessary. Make sure the variety you choose is adapted for your growing zone and water new plantings weekly for the first year. Apply mulch to hold in soil moisture and discourage weeds. Lack of Blooms A deficit of flowers is likely caused by a mistake with fertilizer. Planted in humus-rich, well-drained soil, these trees do not require supplemental feeding. Fertilizers with too much nitrogen result in overabundant foliage at the expense of flowers.

Planting a Chinese fringe tree (Chionanthus retusus) can add a striking focal point in a garden without taking up too much room or creating too much work for a homeowner. This slow-growing, small ornamental tree provides a lot of aesthetic value and wow-factor for its size. Its profuse white blooms and dark purple fruit can be stunning and make this species one to consider adding to your landscape if you are looking for a unique non-native to add. How to Plant a Chinese Fringe Tree While the Chinese fringe tree is ultimately not that fussy, soil is the most significant consideration you need to consider when planting this species. Be sure to test the soil before planting to ensure it is moist, well draining, rich, and acidic. Selecting a Planting Site Picking a planting site for the Chinese fringe tree where the soil is good and the tree will receive plenty of sun. Once those requirements are met, choose a location where it’ll be visible, to take advantage of its ornamental value. Pick a spot where its blooms can be seen during the spring and its interesting bark can be seen during the winter. Spacing, Depth, and Support If planting more than one Chinese fringe tree, the ideal spacing is 15 to 20 feet apart. This distance will provide enough area for each tree to get enough sunlight to achieve its best blooms. When planting, you will want to ensure the depth is twice as wide as the root ball is deep. Once planted, you will not need to support the tree as most Chinese fringe trees on the market are multistemmed. Care As fabulous as it looks, the Chinese fringe tree is surprisingly low maintenance and problem-free if you provide it with the right conditions. Plant Chinese fringe trees in an area that receives full sun. Ensure the tree's soil is acidic and well-draining. Water the Chinese fringe tree often in dry weather. Prune Chinese fringe trees sparingly. Light The Chinese fringe tree prefers full sun to part shade but to guarantee that your tree produces a profuse amount of blooms you must provide your tree with full sun. Soil Providing organically rich, well-draining, and moist soil will give your Chinese fringe tree the best chance of thriving. Aim for soil with a low pH (under 7.0). Water Keeping your Chinese fringe tree well-watered is essential to keep it producing plenty of flowers. This particular species does not tolerate excessively dry weather and needs to be watered more in dry conditions, or its health and ornamental qualities will suffer noticeably. Temperature and Humidity The Chinese fringe tree is not incredibly fussy regarding temperature and humidity. It will be happy if you keep it situated in the recommended USDA hardiness zones of 5 through 9. Fertilizer While not necessary for the tree's health, providing a Chinese fringe tree with supplemental fertilizer will enhance its blooms. A yearly application of flowering tree or shrub fertilizer will support its flower production. Pruning Pruning Chinese fringe tree should be kept to a minimum. Being a multistemmed tree, they look best with a natural, untended look. When there are branches that are dead, damaged, or crowding each other, pruning is recommended. Propagating Propagating a Chinese fringe tree is notoriously difficult, both from cuttings and by seed, and the average hobby gardener is unlikely to succeed. Your best bet at getting another Chinese fringe tree is purchasing it. Common Pests and Plant Diseases Fortunately the Chinese fringe tree does not suffer from many pests or diseases, and its issues usually do not threaten the tree's life. The most significant concern when dealing with pests may be mites, which can easily be treated. You will not run into many disease issues beyond superficial powdery mildew, which can be treated easily with a fungicide available at any nursery or home center. How to Get a Chinese Fringe Tree to Bloom To encourage your Chinese fringe tree to bloom profusely, plant it in full sun and clear away anything that shades the tree during the day. That action alone will elevate your blooms. Provide a yearly dose of fertilizer and provide it with a steady supply of water. Without enough water, its flower production will stall.

Hass avocado trees are best known for their edible fruits with bumpy, dark skin and pale green, creamy flesh. First established in California, this cultivar is believed to be a hybrid of Mexican and Guatemalan avocado varieties. Beyond fruit cultivation, you might grow a Hass avocado tree for its attractive leafy green foliage and conical growth habit. This self-fertile fruit tree grows best with at least six hours of full sun, well-draining, acidic soil, and warm daytime temperatures with moderate evening temperatures. All parts of the Hass avocado tree, including the foliage, fruit, seed, and bark are considered toxic to pets. Hass Avocado Tree Care If you want to grow a Hass avocado tree, here are the care requirements you need to know. Plant in loose, well-draining soil. Choose a location that receives bright, indirect light. Water thoroughly, but not to the point of oversaturation. Feed during the spring, summer, and fall months. Light For a lush, leafy canopy and bloom production, Hass avocado trees should receive at least six hours of bright, indirect sunlight. These trees can tolerate light shade, too, but too much and the tree’s foliage growth will be hindered. Soil The soil for growing a Hass avocado tree should be loose and well-draining. Loamy or sandy soil will support healthy root growth but heavy clay soil should be avoided because of poor drainage. Water Hass avocado trees require regular watering. Once per week is a good baseline for mature trees, but take into account recent rainfall or humidity levels. The top inch or so of soil should be dry before watering again. Water to restore soil moisture but don’t allow the soil to become drenched and soggy. Temperature and Humidity The Hass avocado tree is mainly considered hardy in USDA growing zones 9 to 11. It does best with moderately warm and humid temperatures; between 60°F and 85°F with average-to-high humidity is considered ideal. The tree won’t tolerate freezing temperatures so in climates that see temperatures dip below freezing, the best option is to grow the tree as a container plant that can be sheltered indoors in the winter. Fertilizer Hass avocado trees are heavy feeders. Plan on fertilizing trees during the spring, summer, and fall with a well-balanced NPK formula applied to the soil. In addition, apply a foliar fertilizer to the leaves in the spring. Zinc and nitrogen should be applied to the soil in spring, summer, and fall, plus a foliar fertilizer application of zinc in the spring.2 Pruning In general, avocado trees don’t require much pruning and Hass avocado trees aren’t any different. You should avoid over- or under-pruning the tree.3 To do that, prune to remove dead wood and maintain a conical shape that allows easy access to the tree’s branches and sufficient light penetration and airflow. Propagating a Hass Avocado Tree As a cultivar, a Hass avocado tree can only be propagated through grafting and it’s best done in the spring. If you have the skills and tools to graft a tree—including a healthy rootstock specimen—here’s how to do it: Gather the following supplies: sharp snips, a sharp knife, and something to cover the grafted area, such as grafting tape. Select a section of new growth between 5 and 6 inches long with several unopened leaf buds. Using the snips, cut the new growth branch at a 45-degree angle. Remove the tip of the cutting, along with any leaves that are present. On the tree you’ll be grafting onto, wound the tree by removing a section of the bark. Take the cutting and position it onto the grafting site, with the cambium of the cutting and the cambium of the grafted tree making contact. Use grafting tape to secure the cutting to the graft tree, covering all exposed areas. After several weeks, the grafted branch and the main tree should be fused together. Potting and Repotting a Hass Avocado Tree Like other types of avocado trees, you can grow a Hass avocado tree in a pot and this is especially recommended if you live in USDA hardiness zones 8 or below. In zone 8, you may be able to overwinter the tree outdoors. Beyond that, you’ll need to grow the avocado tree indoors or be prepared to move it inside during cold weather months. Hass avocado trees grown indoors usually mature to a height of 5 to 7 feet. For store-bought trees that are already several feet tall, you should choose a large container. Pick a pot with drainage holes to prevent the soil from becoming waterlogged, which can lead to root rot. Fill the container with a loose soil mix; cactus or succulent soil mix works well. Plant the tree—covering the root ball—and water thoroughly. Depending on how large of a container you choose, you may not need to replant the tree for several years. Overwintering Hass avocado trees grown in USDA zones 9 to 11 will require no special accommodations since the year-round temperatures remain well above freezing. If you plan to grow this type of tree in USDA zone 8, you’ll need to provide the tree with some additional protection during the colder months of the year. If temperatures are forecasted to drop below freezing, cover the base of the tree with a frost blanket. It’s also helpful if the tree has been planted beneath an overhang or with a south-facing orientation in the shelter of a nearby building. If your Hass avocado tree is grown in a container, you can move it to a protected location when cold weather is imminent. Common Pests & Plant