gardening

Looking for another edible edition to your garden? Pepper plants are a winning choice. With a range of low-maintenance varieties available and a pepper to suit every garden size and tastebud preference, you'll quickly be able to grow your own harvest. As with any new crop in the garden, there are helpful tips and care requirements worth understanding that'll make the process easier for you, leading to more peppers and fewer stressful days trying to communicate with a not-so-happy plant. Once you've settled on your fruit (or veggie to some) of choice, brush up your knowledge on these tips and care pointers, below. Your Quick Guide for Growing Peppers Give peppers at least six hours of full light each day Plant peppers in slightly acidic soil that's warm and moist Grow peppers after the last frost so they stay warm and healthy Peppers can take up to three months to be ripe and ready for harvesting Pick peppers based on what ripeness looks like for their variety Which Peppers Should You Grow? Excited by the thought of growing a peck of peppers? Start by choosing the right variety. Zahid Adnan, gardening expert and founder of The Plant Bible, recommends starting with versatile varieties like bell peppers, jalapeños, or Anaheim peppers. "They're relatively easy to grow and offer a spectrum of flavors and heat levels," he says. Starting Peppers From Seed Growing peppers from seed isn't too difficult and is one of the more popular ways, aside from transplanting or buying young plants. The best indication of when you can start peppers from seeds will come from the last frost date in your area. Adnan says you can plant the seeds indoors eight to 10 weeks before the last frost date. Gather small containers for the seeds and push them down into warm and moist seed starting mix. (He says to aim for a temperature between 70 to 80 degrees Fahrenheit). This gives them time to start cultivating before they're brought outside. Planting Peppers Whether you've planted from seed or are planning to transplant, you'll likely want to bring your pepper plants outside for the best chance of survival and the most comfortable life. "Once seedlings have developed true leaves, transplant them into larger pots or directly into the garden after all danger of frost has passed," says Adnan. After planting, you can expect peppers to start fruiting and reach maturity between 65 and 85 days depending on the care they receive and the variety of pepper, according to Adnan. Caring for Peppers Once your peppers are in the ground, they won't ask for anything too strenuous—most varieties are relatively easy plants to grow and cultivate. By ensuring they get the light, water, and soil necessary for them to thrive, you can have a healthy harvest in a few months. Outside of the basics, Adnan notes to be aware of how your variety of pepper grows. While some stay lower to the ground, taller varieties will need some kind of trellis or stake. This supports them as they grow and will prevent breakage under the weight of fruit. Light Peppers love sunlight, whether planted in a bed or in containers on your deck. Adnan says they should be positioned to receive at least 6 to 8 hours of sunlight. While they love sun, just be conscious of any recently pruned areas that may not be used to that level of exposure and can burn or leave room for the fruits to burn. Soil Peppers do best in slightly acidic soil—a pH between 6.0 and 6.8 is ideal. Soil should drain well and stay warm as they grow, hence why post-frost planting is important. This is particularly important for pepper plants and seeds that have been sown or transplanted. As for fertilization? Adnan says the occasional sprinkling of a balanced fertilizer is okay. Too much can boost the look of the leaves but hinder fruit production. Watering Balanced watering is important, too. Adnan says regular watering is important for keeping the soil moist. Ensure that you distribute it evenly across the pepper patch or pot and it's not funneling to just one part of the soil. Moisture is key, but be careful not to overwater. "Mulching around the base of the plants can help retain moisture and suppress weeds," he adds. Pepper Problems & How to Fix Them Peppers can run into a few issues while they're growing. These are the most common pests and diseases that can afflict your plants and how to deal with them. Pests The most common pests that go after peppers, according to Adnan, are aphids, flea beetles, and pepper maggots—the latter being fly larvae that specifically target peppers1 by burrowing into the fruit. Adnan says the best way to defend your plants is through frequent monitoring and using insecticidal soap or neem oil to combat infestations. Plant Diseases There are a handful of diseases that peppers are capable of developing. These include bacterial leaf spot, powdery mildew, and phytophthora blight. While they may sound disastrous, preventing them is fairly straightforward. Adnan says to focus on measures such as crop rotation, proper spacing, and avoiding overhead watering. Harvesting Peppers As mentioned, peppers can take a couple of months to appear on your plant. It will depend on the pepper variety, but when the fruit has fully become its intended color and size and has a glossy sheen, they're likely ready to be plucked. If you're worried about pepper picking influencing the growth rate, Adnan is here to ease your concerns. He notes regular harvesting can encourage your plant to produce more fruit.

Knowing when to harvest okra will make a big difference in how it tastes. Tender, young okra is delicious but large, older pods will be tough and fibrous. The first okra pods should be ready to harvest about 60 to 70 days after planting when pods are 2 to 3 inches long. Okra pods develop continuously over the summer, growing very fast on the plant, and should be harvested every two days (or more!) Read on for tips on harvesting okra, including signs they're ready and how to do it the right way. How to Know Okra Is Ready to Pick It's been 2-3 months since you planted. Okra should be ready to harvest 60 to 70 days after planting the seeds. Transplanted seedlings from seeds germinated indoors will produce pods in about 40 to 55 days. Okra flowers are wilting away. Okra plants produce large, yellow flowers that look much like a hibiscus. Once the okra blooms have wilted, the pods will form within a few days. Pods are 2-3 inches long. The pods should be picked when they are about two to three inches long—bigger is not better for okra pods. Pods are vibrantly colored. The pods should be vibrant green or purple, depending on the variety you are growing. Pale pods can be woody. How to Harvest Okra the Right Way While the pods can be snapped off the stem by hand, it's best to use garden shears or a sharp knife to minimize damage to the plant. Leave a short stem about one-fourth inch at the top of the okra pod. Keep a bucket or basket close by to collect the pods—they are easily bruised if handled too much. Okra is best eaten freshly harvested from the garden. If storing, do not wash the pods before placing them in the refrigerator vegetable bin. If properly harvested, handled gently, and stored at temperatures of 45 to 50 °F., the pods should last for about seven days. 7 Additional Tips for Growing Okra Round-podded okra varieties (Louisiana Green Velvet, Emerald, Stewarts Zeebest, Peter Pan, and Greeny Splendor) actually do remain tender at larger pod sizes. Choose them for slicing and food preservation. With optimal growing conditions and care, when harvested regularly, okra plants will continue to produce blooms and pods for up to 12 weeks. Each flower produces one okra pod. The flowers are edible and make great additions to salads. However, don’t pick them all—the flower, once pollinated, produces the pods. While the okra plant is a single stalk, its leaves need plenty of room to grow. Okra should be planted 9-12 inches apart with 3-6 feet between rows. Okra can be cut back in late summer to produce new growth and extend the harvest season. When harvest time is over, okra pods can be left on the plant to dry to save seed for next year. Okra needs full sun, warm temperatures, and well-draining soil to thrive.

The eastern red cedar is a slow-growing conifer native to eastern North America that is extremely adaptable to various soils and growing conditions. The species' name is a misnomer, with it being a juniper. The adaptable species can grow almost anywhere, giving it a variety of garden uses. It has allowed horticulturalists to develop specific cultivars to suit landscape needs for almost any situation. Overall the wild type of the eastern red cedar is an attractive needled evergreen with excellent ornamental value due to its winter interest that comes from its startling blue berry-like fruit and gorgeous bark. For those looking to add ecological value, these same cones provide a favorite food source to native birds and wildlife while its lush condensed foliage makes for excellent habitat. An eastern red cedar or one of its many cultivars may be an excellent choice if you want a conifer to add to your landscape. Although not invasive, these are colonizing trees, so if you plant one, expect many more to pop up in the surrounding area. Attributes of the Eastern Red Cedar Pyramidal Salt tolerant Cultivars available Transplants well Good for bonsai Wildlife value Deer tolerant Black walnut resistant Air pollution resistant Caring for an Eastern Red Cedar Planting an eastern red cedar can be a big decision that takes a bit of thought. It can be a large tree that grows slowly, meaning it will be around for a while. Luckily while it can be a huge investment space-wise, its relative ease of care means you will not need to sink much time into the care of the tree once it becomes established in the landscape. Fortunately, being a pioneer species (i.e., a hardy species that is the first to colonize barren environments), it does not take much to establish itself in a given location. Care for the species is concerned mostly with protecting other trees in the area from pathogens that the eastern red cedar carries and ensuring that the species' potential for weediness does not