Diseases Like other types of avocado trees, Hass avocado trees are susceptible to attack by pests including several types of mites, along with thrips, caterpillars, borers, and lace bugs, which live in colonies on the leaves of the trees.4 Fungal diseases, like canker and root rot, can also cause damage to the roots, branches, and foliage of the tree. How to Get a Hass Avocado Tree to Bloom Although the Hass avocado tree is best known for its fruit, the flowers are an integral part of the fruiting process. Here’s what to know about how to encourage your Hass avocado tree to bloom. Bloom Months Hass avocado trees typically bloom between March and May, although the specific growing environment may skew this timeframe slightly earlier or later. In tropical climates, flower production is usually greatly reduced. This is because Hass avocado trees depend on a period of cool temperatures (under 45°F to jumpstart flower production. How Long Do Hass Avocado Trees Bloom? You can expect Hass avocado trees to bloom for a period of about six weeks, although each individual flower only blooms for two days. How to Encourage More Blooms If you have the right environmental conditions for a Hass avocado tree to bloom but still see no flowers and you have a mature tree (it can take up to 4 years for a grafted tree to produce blooms), then you might need to fertilize the tree with the proper nutrients to support foliar growth. In addition, your tree may not be receiving sufficient sunshine to promote bloom development. You might need to transplant the tree to a suitable site that receives at least six hours of light each day. Common Problems With Hass Avocado Trees The Hass avocado tree is prone to a few pests and problems. Here are the most common warning signs to look for and what to do to improve the health of your tree if you notice these symptoms. Leaves With Yellow Spots If you notice yellow spots appearing on the leaves of the tree, it could be a sign of lace bugs. Closely inspect the underside of the leaves for visual signs of an infestation; you may see black specks of feces. In small numbers, no corrective action may be required for lace bugs.5 However, if you need to intervene, neem oil is the best option for treatment. When the yellow of the leaves is also accompanied by undersized foliage or the leaves are turning brown at the tips, you may be seeing evidence of root rot. Examine the soil for signs of oversaturation. You should extend the period between watering sessions and amend the soil if necessary to provide sufficient drainage. Discolored or Scarred Fruit Sunblotch is a disease that affects avocado trees and results in discoloration or visible scars on the skin of the avocado fruit. Unfortunately, there’s no cure for sunblotch and the tree should be removed.6 Thrips can also cause discoloration of Hass avocado fruit, usually appearing as dull, brown patches on the skin of the fruit. To treat a thrips infestation, use a neem oil spray.

Plum blossom (Prunus mume), also commonly known as Chinese plum or Japanese plum, is an ornamental tree that produces attractive blossoms and small stone fruits. Its beauty rivals the cherry blossom tree, and it blooms earlier in the year, making it a welcome sight during winter. Plum blossom trees grow best in full to partial sunlight, and require moist but well-draining soil with an acidic pH level. The leaves, stems, and seeds of the plum blossom are toxic to dogs and cats. Plum Blossom Care Here are the main care requirements for growing plum blossom. Plant in well-draining soil. Choose a spot that receives at least four to six hours of sunlight daily. Water regularly but ensure adequate drainage to avoid oversaturation. Feed with a nitrogen-rich fertilizer during late summer or early fall. Light Like most flowering and fruiting trees, plum blossom trees will do best in a location that receives full sun. However, the tree can grow in partial shade conditions but it should receive at least four hours of sunlight a day. Soil Well-draining soil is the main requirement for the planting site. And while the tree can tolerate a range of soil conditions, loamy, rich soil is ideal. It prefers acidic soil pH levels. Water The plum blossom will need to be watered regularly to ensure the soil remains moist but mature trees exhibit moderate drought tolerance. When deciding how often to water this tree, keep in mind that the soil should not become oversaturated. Good drainage assists in preventing soggy soil conditions. Temperature and Humidity The ideal climate for plum blossom trees is USDA hardiness zones 6 to 9, which can see temperatures dip below 0°F. Trees planted in the coldest regions should be located in a sheltered area to protect against the effects of harsh winter winds. On the other hand, if you grow plum blossom trees in a warmer climate, choose a planting location that provides partial shade during the hottest part of the day to avoid foliage damage from intense sun. Fertilizer To support the production of foliage and fruit, plum blossom trees do best when grown in nutrient-rich soil. If you have subpar soil quality, you should consider supplementing with an organic fertilizer. For conventional fertilizer, a high nitrogen formula can help to support growth, especially during the first few years. Apply fertilizer during the late summer or early fall to support the following season’s growth. As a general rule of thumb, trees in the Prunus genus should produce about 24 inches of new shoot growth every year.2 If your tree is producing more than that, cut back on feeding nitrogen-rich fertilizer. If it's growing more slowly, increase the amount of nitrogen fertilizer you administer. Pruning If you decide to prune the plum blossom tree to maintain a desired shape and eliminate any dead wood, when you prune the tree is critically important if you are hoping to maximize flower production. Plum blossom trees should be pruned immediately after flowering. Since the tree blooms on the previous year’s wood, pruning ahead of flowering will result in the loss of buds and reduced flower production. In most instances, you’ll want to cut back the limbs by two nodes. Alternatively, if fungal disease is a concern, you can prune the plum blossom tree in the summer. While the tree is less susceptible to infection in the pruning cuts, you’ll likely reduce some of the tree’s flowering potential for the following year. Propagating Plum Blossom Trees Cuttings of prunus mume can be notoriously hard to root and to grow a plant that is true to the parent cultivar, you’ll have to graft a softwood cutting onto a rootstock. Because of the challenge of propagation and slow rate of flowering activity (usually at least two years for grafted specimens), it’s usually best to purchase a young tree from a nursery. How to Grow Plum Blossom From Seed Plum blossom trees are known to be challenging to propagate using cuttings but have better results when grown from seed, although it may take at least three years to see flower production. If you’d like to grow plum blossom from seeds—acquired from ripened fruit or a nursery, here’s how to do it: Fill a plastic bag with moistened sphagnum moss and sand (1:1 ratio). Bury the seeds inside the filler material. Stratify the seeds by placing the bag inside a refrigerator for about three months. If the seeds begin to sprout sooner, it’s time to plant them. In the spring, sow the seeds in your desired outdoor garden location. Alternatively, you can start the seeds in greenhouse conditions and then transplant in the spring. Common Pests & Plant Diseases Some of the most common pests that are attracted to plum blossom trees are aphids, spider mites, tent caterpillars, and borers. Scale can also be a problem, especially on the fruit produced by the tree. Diseases that sometimes afflict plum blossom trees are usually fungal. Some of the most common infections are honey fungus, verticillium wilt, silver leaf, and brown rot. In addition, Prunus species are also subject to bacterial canker, which causes sunken, oozing sections of bark and impedes shoot development.3 How to Get Plum Blossom to Bloom Plum blossom trees typically bloom in February and March, but as early as January in more temperate climates. This early blooming activity distinguishes it from the similar (and more well-known) cherry blossom tree. What Do Plum Blossom Flowers Look and Smell Like? Plum blossom flowers have a showy appearance with pink petals, although some cultivars display white or even reddish blossoms. The single or double flowers on a plum blossom tree have a short stem that emerges from the bare branches of the tree, prior to the appearance of foliage. The tree will stay in bloom for several weeks, up to a month. Aside from a splashy show of color, the plum blossom tree is also noted for its sweet, slightly spicy fragrance emanating from the opened flower blossoms. Common Problems With Plum Blossom Plum blossom trees are generally considered to be low-maintenance, but they can be impacted by various pests or environmental conditions. The most common issue relates to imbalances in watering or infection from bacteria and fungi. Leaves Turning Yellow or Brown If the leaves of the plum blossom tree begin to turn yellow, it could be a sign that the tree is experiencing stress from being under-watered. Check the soil and ensure that it’s moist. Water regularly to improve soil moisture but don’t overwater the tree, remembering that the soil shouldn’t become overly saturated and that it can take time for a tree to recover from drought stress. Leaves that turn yellow or develop brown spots can also be a sign of fungal or bacterial infection. A closer inspection of the tree's limbs and roots can reveal other symptoms that might point to verticillium wilt, bacterial canker, brown rot, or silver leaf disease. If you suspect any of these diseases, it would be best to do more research on the specific condition and how to minimize the impact of the disease on your tree and surrounding landscape plants.

Strawberries should be watered anytime the top inches of soil are dry. Water strawberries in the morning for best results. If leaves are discolored, fruits are not as flavorful, or growth is odd, check if you are over or underwatering your plant. The importance of properly watering strawberries cannot be overstated—without proper irrigation, you won’t be able to harvest the juicy fruit that makes growing your own strawberries a worthwhile effort. Strawberries have shallow root systems. This makes them especially sensitive to water deficit and a water-stressed plant can’t produce the juicy berries you are craving. Overwatering strawberries also backfires and causes problems such as rotting. Here is what you need to know about how much to water strawberries and when. How Often to Water Strawberries Water newly planted strawberries thoroughly immediately after planting and then daily for the first week after planting. In the second week after planting, switch to an every other day schedule, unless the weather is very hot and dry. As the plants get established, transition to a weekly watering schedule. During the active growing season between spring and fall, strawberries need at least 1 inch of water per week, or often enough to keep the top layer of soil moist. As it depends on different factors how often strawberries need water, the watering frequency ranges between daily to once or twice a week (less if there is abundant rainfall). Strawberries need the most water during the fruit production stage and up the harvest. If there is no abundant rainfall during harvest time, that’s the time when you need to water strawberry plants the most often. As soon as you see flowers form, start monitoring the soil moisture closely. Because container plants dry out much faster than strawberries planted in garden soil, potted strawberries need to be watered more often. Check the soil moisture level every morning and water the strawberries once or twice daily, depending on the weather and how fast the soil dries out. The smaller the pot, the more often you need to water. Mulch to Maintain Moisture Levels Spreading a 1-inch layer of organic mulch such as wood chips around your strawberry plants keeps the soil moist and helps to reduce the watering frequency. Make sure not to cover the center (crown) from where new growth emerges. When to Water Strawberries While there is no hard-and-fast rule about how often you need to water strawberries, the best time of the day to water them is in the morning. Watering them early in the day prepares them for a hot day in the sun and it’s much better than at night when foliage takes much longer to dry, with the inherent risk of fungal diseases spreading. However, during a heat wave this should not deter you from watering the plants again in the evening if the soil is dry. Insert a finger in the soil—if the top inches feel dry, the plants should be watered no matter what time of the day it is. How to Water Strawberries The best method to water strawberries in garden soil is drip irrigation or a soaker hose. It not only saves water, but also keeps the foliage and fruit dry. Place the system so that it gets the soil around the plants wet but leave some distance to the growing berries. Water container-grown strawberries with a watering can, taking care not to get the leaves wet. No matter which watering method to use, water enough so that the soil is slightly damp but not dry or soggy. Signs of Overwatering Overwatering strawberries is not only wasteful, but it also has detrimental effects on the strawberries. These include: Root rot, a fungal infection that occurs in wet soil with poor drainage. Wilting of the plants, indicating oversaturated soil that lacks air pockets with oxygen. Brown or yellow leaves, especially at the tips of the leaves. Slow overall growth. Diluted flavor.1 If you have overwatered your strawberries, let them dry out before restarting a more conservative watering routine. Signs of Underwatering Typically, older strawberry plants are more prone to show signs of underwatering than young plants because they are less able to retain water. The following are typical indicators for underwatered plants: Dry, crisp leaves. Smaller leaves than those of properly watered strawberries. Less growth with fewer runners, crowns, and leaves. Fewer flowers, resulting in fewer and smaller fruits. Water your plants thoroughly and adjust your watering routine to avoid repeated water depravation, which weakens the plant further.

Know what kind of tomato plant you're sowing—determinate tomatoes need less space than indeterminate varieties. Determinate tomato varieties do better in containers or raised beds because they do not need as much space. Proper spacing of tomato plants protects from potential diseases and set plants up to fruit more. Whether you start your tomatoes from seed or buy tomato seedlings, keep in mind while you plant them that proper spacing is essential for successful growing. As a rule of thumb, allow 2 to 3 feet of space in all directions for each plant, though the exact spacing depends on what type of tomato you're planting.1 Read on to learn about properly spacing determinate vs. indeterminate tomatoes, the pitfalls of insufficient spacing, and other tomato growing tips. Spacing Determinate vs. Indeterminate Tomatoes Before planting, check the seed package or the plant label, which should tell you if the tomato variety is determinate or indeterminate. Both tomato types are vines, but determinate tomatoes require less space than indeterminate tomatoes so the exact spacing depends on what type of tomato you are planting. Tomato spacing is usually given in two measurements: space between plants and space between rows. Determinate Tomatoes Determinate tomatoes grow only to a certain height, then flower, set fruit, and ripen within a short timeframe. They can be planted as little as one to two feet apart (though ideally in the 18-14 inches range) in rows 3 to 4 feet apart. The plants are often compact enough that they don’t require support. Because of their limited growth, they also don’t need pruning. Indeterminate Tomatoes Indeterminate tomatoes are the exact opposite—they have a long growing season that only ends with the first fall frost. They need a much more generous spacing than determinate tomatoes and should be spaced at least three to four feet apart in rows at least four feet apart. Indeterminate tomatoes should always be staked, trellised, or caged. Pruning the plants is also essential to keep the vigorous growth under control. Why It's Important to Space Tomatoes Properly Proper spacing between plants is important to keep tomato plants healthy. Even with the best care, these plants are prone to numerous diseases including fungal diseases (like early blight and late blight) and viruses (like tomato mosaic virus). Plants growing in crowded conditions with poor air circulation are an ideal breeding ground for fungal diseases to spread. Generous spacing between tomato plants is also important to give you easy access for pruning, weeding, and harvesting without the risk of damaging neighboring plants. Signs Tomatoes Are Planted Too Close Together Unfortunately, not giving your tomato plants sufficient space will backfire sooner or later in the growing season. You'll know that you skimped on spaced if these symptoms are true of your plants. Poor harvest. The plants are growing slowly or producing a poor harvest because they are competing for nutrients and water. No visual borders. You cannot tell where one plant ends, and the next one starts because the vines have become entangled. Soggy foliage. The foliage remains wet for hours after rainfall even in warm summer weather because there is inadequate airflow. Difficulty harvesting. Harvesting the tomatoes is tedious because you cannot easily access the plants from all sides. Additional Tomato Growing Tips To make your tomato season a success, here are some other key tips for growing delicious tomatoes: Plant them in full sun where they get at least six to eight hours daily. Get the soil ready for planting with soil amendments and compost. Also, check if the pH is on target (between 6.2 and 6.8).2 Tomatoes: From Seedlings to Fruit. Penn State Extension. Fertilize them every two weeks during the growing season. Make sure to water the plants deeply and regularly at the base. Harvest them at the right time. Not all tomatoes are red when they are ripe so know the checklist of signs to look for.