allow it to overtake areas where seedlings are not wanted. Light A young eastern red cedar will do well growing in full sun to part shade, but as it matures, it will do best in full sun areas. Trees grown in less than the full sun that must compete for sunlight will settle into a low-growing shrub-like habit and exhibit a form expressed by more horizontal than vertical growth. If two trees compete, consider removing the smaller of the two to allow the more dominant one to benefit from the full sun as it establishes itself. Soil Of least concern to an eastern red cedar's overall vigor and health is the soil conditions it is planted in. The species does well in poor soils that others would not, which makes it able to thrive in the most intolerable conditions. When planted in good conditions, it prefers it will perform exceedingly well, establish itself quickly, and show a marked increase in growth rate. The tree's most preferred conditions would be rich loamy, consistently moist, and well-draining soil. Extremely adaptable, the only condition the eastern red cedar cannot tolerate is standing water. Save constantly soaked roots; this species can deal with almost any soil. Water Initially, as it is establishing itself, your eastern red cedar will demand a good amount of water until these needs taper off and the tree develops into a tree that can hold its own against some pretty harsh drought conditions. Until it is established, though, right after planting, it is necessary to give an eastern red cedar plenty of supplemental irrigation for the first two growing seasons. Judging the water needs by the soil dampness is the best bet for the species as the tree constantly demands damp soil without allowing standing water to collect. A good way to judge is to press your finger into the soil to a depth of two inches and feel for the soil's moisture. It is time to water your young tree if the soil is dry. Continue doing this throughout the first two growing seasons, checking a few times a week, especially in the summer, more if there are drought conditions. By the third year, you should be able to start tapering off. Temperature and Humidity The range of the eastern red cedar is immense, stretching from eastern coastal Canada south to the Gulf Coast of the United States. There are vast temperature differences in this large swatch of territory, but the eastern red cedar adapts to them all. The commonality is that the temperatures in its growing range never reach extremes. To keep your eastern red cedar healthy and happy, mimic its natural habitat and grow it in moderate temperatures in areas that do not push extreme limits. Keeping it in its happy zones of USDA 2-9 will ensure it thrives. Fertilizer Generally, eastern red cedars do not require any supplemental fertilizer. The species thrives in poor soil as a pioneer species. Adding supplemental fertilizer is unnecessary, especially for wild-type trees. Dwarf varieties or varieties with unique forms, such as abundant fruit-bearing cultivars, may require specific fertilizing. It is best to consult any documentation of the particular cultivar for its exact needs. Types of Eastern Red Cedar Juniperus virginiana has many cultivars with various traits to suit your functional and aesthetic needs. With nearly 40 cultivars available ranging from dwarf to weeping to silver in color and offering excellent disease resistance, nothing should stand in your way from planting this species in your landscape. Juniperus virginiana ‘Burkii’: This male cultivar has a pyramidal shape ranging in height from 10 feet to 15 feet with high resistance to cedar apple rust. Juniperus virginiana ‘Pendula’: This female cultivar has a drooping habit and abundant fruit. Juniperus virginiana ‘Grey Owl’: The dwarf cultivar with an extremely slow growth rate matures around 6 feet wide and 3 feet tall. Juniperus virginiana ‘Emerald Sentinel’: This cultivar is superbly vigorous and hardy, thriving in extreme conditions and the harshest conditions while still looking good. Common Pests & Plant Diseases The eastern red cedar is luckily free from serious disease and pest issues. The only large concern that many will find to be an issue is that the species acts as an alternate host for a fungal disease, cedar apple rust. While this disease does little harm to the eastern red cedar itself, it can cause serious issues to trees in the Malus family, often causing leaf and fruit damage. In early spring, fungal galls will emerge on the juniper tree that must be treated with a copper fungicide to prevent the spread of the disease to any susceptible trees nearby. Ultimately to be safe, all trees in the Malus family should be kept 500 to 1000 feet from any possible host.