Tomato plants are the most popular vegetable grown in the home garden, so all we want is for them to thrive and produce a bountiful harvest.1 Tomatoes Growing Guide. Cornell University. There are several ways to support tomatoes as they grow, but could coffee grounds be the secret ingredient to growing tomato plants successfully? The answer is no, but if composted properly, it won't hurt the plants. We share everything you need to know about using coffee grounds for tomato plants in the garden. Why Coffee Grounds Can Work for Tomatoes Coffee grounds contain nitrogen (about two percent) and trace amounts of phosphorus and potassium necessary for plant growth. But, scattering coffee grounds on the top of the soil or even working it in slightly is not effective. The caffeine residues in the used coffee grounds can actually suppress germination and slow the growth of some plants. The grounds don't release their beneficial components until organisms in the soil break them down—that can take months in a compost pile. The best way to use coffee grounds for tomato plants is to add them to your compost pile of leaves, grass clippings, and vegetable trimmings. Turn the compost pile often, and then use the organically rich mixture to enrich the garden or container soil before you add the tomato plants. Want more gardening tips? Sign up for our free gardening newsletter for our best-growing tips, troubleshooting hacks, and more! Should You Use Coffee Grounds to Fertilize Tomatoes? Coffee grounds should not be used as the sole fertilizer for tomato plants. The grounds do not contain the nutrient balance that tomatoes need to thrive, and adding too many grounds will affect the soil's pH. Tomato plants can tolerate slightly acid soils, as low as pH 5.5. But plants are the healthiest and most productive when the soil pH is 6.0 to 6.8. Suppose you use organically rich soil (that can contain some composted coffee grounds). In that case, you may not need to add a great deal of fertilizer when planting tomatoes or throughout the growing season. Benefits of Traditional Fertilizer vs. Coffee Grounds Coffee grounds contain just two percent nitrogen and mere traces of phosphorus and potassium, and it takes weeks or months for the grounds to break down enough to release these nutrients into the soil. Most tomato plants benefit from the application of a balanced NPK fertilizer a few times throughout the growing season. Avoid using a fertilizer that is high in nitrogen (N), as you will get excessive leaf formation and less fruit. Appropriate levels of potassium and phosphorus have positive effects on fruit sugar and acid content. Proper fertilization also produced tomatoes with more health-promoting carotenoids and red lycopene beneficial to human nutrition. Adequate plant nutrition is important in producing tasty tomatoes with better flavor and appearance.

If you're looking for a truly other-worldly fruit to grow on a plant that blooms only at night with large fragrant flowers, look no further than the dragon fruit plant. Also known as dragon fruit cactus or pitahaya, the plant is native to Mexico, Central America, and South America. Known for its bright pink, leathery skin with thorn-like fins, dragon fruit is sweet on the inside, featuring brightly colored flesh with tiny black seeds. In addition to producing unusual, nutritious, and showy fruit, these fast-growing perennial cacti also have ornamental value in your outdoor landscape. The plants grow up to 20 feet tall and produce aerial roots that allow them to cling to surfaces, creating their creeping, climbing habit. Smaller varieties of dragon fruit cactus are also grown indoors as houseplants. How to Plant Dragon Fruit Cactus When to Plant Dragon fruit cactus is best planted in the early spring to take full advantage of its growing season from March to August. Selecting a Planting Site To successfully grow your own dragon fruit plant, you need a location with well-drained soil in full sun to partial shade and ample space. This is a large, heavy cactus with a spreading habit and long stems. Make sure to plant it 15 to 25 feet away from your home and other structures, trees, and electrical lines. Spacing, Depth, and Support Dig a hole that is 3 to 4 times in diameter and 3 times as deep as the nursery container (this loosens up the soil and aids in root development). Refill the hole with enough soil so that when you place the plant in the hole, it is at the same level as it was in the container. Space plants at least 6 feet apart and support them with a strong trellis. Dragon Fruit Plant Care In tropical or subtropical conditions that mimic its natural habitat, dragon fruit cactus is a fast and vigorous grower. The most challenging part is to get the plants pollinated for fruit production. Light Although dragon fruit plants enjoy warm weather and are often planted in full sunlight, too much intense sun in dry and especially hot regions causes stem damage. If temperatures in your area are frequently near 100 degrees F, it's best to plant your cactus in a spot with partial shade. Too much shade, on the other hand, typically results in less abundant fruit production and the quality of your harvest may not be as impressive. Soil Dragon fruit cacti are not terribly fussy when it comes to soil type or pH level. The key is that the soil is moist, rich in organic matter, and well-draining. Mulch around the base of the plant—especially in drier regions—to help the soil retain its moisture. Water Although the dragon fruit plant has some drought tolerance, to produce a good fruit crop, it's best to water it consistently from the beginning of the bloom to harvest. However, excessive watering risks root rot and various forms of fungal disease. During the winter and into early spring, give the plant less water. Temperature and Humidity Dragon fruit plants are native to tropical regions, they won't survive in areas that experience freezing weather, especially if that freeze is prolonged. Temperatures ranging from 65 degrees F to 80 degrees F at the highest are considered optimal growing conditions. Fertilizer Dragon fruit cacti are fast growers and heavy feeders. During their first year, fertilize them every couple of months with a complete balanced fertilizer, ideally one with a high nutrient content, such as 20-20-20. Once the plants are well-established, they should do fine with just a couple of fertilizer applications in the spring and summer. In addition, amend the soil with compost or organic matter a couple of times a year. Pollination Some dragon fruit cultivars are self-incompatible, which means you may need two to three different varieties to ensure a better chance of fruit production through cross-pollination. The flowers of the dragon fruit plant open at night when there are no bees around; they are mostly pollinated by bats and moths. The flowers of some cultivars remain open in the early morning hours so you might get lucky and bees that are out and about early will find them. If you are growing a variety that is not self-pollinating and want to be sure the flowers get pollinated, you will have to resort to hand-pollination between dusk and dawn. Collect the pollen from the stamen of one variety and gently dab it onto the stigma of another variety. Use a fresh cotton swab for every plant. Types of Dragon Fruit Plant There are about 15 species of dragon fruit plants with different fruit colors, as well as numerous hybrid varieties. Popular ones include: ‘American Beauty’: a self-fertile cultivar of Hylocereus guatemalensis. It has red skin with green bracts and bright, magenta-colored flesh. ‘Dark Star’: a self-sterile hybrid with dark pink skin and purple flesh that has grape-like flavor. ‘David Bowie’: a self-fertile and self-pollinating cultivar of Hylocereusundatus with pinkish-red skin that is covered with numerous green bracts. The flesh is white with a lemony taste. ‘Purple Haze’: a vigorously growing, self-pollinating hybrid. The fruit is large, one to two pounds each, with pink skin and green bracts. The purple flesh is very sweet with hints of grape and kiwi and only a few seeds. ‘Zamorano’: a self-pollinating hybrid with dark red flesh and sweet, mild flavor. It is a slow grower, which makes it a good choice for containers. Harvesting Dragon Fruit You will know your dragon fruit is ready to harvest when the flaps on the pink outer skin starts to develop a withered appearance. If it's ripe, you should be able to twist it from the stem with ease. Any fruit that has fallen from the stem on its own tends to be overripe, so timing your harvest properly is important. If kept in the refrigerator, dragon fruit lasts up to two weeks. The large, edible flowers that are produced by the cactus are also impressive—they tend to be white and have a strong fragrance. However, they are usually nocturnal, so you'll only get to enjoy (and pick) them once the sun has gone down. How to Grow Dragon Fruit Plant in Pots For container-growing, choose a smaller variety such as 'Edgar’s Baby,' 'Alice,' 'Seoul Kitchen,' 'Yellow Dragon Fruit,' or 'Zamorano.' Use a five-gallon container that is at least 10 to 12 inches deep, with adequate drainage holes. To prevent the container from toppling over, a ceramic or terra-cotta pot works better than lightweight plastic. Fill it with nutrient-rich, neutral to acidic potting soil (not cactus soil). To further improve the drainage, place pebbles, stones, or bark at the bottom of the container. Provide a sturdy trellis for the plant to grow on. Pruning Pruning your dragon fruit cactus is key to minimizing the risk of fungal disease and insect infestation. Uncontrolled growth also leads to poor light penetration for the tangled center stems, which impacts fruit production. Regular pruning also encourages prolific flowering and prevents the plant from becoming too heavy for the trellis. Plan to periodically cut back any overly long, damaged, tangled, or dead stems as often as two or three times per year. If you're lucky (or have a younger plant), you may be able to get away with a single annual pruning session after you have harvested the fruit. Propagating Dragon Fruit Plant Propagating dragon fruit from stem cuttings is easy and yields fast results, unlike propagation from seed, which is not recommended because it takes up to seven years before the plant starts bearing fruit. Here is how to use stem cuttings to make a new plant: Take a 10- to 12-inch cutting from a healthy stem. Treat the cut end with fungicide. Let the cutting callus over in a dry, shady place for 7 to 10 days. Dust the cut end with rooting hormone and plant the cutting cut-side down in a pot filled with a well-draining potting mix. Water it lightly and keep it moderately moist. Once the cutting has started to root (check by gently tugging on it), gradually move it to a location with more sunlight. It will take the cuttings 4 to 6 months to develop a good root system, after which they are ready for planting in the landscape or larger pots. When planted from a cutting, you may have a harvest within one to three years. Potting and Repotting A mature dragon fruit plant requires a 25- to 30-gallon size container with a depth of 20 to 24 inches. Given the fast growth rate of the plant, it will require frequent repotting to a larger container with fresh potting soil whenever the plant becomes root-bound. Keep in mind that the roots of the plant are very small and hairy and repotting it requires extra caution in order not to damage them. Overwintering Overwintering measures are only necessary below USDA zone 10, where dragon fruit plant can be grown in containers. Bring the plants indoors when daytime temperatures drop below 65 F and there is any danger of frost. In the spring, wait until all danger of frost is past and the daytime temperatures are consistently above 70 degrees F. In fall and winter, reduce the watering, as the plant goes dormant. Common Pests & Plant Diseases Depending on where you live, wild animals could find your dragon fruit crop appealing. You may need to take measures to protect your cactus and its fruit from rats, raccoons, birds, and more. The plants are also attractive to ants, mealybugs, mites, and thrips. Potential diseases are stem rot or canker, reddish-brown, yellowish, or white spots and lesions on the stems and blades (leaves). Rot and canker can be difficult to contain on a dragon fruit plant. Remove the damaged, infected parts and treat the plant with a fungicide. To avoid these types of issues, ensure your plant gets the right amount of sun, moisture, and air circulation.

Mango trees, Mangifera indica, make attractive houseplants similar to Ficus or palm trees. They feature a canopy of long, slender, glossy leaves atop a trunk that can grow 10 feet tall, This tropical thrives outdoors only in zones 9 and higher so is grown in pots in most temperate zones Container-grown plants require special care and a lot of patience to produce fruit. Plan on anywhere from eight to ten years for your tree to produce blooms. From flower to ripe fruit takes between three and six months. Choose and Prepare Mango Seeds Ripest mangoes have the best quality seeds. Once the fruit is removed, clean the seeds for better germination. Wrap them in moist paper towels and set aside for several days until completely dry. Remove the paper towel and brush off loose debris. Use a sharp scissor to cut open the seam along the long edge of the hull. It's tough so you may need a sharp knife to pry the seam apart. Insert the knife just under the inside edge and work the hull open to avoid damaging the seed. Once loosened, pry it open using two hands. The seed comes out easily. Discard seeds with mushy spots and discoloration. Seeds have two other thin, papery coverings. Remove the top one. Now you are ready to germinate your mango seeds. How to Plant Mango Seeds Mango seeds can be germinated in two ways. The plastic bag method is quicker but involves an extra step. Germinate in Plastic Bag You'll need a paper towel, sealable plastic bag, loose potting mix, and a 2- to 3-gallon pot with drainage holes. Follow these steps. Wet a paper towel and wring out excess water. Wrap the mango seed inside the paper towel, place the wrapped mango seed inside a plastic bag, and seal it. Keep the sealed bag in a warm (70°F), dark location. Check the seed regularly to make sure the paper towel stays damp and rewet when needed. A white root or roots should begin to form in about seven days. If roots have not yet developed, rewrap the seed and place it back in the bag. Continue to check every couple of days for roots to appear. As soon as the first root appears, remove the paper towel. Fill your container with quality potting mix. Perlite can be added for extra drainage. Place the seed, flat side down on top of the potting mix, and cover it completely with more medium. Water the pot from the bottom by setting it in a container filled with warm water. Place it in a warm location (70°F to 90°F) with bright, indirect light. A shoot should break through the soil in two to three days. Roots and shoots emerge from the same spot on the seed. How to Care for Mango Seedlings Mango trees are tropical plants that thrive on plenty of sun, warmth and humidity. In climates with warm summers and cold winters grow them as container plants overwintered indoors or in a heated greenhouse. Light Mango trees need six to eight hours of bright sun every day. Light exposure for seedlings should be bright but indirect until the plant matures at around four months when a small trunk is well rooted with a canopy of leaves. Expose young trees gradually to more direct sunlight daily. Growers in northern zones may need to supplement with grow lights. Soil These trees are not picky about soil but grow best in well-draining, organically fertile loam. They tolerate soils from slightly alkaline to slightly acidic from 5.5 to 7.5 pH. Container grown trees kept as houseplants may do well in cactus mix. Water Keep soil evenly moist while growing out seedlings. Mature plants are watered less frequently when the top 2 inches of soil dry out. Irrigate potted plants thoroughly then allow excess to drain before returning the plant to its saucer. Water garden seedlings every other day until established then reduce frequency to once weekly. Temperature and Humidity Maintain temperature between 65°F and 90°F. Plants tolerate dips as low as 40°F but exposure to 30°F for extended periods causes damage and loss. Humidity levels between 60 and 80 percent are ideal. Houseplants benefit from pebble trays or place them in groupings with other plants to raise humidity. Fertilizer Feed container plants once a month during the growing season with a balanced liquid fertilizer. Feed garden grown plants with a NPK 10-10-10 during growing seasons for the first four years then switch to a fertilizer higher in phosphorous and potassium to encourage flowering. Transplant Mango Seedlings Plan to transplant in spring or early summer during active growth. Mango trees grow rapidly and should be potted up when roots fill the container. To pot up, choose a pot one size larger. Transplant into the garden at about four months as long as the tree has a well-developed root system. Choose a spot that receives full sun. Dig a hole deep and wide enough to accommodate the tap root and root ball. Set the tree at the same level as in the pot and backfill. Tamp soil down and water well. Pests and Diseases Container-grown mango trees kept indoors are vulnerable to typical houseplant pests including mites, aphids, mealy bugs, and scale. Insecticidal soap or horticultural oils eliminate them but repeat applications may be necessary. High levels of humidity predispose mango trees to fungal infections including powdery mildew. Prevent these problems by watering at soil level in the morning and providing good air circulation around plants.