One of thirteen junipers native to North America, the Skyrocket Juniper (Juniperus scopulorum) is indigenous to the western United States and Canada. A slow-growing conifer in the cypress family, it is typically narrow and pyramidal in form, growing to 30-40 feet tall. The reddish-brown bark sheds in thin strips and the foliage is silvery-blue to dark green and lies flat against the branches. As additional interest, the cones are waxy blue and berry-like and are enjoyed by birds and small mammals. Commonly called the Rocky Mountain Juniper, the tree prefers full sun, moist, well-drained soils and does well in dry, sandy soil. It is drought, salt spray, erosion, dry soil, and air pollution tolerant. It does not thrive in wet soils, high humidity, or high night temperatures. Skyrocket Juniper Care Once established, a Skyrocket juniper requires very little care. It grows best in full sun in well-draining, dry soils. Since it is slow-growing, pruning is not required other than removing damaged or broken branches. The junipers make an excellent hedge or screen and tolerate most conditions except soggy soils and excessively heavy ice storms. When planting as a hedge, space the trees at least 24 inches apart to allow for growth while maintaining full privacy coverage. If planted in a well-chosen location, Skyrocket juniper has no serious threats from diseases or insect pests. If you desire heavy cone production, plant male and female specimens near each other. Light While some cultivars can withstand partial shade, the trees will thrive when planted in full sun or in a location with 6 to 8 hours of sunlight per day. Soil This tree is adaptable to loam, rocky, sandy, and even clay soils, the area must be well-draining. Soggy soils1 will result in root rot and stunted growth. It can tolerate periods of drought, salt spray, and erosion. The soil pH should be neutral - not too acidic or alkaline. Water Once established, the trees seldom require supplemental watering. They prefer dry roots. Newly planted trees should be watered deeply once a week or so for several months to establish deep roots and then watered sparingly. The trees do not fare well in areas with wet winters and can develop root rot. Temperature and Humidity Skyrocket junipers prefer cooler climates and low humidity. In rainy areas, they may be susceptible to blights which causes the dieback of the stem tips. Because they prefer low-humidity areas, the trees are susceptible to injury or death from fires due to their thin, stringy bark and the volatile oils contained in the branches. Fertilizer It is usually unnecessary to fertilize this tree unless you have a soil deficiency. However, if you do feed the tree, the juniper will benefit from a slow-release fertilizer feeding in early spring and once again during the growing season. Fertilizers that are high in nitrogen (16-4-8 NPK) will promote lush green growth. Do not feed late in the growing season. Types of Skyrocket Juniper There are numerous Juniperus scopulorum cultivars with slightly different foliage and growth patterns. Juniperus scopulorum 'Blue Creeper': Blue foliage, low-growing, mounding shape. Juniperus scopulorum ''Blue Arrow': Narrow, upright growth with blue-green foliage. Juniperus scopulorum 'Wichita Blue': Compact, conical shape with blue to blue-gray foliage, male plant. Juniperus scopulorum 'Table Top': Low-growing, flat-topped juniper with silvery-blue foliage, female plant. Juniperus scopulorum 'Snow Flurries': Narrow small tree, columnar to fastigiate with blue foliage showcasing creamy white spots. Juniperus scopulorum 'Pathfinder': Broader, pyramidical shape with blue-green foliage in flat spray branches. Juniperus scopulorum 'Gray Gleam': Slow-growing, dense, columnar tree with silver-gray foliage. Juniperus scopulorum 'Cologreen': Upright, narrow form with bright green foliage. Juniperus scopulorum 'Blue Heaven': Small, conical tree with light blue foliage. Pruning The skyrocket juniper is slow-growing and does not require pruning unless you wish to keep the trees short. If a shorter tree is desired, select one of the cultivars that do not grow so tall. The only pruning that is required is to remove any broken or storm-damaged limbs. Propagating Skyrocket Juniper Select young, healthy, vigorous, semi-hardwood cuttings in mid to late summer. Remove the lower leaves, then coat the cut end with a rooting hormone. Place the cutting in a mixture of perlite and coarse sand, and keep the cutting moist and warm until roots develop. After 8 to 10 weeks, you can transplant the cutting into a larger pot filled with a loam and sand mix. Allow the juniper to develop a hardy root system throughout the fall and winter. Protect the plant from excessive moisture and harsh winds. Transplant to a permanent location in the spring. How to Grow Skyrocket Juniper From Seed Growing a skyrocket juniper from seed requires time, patience, and multiple steps. If the seeds are collected late in the season and appear dry, soak the seeds for two days in room-temperature water. Prepare a mixture of equal parts horticultural sand and peat-free compost to fill each small 2-inch pot. Make a small hole in the mixture and add a seed, covering it lightly with the mixture. Place the pot in a shady location outdoors for at least six months and water when the mixture feels completely dry to the touch. Check regularly after a few months and when a seedling appears, move to a larger pot containing a similar mixture. Water the seedlings (but don't keep the soil soggy) and leave them in a cool, shady spot until multiple leaves appear. When the roots have filled the pots, transplant the young trees into one-gallon pots, taking care not to disturb the roots too much. When the roots have filled the larger pots, dig a hole in a sunny spot big enough to accommodate the root ball in well-draining soil. Carefully ease the plant out of the pot and place it carefully in the hole. Make sure the stem is at the same depth as it was in the pot, and firm backfill the hole with soil. Water deeply for several months until the roots are firmly established. Overwintering There are no special requirements for overwintering Skyrocket junipers unless a heavy ice storm is predicted. Use a protective cover to prevent branches from snapping under the weight of the ice. Common Pests and Plant Diseases Skyrocket junipers do not have any severe threats from pests or plant diseases. In rainy seasons, they may be susceptible to blights which causes the dieback of the stem tips. Phomopsis twig blight may occur as well as Cedar-apple rust and other rust diseases. In poorly drained soils, root rot can occur. Aphids, bagworms, scale, and spider mites are potential insect pests but seldom kill the tree. Common Problems With Skyrocket Juniper The most common complaint about this easy-to-care-for tree is its slow growth pattern. It can take up to 10 years for the tree to reach its mature height.

Magnolia Ann is a spring blooming shrub featuring large, leathery green leaves and fragrant purple-red blossoms. The flowers, which have just a light scent, are cup-shaped and nearly 4 1/2 inches wide. The Magnolia x ‘Ann’ cultivar is one of the most popular in the "Little Girl" magnolia collection, developed for their small size, compact growing habit, and later bloom time. Magnolia Ann blooms in April and May, meaning you’re less likely to lose any buds to a late-season frost. It may even rebloom in mid-summer. Reaching 10 to 12 feet tall and wide at maturity, Magnolia Ann works well as a specimen plant. It serves as a privacy screen or hedge and can also be grown in pots. Magnolia Ann Care Magnolia Ann is considered a medium maintenance shrub when you first plant it, but once established, it won't need a lot of attention. The cultivar adapts to different soils, including clay, is drought tolerant, and doesn't require much pruning. Light For the best flowering, magnolia Ann needs 6 hours of bright sunlight daily. Although tolerant of heat, this shrub thrives best in moderate temperatures and benefits from afternoon shade when grown in especially sunny and warm climates. Too much shade can result in fewer and less vibrant flowers. Soil Magnolia Ann adapts to many of soil types, even clay, but a slightly acidic soil pH of 5.5 to 6.5 is needed for healthy growth and flowering. If your soil is too alkaline (above a 7.0 pH), increase acidity by adding peat at planting time. Rich, moderately moist, well-draining soil is ideal. Water Plan to water magnolia Ann twice weekly for the first six months after planting. Once established, you only need to water during extreme drought. Water thoroughly at ground level until it no longer drains into the soil. Overly saturated, soggy soil damages shallow roots. Temperature and Humidity Magnolia Ann is hardy in USDA growing zones 4 through 9 but performs best in regions with moderately warm summers and chilly but mild winters. This hybrid withstands freezing temperatures of -30 degrees F., making it a good choice for northern zones. Humidity levels of 30 to 50 percent are adequate. Fertilizer How to feed your magnolia Ann may be partly determined by soil type. Organic nitrogen-based fertilizers like bloodmeal work well for these smaller ornamental shrubs. You can also apply a slow-release liquid fertilizer such as an NPK 20-5-10 or 12-4-8. Feed in April and continue monthly through mid-July. Feed pot-grown magnolia Ann every two weeks during the growing season. Types of Small Magnolias In addition to magnolia Ann, seven other small, late spring blooming hybrids make up the “Little Girl” magnolia collection.1 Here are a few other slow growing smaller varieties you might consider for your garden. Little Gem: Magnolia x 'Little Gem' is considered a dwarf version of the Southern magnolia. It grows to just half the height, reaching 20 ft. tall and 10 ft. wide at maturity. Caerhay’s Surprise: Magnolia 'Caerhay's Surprise' is a slow growing type at just 13 ft. tall when mature. Dark pink flowers open in late March. Magnolia stellata: This 10-foot-tall magnolia features distinct, white, star-shaped flowers from March to April. Gail’s Favorite: A miniature version comparable to M. grandiflora, Magnolia laevifolia 'Gail's Favorite' produces similar white blooms and grows to just 6 1/2 ft. tall. Leonard Messer: Magnolia loebneri 'Leonard Messer' produces delicate pink flowers in spring and is 12 to 24 ft. tall at its mature height. Planting Magnolia Ann In southern zones, plant magnolia Ann in late autumn or early winter. Early spring planting is recommended for northern zones. Whatever location you plant magnolia Ann should be its permanent location, as its shallow roots don't respond well to being moved. A good spot receives morning sun and some afternoon shade, especially in the plant's southernmost range where afternoons temperatures get hot. Provide shelter from potential cold winter winds in northern areas. To plant, dig a hole 1 1/2 times as wide as the rootball and just deep enough so the uppermost root sits level with the soil line. Spread the roots out around the base of the trunk and fill in with soil. Tamp soil