After a productive tomato growing season, it’s hard to watch your tomato plants die back with frost. But, here's a gardener's secret: if you have the right tools and a little space, you can keep tomato plants alive through winter and enjoy your favorite tomatoes for years to come. To get you started, here are 3 easy techniques for overwintering tomato plants indoors or out in your garden, plus a selection of my favorite cold hardy tomato varieties for chilly weather. Can You Grow Tomatoes Year-Round? Tomatoes are heat-loving plants that grow perennially in zones 10 and up. But in chillier locations, these plants are typically cultivated as annuals and replaced with new tomato plants each spring. However, if you’re open to overwintering tomato plants indoors, you can keep tomatoes growing year-round in any climate. Want more gardening tips? Sign up for our free gardening newsletter for our best-growing tips, troubleshooting hacks, and more! Can You Overwinter Tomato Plants? Yes! While many gardeners pull up their tomato plants in fall, tomatoes can be overwintered outdoors in zones 10 and up or in homes or heated greenhouses in colder locations. In fact, tomatoes are surprisingly easy to overwinter indoors and they have many of the same care needs as tropical houseplants. Overwintering Options for Tomatoes Growers have several options when it comes to overwintering tomatoes. Tomatoes can either be overwintered outdoors with season extension products, or they can be overwintered inside as potted plants or cuttings. Which method you choose to use will depend on your growing zone and how much space you have for growing tomatoes. How to Overwinter Tomatoes Indoors Overwintering potted tomatoes indoors or in a greenhouse takes a bit more work, but it’s the only overwintering option that may allow you to harvest tomatoes year-round. Prepare Your Tomatoes Prepping tomatoes for overwintering begins in late summer to early fall. Carefully inspect your plants for signs of pests and disease and select only the healthiest plants for overwintering. Continue to water these plants regularly until you move them indoors, but stop fertilizing them in late summer. Prune Carefully Smaller tomato plants are easier to move indoors, so pick up your sterilized pruners and carefully prune away extra stems, suckers, and damaged leaves. Larger plants should be pruned back a bit more severely so that you’re left with about 1 to 2 feet of the plant’s main stem and a few healthy branches. You can also prune away any lingering fruit and flowers to help your plants transition more easily to indoor living. Pot (or Repot) Plants If you want to overwinter tomatoes in your garden, you’ll need to transplant them into roomy and well-draining planters that are at least 14 inches in diameter. To start, carefully dig up tomatoes before frost arrives, and make sure to leave as much of the plant’s roots attached as possible. Plant your tomatoes in pots filled with a well-draining potting mix and water them in. If you’re growing larger tomato plants and plan to harvest fruit indoors, you may want to add a small trellis or stake to your pot at this time to support your plants as they grow. Acclimate Tomatoes Indoors Before bringing your tomatoes indoors for good, check your plants carefully for pests and slowly acclimate your plants to your home or greenhouse by moving them inside for just a few hours each day. Continue this process over the next week or two, gradually extending the amount of time your plants spend indoors until they’re fully acclimated to the temperatures and light levels of indoor life. Provide Indoor Plants with the Right Care Place plants in front of a sunny window or under a grow light and water them regularly to keep the soil from drying out. Bright windows and temperatures that are above freezing should be sufficient for keeping tomato plants alive through winter. Provide your plants with warmer temperatures, monthly fertilizer, and a grow light if you want to grow tomatoes. Pruning off the fruit, flowers, and wayward stems keeps tomato plants healthier through winter. Hand-pollinate the flowers if you want your plants to fruit. Transplant Tomatoes Outdoors Come Spring. When spring returns and temperatures are consistently above 55 degrees Fahrenheit, harden off your plants over a week or two by moving them outdoors during the day and inside at night. When your plants can tolerate full sun and outdoor weather, position their pots in a sunny spot or transplant them back into your veggie beds. Soon enough, you’ll be harvesting more tomatoes from your overwintered plants. How to Overwinter Outdoors While cool weather gardeners need to overwinter tomato plants indoors, gardeners in USDA growing zones 10 and up can overwinter tomatoes right in their gardens. This method works for both potted tomatoes and tomatoes in inground and raised beds, although potted plants may need a little more insulation. For best results, choose cold-hardy tomato varieties for overwintering. Prepare your plants: To get your tomatoes ready for winter, stop fertilizing your plants in late summer to early fall, but continue to water your plants regularly. Do some pruning: Before temperatures dip, prune away any new growth on your tomatoes and cut your plants back so that you’re left with just a foot or two of the plant’s main stems. Insulate your tomatoes: Add a 2 to 3-inch layer of natural mulch around the base of your plants to protect the roots from cold. Uncover plants in spring. When spring returns and the danger of frost has passed, go ahead and uncover your plants, rake away excess mulch, and start tending your tomatoes as usual! How to Overwinter With Cuttings If you don’t want to overwinter entire tomato plants, you can propagate your favorite tomatoes from stem cuttings or tomato suckers. This technique is a great space saver and can also help you salvage tomato plants damaged during the growing season. Take your cuttings: Before frost arrives, head out into your garden and take 4 to 6-inch long cuttings from your tomato plants. Propagate the cuttings in soil or water: Inspect cuttings carefully for pests, pinch off the flowers and damaged leaves, and remove any leaves that are growing from the lower portion of your cuttings. For water propagation, fill a clear glass container with an inch or two of water and place your cuttings in the water so that the cut stem ends are fully submerged and the leaves are above the water line. For soil propagation, dip the cut stem ends of your cuttings into rooting hormone, plant the cuttings 1 to 2 inches deep in pots filled with potting mix or seed starting mix, and cover the cuttings and pots with clear plastic bags to conserve humidity. Care for your plants through winter. Place your cuttings in a warm spot that receives bright, indirect light, and continue to care for your cuttings for a few weeks until they root. Transplant tomatoes outdoors in spring. Once your plants are properly hardened off, transplant them into pots or your garden beds. Why Should You Overwinter Tomatoes? Overwintering tomatoes is a fun experiment, but it has a few major advantages too. By keeping tomatoes alive through winter, you can extend your growing season significantly. You can harvest tomatoes earlier the following year. Overwintering tomatoes can save you money. It's a great way to preserve hard-to-find and heirloom tomatoes, as well as your favorite and most productive plants. 5 Cold-Hardy Tomato Varieties While frost hardy tomatoes don’t exist, some tomatoes are more cold tolerant than others. If you want to extend your tomato growing season or overwinter tomatoes outdoors in mild climates, these cold tolerant tomato varieties are hard to beat! Glacier. With an impressively long harvest season, ‘Glacier’ is one of the first tomatoes to fruit in summer and the last tomatoes to fruit in fall! Moskvich. An early-season favorite, ‘Moskvich’ is resistant to cracking and grows well in greenhouses. Siberian. Undeterred by the cold, ‘Siberian’ continues to fruit even when temperatures drop to 38 degrees Fahrenheit! Sub-Arctic Plenty. One of the fastest growing heirlooms you can find, ‘Sub-Arctic Plenty’ is ready to harvest just 42 days after transplanting. Oregon Spring. Another early producer, ‘Oregon Spring’ is resistant to verticillium wilt and produces fruit about 60 days after transplanting.