down to hold the shrub upright and water gently but thoroughly at soil level. Adding aged compost, bloodmeal, or NPK 10-10-10 fertilizer at planting time supplies nitrogen needed for vigorous initial growth. A 2- to 3-inch mulch layer keeps soil moist and cool. Pruning Magnolia Ann The natural form for this shrub is upright and dense, becoming rounded as it matures and spreads. It can be coaxed into small tree form by removing all but two or three main trunks at the plant's base, along with lower branches. Significant pruning should be done in mid-summer after flowers bloom. When grown as a shrub, magnolia Ann needs little pruning. Dead or damaged branches and leaves can be removed any time. Allow flowers to drop naturally. Propagating Magnolia Ann can be propagated with stem cuttings. This hybrid magnolia does produce seed pods, but propagating from seed will not produce a tree identical to the original (and it can take up to 15 years to bloom). Mid-summer is the best time to propagate a magnolia Ann You'll need a sterile cutting tool, 6-inch plastic pots with drainage, and a loose potting mix. Use your cutting tool to remove a 4- to 6-inch growing tip, making sure to include some of the semi-hardwood growth. Immediately place the cutting in water or a damp paper towel. Prepare 6-inch pots with loose, moist mix of potting soil or a mix of sand, perlite, and compost. Use a stick or your finger to make a narrow, deep hole in the center of the pot. Trim bottom leaves from the cutting and snip larger top leaves in half. Dip the stem's bottom in rooting hormone and insert it into the hole. Cover with plastic and use supports, if necessary, to keep it off the cutting. Place the pot(s) in a location with indirect light and keep soil moist. Check for root growth starting in three weeks by tugging lightly on the cutting. Resistance indicates it's rooting. Be patient — roots can take up to 8 weeks to develop. Remove plastic and continue to grow out in pots until new top growth emerges. Overwintering Magnolia Ann is quite cold hardy and doesn’t require much winter protection. High winds can damage this shrub so choose a planting spot with some shelter. Protect shallow roots with a layer of mulch during winter. Common Pests and Plant Diseases This small hybrid magnolia is fairly resistant to pests, but can be damaged by weevils, snails, scale and thrips. Treat the entire plant with horticultural or neem oil. Potential diseases include leaf spots, anthracnose, canker, dieback and powdery mildew. Most of these problems occur due to overwatering or foliage that stays wet. Always water at soil level and prune out diseased branches and leaves. Severe issues can be treated with copper-based fungicide. How to Get Magnolia Ann to Bloom Magnolia Ann’s flowers are large with deep, rich purple-red color. They appear one to two weeks later than many other spring-blooming magnolias. Failure to bloom or a low numbers of flowers is usually due to improper pruning, insufficient light, or not enough soil acidity. Fertilize in spring with a nitrogen-based fertilizer such as NPK 20-5-10 to support flowering. Magnolia flowers open either at the same time or before foliage appears. Look for deep green leaves to fill out on magnolia Ann by early summer. Leaves turn yellow in autumn before falling from this deciduous shrub. Common Problems With Magnolia Ann Magnolias are fairly easy to care for, though there are a few issues to look out for. Yellow Leaves Leaves on magnolia Ann naturally turn yellow in autumn. It’s a deciduous shrub so expect foliage to eventually turn brown and fall off. But during the growing season, yellowing leaves may be the result of too much or too little sunlight or water. Flowers Fail to Open Flowers that never open is a common problem for many magnolia varieties. It’s usually caused by late frost that damages the flower buds, though it may be due to insufficient light or overwatering. Tip Dieback When the tips of branches turn hard and brown it's usually due to frost damage. Magnolia Ann is frost and freeze hard, but the shrub can be damaged by strong, cold winds. Plant this shrub in a location with some protection from winter winds and keep it mulched.

Most Japanese maples are easy to grow once they become established and are trained to grow properly. One of the best ways to keep a Japanese maple healthy is through pruning. Some Japanese maples can be pricey, and people often have a plant-it-and-forget-it attitude with trees, but this is an essential care task you shouldn't skip. Here's our best guidance on when and how to prune Japanese maples with instructions so easy even a beginner can do it. Why Prune Japanese Maples Japanese maples should be pruned for health and aesthetics (i.e., its shape). Remove any dead, dying or broken branches, then prune for aesthetics with what's left. Prune it to establish its shape or to maintain a shape. Make no mistakes; every form of Japanese maple, whether weeping or upright, must be pruned to keep its visual appeal. If you feel tempted to skip pruning a Japanese maple for health, remember that you can't have a good looking tree if it isn't healthy. When to Prune Japanese Maples Like most trees, Japanese maples should be pruned when the tree is completely dormant. Usually this occurs anytime between the first frost and late winter. However, Japanese maples take extremely well to pruning and can be pruned throughout the year, if needed. Plan to prune the Japanese maple as a part of an annual health inspection you do when it's dormant in the winter. Make sure to assess it again after it leafs out (i.e., the buds open). At that point, examine its form and see if there are any dissimilar leaves. Look at the overall shape of the tree to see if you like it. Unless you pruned too much, your tree should have not suffered any negative effects. Tips for Pruning a Japanese Maple It is hard to believe, but pruning a Japanese maple is easy. You know what we want it to look like and what does not belong on a tree (broken, dying, or dead branches), and that is the most important thing. You always want to start by cleaning your tools with a solution of 90% alcohol or higher or a solution of bleach and water. Cleaning your tools sanitizes them and reduces the risk of spreading pathogens between tools and plants. Follow these guidelines for pruning a Japanese maple: Always prune away any lower branches that look different or have dissimilar leaves from the top of the tree. Remove the BDD (broken, dying, or dead) branches. Stake young trees to ensure they grow upright. Always use the proper tool to prune a Japanese maple: use hand pruners for branches up to 1/4 of an inch in diameter, loppers are used for anything up to 2 inches, and a pruning saw for anything larger than 2 inches. Never prune more than 1/3 of living tree material per year. Pruning cuts should always be made as close as possible to the collar without cutting into the collar itself. Pruning Upright vs. Weeping Japanese Maples Pruning these two types of Japanese maples is entirely different. You will do your normal yearly maintenance on both, but pruning to achieve a certain look will be very different. With weeping Japanese maples, imagine a line across the trunk and cut above it to obtain an umbrella-like form. Remove all dissimilar-looking leaves on lower branches. Repeat this process yearly until the tree reaches maturity, and then prune as needed to maintain the umbrella shape. If you're starting with a young tree, stake it to achieve an upright habit. (Once it's established, remove the stake.) If you have a Japanese maple with an upright form, look for dissimilar leaves and branches along the trunk and remove them. These are branches growing from the grafting stock. After removing these branches, you should decide whether you want your tree to have a single leader or be multi-stemmed. Most Japanese maples look more appealing as a multi-stemmed tree, but it's fine to grow it with a single leader. Establish one, three, or more leaders by removing any extra branches. Do not leave two leaders, as this can cause splitting. Continue to prune yearly, allowing the leaders to develop height and lateral branches.