How to Harvest Watermelon Seeds Harvesting watermelons for seeds is simple, but it's important to follow a certain procedure to ensure food safety: Remove the melon: Cut the watermelon from the vine with shears or a sharp knife. Cut close to the stem but leave some of the stem on the melon. Wash the melon: Gently scrub the watermelon with a vegetable brush under clean, running water. Do not use soap.1 Dry the melon: Pat the melon dry with a cloth or paper towel. Hand-drying removes more bacteria from the rind than air-drying. Remove the rind: Cut off each end of the melon, stand the melon upright, then cut away the rind. Use a sharp knife and cut along the melon's curve. Cut the melon: Cut the melon lengthwise into slabs, each slab about half an inch thick. Pick out the melon seeds: Scrape out the melon seeds with a fork. How to Save Watermelon Seeds Wash, dry, and store the watermelon seeds until the next planting season. Remove the flesh: Remove as much of the watermelon flesh or pulp by hand. Wash the seeds: Place the watermelon seeds in a kitchen colander or strainer and wash them with cool water. Remove all of the remaining watermelon flesh. Dry the seeds: Air-dry the melon seeds on coated paper plates, waxed paper, or on clean mesh window screen material. Store the seeds: Store the seeds in airtight, waterproof bags, jars, or containers in a cool, dark location. When to Harvest Watermelons for Seeds Harvest watermelon seeds when you harvest the watermelons for eating, usually in spring or summer. You can also harvest watermelons for seeds only, which affords a broader harvesting period. Watermelons for Eating and Seeds Watermelons should be harvested at just the right time. Watermelons do not ripen off the vine. If you harvest them too early, they will be watery and not sweet. Signs that it's time to harvest the watermelon seeds: Dry tendril: Dried curlicue on the vine closest to the watermelon Hollow sound: Resonant, hollow sound when gently rapped Heaviness: A heavy, dense feel when picked up Yellow underneath: A yellow (not white) oval under the melon, where it rests on the ground Watermelons for Seeds Only When harvesting watermelons only for their seeds, they can be harvested when ripe or left on the vine. When reserving some melons on the vine, let the melons soften slightly but do not let them rot. Leaving seed-only melons on the vine can improve the quality of the seeds. Do not eat the melon's flesh. Types of Seeds to Plant Harvest and save black watermelon seeds for planting. Do not use white seeds. Types of watermelons to plant include: Black Diamond: Popular for their enormous size, Black Diamond watermelons are juicy and sweet but require consistent watering. Charleston Grey: Modestly sized, Charleston Greys top the scales at around 40 pounds and have thick rinds often used for watermelon rind pickles. Crimson Sweet: Crimson Sweet watermelons grow easily in a wide range of melon-friendly climates, and the flesh is uniquely sweet. This melon produces few seeds, so more melons must be harvested to gather the seeds. How to Plant Watermelon Seeds Grow watermelons from seeds either by starting the seeds indoors in pots or flats or by planting the seeds directly in the ground. Watermelons need warm weather without intermittent cold spells, so plant the seeds after the last spring frost. In the U.S. south and southwest, the last spring freeze occurs as early as January. In western mountainous regions, it can be as late as May.34 Watermelon seeds germinate fastest in soil that's between 70 and 95°F. At the very least, the soil should be 65°F, and the seeds should be planted four inches deep. Consult the USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map to learn the optimal watermelon growing season for your area.

Peach-picking season extends from June to August, and they are ready to harvest during that period when their skins turn yellowish-red—that's how you know they're perfectly ripe. If you want to grow the tastiest peaches, these quick and easy tips will help you determine exactly when to pick peaches for sweet and juicy fruit every time. When to Pick Peaches Some varieties of peach trees fruit earlier than others, but most peaches are harvested from late June through August. That said, various factors can influence when peach trees fruit—chilly spring weather, drought, and other environmental conditions can delay peach harvesting season. Fresh peaches taste best when they mature outdoors on the tree, but harvesting can be a bit of a balancing act. If you pick peaches too early, you’ll have hard, flavorless fruit. But if you pick peaches too late, your harvest may turn mushy or get gobbled up by birds. Rather than relying on the calendar date, it’s usually best to pick peaches when the fruit displays particular signs of ripeness. Want more gardening tips? Sign up for our free gardening newsletter for our best-growing tips, troubleshooting hacks, and more! 5 Signs Your Peaches Are Ripe If you want to time your peach harvest for perfectly ripe fruit, watch for these signs: Color. Ripe peaches should have uniformly, golden yellow skins, which may display tinges of red, orange, or pink. If the peaches still have green coloration, they aren’t ready yet. Scent. Underripe peaches don’t emit much scent, while fully ripened fruit can be incredibly fragrant. In fact, a peach tree laden with ripe peaches can perfume a small garden with a sugary sweet fragrance. Shape. Peaches become rounder as they ripen, while underripe peaches look like green olives with a slightly elongated shape. Feel. If you harvest a peach and it still feels firm or crunches when you bite into it, it’s not ripe. Fully ripened peaches should be slightly soft and give a little when you gently press into their skins. Taste. Of course, you can also test whether or not peaches are ready to pick by trying a taste of a peach or two. When the fruit is as sweet and juicy as you like, it’s time to harvest. How to Pick Peaches Peaches ripen at approximately the same time, although fruit towards the exterior of the tree and the tips of the tree branches typically ripens a little earlier than fruit growing at the center of the plant. When your peaches are ready to harvest: Grasp a peach in one hand and the supporting branch in the other hand. Give the peach a little twist with your fingers. If the peach is fully ripe, it should detach easily from the tree. After harvesting, gently place peaches in a bucket, basket, or harvesting apron and handle them gently to prevent bruised skin. It’s best to avoid washing peaches until you’re just about to use them as excess moisture can speed up decay. To maintain freshness, keep ripe peaches in the fridge, or freeze, dehydrate, or can them for even longer storage. What to Do If You Pick Peaches Too Early While it’s best to allow peaches to ripen on the tree, if you happen to harvest peaches a little early, don’t worry. Unlike citrus fruits and cherries, peaches can continue to ripen after harvesting. To ripen peaches: Place your peach harvest on your countertop and allow it to ripen out of direct sun for a few days at room temperature. Or, place the peaches in a brown paper bag to help them ripen even faster.