The Macadamia genus has four different species of macadamia trees, two of which are mostly used for nut production. Native to Australia, this sub-tropical evergreen tree has a very limited range in the continental United States. While known for its delicious fruit, the tree is notoriously stingy when producing nuts, so unless you are prepared to plant multiple trees to cross-pollinate or take steps to ramp up production, the tree might be more suited as an ornamental or shade tree than a crop tree. Macadamia Tree Care No matter your tree's desired purpose, you will want to follow a certain set of guidelines to give your tree the best chance to thrive. Here is a brief list of key points to keep your macadamia tree happy and healthy: Provide your tree with full sun. Plant in regions with moist to wet conditions with at least 50 inches of rain annually. If looking to use it for nut production, choose a grafted plant to shorten the time to maturity. Amend your soil to reach a pH level of 5.5-6.5. Fertilize annually with low nitrogen, low phosphorus, and high potassium fertilizer once mature. Light When planting your macadamia tree, sun exposure is one of the biggest conditions to consider when choosing where to plant your tree. If planted in a spot that receives too little sun, this already slow-growing tree will suffer and not produce a tremendous amount of foliage. Later, when mature, produce fewer flowers and less fruit. To ensure you get the best growth out of your tree, plant it in a location that gets full sun. Soil While the macadamia is somewhat adaptable, a few things will help guarantee success when growing this relatively easy-to-maintain tropical evergreen. Test the acidity of your soil will ensure that you can amend the soil and fix its pH to achieve the macadamia's desired pH of 5.5-6.5. Once you know the soil's pH, look at the soil's moisture content, macadamia prefers wet to moist soil that is well draining. If the soil in the area you plan to plant is too moist, mix in plenty of perlite. Ultimately the ideal soil for your tree should be rich, moist, and well-draining. Water Macadamia trees are native to a region that receives at least 50 inches of rain annually, so the tree expects to get a good amount of water. This averages out to about 92 gallons of water during a hot week, which often occurs in the regions the macadamia grows. Irrigation is especially important during initial planting when the tree establishes itself, usually over the first one or two growing seasons and when it produces fruit. Temperature and Humidity Being a native to Australia, there are very few areas in the United States where the macadamia tree will grow outdoors successfully. The macadamia can also grow well in California, Southern Texas, Florida, and the Gulf Coast. It can thrive as long as the requirements of warm weather with a good amount of moisture are fulfilled. Macadamia trees are in hardy in USDA zones 9 and 11, but not all regions in these zones have high enough precipitation. Fertilizer Annual fertilizing is only recommended once the tree reaches maturity. Most often, this occurs within seven to ten years after planting. Fertilizing with low nitrogen, phosphorous, and high potassium formula is best. A 0-0-50 NPK formulation, such as sulfate of potash, is a good suggestion. Pruning Naturally macadamia trees will have a vase-shaped crown. This is perfect if you are using the tree ornamentally or for shade. If this is the case the only pruning needed will be maintenance pruning to remove dead, dying, and damaged branches annually. If you plan on using the tree for fruit production then you will want to start to prune the tree into a shape that will allow it to get the best amount of sun and airflow for the most abundant fruit production. When pruning, use sharp, clean pruning shears. In order to do this, step away from the tree and imagine a cone around it. Remove branches over the first few years to give your tree somewhat of a cone shape, remembering to never remove more than 1/3 of the tree's material within a single year. Types of Macadamia Tree There are four species of macadamia trees, countless hybrids between these four species, and a vast amount of commercially available cultivars and grafted selections. M. integrifolia: One of the two trees used in commercial production with sweet nuts, self-pollinating, and grows to about 50 feet. M. tetraphylla: One of the two trees used in commercial production with sweet nuts that grows to about 32 feet. M. ternifolia: A tree with a bitter nut on the vulnerable list that grows to a height of about 26 feet at a medium rate. M. jansenii: On the endangered list, it is critically endangered, with only 100 known trees in the wild. Propagating Macadamia Trees Propagating macadamia trees from cuttings is perfectly doable, it will not allow you to see your first crop for at least a decade. This also does not guarantee that the tree will produce abundant fruit or stay healthy enough on its rootstock to reach maturity. Most macadamia trees used for crop production are grafted onto a cultivar selected for heartiness to serve as rootstock. In taking a cutting, you lose the heartiness of the original rootstock. If still inclined to propagate, the best method would be by air layering, though the process is advanced. Common Problems with Macadamia Trees Generally, macadamia trees are easy to care for, with most issues coming not from disease or pests but rather from placement and conditions. If you give your tree the proper conditions, it will usually be happy, but here are some things to look out for: Deer and Rodents When the trees mature, one of the biggest issues will be unwanted wildlife eating your crop. The easiest way to avoid this is to be mindful of ripe fruit and watch for any macadamias that fall to the ground that may attract unwanted wildlife. Fungus Often caused by wounds from weed whackers or improperly cleaned pruning tools. The most common signs will be cankers or dark lesions. Macadamia is most susceptible to Anthracnose and Phytophthora ramorum.