The tomatillo plant (Physalis philadelphica) bears small, globe-shaped fruits of the same name. It resembles an indeterminate tomato plant in its vining growth habit but its green, purple, or yellow fruits are covered in a papery husk—which has earned the plant another common name, the husk tomato. Like tomatoes, the tomatillo is a member of the nightshade family (Solanaceae). Tomatillo plants are native to Mexico and Central America but widely grown for their tasty, tangy fruit that matures in about 75 to 100 days after planting and is a go-to ingredient for salsa verde. In its native climate, tomatillo plants are perennials but in most areas they’re cultivated as annuals. How to Plant Tomatillos When to Plant It’s best to plant tomatillo plants as transplants in the garden after the last frost, which usually corresponds with mid-March or mid-April, depending on the growing zone. In hot weather climates, you can also plant tomatillo plants in the fall or winter months. Where to Plant Choose a planting spot with well-draining soil; if soil drainage is poor, plant in raised beds. Tomatillo plants are also a good choice for vegetable container gardening. It’s also important to note that you shouldn’t plant tomatillos in a spot where you’ve grown other nightshade crops, like tomatoes, potatoes, peppers, or eggplants to minimize the risk of certain plant diseases and restore nutrients to the soil. Companion plants for tomatillos include basil and carrots. Spacing, Depth, and Support Tomatillo plants should be buried deeply to promote extensive root development; about two-thirds of the plant can be below the soil line, with just a few pairs of leaves emerging above the surface. Because of their bushy growth, tomatillo plants should have at least 2 feet of space between each plant, with rows spaced three feet apart. Compared to a tomato plant, a tomatillo plant is lighter and requires less external support. That being said, it’s still a good idea to use a stake, trellis, or cage to support the plant and ensure adequate airflow. In addition, at least two tomatillo plants are necessary for fruit production. While a single tomatillo plant will produce lush foliage, cross-pollination with a neighboring tomatillo plant is required if you want to harvest tomatillos in due time. Tomatillo Plant Care Light Choose a planting site that receives full sun—at least six to eight hours each day. Abundant light exposure increases flower production, which is the precursor to prolific fruit production. Soil Well-draining soil is the most important factor when it comes to soil type. Heavy soils that hold excessive moisture can expose the plant to root rot. The best soil conditions are rich and loamy with a slightly acidic to neutral pH level. Water Tomatillo plants do best with regular watering but be careful not to overwater the plant. Only water when the top few inches of soil is dry to the touch. These plants exhibit moderate drought tolerance. Because of the risk of fungal disease, it’s best to water the plant at its base rather than drenching the foliage. These plants do exceptionally well with a drip irrigation system. Temperature and Humidity Tomatillos are cold-sensitive and grow best when temperatures are between 65°F and 80°F. If the temperature climbs too high, it can adversely affect fruit development.1 Fertilizer The best fertilizer for tomatillo plants is a low-nitrogen formula like 5-10-10. This will ensure that the plant receives adequate nutrients to support root and flower development without encouraging excessive foliage growth that can stifle the production of tasty tomatillos. Types of Tomatillos Green Varieties ‘Tamayo’: With fruit that is about 3 inches in diameter, this is one of the largest tomatillo varieties and the fruit has bright green skin. ‘Toma Verde’: This is one of the more common varieties of tomatillo plants because it matures quickly (in about 60 days) and produces medium-to-large fruit that is commonly used in salsa recipes. ‘Rio Grande Verde’: This plant produces some of the largest tomatillo fruits and does so in abundance. Purple or Yellow Varieties ‘Purple Coban’: A smaller tomatillo variety that yields fruit about 1 inch in diameter with a deep purple skin when ripe. 'Amarylla’: A yellow variety of tomatillo with a sweeter taste. ‘De Mipla’: This Mexican heirloom variety produces small fruits an inch or less in diameter with a mottled green and purple appearance and a strong flavor. Tomatillos vs. Tomatoes Tomatillo plants and tomato plants have similar growing requirements since both plants prefer full sun and need the support of a stake or cage while growing. However, tomatillo plants require a second plant for cross-pollination while a tomato plant is self-fertile, meaning you can plant just one and still yield a crop of tasty tomatoes. The mature fruit of a tomatillo plant is also covered in a papery husk and has a tarter, more acidic flavor profile and denser flesh than the juicy, soft, and sweet flesh of a ripe tomato. Harvesting Tomatillos You’ll know it’s time to harvest the tomatillos from your plant when the fruit fills the paper husk, which will turn from green to tan and may even start to split open. To harvest tomatillos, gently grasp the fruit in the palm of your hand and give it a gentle twist and tug, which should snap the stem and release the fruit. Alternatively, you can snip the stem with scissors or garden shears but take note that ripe tomatillos should release easily from the stem. If the fruit has a lot of resistance, it may not be fully ripe yet. How to Grow Tomatillos in Pots Nightshades, which include tomatillos along with other vegetables like eggplants and potatoes, can easily be grown in containers or pots. To do so, choose a deep pot with a generous circumference to accommodate the bushy growth of the tomatillo plant. A 5-gallon bucket or pot (or larger) will provide enough room for the plant to develop. Keep in mind that you’ll need two tomatillo plants, so prepare two pots with high-quality potting soil. Tomatillos grown in pots have similar care requirements so choose a spot with full sun and provide a means of support for the growing plant. It’s also worth noting that plants in pots tend to have an increased need for water and nutrients so you’ll likely need to be more vigilant about watering and fertilize more regularly. Pruning It’s not necessary to prune a tomatillo plant but you might do so to improve the strength of the plant’s main stem and improve airflow. If you prune, do so by removing any suckers that start to grow below the lowest flower on the plant. Propagating Tomatillos Tomatillos propagate easily and in fact, the stem of a trailing tomatillo plant is likely to grow roots when left in contact with the ground. The easiest way to propagate a tomatillo plant is by means of a cutting and you can root it in soil or water. Here’s how to do it: Gather a pair of sharp pruning shears or scissors and cut a 6-inch section of stem from the tomatillo plant. Remove any leaves from the lower half of the stem and, if desired, dip the cut end into rooting hormone (although it’s usually not crucial to growth for this plant). Note: You can also utilize a sucker removed during pruning to serve as a cutting for your new tomatillo plant. Plant the cut end of the stem deep into nutrient-rich, well-draining soil in your garden or in a container, with just the leaves just emerging over the soil line. Alternatively, you can put the cutting in a jar of clean water, with the leaves above the water line. For cuttings grown in soil: After several weeks, look for indications of rooting such as new leaf growth or light resistance when you gently tug on the stem. Once established, you can transplant to another location in your garden if desired. For cuttings grown in water: Once you observe root growth, transplant them to a container or directly into the garden. How to Grow Tomatillos From Seed To start tomatillos from seed indoors, begin the process by sowing seeds about six to eight weeks before the anticipated final frost of the season. Use small containers or seed starter trays filled with soilless potting mix and push tomatillo seeds about ¼-inch deep into the potting mix. Water to maintain soil moisture and keep temperatures between 70°F and 80°F for germination, which takes between one to two weeks. After sprouting, water regularly and expose the plants to bright light, using a grow light if necessary. Once the final frost has passed and the seedlings have taken root and have about a half dozen leaves, they’re ready to be transplanted into the garden. Overwintering In most growing zones, the tomatillo plant is grown as an annual and will need to be replanted each year. However, in areas with short or mild winters, it might be possible to overwinter a tomatillo plant and some varieties exhibit better cold-resistance than others. To overwinter a tomatillo plant, reduce watering as cold weather approaches and mulch the plant to a depth of about 2 inches prior to the first cold snap. In advance of expected frost, cover the plant with a frost blanket to reduce the risk of damage. For tomatillo plants grown in containers, move the plant to a sheltered location for overwintering, like a covered porch or an indoor location. Common Pests and Plant Diseases The husk covering the fruit of the tomatillo plants provides a natural defense against pest damage. But if you don’t support the tomatillo plant with a stake or cage and allow it to trail on the ground, fruit in contact with the ground might succumb to damage from slugs or snails.2 The tomatillo plant is subject to many of the same diseases as a tomato plant. Blight and foliar fungal diseases are the chief concern. To offset the chance of developing these issues, be sure to water the plant from the base, rather than soaking the foliage with overhead watering, and prune the plant as needed to promote good airflow.